A luggage scanner must be the most BORING stuff around. Well done giving it a worthy life.

Thanks, good luck with your project!

Hey did you finish building?

Thank you! Good to see the content is useful. Best of luck with the project!

Hi, it is great to see that the information was useful for you! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment, much appreciated! Robin

Thanks, sounds like an interesting solution. Good luck with your project!

Thank you so much for sharing your build! You have inspired me in so many areas of my build. Even better you introduced me to @corvetteguy50 who has taught me so much. My box design and many of the parts are similar, although my design is based around a Masso controller. I truly appreciate you sharing this build!

Thanks, much appreciated! The masso seems like a very nice system.

Why should it only be connected to ground at one side and not both sides?

I read from several sources that one should connect a shield only on one end to prevent ground loops, from grounds with different potential. Also there are sources that indicate that for specific data transfer applications it is better to ground at both ends. Most information for CNCs seems to indicate on one side, so I also took that approach. As you may know there is a lot of contradiction on this subject though, but I just went with the sources that I thought related most to my application.

Why is your coolingwater pink? Some additive? Thank you for very informative videos.

Hi Martin, thank you for your feedback on this. My way of doing it was indeed not correct. I had a comment on this earlier and placed a note in the website article together with other feedback and new insights after releasing the video. Regardless, thank you for your comment, much appreciated. This confirms the right approach.

Thanks! Indeed quite a bit of work but it is great to see when it actually works in the end. I will do some more tedious video editing and hopefully upload the end result soon.

Hey ,thanks for the upload. Please help me how do you setup the g55 ,g56 ect (pssst please explain so a caveman like me can understand.🙂)

Hi, of course. Assuming you mean how to set it up on the controller (not in relation to your part) it is fairly straightforward with the DDCS: in the main menu press "tab" until G54 is highlighted. Then with "A+" and "A-" you can select any offset between G54 and G59 (or even machine coordinates if you don't use home switches). Then just press "shift" followed by one of the keys indicated in lower right of the screen to zero all or just one of the axis in you current work offset. You can manually zero machine coordinates in the same way. Note that if you do end up setting machine coordinates to zero with this method, all of your Gxx offsets will shift accordingly, so first set machine coordinates and only then set Gxx. Hope this answers your question.

Thanks for the tip!

Thank you!

Thank you! I am not sure if I will be doing another video on the CNC, but if so, I will try to include more on operation and programming.

Thanks, received several comments on this. I left a pinned comment regarding this topic, so viewers are aware it needs to be connected to ground at one end if they want shielding to work on their cables.

That sounds like a good option. I went for tapping to make the stepper drivers flush with the back plate for heat distribution, but indeed doing this in thin sheet is not the best option. If I do end up taking it apart at some point I might give the rivet nuts a try. Thanks for the advice.

You can take any stepper driver.

I got 2 different drivers. None of them want to work with the cnc :(

@@oscarreyes4511 Different or differnt names?

2 different brands of drivers and none of them worked

That's odd. The step and direction signals from the DDCS are 5V. Can you check if the step and direction input on your drivers respond to 5v? Just a guess but if they need 24v input signal they might not do anything with 5v signals. Is there a green LED to indicate the drive is working? Also double check the connection on your stepper motor.

Hi, I think you are absolutely right, the shield should be connected to ground to make it effective. This would mean I have poor wiring skills on top of poor soldering skills :) I will leave a pinned comment with this update. This does mean I would have to get a 5-pin connectors to get the shield through the non-conductive housing and connect it to ground. Thanks for you comment, much appreciated!

@@uptimefab7412 usually the ground is passed through the connector metal housing itself, at least that's what I saw in e.g. Ethernet CAT 7

Hi Stephen, thanks for the tip! That sounds very plausible. They not only seem a bit flimsy, also they get a bit warm during operation, there might be too small connector pins or poor connection. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Do you have any links for them

Thanks, it was quite a learning experience. The feedback from you and others very helpful to get a good understanding of best ptactices. I admit to sometimes taking not the best but the easiest approach to make sure I can make something with the tools I have available. An example is the plastic enclosure, which is great for a "sandbox" CNC project. Cutting another hole is very easy, but indeed not good for EMI. I will keep your feedback in mind for a next controller cabinet, enough room to improve. Thanks again! Robin

Hi, thanks for your kind comment. The spindle is 1500W and the stepper motors are 3Amp, 2Nm.

