Fingers crossed!

Might be a while before that happens, the firmware available for these home builds doesn't have PS5 support for tournament use :/

Oh are smash players using hit box’s now?

@@thesaltmerchant4564 nah, riddles is playing SF6 now.

@@thesaltmerchant4564 They have for years

Yeah, I saw their link last night. Super reasonable price too. Good luck with Flatbox No. 2!

Right on! It's not a completed Hush video with a deminator comment! Thanks for your consistent support as always!

Awesome! And thank you for the support and for your help!

@@HushMySweet1 i hate you 2 with every fiber of my being.

Right on! I hope it goes well for you and you get a cool little controller out of it. Thanks for watching.

Right on! Maybe when there's a more mainstream 30 mm button PCB variant you'll give it a shot! Thanks for watching!

You bet! Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

Yes! A 30 mm sounds version sounds cool. Sort of a shiokenstar meets Flatbox vibe. Thanks for watching/commenting!

Is the size of the big keycap at the bottom 30mm?

@@kleen131 Yeah, 30 mm for the jump function and 24 for all the others.

I appreciate that! Thanks for your kind comment and for watching!

lol Right on, dude!

Thank you! Yeah, I was really impressed with the resin. Fingerprints aside, it looks really clean and I like the added weight over the 3d print.

I was going say, just burn off your fingerprints... but that doesn't stop the skin from producing oil 😅

​@@HushMySweet1What was the cost for the resin print? Seriously considering going that route.

@@Robosan4000 PCBWay donated it for the project. This is one of their highest end resin offerings (transparent!), so I think it's like $100 for the case. You could always go with their translucent resin and for 20% cheaper than the transparent if that's too steep. Good luck!

No problem! Hope it helps you!

Awesome! Hopefully the Flatbox works well for you! They are fun little units.

I got one of those, too, for similar reasons. Mine is clearly a knockoff running GP2040-CE, but it's built well enough and even has an OLED screen. Sometimes the buttons get stuck, which I still haven't figured out if it's an issue with the low profile Cherry reds or the button keycaps. Taking my time, but I think I will still try DIY-ing my own controller because I'm not a huge fan of the "standard" layout for all-button controllers.

@@ZovcDrafts Those OLED screens are cool, but I would hate to have buttons get stuck. That's a major con for me. I agree with you on the standard all-button layouts. I like it when they spread things out a bit more. I'm also excited to see some future options with some atypical button placements for Drive Impact-type stuff. Good luck on your DIY controller! Tag me on r/fightsticks when you finish! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching/commenting!

Yeah, I agree! That clear resin enclosure really takes it up a notch beyond the usual 3d printed stuff. Thanks for watching!

I hope so too! Just need PCBWay to sponsor another video!

I've got so many irons in the fire with videos right now (it's a good problem, but I only have enough time in my schedule to get out one a week). Is there something specific you'd like to see in future build vids down the line? Thanks for watching!

Very cool!

Would you happen to have a list of source parts. I am looking to set one up for my XSX

Awesome, good luck with the build!

I actually reviewed one of their controllers a while back. I thought they were definitely a good option for their price and PS5 compatibility.

I'm waiting for some good ones hit the open-source Github pages so we can try that! You have to know your way around Tinkercad or Kicad to design new PCBs to accommodate the extra buttons. Here's hoping a good, free one comes sooner rather than later because I agree, more buttons, especially for SF6 would be more ideal. In the meantime, I see that Mavercade is working on some multi-button prototypes.

Awesome! Good luck!

The hero we need!

Hey, are you willing to do any sort of collaboration? I am also working on something similar that utilizes a RPi Pico. Have been stuck for some time and didn’t move forward. Let me know!

Right on! Yeah, I think they are fun little units and it's cool you are helping out your buddies with some builds!

shittt wanna make me one? haha

@@panpan1985 A lot of people build several at a time and then unload the extras to their friends/scene/whatever. But some of them sell the extras to recoup some of their costs. I know several have sold on www.reddit.com/r/Fightsticksforsale/ Good luck!

