So you change the lens on the camera itself? Or a completely different fpv camera setup? To get close to 1x

The newest version use the same camera (Night Eagle 3) and display (V780) but you need to cut out both the camera sensor and display and glue them in a 3D printed "Image intensifier Tube" putting them closer together. @@PitPwny

@@aralskywalker thanks for the reply. I’ll have to check the discord for details.

Thanks! That makes me happy to hear

Thanks man! I got more stuff coming

I’m glad thanks!

@@extrudedshootshey bro question 🙋🏼‍♂️ are the nvg 10’s worth it ? In your opinion

@@BB-bq1xd I have a full review coming very soon, but honestly the new nvg 30 are much better. I would personally save for the 500$ nvg 30 but if your really tight on cash I would do nvg10 if you are only going to use it for plinking and hiking

@@extrudedshootsthank you very much for the reply, you wouldn’t happen to have a link for where a guy could pick one up ? Cheers buddy all the best.

@@BB-bq1xd goodnitegearshop.com/products/nvg30nvg20-digital-night-vision-monocular-%F0%9F%8C%95 I got u!

thanks man! im glad you liked it. a lot more coming too.

no problem! im glad you commented and thanks! I bought my tube of some guy on discord who bought it from someone else. I think they said that person got it from a D300 mono. im glad you like yours too! just curious, how much did you get it for and what are you running it in? and if you could tell me who you got it from on ebay i would love that!

Vid to release next week if everything goes to plan! Thank you

Yeah the PVS69 system is way more modular

Some people have tried with mix results but I haven’t. But I agree

@@extrudedshoots I figure if AGM can put out a thermal monocular for $500 with a true 1x and decent specs, we should be able to put one together slightly cheaper, and there has to be a relatively easy way to overlay two inputs onto one display.

@@BuckF0eJiden maybe. Decent thermal cores right now run for even 1k on the budget side so I’m not to hopeful. It would be pretty neat to see something around 500$ tho I agree

@extrudedshoots why not salvage the core out of one of the AGM Taipans? Already comes with the germanium lense. They have a very decent core from what I've seen out of my 10-256.

@@extrudedshoots like, if you could use the guts of one of the Taipans to overlay a thermal display onto your digital NV setup. Would give you a digital NV thermal hybrid bino setup for like $1500-ish. If you're anywhere near Oklahoma City, I'd be more than happy to let you take a look at my Taipan and see what you think?

thanks! the 3D printed analog probably won't come for a while but a video discussing cheaper analog may come out soon!

@@extrudedshootsThat’s even better hope to see it soon!! Going to turn some of my friends in to your channel keep up the good work!!

nice dude could i get a link?

Im not sure! I got off really cool stuff coming soon!!!

I would love to get my hands on a opsin. Seem like very interesting nods

Agreed and thanks!

What’s your top pic for a anolog pvs 14 on a relative budget?? Have you seen the pvs 14s thd guys that make the Jerry thermal units are putting out?? Small rugidized nice… relatively inexpensive compared to most

@@johndaviddoesmith4504 the jerry14 is not a bad pick at all. I think my go to rn would be a contract pvs14 used from Reddit. Gen 3 1800-2000 FOM for around 1700-1900$

For it to be usable in most conditions the NVG10 needs IR light. There are some conditions were u can go without

@@extrudedshoots Bummer. Was really hoping that wouldn't be the case. Thanks.

That’s good to hear. I still plan on upgrading to a Carson PVS14 obj lens tho. May try to switch some out just because they are so cheap.

I will definitely make one at some point. Other stuff is being made aswell right now

Thanks! My go to for deals are discord, eBay, and Reddit . I have heard good things about tacswap aswell

Do you have any discords I could join to watch deals? ​@extrudedshoots

Thanks! There is quite a bit of lens flair and a pretty bad fish eye. Getting a Carson PVS14 lenses should fix that

Will Carson lens thread onto it with out printing a new body? @@extrudedshoots

@@shadezactual2657 no you have to print a different body. It takes like 7 hours ish and i already got one.

ik i just have that one available to me rn

I looked into those lenses they seem meet. I have gen2 aswell I just prefer black and white

@extrudedshoots I agree the black and white is easier on the eyes and in my opinion a smig clearer/crisp picture. But the lens upgrade is what made it so much better and way better FOV. I also run a mini 940 flood IR on my helmets which I use when it's extremely overcast. Like I was saying the nvg10 are a great digital NV plus doesn't break the bank.

Where'd you get the wide lens?

