It definitely takes some getting used to. I found the second the chipping fluid beads you’re going to get crap results. I dust it on now in three thin coats.

Reference photos say otherwise Steve - particularly in the harsher environments of North Africa, Burma and the Pacific.

Besides the Uschi templates, look at taking a scrubbing pad like a Brillo, peeling that down very thin and spraying through that to make a random splatter pattern. I like the Uschi and Artool templates, but that brillo technique is another tool of randomness that works extremely well.

The 308th FS of thr 31st FG flew the iX, converted to the VIII until 1944 when they moved into Mustangs. Here is a source also stating the different types the USAAF operated. warisboring.com/americas-spitfires/

@@TheModelGuy a-ha I stand somewhat corrected, apologies, and thanks for your reply. The USA pilots did indeed fly the mk ix, but not until the Sicily/Italy campaign. I learned something, many thanks!

@@Guy_6397 that's what the channel is for :).

I'll have to try that too

@@TheModelGuy if u contact me on instagram (if you have it) at Scalemodels.inc ill send you some pictures if you want.

Gotta push the limits to find out how much is too much. :) The important thing is I learned from it moving forward.

Chipping fluid is a form of evil.

Or just use caulk.

It definitely takes a lot more fitting before committing to glue but it does give you a very accurate nose. I also have the Tamiya Mk I Spit in the stash, so we may see it one day in a series like the Mustangs

I agree with the two part top engine cowl considering the real one is one piece, i had terrible fitting issues with my MK IX

Awesome feed back, thank you :)

For oil streaks nothing beats a diluted base of your choice gravity and a small desk fan for some nice effects.

I have a C-2 I'm going to add LEDs to and motorize.

Good to know! Also you are seeing a lot of time and effort edited into a 13 minute video. It takes a lot of patience and failures to get to this level and I am learning new stuff still every day

@@TheModelGuy No offence,what you do,i can only dream about,you clearly know 99.9% of your history,i have seen loads of modellers make the same mistake,just wanted to let you know so that us lesser mortals would be informed in the future so that we don't make the same mistakes.I have seen loads of videos of builds in various scales that are truely incredible,but let down with 'chipped metal' wooden propellers.Wonderfull stuff!

Your the second person to tell me that. I'll have to look

I checked, and to my surprise, with a few 40-41 3 blade exceptions, this is true for the wood being a main construction for most, and all the late 4-5 blade models... That actually amazes me, as I always assumed they were metal...

The next project(s) are going to be a P-40 in 250 SQN colours and a tropic Hurricane. Both are commission builds so they've jumped the line

Are you putting it on enamel paints? I put it on a lacquer gloss and it flows very nice. Very easy to wipe away too

I've thought about it, but the canopy is one thing the ground crews tried to keep as clean as possible to help the pilot spot the enemy

I have a 1/32 CF-18 near the bench with a NORAD decal set. That may be a series because there is going to be a lot going on

@@TheModelGuy excellent! Must say Canada do pull off some excellent special liveries, shame the RAF don't do the same! Looking foward to seeing the build.

That was the last year the livery was epic. Cutbacks lead to just the tail fin in 2019

@@TheModelGuy It's a shame really. I'd love it if the RAF had done a full livery on a Tornado, best they really did is a spine and tail I've done on a 1/48 tornado F3. Germany and Canada are the best when it comes to special liveries.

I got mine from Ultracast. They’re from Uschi so I’m sure they’re online in other places too

That is used to add in lighter and darker tones to give the paint a worn look

I did. On the newer Mk Is I assemble the leading edge plug as well to the wing instead of the fuselage for a better alignment

@@TheModelGuy Thanks, just completed a Tamiya Mk 1, and the wing-fuselage fit on that was about as painless as can be, about to start an Eduard Mk V, and some initial test fitting suggests doing the lower wing first...have been wondering about those plugs on the inner leading edge. Beautiful work, by the way.

It's not that I am not happy with them, I'm just very critical of what I can do better on next time. As for completed models I'm not very sure. I think I average 10-12 a year, so maybe around 30 over the last few years?