:)

Thanks for the comment. Absolutely correct. I already left a pinned comment when I received feedback on this before. Still very much appreciated though! Good luck with your project!

Hi, my estimate came out a bit lower, but I just didn't keep track of all the various parts I bought over several months. Thanks for looking up the prices. I bought items like the controller and 4th axis from ali express, which should be a bit cheaper. I think I paid less than 1000 euro in total or at least I hope so :) Update - Just found some more invoices. Mine add up to around 1000 euro (which could be more in USD), but I might have missed the odd bits and pieces that add up quickly. Not a cheap hobby. Leave out the 4th axis and you can save 200.

Compared to you I am a techno-peasant. I mean, i could not begin to build anything like your cnc. Even with your great instructions. That said, can you recommend a cnc that i could purchase for $1,500 or less? I need to cut aluminum up to half inch. Im considering the shapeoko. Thoughts?

Thanks! I have not looked at cnc routers for a while since I am not in the market for a new one. The shapeoko does seem to be a popular system but I don't have any experience with it.

Thanks!

Yes, it is quite a basic controller, but has the functionality I need. I am pretty happy with it.

I have no personal experience with cutting thick panels, I typically make lighter cuts and use small diameter end mills. But from what I understand you would need >2.2kW or even >5kW for serious cutting of thick panels. I would recommend to ask in one of the CNC forums, where people might have experience with such work.

Hi, I am using the Mach 3 post processor in Fusion 360.

Thank you for your advice, much appreciated!

@@uptimefab7412 no problem. Glad someone could learn something from me!

Hi Ben, thanks, nice to see the videos have been useful for you. There is no specific reason I chose mechanical switches. The DDCS can also handle inductive switches, so if that has your preference you can use those as well. I did not spend a lot of time to figure out which type would be best for my application and just bought the mechanical type. I think both work fine for a home CNC router. The mechanical ones might be more sensitive to dirt, while the inductive ones can be sensitive to EMI. I would say, go with your personal preference. Same goes for other choises I made. Some at are just based on what components I could find or had on hand, other solutions or brands could also work. Please make sure to read comments of other viewers as well if you haven't done so already to get a balanced perspective. Good luck on your project!

Thanks for your quick respons, I think I will go for the inductive sensors. My machine wil be used for milling natural stone, Have to use water to prevent dust clouds and clear the dirt. So the mechanical part of the machine wil quite a challenge.

Hi sorry for the late reply. It unfortunately does not support m98 and m99. It is not in the manual, but I also tried on the controller itself, doesn't work. I noticed that the Expert model does have this function in the manual, maybe other models as well, did not check.

Hi, this is indeed a power supply, not a circuit breaker. I understand the confusion, it indeed looks a bit like a breaker. It is the Mean Well DR-15-24.

@@uptimefab7412 Right I get two power supplies one for screen ddcsv3 and one for the steppers... what does the Mean Well 24V DIN Rail Power Supply power? thanks I'm really grateful. Cant wait for the next Video. I thought you just needed two power supplies

I initially intended to have both the large power supply and the one for the DDCS behind the contactor and since I wanted to disable the steppers (E-stop) without shutting down the DDCS this would require 3 power supplies, including the one for the contactor. I later decided to have the DDCS go around the contactor altogether. So, in this case it would be possible to combine the 2 smaller power supplies. However, in my research before starting this project I read people were using a separate power supply for a contactor to avoid voltage spikes affecting other 24VDC components in the same circuit when the contactor switches on or off, so therefore I decided to keep it on a separate small power supply. I am not 100% sure if this is really needed, but I am playing it safe to avoid any issues with the DDCS controller. The DIN rail power supply only cost me around 15 euro. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your feedback! --- Update: I have ordered a surge protector for the contactor (siemens 3RT2916‑1DG00), which should reduce spikes down to less than 1V. This should eliminate the issue. Note that I do not have a scope and cannot test this. This is according to the Siemens manual.

