just add a removable tinting layer :DD

Insects: "yes"

At night? There is no night when this TV is running ;-) Cheers! S

Considering the LEDs run on voltage regulators anyway, you could just extend their potentiometers to the outside to lower their brightness

It will probably light the entire area. 🤣

no shot

Thanks, bud!

@Sid J honestly it's just cheap silicone sealant but it performed quite well compared to the competitors. Seeing it used in one of these awesome projects is great though!

dammm

Sure ya did, bud.

They don't block 100% though.

The glass does not block the entire UV band, plexiglass does. Normal or special glass blocks UVc, UVa, and partially UVb. UV adhesive can also be cured with purple light at 405nm or even blue light ranging at 435nm ~ 450nm. No special glass in modern windows can block blue light or purple light.

@@ThermalWorld_ I'd say the question isn't completely unwarranted, some UV resins if you have them open indoors, just from the light coming through the windows, they will not cure. A good example is most 3D printing resins, you don't need a darkroom to handle these resins. It's not just a matter of waiting longer for same dose, there is a intensity threshold below which it just doesn't cure. It's same sort of thing as reciprocity failure in photography. So when in doubt, it might be a good idea to test first.

glass by itself blocks 98% of UV light. Any glass.

Question can your light be dimmed as day turns to night or cloud coverage. I think the black band helps to reduce glare at edges improving clarity. Great job on build and explanation.

It's one of the rare channels that actually teaches you how to make stuff you can't really buy. Most other channels show you how to make a crappy version of something that's already on the market, except it'll cost you more money and time.

And for me it's like "Yeah interesting projects, but I hate his always overly happy and positive attitude", which is why I always downvote him.

@@TheScytheMoron why hate a good attitude?

@@epicn Dunno it just sickens me when someone is always smiling ... just seems unnatural and fake. Probably IS fake. I just dislike this kind of attitude.

@@TheScytheMoron Yea I hate people looking happy when they make something new.

Practice makes perfect... I used to be totally useless too

I probably could I just don’t have the money

@@coenraadloubser5768 I have an old cracked phone lying around and I’ll see what I can do with it! Was gonna throw it out but might aswell start practicing there :)

Go for it and stop being an itch

this is a great comment. I feel the same way, his projects are really advanced and despite his clear explainations a lot of it seems quite challenging still. but the videos are so clear and informative that they are really satisfying for your curiosity to see HOW someone would build something like this.

hahahaha

While the Pieces of brass can chill in the grass.

We actually did aluminum project in School when i was in the 5:th and 6:th grade. Its pretty simple to work with. Probably one of the easiest metals to work with. Its almost as easy as wood. The drawback is that the splinters are incredibly painful

Aluminum: 😮‍💨 Aluminium: 🥵

Marine rope: *quietly confident*

DIY beer?

69 likes, nice

@@Ashwekar made out of brass

@Yuna🤗 What in the fuck is this

@@turkym7md5 well it’s obviously a porn bot

Exactly

"In order to think outside the box, one must first have a box."

I swear he amazes me every video! Pure genius!

just because you haven't heard of it, doesn't mean no one else thought of it. there are outdoor-specific tvs and there has been for a while.

@@GraveUypo I never said I hadn’t heard of it. Quit trolling.

@@kjamison5951you said no one else thought whiich even more a lie

It really doesn’t make any sense to me how the color contrast not only wasn’t super blown out but improved. Yeah there’s absolutely no chance that the blacks will be super black at night though, I thought the only way to do that is with special led’s/backlights that can get very dim

at night it would burn your eyes at max brightness

Look up the Bartleson-Breneman effect. The additional surround luminance/brightness affects our perception of contrast.

The glossy finish of the glass really helps the contrast out in the daylight.

@@monhi64 at that point you're just inventing oled

Nah, if there's one channel I've taken many ideas from and followed a few is this one. The LED panels one was a godsend for when I started to do online classes at any time of the day, as well as converting an old screen into a secondary display. I do wonder just how much research goes into making each of these videos, it's really stunning.

@@riveraluciano I made the LED panels as well. Very handy.