@mikeb0261 I got it for much of the same reasons. I play airsoft and go to Nighttime events maybe a total of three times a year and just can't afford to drop a grand or more on something that I'll use so infrequently. In the case of using it with airsoft, the NVG10 works great so long as there is even a sliver of moonlight. It can switch between white and green and I use both frequently. I'm told that it gives me away at distance since the ir illuminator is always technically on even when the setting is set to off, but since airsoft is fought almost exclusively in close quarters anyway, that argument doesn't hold a lot of water. I got mine for around $450, and for that price and how clear the picture is, I'm very happy with it.

@@SpencerBurkett The IR has 5 settings. Off, On, 1, 2 , 3. Setting 1, 2, 3 the IR is on, and the On setting is actually when the IR is Off. You can test with your phone camera, as it will pick up the IR as a pinkish light when the IR is on.

I have had the same experience. The only way I have found that I can keep it turned off was having it on the “IR on” standby mode.

on the nvg10, ir 1 means ir off. ir 0 is actually ir 1.

on the nights with heavy overcast or forest, not really. on some of the clear sky nights you could make out what's on the ground.

Might have to look into that thanks!

@@extrudedshoots nightfox might actually send one to you to review. give it a try.

eBay and discord. Getting good deals on mx10160 and 11769 is pretty hard right now but 10130 and other tubes should be pretty easy

Not yet but it looks like the new ones are easier to build

Thank you! If I get enough requests, I would be happy to make a tutorial! This is not my file, I just bought and downloaded it. It is pretty nice for the tube type. You can mount it using the 1/4x20 threads, so you can use either Wilcox or rhino mounts. The PVS69 alpha is another good 3D printed analog mono, but I have not built one yet so I don’t know how good they are in practice. Thanks for the comment!

Agreed! That comes with the price tho

thanks hehe. ill make a full vid about it later and leave a whle bunch of links to you!

1x. It looks zoomed in because the field of view is so narrow

@@extrudedshoots When not zoomed in, it's field of view is 25 degrees.

@@starsandnightvision compared to a analog device or the PvS69, that is quite narrow

@@extrudedshoots Yes, i know. Have a look at the NVG30, it has 40 degrees.

@@starsandnightvision I have a connection and may be reviewing one soon

iff you can, i would go mono PVS69, if you cannot build one, the NVG10 is def more convenient. NVG10 out preforms in image quality, PVS69 is better in framerate.

thats fair. it's a neche device

im working on a dedicated video now. Thank you for watching!

@@extrudedshoots Cant wait to see it! I picked up one and been playing with it.

Agreed. Analog performance is something that you just have it experience in person but this is the best I couuld do lol.

@@extrudedshoots Oh I don't mean to come off as having anything negative to say about the video, the video is perfect and does demonstrate the pitfalls of digital vs analog, but I just wanted to point out to all the other viewers that night vision looks way clearer/better in real life, as camera footage sometimes makes it look not as detailed.

@@Kajacot thanks I didn’t think you where negative at all lol. Just right. I might get a camera adapter for the tubes to get it as close as I can

Didn't realize you made the video on the perst that made me buy mine, definitely subscribing. Awesome content my guy!

I could try it with a Primary arms lpvo if you wanted to.

How so? Just curious. If you would like to provide some footage I would be happy to share.

@@extrudedshootsthe camera recording of the screen does not at all accurately reproduce the display and image quality. less important is green mode boosts the visual contrast. A better representation is sharing recording from the wireless phone camera app for the device

@@Vskayp974 that’s fair but that goes far all of the devices here. I prefer white and black aswell.

Hey dude! There are a lot of different versions of the PVS69 and I’m out of country right now. What version of the PVS69 mono are you making? I can ask around and try and get some info for you!

@@extrudedshoots digital. Mx69. Also I'll be playing with the nvg30 here soon. Have you messed with it yet?

If it has a 1/4 20 threads on the side maybe. Idk sorry try google

I don’t use rechargeable bc they tend to have funky voltages sorry

@@extrudedshoots ah, I assumed those were.

Used if u get lucky. Check Reddit and eBay and u may get a good deal.

You have to build them and print them yourself

That model is not being sold anymore but the newer models are available at the link in the description

Imo the PVS69 but you can get a better image with the nvg10

I have duals of both and the pvs 69 is far superior for the one main reason… no lag

If the nvg 10 could loose that lil lag it would be tits

@@johndaviddoesmith4504 agreed

@@johndaviddoesmith4504 Have a look at its succesor NVG30 then, they claim it's practically lag free.

The IIT for the file is so obscure that I doubt u could find one but shoot me an email if your interested

Whats the tube format?

@@MinuteBracelet mx868 or inverted fat anvis

Some comparison may come soon. I have a NvG30 and I am blown away by its performance.

@@extrudedshoots dude that’s awesome to hear! Also thanks for the quick reply! Your content is top notch! If you post more you’d blow up!