@@uptimefab7412 yes it does thanks again

Wondered that too, sure looks like a good antenna from what I could see.

Hi thanks for commenting. Please see the pinned comment on shielding. I have just fixed this on my machine, was not as much work as I expected, so not worth skipping. If I have some time to edit a new video in the upcoming weeks I will include these corrections.

Hi, I am not sure what specific motor type is in the typical router spindle.

Hi, is there a limit at your VFD how low you can set your frequency ? The upper limit is 400Hz I know but I would like to know If you can slow down your motor down to near 0.

Per the VFD manual the lower frequency can be set as low as 0.0Hz, but I am not sure to how low the spindle would actually respond properly and what practical use it would have to go very low in RPM for milling, but maybe you have a different application in mind. If you search for now forever manual e-100, this has all the possible settings including upper and lower limits. Hope this helps.

Hi, smoke from your contactor is not good. This probably means something is not wired correctly. Are you sure you connected the contacts for the coil terminal to 24VDC? Please triple check all of your connections or have an electrician verify it. If you indeed have a 24V contactor you should be able to connect it directly to a push button in line with a 24V power supply ( for the specific Siemens model I used). No resistor is needed. I do not have any resistor in between. My LED is in parallel with the contactor, so the is no voltage drop over the coil due to the LED. Please also check all of your other connections: the auxiliary contacts as well as the mains connections you are trying to switch. Note that mains voltage can pose a serious danger. If in any doubt please contact a professional to connect and verify your installation.

Hi Jim, thanks, I noticed this as well later on in the build. In the new version of the wiring diagram I have a separate power supply for the unit and the IO, same as you. Also found this later on in the manual and changed it. The wiring diagram was updated a couple of weeks ago to reflect this.

Hi, there is unfortunately no slave output. I believe some other DDCS models do have this option.

Hi, the PDF of the wiring diagram it is in the website article linked in the description.

If you are in Europe, try Conrad.com or Reichelt.com. I am from the Netherlands where several suppliers sell it like automation24, techniekwebshop among others. If you are from the US or other part of the world I am not sure where to get this type of cable. Try searching for "Lapp 0034704".

From a local online retailer, search for Famatel 39145.

Hi, sure, I am using a contactor that has a DC connection for opening and closing the switched contacts. The contacts are switching AC current. The contacts for engaging the contactor and the ones that are being switched by the contactor are completely separate. There are also contactors that operate on AC, but I did not want to have a 230V AC push button on the front panel to activate the contactor. I prefer to have that low voltage DC. That is the main reason for using a DC contactor. Same argument for an Estop in parallel with the push button. Also if you want to activate or deactivate a contactor from a controller or any other electric circuit, DC is easier.

That makes sense, thanks for the reply 👍

Yes, the connections might be in a different place but all connections should be roughly the same.

@@uptimefab7412 thank you!

Hi, if you have a separate fuse holder you should also be able to place this in the mains line before the mains switch. I am not sure if this is necessary or required, but I added a fuse that is significantly lower amperage than the fuse in my house, so it should trigger faster and therefore offer a bit more protection in case of an overload or short.

@@uptimefab7412 Gracias amigo

More fun to do it yourself as well, was a great learning experience for me.

Hi, not sure, never tried cutting the power during a program.

Hi, in case the e-stop of the pendant is used the steppers are stopped but still under power, holding their position. In case the external E-stop is used the power to the VFD and stepper drivers is cut. This indeed means that the steppers are no longer under power. Since my machine is very light the Z-axis just stays in place even when all power is turned off. So it does not require a brake on the Z-axis.

Hi you cannot connect servo motors that require a feedback loop to the controller. I think you could connect servo drives that have an internal feedback loop, but I have not tried this. I was planning to try this with a cheap servo motor set, but this is not on the short term planning.

Hi, the contactor is not related specifically to the VFD, but to all components in the controller in general. The VFD will run fine without a contactor, but contactors are typically used as a safety feature.

​@@uptimefab7412 Excellet!Tranks! i have another question, Where you connect the spindle motor? To the VFD exit terminals U;V,W? or, in terminals AD-, AD+, AP-, AP+?