@@biffbarely7045 some may say it's completely useless but his projects have so many logical bits which can come in handy for some projects like I want to build a table lamp using his ideas

Tbh 9/10 projects are just plainly dumb and usless. LED panels are the only one that can be actually used on daily life. His "stupid" computers are usless. Why the fuck you would want a water cooled TV or a half wooden laptop...

Also the moment he used those 48v LED panels this project isntantly became not a DIY. Because noone in their SANE mind would use 48volts LED panels to light a WATERCOOLED TV. Its just stupid.

Applications like these is why Sharp makes rLCD (reflective LCD). No back/front light needed when it's bright, then lights on as it gets dark.

Yeah he will definitely burn in the polarizer over time my new laptop has it from the task bar

If we need to rebuild the world after a zombie apocalypse, we know who to find.

Would it have also helped to (refractive)index-match the polarizer to the LCD? ...Also, what's a good source for anti-glare film?

@@llibressal his comment literally said don't use anti glare film...

Hm... So why do you think Samsung still used VA for their flagship outdoor TV (The Terrace)?

@@radekoncar2404 It's not quite the same product as the screens sold as "digital signage". The Terrace is for "sheltered outdoor spaces". Signage must tolerate sunlight as they're used in digital kiosks and advertising.

@@Tattlebot There are "Full Sun" VA Terrace models though.

@@radekoncar2404 outdoor VA panels too.

If you don't align the panels perfectly you will get a very bad ghosting effect. Looks like a lot of trouble for something that can easily have a very poor result.

right?!?!?!?!

hes a really great real person. no hangups, baggage or other crap, just loves what he does...

And what I really like is that he doesn't speak in that annoying "youtuber" voice.

Opposite. This guy's narration delivery made me stop watching after 60 seconds.

@@mskadwa That's not true at all. Maybe his accent is hiding it from you? The fake giddiness, the forced happiness. It's an act. An act that ALL youtubers put on.

😂😂😂

😎

my vision is augmented

“Wanna watch tv tonight?” “Nah i need to rest or I might blow an eye”

I use a digital signage monitor in my basement. And even though its from 2009 I have to set the brighteness to 1% to match my other tvs

That's a great idea, the brighter the sun, the brighter the screen, genius!

No a good idea, you will need to turn reflectors or TV all the time - matching sun movement. Other light transitions solution will be tooo bulky.

@@kiyashko86 couple of cheap solar panels and a motor to make a simple solar tracker though everyone would have to move as the sun moves to follow the screen still.

That sounds pretty finicky to me, you’d probably wanna use direct sunlight so it’d be moving on you constantly and probably require a pretty massive lens and set up. But using solar panels would be cool yet pretty expensive

It already is solar powered, if you've got a roof installation...

This guy makes intersting things with many alternative suggestions.

I think getting the bubbles out is not actually that difficult. The LCD panel is quite flexible and the glue is pretty viscous. So as long as the glue doesn't harden too early due to UV light, I think you should be fine.

UV cure - That allows all the time you'd need.

Huge vacuum chamber that can fit the entire thing: Am I a joke to you?

@@renzojohn06 Could a large plastic bag or wrap and a vacuum cleaner do the job? Too much vacuum might make the LCD panel become sad and cry out its liquid crystal fluid, and that would really suck. lol

Hello there

Was just going to post that.

Rats are people too!

Hello there

There are devices called luminometers (iirc), taking measurement from it with this screen as an only light source would be a way to measure it. There are considerations of area of the light source and distance to it, but all that is just a variables in a formula.

😹

lol pal

yes

Mum*

underrated comment

@@SproutyPottedPlant ???

@@SproutyPottedPlant mom and mum are just the same word but spelled differently

He said Mum due to his accent. Wasn’t seriously correcting him.

bro using it indoor would be insane

@@t3mpYT black level would probably worse or no better than an entry level TV tho, so most likely very poor contrast performance.

@@t3mpYT def outdoor use only, with the ability to tone down those power boosters for night use... the amount of heat that thing would release inside would be crazy

@@ming19910802 yeah, didnt realise

@@smiththers2 by insane i meant like stupidly dumb

But how it looks at night is the other question. No local dimming, nothing.

It is easy to add few dimmers.

@@DenissKaskurs I think he means automatic dimming of individual areas that were meant to get darker, which were/would be controlled by the tv and now are always at 100% brightness all the time.

