Thanks bro

thanks bro

richard vxincar y

Thanks man

+Mick Kennedy Very interesting ! What type of damping material do you use and what lengh ? Also, you put it on the 2 large facing surfaces or 1 or 4 faces ? Thanks !

Mick Kennedy i have try this just now..it sounds great..

Thanks bro

Thanks bro

I've thought the same. You would need 1 tline cabinet that was absolutely massive. Not practical but I could only imagine the clean bass

Thanks bro

Sorry for the late reply but it sounds very nice and soft

because they are expensive

Hello, I'm searching for any data that can help me to design this kind of labyrinth speakers and it's not easy to find. Did you get any info?

There are calculators online mh audio nl

Your port should be tuned to the length of the frequency of the Free Air Resonance of your specific driver. How you determine that is you first take the speed of sound (1120 fps) and divide it by the driver's free air resonance (fs). Then you take that value and divide that by four because you only need a quarter of that wave length to make an effective T-line enclosure (just trust me on that, too long to explain). The port should be equal to or slightly greater than the cone area of you driver. So say your cone is 124 square inches, your port, at any given point, should be equal to or slightly exceed that amount of area. I've only ever built a single T-line in my life, in fact it was only a few months ago for a Sundown E12 v2 subwoofer. Let me tell you, the box may be huge, but it kills it in the SQ department and low end extension over my ported design previously (I can hit the low 20's with only a 3db drop). If you got the room, definitely give a Transmission Line Enclosure a try! Hope everything I said made sense!

My result from the devides is 8.64 what is this? the length of the box?

Billy Orfanos Yes,Yes it is

Capt Crawfish I built one and made it just slightly smaller at the very end as it tapered down the line... loved it because it made a huge thud whenever it got to the end! I'm pretty sure it's not the best to do with a speaker but then again... DAT BASS THO

Vasilis Orfanos , computer design, did you watch the video at all

+sinesh vs There are tons of designs available on the net, try joining Pinterest or any number of audio websites.

+martianshoes thanks

sinesh vs You are exceedingly welcome. There are a number of TL kits around too, however the best ones are in the UK.

sinesh vs If you want some links I would send some from here.

i build subs to , i use screws only when the sub goes over 1000w up just nails . it`s much easier and u get nice finish.

+bill pruett So basically, as long as we follow that rule, the width of the cabinet could be the diameter of the driver plus a few inches (for the driver to be installed on the baffle) and that's it ? What about the opening at the other end ? Thanks !

***** I appreciate you taking some time to answer. TL's have a part of mysteries for sure ! It deserves a try ! Thanks !

I am on my third design myself. The first was a Tapered subwoofer enclosure; the second set was a non-tapered set with a chamber on the front for full range drivers; and the set I am finishing now is a tapered mltl for full range speakers. The taper effects a number of variables, but what I was going for was essentially an increased dampening coefficient which I believe is described as acoustic compliance. I have been looking at the design using the principals of second order differential equations, but with a happy mix of qualitative and quantitative approaches. Go to quarter-wave.com for some decent reading on the subject. I burned through a 4x8 sheet and a half on this last set including a few mis-cuts; however, the boxes are all bevel jointed with cabinet plywood which requires quite a bit more skill and tolerance then just doing butt joints.

TheFootbaldd That seems great ! So far, are you satisfied with the results (sound) of your projects ? Or is there a quest for better results all the time ? Thanks !

***** Thanks ! MDF could be less expensive (but it so dirty to work with)...

+Mario Osegueda it was an experiment i was doing on a tl enclosure if i was going to keep it i would have used gold plated terminals and painted the box gloss black, it was built with leftover materials i had in the workshop ;)

Gold plated terminals are not necessary. Gold is the second best conductor of electricity behind silver, but silver oxidizes so gold is used instead. There are now brass alloys (CuZn39Pb3) that work very well. I do Front Of House Sound for bands. Professional PA Systems have way more power capability than what most car and home stereos power amps can produce. The Neutrik NL4FC connector has 4 contacts that are rated 30 A rms continuous per each contact and 40 A with an audiosignal, duty cycle 50 %. If that isn't enough power handling capability for you then you can use the 8 contact version (NL8FC) and double the contacts per speaker. The contacts are brass alloy (CuZn39Pb3) rated for greater than 5000 mating cycles. The contact resistance is less than or equal to 3 milli-Ohms after it's rated mating cycle of 5000 times. They are twist lock and will not come out until you cycle the latch. This is the connector you would use on the cable (Male) and can handle 2 voice coils @ 30A ea. or 1 @ 60A. They are about $6.00 ea on Amazon www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/fc-series/nl4fc This is the connector you would use on the cabinet (Female) They are about $5.00 ea on Amazon www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors/nl4mpr Here is the 8 contact version. It is the same physical size as the 4 contact version but can run 4 voice coils @ 30A ea or 2 @ 60A or 1 @ 120A www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/fc-series/nl8fc

+richard vxincar oh i see ok cool nice job on the box how was the sound?

+Rick Jones i know they are not necessary i was trying to make a point....

if its an experiment and you happed to not want it any more, i will be happy to take it off your hands. i live in the uk so postage should be okay, ill even pay for postage aswell

No that's not what your doing. The line does several things. As the speaker moves forward the air behind it gets pumped out the port. The air is trapped inside the box and slows down thus amplyfying the lower frequencies. If you put a microphone at the port and graph it you will see it generate a frequency response curve with the frequencies below the speakers fs boosted. The second thing it does is add volume to the system which increases bass responce and accuracy. The stuffing is also very important in these boxes. It breaks up standing waves help kill reflections and increase the pressure behind the speakers cone, which helps it articulate and react to frequency changes more effeciently. That's what people call "tighter" sounding bass. These enclosures do alot they aren't simple at all

Ive heard sealed enclosures give a more natural bass response

+Synthematix NO no. The transmission line is just a quarter wave resonator. In ported box we have a helmotz resonator. In fact the Helmotz resonator has a 180 phase shift at resonance frequency, but the quarter wave pipe has only 90 degrees of phase shift. You actually have twice more phase shift in a vented box. Twice more 'delaying'.

+Synthematix You've "heard" nothing

+Cedric Perion blind test people and 99.9% won't be able to detect which is which!

I could be totally wrong but it seems you would want a slightly deeper cabinet to get the full effect