@@nicolasasselborn5722 VFD exit U,V,W

Nothing special, I was lucky enough that it worked on the first try. I used the blue wire for the E-stop. Did you see the wiring table in the PDF on my website? The right column called "soldered" is how I actually soldered the wires to the DDCS connector. Also had some confusion on numbering, buy this setup works for me. I don't have the LED on the pendant working, (did not even try to wire this since I don't need it) but the rest is working. If pin 15 is carrying 24V it is probably closed to COM- by the e-stop. You could check this by pressing and releasing the e-stop and measuring on the wires to which pin The resistance changes from 0 to infinite. Hope this helps.

Just measured it on my pendant connector when disonnected from the controller. The E-stop is indeed opening and closing the connection between pin 15 (E-stop) and pin 8 (COM-)

Hi, thank you for your kind compliments. Good question, I am not sure what the difference is. On the stepperonline site under "digital stepper driver" a table lists the differences between different suffixes, but without any specifications. Also the model without suffix is not mentioned, so I am not sure how that relates to the T-model. Just looked at the spec sheet for their DM556T model and it seems to be suitable for use in a CNC router. If it is actually better than a DM556, I don't know. If you can get a T-model for a good price, you can give that a try. Best of luck with your build!

@@uptimefab7412 Thanks a lot for your reply. I will try again to find info on Internet but for the moment no lucky !

Hi. Do you think is a bad idea to feed the DM556/DM556T with a 48 volts power supply (Max voltage is 48V) ? Or is it better 36 volts ?

With 48V the steppers will perform better, but will also generate more heat than with 36v or 24V. From what I have read most small CNC routers will use 36V or lower. Larger machines might benefit from 48V. If you have something like a 6040CNC with NEMA23 motors, I would go for 36V.

@@uptimefab7412 i Have a work Bee with nema 23 upgraded To A queenbee ultra so i think 36 volt is better. Thanks a Lot for your opinion And help

Instelling bedoel ik

Bedankt! Ik heb helaas geen video met alle instellingen. Er staan wel settings die ik heb gewijzigd in de pdf in de link onder de video, maar inderdaad niet uitgelegd in detail. Volgens mij heb ik destijds wel een video van een andere gebruiker gezien met settings op youtube.

Sure, it is in the website article linked in the description. Find the pdf somewhere in the middle of the article.

Hoi Ben, bedankt voor je reactie. Klopt, precies zoals je aangeeft heb ik 1 draad gebruikt om alle switches te verbinden met COM-. Ze hebben wel allemaal een aparte draad naar een eigen home pin (7, 24 en 27). Hierdoor kan ik alle 3 schakelaars verbinden met een 4 polige kabel. Je moet dan wel bij elke schakelaar de nul draad "aftappen", maar dit is prima te doen. Gr, Robin.

A USB stick is better but would have really liked this controller to have a LAN port. The newer ones do have it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

@@uptimefab7412 thank You

Sure, it is included in the web site article linked in the description. Somewhere in the middel of that article you will find a pdf with all the details.

Hi, I prefer not having a laptop connected to the machine when it is running. This typically means using an old laptop (dusty environment). It then also depends on a USB connection. Also I just like having a dedicated controller. Other people might prefer Mach3. There are pros and cons to both, for hobby use I think it is based on personal preference.

Hi, for signal wires I use at least 22AWG(0.34mm^2) and for steppers and power to stepper drivers I use 18AWG(0.75mm^2). In all cases (for this specific configuration and components) this should be on the safe side.

I figured out the problem. It's necessary to push the side button when operating. Thank you for detailed videos.

Thanks for sharing your issue and solution. Luckily you found the cause quickly. The side button is quite useful and becomes second nature to press after using it a couple of times. Cheers, Robin

Hi, unfortunately DDCS controllers are only available for mills. Controllers with specific lathe functions are a bit less common, but you could go for a SZGH controller, MASSO or PC based solution like EdingCNC, Linux CNC or Mach3/4. There are probably more options, but these are the ones I considered.

@@uptimefab7412 thank-you for your reply... Will try n have a look at the controllers you mentioned.. Cheers

It is a modern slide ruler that steers axes of the machine according to coordinates in the CNC program.