@@TemporalOnline it would be literally painful to use at night so the point is kinda moot ;p

you again...

yes hahaha

Sinus Neck Biffs

and thats how u overclock a tv

"Whole house water-cooling", "I water-cooled my couch"

Can't not.

Yeah that's true and you are right bro

Can not can't can not can't

@@pandupujo3917 why

you can

Wow you here?

actually a great idea

When someone tells you to touch grass in a game

SuperGT would be a great first guest lol

yeah, like there's not enough people already doing video game videos

LED + sufficient cooling would be an issue, and don't forget the power usage - there are regulations on those sorts of things.

He did say near the end that tv's of equivalent brightness can be bought for around $5,000 @ 21:15

I wonder if it'd be possible to get them bright enough to light a room with a fake window view.

skyvue has been around... other companies as well...one this size is about 7,000

I wonder how feasible it would be to use the sunlight itself as the sole lightsource.

You could also measure the brightness using a camera's light meter. Just get the exposure when pointed at something of known brightness like the smartphone displaying a white image, and then adjust the exposure to the same level when pointed at the tv displaying the same image. Then calculate the difference in stops and you'll know how many doublings to apply to the phone's nit rating.

Or maybe dim the backlight using pwm?

@@HerrFreese that'll just end up blowing out the meter when the led is on and not register on the meter when the led is off.

I thought he was going to keep the back open so the sunlight could be the back light... Wouldn't work great on cloudy days, but should be perfect for sunny days!

@Coenraad Loubser wouldn't the sunlight shining in front of the screen cancel out the brightness coming from the back, making it a dim image?

a little bit of ingenuity and copious amounts of a loo mini um.

@@coenraadloubser5768 "it's quite simple, really." -mumbo

Cool, but can't recall the last time I wanted to watch TV in my back yard on a sunny day. lmao

Definitely add extra grounding wires. Since some of the frame is held together with glue instead of direct metal on metal there might be breaks in his bonding.

It would also be nice to have the power supplies entirely internal, so that you could add some RCD/GFCI protection inside the actual device itself.

The number one thing to remember, if you are going to build this, is don't build this.

is better to use single-pane safety white glass (is clear when you viev from the side, not green) is better for the lighttransmission and the colors. I think acrylic is not ideal because of scratchproofnes, thermal problems (bundled photons emmited from the LEDs heating the surface), glass have more stability at the same thickness, Acrylic is more difficult to clean, because of scratches, is not a good idea to polisch them after out because you can get optical distortion by a not plane surface.

@@SoundfictionDj Also i think acrylic will degrade to UV exposure etc over time. I believe it yellows and gets more opaque possibly from the inside and outside

@@Hamring this plus all the things outside plotting to scratch it [personal experience not water-cooled tv related]

@@Hamring it doesn’t.

Just use a normal tv....

Furry.

Furry :D

Furry.

@@avgVar NO THAT'S NOT A GOOD THNG, VAR.

@@MAL1GNANT it is, actually.

It's like listening to rally co-drivers calls (i.e. Nicky Grist), pure bliss

Average KZfaq commenter discovers accents

@@iepineapple accents a part of it but he is very well spoken

@@SaltySalman yes That is his accent and personality

@@iepineapple this reminds me of when dream stans found out about expressing emotions

Geosynchronous has heavier regulation than other orbits, but seeing how light of a rocket (maybe with a balloon as a first stage) that you can launch a "stamp satellite" with would certainly be interesting. Would need to work with some HAMs and some major rocketry hobbyists though.

;D Naaah; That would be too easy! A manned mission to Mars maybe?