Good question. Whatever one you are comfortable using. I use a cheap Iwata Clone for 90% of my work and a Pasche Talon for detail work. I gave the Talon to a friend to use because I did not like how much concentration it took to feather paint for motling. I'm getting a Procon 270 at the end of the month as a replacement. That's about $100 USD. I hear a lot of good things about it

@@TheModelGuy thanks

What do you need to know?

v money some good learning techniques

@@joemoma8384 Do you have an airbrush and compressor right now? If you do, this can get you started: 1. Pick your paint. you can go Acrylic (Tamiya, MMP, AK, Vallejo, Ammo, etc) which makes for less fumes and easier cleanup but not as durable a finish. Lacquer paints are more noxious but are, IMHO, the best paints. Tamiya Lacquer, AK Real Color, MRP, Mr Color/Gunze are all great brands with a variety of colours to choose from. 2. Match your thinner to your paint, Acrylics need acrylic thinners (don't use water), and Lacquers need Lacquer thinners, generally speaking. There is a exception where you can use MLT with Tamiya Acrylic paints, among others. IE Tamiya Acrylic paint needs Tamiya X20A thinner or Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner (MLT). Mr Color (Lacquer) needs MLT. For AK Real color use AK High compatibility Thinner or MLT. 3. Thin your paint at least 50/50. I use 60/40 for general painting and even thinner for mottling, stenciling, gun and exhaust stains. You wont be covering the entire model at once so no need to blast the paint on. Spray it in thin coats 3. Set your compressor between 15-20 psi, depends on your airbrush. 4. Watch YT videos. Model Guy has lots of footage and he's been putting up his ratios and pressures for reference. Notice that the airbrush is usually less than 2' from the surface of the model when spraying, and more often than not its even closer. 5. Practice on a paint mule. Adjust your pressure and thinner ratios, the distance from the brush to the model, how far back you're pulling the trigger (try 1/3 to 1/2 way back to avoid pooling the paint). hope this helps

v money thanks man this helped

I get this. I have a few kits with lots of resin and Eduard photoetch. Want to get more experience before tackling them

It didn't enter service until early 1943, the USAAF needed a better fighter near the end of 1942 and couldn't wait.

Not arguing that, it had a good service record , and could hold it's own. it just didn't have the Legs if the P-51

@@dbenci2071 quite a few USAAF pilots who flew the Spit and the Mustang said the Spitfire was more maneuverable than the Mustang. But like you said, it didn't have the range. Both aircraft were designed for different jobs.

Yeah, nothing was the "Best" at everything, equipment just worked or excelled with the right operators.

I try not to come across as pretentious but that’s what happens when you don’t follow the old dogmas of modelling. Gloss before decals, gloss with future etc. If that’s coming across as pretentious I apologize as it’s not my intent. As for finished 1/48 models, people have to remember they are paying for someone’s experience and time. Not a die cast model. €100 won’t even get a 1/72 kit from the bigger names.

@@TheModelGuy I apologise, my words were harsh and undeserving. I don’t know why I was so inclined. I do like your work, maybe I am annoyed with myself because I will not be able to be so precise. What has surprised me (on my return) is that modellers range from basic glue , paint maybe a little of this and that and ignore the overspray to folk like yourself. The thing is both are happy. I am more the former yet desiring to be the latter! Will I be happy? Is modelling for me? Sorry once again Bob

@@BobMuir100 modelling is a great hobby that anyone can enjoy at whatever level they want. I tell people when they say “I wish I was at your level” that it’s important to recognize we’re all at different parts of the road. I didn’t wake up one day and start building at this level. You’re seeing about seven years cultivation of failing and learning from failures.

@@TheModelGuy good points, thanks

There wasn't a premiere for this one.

@@TheModelGuy i still missed it :(

I'm 50/50 for stripping kits. One went well, the other blistered and was nfg after

Laminated wood for Rotol Jablo blades. There were also aluminium ones however. incidentally: the leading edge of those Jablo's were brass strips. Another weathering gotcha.