Hi, the VFD has a metal housing (under the plastic cover) that is already grounded by bolting it to the metal back plate of the controller box. From what I understand it is better not to ground parts in 2 places to avoid ground loops. I am not sure how much of an issue that is in CNC applications, but at least my VFD is now already grounded through the housing, which should be sufficient.

@@uptimefab7412 have you checked with multimeter a connection of housing with grounding pin? i don't know your model, but in my vfd aluminum radiator on the back isn't connected with grounding of vfd circuit board, so i have to ground it by the grounding pin.

I just checked with the multimeter and luckily with my model the ground pin is connected to the metal housing of the VFD. Thanks for the tip anyway! It is indeed best not to assume the housing is connected to ground just because it is made out of metal.

In essence it should work also with a larger machine. Just make sure it has all of the features you need ot otherwise look at one of the higher end DDCS models. Note that the DDCS V3.1 does not have position feedback to the controller and there is also no input for a spindle encoder. So no rigid tapping. So it all depends on your requirements.

@@uptimefab7412 my machine is fantastic and precise but works on G and M codes. hard to program. also if something goes wrong in one of the components, its hard to fix

Replacement parts can be expensive or hard to find indeed. I like the Emco machines as well. By chance I am also changing electronics and controller on an Emco machine, but in my case a very small PC turn 50 lathe. (SZGH controller this time)

@@uptimefab7412 cool! i wish you can do another video showing your upgrade on this machine. im sure many will find interest in this video as those Emco machines are fantastic

I am planning some build videos on this project as well in near future with the current state of the lathe. Fun little machine, this CNC lathe.

Hi, as far as I know the DDCS does not have the ability to read back from "in position output" port of a stepper driver, so the closed loop is then only between the motor and the stepper driver, not between motor and DDCS. You should however be able to connect the alarm output of the stepper driver for example to the E-stop in port of the DDCS. Then at least the DDCS will go into E-stop mode when the motor can no longer follow the given commands. I also bought a closed loop stepper motor and driver for the 4th axis but have not tried it yet, however this is probably how I will hook it up. Personally I think just using the alarm and not the in-position feedback is fine for a CNC router but this might be different for other applications.

@@uptimefab7412 i m building cnc Engraving for coins die. And i want itto be precise. Closed loop was in my budget... I m very confused for controller. Whether to go for mach 3 4axis or this ddcs😓

I think both solutions can be precise and reliable. My setup with mach 3 had some issues which I think we're mostly related to the USB interface card, not to mach 3. But mostly I just don't like having a laptop to run the machine. Personal preference. Downside for this controller is you have to use USB stick to transfer programs and it has less features and flexibility than mach3, but it has everything I need. Note that there are now also a expert and plus version of the DDCS, both have ethernet. Indeed difficult decision, I hope you can make a choice by weighing pros and cons for your setup.

@@uptimefab7412 thank you sir... One more question... I m using stepper closed loop with dynamic brake motor for z axis. So can it be connected to ddcs and would the brake will work?

I am not sure, sorry. I have never needed this type of functionality. It might be available in one of their models, maybe their forum members can help with this.

I bought the Liycy cables in a local parts store, but they can be obtained from many online stores. For example Reichelt ( for people living in Europe).

@@uptimefab7412 thanks

No problem, the part number is: Lapp 0034704. (PVC, shielded, 4x0.75mm^2) This is very flexible, which is great for both in your cabinet as well as for use in drag chains. I mistakenly ordered some other cable at a later date that is far less flexible, so make sure you get the right type. Visually you can recognize them by the color. (My cable is RAL 7032). The less flexible type is a darker grey.

Thanks, I am updating the grounding in the cabinet at the moment. Should prevent future issues, so good to get it done right. Good luck with your project! Robin

Hi, you could make some spacers (stand offs) that fit exactly between the back of the enclosure and the plate and then just mount it with a long bolt and a nut at the back of the enclosure, similar to how I mounted the TV bracket. It must be said though, if you don't have enough room to use the existing mounting points on the plate, you also probably don't have enough room for sufficient air flow, which can lead to heat building up in the enclosure. So if you have high components all the way up to the corner of the enclosure you should actually buy a larger box. Another option is for example to place the VFD in a different enclosure to free up some space.