Yeah the cheapest, worst, white LEDs are blue LED with yellow phosphor. Looked at through a spectroscope you're gonna get just that, yellow + blue. So anything, say, red, isn't gonna show up. Or in practice might show up looking really weird if cheap LED lighting is all you have. It's like the way cars all look the wrong colour under the yellow sodium lights they have in car parks late at night. You can't tell the real colour cos the right aspects of the spectrum aren't present. Cheap LED lights are as bad. A _good_ way would be to use phosphors that emit every colour, red, yellow, orange, green, and ideally the colours in between. Indeed you could use red and green LEDs (and indeed there are other colours available, true orange and yellow, and now even cyan and purple, all true colours, not a mix). Use the best mix of LEDs and mix of phosphors to fill in as much of the visible spectrum as possible. Hopefull this can be automated in practice and made cheap and normal. Then things like art will look their best, as will everything else. People's faces. There are great artists, who, as they aged, developed cataracts and saw colours differently, and so the paintings from their later life are differently coloured cos that's what they saw, they knew no better. But yeah so far Chinese factories and Western megastores seem happy to churn out the most garbage for the lowesr price, so we're all gonna be effectively colour blind at night from now on, enjoy that. Other light sources, like fluorescent tubes, didn't give a full spectrum. Ironically, the old incandescent lights, where a tungsten wire gets white-hot, give a very pure and complete spectrum. As indeed does the Sun. Candles and oil lamps, I think are quite yellow, though don't have a lot of experience with them in person. The colour you see on TV, too, is very limited by the technology of the day. In early colour TV it was all standardised and graphs were drawn.

That's a great point. The sub-pixel filters in an LCD only filters a very narrow wavelength spectrum, and so all other parts of the spectrum are just absorbed and wasted as heat instead. So as you said, having high-CRI LED's are a bit of a waste. After thought: Would that in turn mean that the sub-pixels in an OLED display emit a single wavelength?

I'm sure that can be tweaked in software in the GPU driver. This would be something you actually want to use a professional callibration thing for best results. If he used a ~5000k light it probably looks fine

@@ichbinein123 they’re LEDs, so yes, oleds typically emit in fairly narrow frequency bands. Edit: this is not true of oled TVs. Sorry!

Depends on the OLED. LG's OLED TVs are W-OLED, meaning all of the subpixels are white with color filters on top.

Lol, you propably dont watch a lot of LTT, otherwise u knew its false. But I also like DIY Perks a lot, lets see if he also does house water cooling anytime soon

@@LinuxDog I said it exactly because I watch all of them and know it to be true. Tell me ONE thing they made that is not full on jank. The last PC in a desk is probably the least jank, but a far cry from the work done by DIY Perks.

@@hansdampf2776 why do you think its a competition? your mind so small that you cant comprehend one thing being successful without another having to lose something? that sort of thinking just makes you look pathetic and weak; a scared little boy who cant feel like a man without talking shit about another team.

You are under the impression LTT is a DIY/tech channel, while in reality it is an advertisement channel with superficial tech veneer. Seriously, watch any of its videos, they are all just fancy 20 min ads.

@@viniciusbonatto3943 thats not true, there are showcase videos which are completly in favour of the product but pretty much every other video is only sponsored, so it is content for viewers with ads in it.

how can you tell? you're watching this, i would assume, through a phone. you can't see the real picture quality.

@@GraveUypo somebody must be fun a t parties

@Repent I wonder what these accounts gain from posting religious bullshit everywhere

If there was software that could do it, it would be great, unfortunately that much zones, with such tight latency, I cannot se how.

@@YOEL_44 would need an FPGA

@@TheBackyardChemist do you? even at 240 hz it's just 1400 outputs being controlled, so 240 * 1400 = 336000 control bits being output per second, or 41 kilobytes / sec. Seems like a normal microcontroller could do it. But getting the hdmi IN is the problem. I don't know if any inexpensive capture cards actually have very low latency, but I believe the PCIe ones do. So you could do this on a normal computer, essentially.

@@cheater00 To really use the dimming zones optimally you can't just modify the backlights while keeping the LCD matrix as-is - you need to process the input video (at up to 4K for a TV like this one) and split it into a high frequency and low frequency component to send out to the LCD and the LED backlight simultaneously. There's a good amount of processing involved and _ideally_ you'd want to do it at less than about 16ms for each incoming 4K frame.

@@KillahMate so you want to do it on a PC anyways.

Maybe wearing pol filter glasses could minimize it.

You need Money and Time, rest comes along with them naturally.

And you can also connect 4 of these dirt cheap used 12V server PSUs in series to get 48V.

@@MrZetor Depends on the model. Most have the negative bonded to ground, which means connecting them in series would simply dead short the outputs through the mains earth. I know, because I'v tried series connecting server PSUs before, and it goes bang.