You gave them away?

@@severussinYeah, just to some people I hang out with IRL regularly. They weren't previously into traditional fighters (just a bit of Smash mostly) so I doubt they would've bought them if I'd tried to sell them anyway. This way I'm able to introduce them to arcade controllers at least. Although it's still surprisingly hard to get them to use them even when they were free. It took setting up a console with Soulcalibur IV and showing them it worked with the Flatbox to get a lot of them playing with theirs after months of having them.

The full mix is actually on this channel along with a bunch of other synthy covers of fighting game OSTs. Feel free to check them out! Thanks for watching/listening!

@@HushMySweet1 I have made traditional arcade box, but now it's time to change and switch to Flat box .Thanks now you got a subscriber ...

I'm slow at shooting, editing, and writing, so I can really only do one per week without sacrificing on family time and other obligations. But, I'll add that idea to my ever-growing backlog. Thanks for watching!

@@HushMySweet1 I understand. Either way you have a new subscriber. Keep up the great work!

You'd have to learn about how to actually modify the PCBs in certain programs, but you could theoretically do all that. That goes way beyond this video though! Good luck and let us know what you come up with!

Yeah, definitely exciting times in the fightstick peripheral world! It will be interesting to see where we'll be in a couple of years. Thanks for the support as always!

I doubt it We already had access to building fightsticks and buttonboxes The majority of players will stick to the low effort funftioning out of box option, on top of that theres a very large group of players with a notable preference for things like metal enclosures for larger boxes, AND unless sony stops being assholes with needing controller keys, or people collaborate with brook to mass produce ps5 flatbox pcbs it just isnt a reasonable option. In short, the future is still in prebuilt boxes

Lol, yeah. No budget for a fightstick/camera assistant yet so I'm left to juggle alone. Anyway, thank you for watching and commenting! I appreciate it! And definitely more GP2040-CE stuff coming down the line!

Awesome. Good luck with your NES version!

Hey, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!

Just carefully read the github. All of the instructions are there and you can order with the LEDs installed through assembly. There is a special firmware for it that’s all setup and ready to go. Good luck!

Github is where a lot of these free files are, but I have not yet seen a true open source one ready to go with the things you described. You can make them in TinkerCad or Kicad, but it's going to be a huge learning process if you are unfamiliar with this sort of stuff. The Open Stick Community can help you if you encounter questions along the way. discord.gg/G4TCGPem edit: And thanks for watching!

Hey, thanks! That would actually be a fun video concept, but unfortunately I sold the Alpha to a buddy, so I don't have it to test and tweak. I think I remember it having an extra wire to the joystick, but I would imagine it would still take a 5-pin joystick to all-button conversion harness. You could get a BitBang Magician's SOCD cleaner to make sure the inputs were being read the way you wanted. You'd also need plexi like you said, but a metal panel below it to support the plexi and sort of act as the top panel frame (you would not want to solely rely on plexi). I'm just spitballing stuff here since I don't have it in front of me to look at, so I'm not sure how difficult the change to leverless would be. If you could buy the face panel plexi and plate, it would make things a lot simpler. If I get another one in the future, I'll see about a swap since that is a good idea. Thanks for watching!

@@HushMySweet1 Thank you SO MUCH! I appreciate the reply and all the information. You are the best! thanks for the advice. Always!! @ Thanks for watching!

Thanks! As far as customized layouts, they are not easily done at the moment, and we're just using the jfedor model to keep things easy for this vid. But! I hope this will be the catalyst that gets more people into that PCB design element, so I'm optimistic about the future. Right now though, this is a cheap all-button option (mostly catering to PC players, but it works on a handful of other systems as well) and it's cool because everything is open-source so you could feasible print and source everything to make it all yourself. I'll definitely post some more stuff when people start expanding on these initial templates though. Thanks for watching!