@@uptimefab7412 Thanx i will try this. Enclosure is large enough for all od my parts, i just need to get some more space for cooling as you say, cables etc. By the way. How do you like that DDCS controller since You installed it inside? I am thinking about buying some new controller. Does it have any functions for correcting some minor imperfections in my machine geometry, You know, a skew axes for example?

The DDCS is a nice low cost controller. If you don't need any advanced functions like a built in PLC then it works fine. The new DDCS V4.1 has some useful upgrades like a LAN port. I also like the SZGH models. More advanced (PLC, macro) but larger and more expensive. It all depends on your needs and budget. My DDCSV3.1 as far as I know doesn't have an option to correct for skewed axes. It does have a backlash correction option.

Hi, I am just using a standard mach3 post processor.

@@uptimefab7412 I basically have some machine setup. Can you send me a copy of your post?

Hi, it is the standard "Mach3Mill" post which can be found in the Fusion 360 post library by searching for "Artsoft" or "mach". I could send you mine but it is exactly that one. Hope this helps. Note that I only use this for 3 axis mode. I do not know if it works with a 4th axis as I don't have paid license for Fusion.

Hi, I am not sure where you found these directions but I think this does not work. But the controller and PC are both a USB master. There should be one master and one slave. The female A connector indicates the master, which both devices have. Would be very nice though to be able to connect a PC. I think you would need to go for a more advanced controller with LAN.

@@uptimefab7412 thank you

@@uptimefab7412 It is not possible to connect the DDCS controller direct to the computer via USB. But you can use wireless file transfer. On the DDCS Facebook site, you can find out how to do that

Hi Miki, thanks for the tip. I think they mention the toshiba as an option, which is very expensive. Based on your comment I was looking through the various options and found a SanDisk Connect Wireless USB drive. Apparently this can also connect to your wifi network (instead of creating it's own network) so you should be able to access this from a laptop. Thanks for sparking my interest on this. Just ordered one. If it does not work I can use that for something else. Cost 55 euros. Update: so that did not work.... The Sandisk Connect is a very nice wireless USB dirve that you can connect to directly or through your home wifi network, but not when the drive is plugged in. When plugged in it is in USB drive mode and you cannot access it anymore through wifi. I am letting this one rest for now.

Not sure what the benefits would be for cooling a spindle with oil on a hobby machine. It might stay cleaner for longer as nothing organic should grow in it, but personally I have only seen (including industrial) machines with water based coolant for the spindle housing. I am sure there are machines that would benefit from oil cooling, but I am not familiar with them. Also seems easier for a hobby machine to use water based coolant.

@@uptimefab7412 Never mix electricity with water. So I'm going down that route.

Hi, I wouldn't be too worried about water causing a short circuit in the spindle. The water channel should be separated from the electrical wiring. Just make sure to ground the body of the spindle. A lot of equipment in and around the house work with water and electricity, as long as it is properly designed and grounded it should be ok. Just my 2 cents, if you are using something else for coolant and it works, than that is fine as well.

you can just split the signal for the Y axis though to drive it as a slave.

@@SuperBooster007 You don’t understand what slave drive really is. Sending the same pulse and direction signals to multiple drives is not a slave drive configuration, it is parallel drive config. There is more to slave drive than driving two motors. In slave drive config each motor can move independently which is the basis for automatic squaring of the gantry during homing routine. Homing routine is different in slave drive set up. The controller takes input from two separate limit switches ( on separate inputs) and moves each end of the gantry until each switch is triggered. If the switches are carefully adjusted, the gantry is set perfectly perpendicular to the axis of movement every time the machine is homed.

you are correct in what you say. But most controllers do not support automatic squaring (including the DDCS 3.1). So using the parallel drive configuration will do just fine. Use hard stops on a small machine like this to square off the gantry, highly accurate and trouble-free forever. The best solution is the simplest one that works...

@@aps3000miki All decent quality controllers support automatic squaring. Even inexpensive Mach3 with $5 parallel port break out board does. Do read my earlier comment because based on your comment I don’t think you understand how automatic squaring of the gantry procedure is executed by the controller. Squaring of the gantry on toy CNC machines is not an issue. But for large production machines it is essential. If you think otherwise then I am guessing your experience is limited to toys.