@@JPFB-yp6pw no problem! Thanks for the complements lol! I’m keeping up the work so some really cool stuff is coming

Vons website or the discord

Personally I have used eBay and discord discord, but I have heard that there are some good deals on tacswap. If you want good deals on complete units, it’s hard to beat gafs on reddit

@@extrudedshoots any way you could link the discord?

@@GuillotineActual there is not one in mind but I would look into the r/nightvision discord. YT has been picky about links in comments recently so ima play it safe. Email me if u can’t find any info

its notable but not too bad

Any other places you'd recommend?

Cults3D is safe I have used it multiple times. You might be able to get it directly from the designer via discord

i disagree. the price difference between these and L3 tubes is so insane they are not even remotely in the same region. there is no question that a good l3 tube will beat everything here, but it costs over 10x as much as these digital units. and still almost 3x as the gen 2+.

just like he said no! lol, 2k for a tube alone. and im not gonna put a 2k tube in a $100 housing... yes. it beats all of them. i can build a full ar and 69s and still work... while you build just NVG. were not navy seals remember that

@@TruthPrevails24 yes, build a full AR and 69's. And then when you're out to goon, you get killed because your NVGs constantly emit a beacon of "I AM HERE"

@@extrudedshoots if the argument is cost then I recommend a Nightcore MH12 pro. Sub $100. It's still required to have an active signal to see, but IR night vision is the same outside of ideal circumstances.

It depends on your use. If you are simply hunting coyotes or pest control, then the ir should be fine. If you are planning for home defense, then nvg is your only choice right now.

Not a bad idea. If you build the current version too, your housings I compatible with analog tubes and glass aswell for future upgrades

@@extrudedshoots yes! so if you ever find a good deal just get the tube and them if you have mx69 you don't need a power supply if im not wrong. still learning lol

@@TruthPrevails24 tubes have the power supply built in so once you get a tube, just switch it out with the Mx69. The mx69 becomes useless once you have a analog tube unless you have another housing

@@extrudedshoots oh okay! so the Mx69 is just to allow you run a digital setup in a analog housing yeah!? so then when your ready to switch you can?

@@TruthPrevails24 yeah that’s Excactly it! Still super useful imo

Hello! I already have a NVG30 and currently making a review on it! I like it a lot and much more than the NVG10. Thank you though!

For me it's an anime girl thumbnail, even if the subject matter has nothing to do with anime. Makes the smooth monkey brain activate.

this was heavy overcast and raining. i could not even see the moon

It’s basically a flashlight that shines light in the IR spectrum. That spectrum is not visible under the human eye it’s only visible using nightvision.

@@extrudedshoots so if I use IR turn everyone with ir can see eachothers spot?

yes@@t.m9341

The easy way to understand is that vision is covered in the Electromagnetic spectrum which is categorized by the wavelength of radiation. Visible light is the section of the EM spectrum which our eye is capable of sensing, but IR is in the section (band) next to that which we can't see, but electronic cameras that are IR sensitive can see. Night vision collects this radiation (photons) and displays the image in the visible light spectrum so we can see the IR band. When an IR emitter says 980nm (nanometers), that's the wavelength of the photon that is being emitted which can't be seen by our eye since it is outside the visible light spectrum, but within the night vision's sensor wavelength range. A regular camera doesn't see IR light because they put an IR filter in front of the lens. If you remove this filter you can then see IR light. Difference between an actual night vision tube vs a IR sensitive camera is night vision has an IIT (image intensifier tube) which takes the photons it receives and then amplifies it by electronically adding to it to make it brighter. An IIT tube has much higher resolution than a digital camera which is why amplifying the photons results in a brighter image and not just a whited out image as would happen when there aren't enough "pixels" to retain contrast when brightness/gain is increased.

Yeah i think people have to chose for themselves if the price is worth it. One thing that I don’t think many people take into consideration is that analog holds its value way better than digital overtime, so resell is much easier and better

Yeah analog I think build quality is probably better… honestly I’ve had a chance to run in the same ten mins my dual pvs69 and then two separate gen2+ pvs 14s and honestly in a lot of ways preferred my pvs 69 that said I’m certain the pvs14s I was looking thru would take a bigger beating

I would love too! I have seen that system somewhere else and honestly it had me very curious. Hit me up on my business email in my about and we can work something out.

@@extrudedshoots awesome, I hit you up 👍 let’s get it

Got the email! I’ll respond fully Monday. Only good things

She gave me permission but idk about your mom

Just the refresh rate acting funky. The picture is of a solar panel

​@@extrudedshootsI posted other questions but KZfaq deleted them

​@@extrudedshootsI'm confused with the video timings of model comparison between ir and no ir. It jumped around and I couldn't get a back to back .

@@t.m9341 This is a comparison between units, not if ir was on or not

Eh kinda ig