@@HushMySweet1really looking forward to it! I personally would like to have more buttons playing SF6, so for now I kinda just ditched my hitbox and play with keyboard lol

"Come back to bed. He'll still be geeking out about controllers in the morning." lol, thanks for watching/commenting! I appreciate it!

Indeed.

Awesome, thanks for watching and passing it around. There isn't an open source Smash Box version to my knowledge, but you can learn to modify PCBs and be the change you want to see in the world! Let us know what you guys come up with!

But is it as classy as that mahogany enclosure with the half-blind dovetail joints you put together? Is it?! (Thanks for watching!)

I would play around on their site. Maybe upload some test files from github to kind of see. You'll likely need "kicad" to help design the PCB. There is also a group of super smart people on the "OpenStickCommunity" discord. If you have specific questions, there's typically someone who can help. Hopefully that gets you started. Thanks for watching!

Interesting! I hadn't heard anything about that. The controller is holding up just great, but I don't know that I've ever exposed it to heat/sun. Just drop it in the bag or on the shelf and there you go! Let me know if you build one and how it holds up where you are from! Thanks for watching!

lol nice! I hope the HitBox serves you well! Thanks for watching.

I don't know the ins and outs of Smash very well so I'm not sure. What are the inputs for tilts? Just a single button press or something beyond that? If it's a combination, then you'd likely be in macro territory and some players would probably take issue with that. (But I'm out of my element because I know so little about the game.)

I've not seen one that's open source like this, but the SGF Zappa sort of fits what you're describing. When someone uploads a free equivalent on GitHub I will make it. Thanks for watching!

I believe I used these ones here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8GN63S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@HushMySweet1 thanks for the link mate! They really need to update the documentation with this important detail.

Yeah, the technology has made big advancements!

I can point you in the right direction, but it may be more complicated. You'll need to start using tinkercad or kicad, and practice with some PCB edits. The reason this Flatbox is more appealing is because all of the thinking/testing work is already done so you can just use a PCB that's ready to go. You might consider joining the open stick community discord as well. They can help with specific issues. discord.gg/j9g64Pqm Good luck!

Thanks for watching! I bought them on Amazon: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm)

I got them from a fightstick buddy, TheTrain several months back (so it's hard to remember everything). He's got a pretty good 3d printer, so maybe that's what he did. Sorry that's not more help, but thanks for watching!

Hmmm. I suppose anything is possible, but you'd have to make some changes. The original cases have contours on the inside and then the screw insert areas line up with the holes in the PCB. You're not going to be saving any money over a 3d print, but you could probably fab up something. Let us know if come up with a cool new plexi case! Thanks for watching!

Some of the different versions require different stuff, so double-check. I grabbed the heat set inserts and the screws on Amazon (along with the USB C cable, and those little sticky feet for the Rev4 case). Inserts: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm) Screws: NACX M2 x 6mm Phillips Countersunk Flat Head Machine Screws Bolts, A2-70, Silver Tone, 304 Stainless Steel, 500Pcs Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

@@HushMySweet1 Thank you so much! This has been a big help

I believe that's correct. I want to say that hot-swap bottom has an ever-so-slightly deeper area for the buttons to accommodate the hotswap stuff.

You'll need to upload the .stl files on to their website. Here is the bottom section: github.com/TheTrainGoes/flatbox-rev5-rgb/blob/main/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20case%20-%20Art%20Case/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20-%20Art%20Case%20-%20Main%20Frame.stl

You'll have to post your final MK build on r/fightsticks when you finish it so we can see it. Thanks for watching!

Xbox doesn't work right now with GP2040-CE firmware. Similarly, you'd likely need some MagicBoots pass-through tech (there's another video on this channel which sort of explains it) for PS4/5 compatibility. If you need all of those systems, you'll likely need something like a Fusion board and a more traditional Hitbox-style all-button controller. Thanks for watching.

That's definitely another option! Thanks for watching all the same!

