Good idea

Bet that feeds the soul just fine ... Bass head over here

@derrickchoate8298 a battery is just a temporary storage of power. If all your do is music and it's not just a fast repetitive bass beating, you can get away without upgrading the alternator But let's say you get a 5000w rms amp that at 13.6v (minimum safe full power voltage) is 367 Amps of current so if you want a battery to work well you generally want to take the total amplifier power draw in amps for all apms - and subtract the alternator reserve. In most cases to find reserves you need a dc amp clamp you going to read what the alternator is rated for and turn on everything in the car and measure what the car uses in a lot of stock situations the reserves are less than 20Amps So let's say you have a 800w rms door plus 5k mono sub that's 400A of draw subtract the 20A alternator reserves = 380A and divide this by 2 = 190Ah this is generally the minimum battery size to support your system With the engine running at around 80% volume On music or 18-20mins of continuous test tones at max. Most older cars draw around 40-80amps on avg depending on things like electric power, steering, tow package etc most small cars like civics etc have 90A alternators some have 120-140A if the have electric power steering bigger cars like full size suv tend to be in the 120-160A alternators if the have a tow package. But all the numbers above are generally to find a healthy minimum for the system. If you want to bang with the engine off 2x the Ah of the battery. Also, you can see on that setup that going from 20A of avaliable alternator to 200A cuts the battery requirements by 80%. A lot of demo shows are not allowed to run the engine, so if that's the goal, don't factor in alternator output at all and get an on board charger taramps has a few good ones that are reasonably priced. I have 5A active BMS on all my lifep04 batteries. You can't run any type of lithium in a car with a lead acid or agm not even under the hood, the resting voltage on them with blow up the agm so going lithium means replacing everything with lithium.

I’m hesitant to say a single thing you said was true. SMH the level of ignorance in car audio is staggering

the top cover is not conductive, No Short possible

No sorry

Very loud at 9600W continuous and 14,400W burst.

@@TheArchimedesEffect What?

I believe so, if you can charge via 12v car charging, you can make a cable that plugs between this battery and your EcoFlow. I don’t know the particulars of that version of EcoFlow but pretty sure you can do it

the only way to get better rates is by increasing the volume of monthly packages. I keep lowering prices but my sales are not increasing unfortunately.

My 1/0 cable fits in these blocks so….. probably never

@@jehugarcia oh ok I thought they were 2ga, my bad. I know 2 2ga = 1 1/0 but these audio guys......... Lol. Just trying to help you out 😁

the blocks im using now can fit 2|0 welding wire on one side and 2awg on the other

@@jehugarciaAre these copper?

@@peckerpeter2078 Can you clarify what you mean by "these"?

Yes, many are already doing it

Agree!

thats because you are an idiot, easily scared.

Probably, the audio community is one of the most misguided I’ve seen yet.

@@jehugarciaI agree there so many so called audio experts that don’t know jack about lithium batteries. And blow stuff up it ain’t even funny till they claim to know everything and that’s not the case 😂Happy New Year Jahu👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾

😂

Anyone who talks sh*t about @Jehu Garcia saying he doesn't know what he's doing or etc... is obviously completely uneducated when it comes to lithium batteries. I've been electrician for almost 30 years and have also been in the DIY lithium battery scene for about 8 years and have never once seen Jehu bullsh*t anyone or about anything!

He’s constantly bullshitting by omitting little details here and there bc he thinks it’s gonna make his product look back. Happens every time I tune in to him