All shielded cables inside the cabinet are now connected to the central grounding point. See part 3 in this video series. Indeed needed to be corrected.

@@uptimefab7412 Yea. Already seen that you have fixed this issue ))

Did not get everything right on the first try, but we are getting there :) Thanks for the feedback!

Hi, 500x400x175mm - Famatel 39145. If you have the space, a bit larger is better, now it only just fits.

@@uptimefab7412 thank you very much! Good luck!

Hi I am making Gcode with Fusion360 and Mach3 post processor, but there are many other options for a simple 3 or 4 axis router.

Hi Austin, if I understand your question correctly, you are primarily looking to get education for programming the CNC. If so, I would recommend watching channels like Tom Stikkelman or NYC CNC. If you are looking for more information on electronics and mechanics of CNC builds, there is also information available, but I have to admit, it is hard to find a single source with all basic information, so it will take some time to find what you need. I unfortunately do not offer any consultancy service, since I already don't have enough time as it is. The only advice I can give you is spend time gathering information from the various sources and read manuals, sorry I am not aware of any shortcuts. I hope you can spend the time because it is a very rewarding hobby when you get things to work.

Hi, my french is a bit rusty, but I think you want to know which post processor. Some other people have asked this as well, the standard Mach3 post in fusion 360 works for me.

@@uptimefab7412 merci beaucoup pour votre réponse on va essayer merci

De rien

@@uptimefab7412 bonjour pour le réglage des drivers par rapport au moteur pas à pas on me dis qu'il faut connaître les micropas des moteurs et les ampère sur la notice des moteurs il parle des ampère mai pas des micropas si vous avec une réponse pour moi merci je regarde vos vidéo dommage que je ne parle pas anglais il son instructif

Hi, you can basically use any microstep setting on the steppers as long as it does not exceed the capability of the controller at the maximum speed you are running the router. The motor operates smoother with higher microstep settings, but the higher you go, the less difference you will notice with each increase. I am using 2000 pulses per revolution, which is 1/10 microstep, since a stepper has 200 pulses per revolution. How to calculate DDCS parameters for microstepping is covered in the PDF on my website in the written article.

Hi, thanks for the tip. I am not sure about this for my country and I don't have an electrical background, but this was my reasoning: in my research I found a diagram from a supplier where both N and L were switched (DamenCNC). Also, both the contactor and mains disconnect have marked "N" terminals, which are also marked as such in the manuals. I have no way of knowing which is actually line, since I can rotate the wall plug. Therefore, I think there is no harm in switching both, as this is the equivalent to pulling out the mains wall plug. If someone can indicate what the standard is in the Netherlands and why only one of the leads can be switched that would be much appreciated. Note that the yellow/green ground wire is bypassing the switch. Thanks again for your feedback and sorry I do not have a definitive answer at the moment about the current standard.

@@uptimefab7412 What i've googled we're using wall plug type E also same wall socket --- you should have same plug in your machine - because you must have L(life) in socket againts your left hand(heart) N must be on right side and Ground on the PIN(yellow/green wire). so you'll always have L on the right side also you cant use plug with 2 pins thats how its should be and i hope in every europe country. Mainly its for safety reasons and how the breakers and RCD (those you should have in your electrical cabinet in your house/apartment)works properly ... its hard to explain in english but this is how I wiring our stuffs

@@milldam9884 Hi, where I live we use the F type plug (or C if ungrounded). The F plug is reversible, meaning you can rotate the plug 180 degrees and it will fit fine. You can't see which side is L or N when looking at the plug. With AC circuits it doesn't really matter how it is wired and typically switches for appliances switch only one of the wires. However, to me it seems safer for a CNC to completely disconnect both wires, especially since I can't predict which one is L.

Because my German is a bit rusty. Even worse than my English:)

Hi Jim, I missed this comment initially due to your second comment. Only noticed the last comment. Anyway, sorry to see that you are having issues with the pendant. Mine works without any issues. Bought it in November 2019. It was also included in a set together with the controller. (Newcarve on Aliexpress, who no longer offer this specific set). Not sure if the store bundles it or if they buy a complete set from Digital Dream. Hope you get your issues resolved. Robin.