Yeah I'm thinking of doing the same

Just order one too from aliexpress ship time is killer but for 50 i think i can wait

I don't see anyone selling acrylic cases even w/o the inserts. I think part of that reason is these units are supposed to be small and inexpensive, so when you start subbing out that cheap 3d printed case for a $100 acrylic one, you lose a lot of potential buyers. I just ordered this one as a one-off from PCBWay. You could likely do the same. Then, just wallow the heat set insert cavities ever so slightly with a multi-tool, and then epoxy or super glue them in place. (Skip the heat entirely.) Just make sure they are standing as straight as possible and you don't get any of your glue inside the inserts. Good luck and thanks for watching!

Not that I'm aware of. Hopefully this video acts as a catalyst to get more people into the PCB design process. You can also join the Open Stick Community discord (they can help with questions) and try your own hand at the next big design. Good luck!

They are flat, so not exactly true concave or convex. If you want some concave ones, then Junk Food Arcade sells caps for their Micros which will fit this. You could try there. Good luck in the hunt, and thanks for watching!

The clear resin one is the Rev5. The white case 3d printed one is the Rev4. Some of the different versions require different stuff, so double-check. I grabbed the heat set inserts and the screws on Amazon (along with the USB C cable, and those little sticky feet for the Rev4 case). Inserts: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm) Screws: NACX M2 x 6mm Phillips Countersunk Flat Head Machine Screws Bolts, A2-70, Silver Tone, 304 Stainless Steel, 500Pcs

@@HushMySweet1 Perfect. Thank you very much. I got a rev4 printed and am now inspire to print it in clear.

Awesome! What arcade stick did you get? (And I totally get wanting to share the good news about fightsticks to like-minded people. I'm always stoked after a new build.)

@@HushMySweet1 A local guy was making them so I went ahead and bought one I knew I was going to have to get the adapter or board but I'm fine with learning how to do a board swap. I also have your videos to help guide me on how everything internally should look. Thanks for giving me the knowledge of how to upgrade and build a fight stick

The reason this is cheap and easy is that the PCB design work has already been done and has proven successful. If you want custom layouts, there aren't any easy ones ready to go on GitHub, so you'll need to make your own. You'll likely need "kicad" to help design the PCB. There is also a group of super smart people on the "OpenStickCommunity" discord. If you have specific questions, there's typically someone who can help. And if it's proving too daunting, you may be able to commission one of them to help you get the initial files going. Hopefully that gets you started in the right direction. Thanks for watching!

Look into the easyeda and kicad. I don't know of an existing mirrored layout, so you'll likely have to customize/edit a PCB yourself. Good luck with your project!

It's okay, but not ideal if you're suffering from carpal tunnel issues. I don't know of a truly ergonomic one off the top of my head. You're thinking of a top that is tented or something, yes? You could look into the open stick project discord and see if anyone there could point you to a modified template, or help you create your own. Thanks for watching!

lol, damn. Thanks for watching/commenting all the same!

Hey, right on! If you dig the music, it's actually all on this channel. You'll have to scroll back a page through my vids probably (or there is a synthwave playlist at the top which has all of them linked). For this channel, I originally wanted fighting game OST synthwave covers, fighting game video essays, fightstick news and tech, and a dash of my own gameplay sprinkled in. I've found the most success with fightstick stuff so I've leaned harder in that direction to give people more of what they want. Now I just use it all as bg music since it didn't really resonate with viewers. Thanks for watching/listening!

It's a little different depending on your model. Basically though, you'll just need to flash the appropriate firmware. Just scroll down to the one you're making, download the corresponding firmware and follow the firmware installation steps. I'll leave some handy links to help you out. Good luck! gp2040-ce.info/downloads/ gp2040-ce.info/installation/

I have the Micro and the XL so I pulled them out to look for you. Looks like the Micros are slightly shorter from the top of the shell to the top of the buttons. It's fairly marginal, but if you're wanting the lowest distance between top of cap and top of panel, looks like Micro has the Flatbox beat on that front. Hope that helps!