​@@theLuigiFan0007Productions "Most have the negative bonded to ground" - Are you sure about this? I've dealt with used server PSUs quite a bit, and have _never_ sen a model that did NOT have both the AC ground and the DC negative connected to the chassis (earth). I don't know about 'Chinesium', though, my experience is only with HQ units that were 200-600USD when new. But yes, obviously you have to remove the DC output grounding from all but the 1st series-connected PSUs. At least so far, I have never seen any model that used PCB traces between the AC ground and the DC negative (which would be mildly annoying to cut). Instead, they all seem to either have the DC negative connected via a cable to one of the screws holding the chassis together, just like with the AC ground, or, more commonly, the screws and risers mounting the PCB to the chassis just pinching the PCB DC- plane in a couple of screw holes. The cable is easy to detach (or cut), and the direct screw grounding can be isolated with nylon screws, washers and risers. Both very simple modifications.

Afik, 48 volts is pretty common for servers as well. Used for rack level power supply schemes.

@@martylawson1638 Isn't that the input side though? They'll still output the regular PC voltages, 12V, 5V, 3,3V...

It’s probably a DIY grill

I mean, he /did/ say he was trying to keep costs down!

It makes perfect sense when you realize the grill is made of aluminumimium

That is Matt alright!

Generally a good practice to hold the power button on electronics after unplugging to ensure it's not still charged

@@PostLagone I don't understand what you mean, can you elaborate it a bit further??

@@taherpatrawala_ so like, when I work on my PC, after I turn the PSU off and unplug it, I hold the power button for a few seconds to discharge it. Sometimes LEDs flash, it's pretty neat!

by "on a whim", do you mean intentionally? I've taken apart many TVs and haven't encountered sparks or a shock. I also avoid touching the capacitors. Should I be safe as long as I stay away from them?

@@jsh281 yes, I mean intentionally. I normally wouldn't, since I expect most consumer electronics have a some sort of shunt resistor to dissipate charge, but I guess I was wrong. From what little I understand, it's apparently recommended to use a thick, conductive piece of metal, held in one hand, with your other hand and both feet *not* touching ground, and using the metal to bridge the two leads of each capacitor on a board, so that if you accidentally brush it, it won't shock you. I think this works best if the piece of metal you're using has an insulated handle, and is also grounded (e.g. a screw driver with a grounded ESD strap on it). But I'm not a technician, especially not a monitor technician, and not even an electronics hobbiest. But I can repeat what a monitor technician told me: "never take one apart yourself."

That thought came through my mind as well!

When I started watching the video, I thought this is what it's about... But I imagine it to be quite difficult (or basivally impossible) to get even lighting out of this solution in a practical way

There exist those sun light-pipes that have LED injectors. What they do is they add LED light when the sun get into cowds. The most impressive thing is that they ad with the same CRI and light temperature as the sun is. They are attacked to a solar light collector with tracking mirrors, it looks sort of like a shallow box. Downside, they are rather expensive.

Using sunlight would not only save power and cooling, but also would make it automatically adaptive to the lighting conditions. Some sort of "periscope" and maybe some (fresnel) lenses to increase the amount of light. Would have been helpful, that sunlight is parallel. But sunlight is split in direkt rays of longer wave lengths and shorter wavelengths (blue) is scattered and comes from everywhere. That would probably mess up the colors a lot.

It'd be better to just hook up a solar panel on top of this TV as a shade and use a voltage regulator to control the back-light's brightness so on a sunny day, the shade could keep the screen visible and provide added power to the TV.

For domestic use does not make sense to go this bright. TVs created for commercial purposes are visible easily in a sunny day.

Honestly I wonder if you want to watch tv when really bright outside

@@dtibor5903 honestly building a tv that just doesn't shit the bed is fine.

its very likely the lcd layer wont last long with so much light passing through it

@@cj09beira if it's kept cool it really won't matter, LCD projectors deal with the same thing and as long as the panel doesn't get hot it really doesn't affect it.

No problems. Sunglasses

There's no night with this TV. It's always daylights

even if we don't build it, it's good prerequisite knowledge to have that can be applied to other stuff