@@HushMySweet1 Thanks for checking!

Nice! I think I like the buttons better than the wedges as well.

I think the 10 or 30 are just the number counts. Search up Kailh Low Profile Choc Switches and pick the color you want (I have another video detailing the differences between these styles of switches). You need 12 switches if you're replacing them all (so you'd need two sets of the 10 packs if you can't find lower counts), but if you're just replacing a lone switch, then there might be a better option elsewhere (like a demo variety pack or something). Thanks for watching.

PCBWay donated it for this project. You can use normal 3d printers, but they had some high end resin printers, so I had the case halves printed in premium transparent resin. It costs substantially more than regular 3d printing though (so like $100 just for the case). Good luck with the project!

Not with the Flatbox, but I was told BEASTBOX will be uploading their stuff to GitHub for people to try before too long. And that's a company using two extra buttons. No concrete date for that though.

I feel it should be pretty straightforward for you with your prior experience. One issue is that you typically have to order 5 PCBs from one of these assembly services. Some of the cost is also dependent on if you have easy access to a 3d printer or need to order enclosures. I think you should be able to make a Flatbox rev 4 for like fifty or sixty bucks. If you really want to make it simple, you can just buy the assembled PCB from SGF or another etsy seller. They go for like $35 and you can just buy the single board. All sort of depends what you're after though. Good luck with the project!

That little flash memory chip? Or if you don't have a usb connector or RP2040 chip, maybe you have a Rev 5? Otherwise if this is a Rev 4, then you may have yourself a completely unassembled board with nothing at all on it? That doesn't bode well because there's a lot of stuff you'd need to add that can't really be soldered by hand.

i had the rev 4 completely unassembled lol, I ordered new pcbs with the parts on it but I am 100% doing the rev 5 next time@@HushMySweet1

@@easypeasygamers6885 Glad you got it figured out!

Not really? I think the appeal of these is that you just plug the low profile switches into a PCB and it's all one little unit with no real wiring, and super portable/cheap. Once you get into Sanwa buttons, you have to do some wiring and have a minimum depth to your case to accommodate. You could probably dial in some low prof choc switches to give it a more "standard" arcadey feel, but I don't know of a good equivalent. You're getting into Flatbox and Hitbox stuff with standard buttons. Good luck in the hunt though!

Nothing off the top of my head. At least not open source. I was sent a Haute controller similar to what you're describing, but there are so many videos ahead of it, I likely won't get to that review for a while. Let us know if you find anything in the meantime that works.

The V4 should be like $50-60. The V5, like $100 maybe? Don't quote me on that though. I had the case donated and a lot of the other stuff in my possession already, so I didn't keep good track of the money. You'll also likely have to order the assembled PCBs 5 at a time for minimum orders. That changes things as well. Anyway, good luck with the builds and thanks for watching!

I bought these on Amazon: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm)

The easy way is just plugging in a Brook wingman converter. The hard way requires an overhaul. These things run on GP2040-CE based stuff, and that isn't currently compatible with the PS5. So, we are waiting for the Open Stick Community to solve the PS5 so we can update the firmware. No timeline on that though. If you don't want to wait, then you'll likely need to integrate Brook hardware. They have a PS5 daughterboard add-on as well as a new Fusion board. Check out devices like the Zappa and some of the newer Slab Mini PS5 prototypes to see how they've been tackling PS5 functionality.

The tact push button ones? Or the low profile switches? If it's the low profile, then you could try dark yellows. That's probably my favorite switch type (a bit stiffer than red) and they always seem to be in stock. Also the Rev4 Bridget doesn't have lights if that's what you meant. github.com/sgfdevices/Bridget

I can't remember the exact amount off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure you have to order at least 5. You'll have to plug in the files and add 5 to cart to see what the total is. I think they were all less than $20 a board though, but I can't remember the exact numbers. It works well to help test and give you some confidence in case you make a mistake, but they come together pretty well, so likely you'd just have extras for your friends. Some people unload their extras on r/fightsticksforsale to recoup costs. Good luck with the project!

All the files for the PCBs and enclosures are on their github pages. If you want to print a Rev5 one in resin like was shown here, you'll need to grab the files for both the top and bottom panels (and source an acrylic topper). Just read through the github. github.com/TheTrainGoes/flatbox-rev5-rgb/blob/main/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20case%20-%20Art%20Case/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20-%20Art%20Case%20-%20Top%20Support.stl

@@HushMySweet1 thanks

These? github.com/sgfdevices/Bridget/tree/main/Buttons

Typically, you should be able to make a Rev 4 one for like $50-60. Depends a bit on your access to a 3d printer. One more issue is that a lot of these assembly services have a minimum order count of 5 (so you'll have practice boards or extras to finish and give/sell to your friends in the scene). Hope that helps, thanks for watching.

something like this minus the left pinky button: i.imgur.com/RE4ZFBo.jpg

Mavercade offers something similar to what you're asking and they are experimenting with different / extra button placements in some of their new controllers. You could also commission someone in the Open Stick Community discord to help you build exactly what you want. discord.gg/zjJgvAM5 The issue with this path is that you'll typically have to buy minimum 5 PCBs from these assembly services, so you'll have that on top of those costs. Good luck with the project and let us know what you come up with!

@@HushMySweet1 thanks! Yes, I've seen mavercade's new designs earlier today. Looks very promising.

Hmmm...could you try changing the input mode to see if that would help? Just hold the appropriate button as you plug it in and then everything is saved for future (so you'd only need to do this one time if you find the right one). I want to say this happened to me once and I changed the input to something else and it solved it. To change the input mode, hold one of the following buttons as the controller is plugged in: B1 for Nintendo Switch B2 for XInput B3 for DirectInput/PS3 B4 for PS4 R2 for Keyboard gp2040-ce.info/#/usage

@@HushMySweet1 is this using the gp2040 firmware or the jfedor firmware?

@@floridacaninecenter I'm in and out today so hard to troubleshoot this in real time. Try joining discord.gg/G4TCGPem on discord and the members there will be able to help you get it solved.

@@HushMySweet1 thank you!

The ones you see in the video do work on those systems. The only issue you may find is the PS4 requires special keys/codes, so that one can be more of a headache if you can't find them. The ps3 and PC should work by default though.

The transparent resin case alone was like $100, but I had it donated for the project by PCBWay. If you just want to buy a typical Rev5 one, there's someone selling more standard 3d-printed versions for $120.

What you're thinking of normally is where a wire connects from a button to the PCB. Here, the buttons connect directly to the PCB.

You'll need to solder in the hotswap sockets (so you can push them in like you see in the vid) or solder the switches directly to the PCB.

Maybe down the road I can do a vid on that, but it wouldn't be for a while. (I did do a bit of screen customization on those little displays in that Slab Mini video.) Thanks for watching all the same!

I'm not quite sure I fully understand, but this is actually what I would consider pretty DIY-friendly if you are a thorough reader. Thanks for watching!

@@HushMySweet1 What I mean its if theres a way to make this work with Literally just switches and raspberry Pi . without the need for PCB manufacturer and 3d printing. after some search online looks like its posible. so yeaa

Well, a lot of times you need to order assembled PCBs from these services in like batches of 5. So if you can finish the extras to sell at a big discount to your buddies, you can feasibly break even.

www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8GN63S2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

SGF has a variation ready to go on their website. Or you can manually upload one to PCBWay.

@HushMySweet1 thanks I jist check our sbf

Hmmm...there's the Pico Fighting board, but not really a true 1 to 1 alternative like this that I'm aware of. The rev5 uses the Waveshare RP2040-Zero?