00

Y

yup

True. Ordinary snow also forms a 'quilt', holding temps at around 32F which is why burying your water jug in snow when camping helps keep it fluid. Upside down keeps the ice film in the jug forming away from the cap so you can still drink it in the morning without fighting with the cap just to get the jug open. It's also how homes can be built with ice blocks in the arctic circle.

Wow totally wonderful show!

​@dandeleona4760 if it snows too early here in the Arctic, the sea ice won't free,e thick enough to carry vehicles (snow machines). This can delay the natives ability to get to where the caribou are for subsistence hunting.

who was she praying to? Did not really understand her prayer.

It was a blessing.

I also cried during the blessing

Not really but sure

Easier said than done, because there is a lot going on in forests.

What does that entail?

True i have done the same thing with my plants they are healthy ♥️♥️♥️

This the most bro science comment right here. Not that easy

That is true, but the foliar feeding isn't as effective as a root feeding, you can think of it as rubbing nutrients on your skin as opposed to eating it directly, your body is going to process it better and faster if it is consumed

You can work anaerobic compost back to aerobic compost and it’s fine to use

Hows the compost nowadays Joe? You seem like you were very hungry for knowledge, and I bet you figured out some cool stuff! You should update the comment. 🇨🇦👊🏻🍁♻️🍁🙏

@@BigWesLawns sure I live in the city and I'm hoping to get out on an acreage or farm soon. But it can be a struggle. So I haven't managed to ever do a compost but I believe composting is one of the most important things we can do. I've been worm farming in my house for the last several months but I just have an off the shelf worm bin and it feels like not enough worms were a family of 7 and we can throw maybe 10 to 15 percent of our food scraps into the bin and that's maybe too much for the worms still but im hopeful worm farming is neat because the compost they turn out is immediately good for your soil/garden I recently watched a john kohler presentation where he went to a worm farm and learned what they incorporate into their worm bins because he uses worm compost on his plants and he did an experiment with two types and the one type gave him double growth on his harvest. So it's interesting to me how tweaking and refining aspects of composts can make a big difference to end results

Also I'm canadian too so that's fun

​@@hehay10 I heard somewhere that the worms will eventually reproduce enough to take on all the food they're being given. But I think it takes a little while for them to get adjusted and start breeding. As long as it's moist and within the right temperature ranges. Also they have to be the right worms. I was going to dig up some earth worms to throw in my very poorly constructed compost pile but then I read they need special worms. So I just built the pile to be connected to the soil and hopefully it will attract the right type on its own. Thanks for replying with an update! It's always nice to hear back from people on older comments. Good luck with everything!

That stuff is worth more than gold no wonder they take it out

NADEP uses the same principles as common composting, that is a great method as well

The only reason not to use tap water is because of chlorine from what I've heard. If you double filter your water, that's rarely a problem, in my experience. If your pile is composting then obviously there is adequate bacteria. Maybe there would be more, initially, with rainwater, or distilled water, but you'd need to have quite a bit of chlorine on your water to sterilize your soil. Just leaving water stand in an open bucket will evaporate almost all the chlorine in 24 hours anyway.

Microbes (bacteria etc) love sugars. Think of baking, brewing or wild yeast, that grows best with food (sugars) and warmth. Starch converts into sugars - which is why starch in corn will work for feeding microbes...although i'd stay away from using corn as a source of starch, as so much corn is genetically engineered these days. There are numerous other things you could use. Many veges will have high levels of starch/sugars. Even leafy green plants can have some sweetness to them. Fruit is clearly a good one, as many fruits provide large amounts of sugars/starches. By adding any of the above, you will also be adding minerals & micro-nutrients. Obviously, different balances of minerals & nutrients and different amounts of minerals & nutrients, are contained in different plants - so if you can tailor it to suit the nutrient requirements of the specific plants if necessary. If you're not so focused on multiplying microbes and just need to change the ph quickly, then making a simple cider vinegar is a great way to increase acidity in the soil and add minerals & micro-nutrients, with much of it already being in a bio-available form. Directly composting sugars/starches as mentioned, will also pass through a 'alcohol' stage and into a 'vinegar' stage' also increasing acidity of the soil and will provide sugars/starches to the local soil microbes prior to that, whereas cider vinegar has already converted the starch into sugar, the sugar into alcohols/other volatiles and then into vinegar, which if added at that stage, doesn't really have any sugars for the bacteria to feed on. One of the most important things seems to be: What kinds of microbes are you feeding? Some are beneficial, some are not. That also depends on the plant, stage of growth, soil ph etc. I've used store bought 'organic compost' before, where all the plants grown in it experienced 'damping off' and had dramatically decreased growth rates and root development. Many were completely wiped out! And I suspect the water didn't help, as it's quite alkaline these days and contains alkali metals which can stunt growth and lead to plants being overcome by microbes, as the 'plant circulation' is essentially blocked. It seems that all countries are being sprayed with alkali metals (and other stuff) from geoengineering/weather modification/solar radiation management programs etc...whatever you want to call it - It's happening and it effects all life. The biggest challenge is overcoming that... it's not easy to clean the soils of alkali metal...even if you get close to neutral ph and metals precipitate (as solids), they may not be absorbed as quickly by plants, but it's still in the soil and is an absolute nightmare to remove. And guess what... They developed/are developing GMO's such as 'aluminum tolerant sorghum' - which will survive and thrive in toxic conditions where many organic plants would wither away. The metals that those GMO plants absorb, are then transferred to whoever eats the plant, or are transferred into the soil in compost. Long story short - they're deliberately manufacturing conditions that organic plants will greatly suffer from. Whilst releasing their preconceived GMO solution, to the problem they are creating... Most people don't/won't see the connection - but it's as simple as joining the dots... And still, it's just the tip of the iceberg as they say. We're gonna have to give it all we've got, if we and other life-forms are to make it through this loud/silent war. They're replacing us all with synthetics... So it's a wise decision to look deeply into organic gardening among other things. And not a moment is to soon. Best wishes Kyle

@@Kyle-sg4rm thank you for being you!!!. Keep spitting the turth brother!

Thanks for your comment :) I'm glad someone read it - I hope it helps and/or encourages you. And yes, I will keep spitting the turth!!!

@@Kyle-sg4rm Excellent comment Kyle, thank you. You managed to make your short paragraphs very information-dense and included explanations. If you have the time, you should definitely create your own KZfaq channel. thanks again.

Could you explain in simpler terms?

@@jenniferg6818 chelation is the binding of metals by negatively charged organic molecules (in this case organic matter in the form of humic acid). A common chelating agent is EDTA. Some chelating agents prefer different metals to others and so they hold on to some tighter and make them biologically unavailable in the soil. This is important for heavy metals like Lead and Arsenic which organic matter binds very tightly and makes unavailable to plants and animals. A chelating agent like EDTA tends to prefer iron or zinc.

@@jeremymcadams7743 very interesting. Thank you.

What is EM?

So you treat it like bokashi? How do you apply it after the "pickling"? isn´t it a bit acid? Thks

So many Y-tubers always asking us to subscribe, like etc... and they get paid more $$$. then they promptly ignore us. I for one came to the video for information. As in the plant world, this should be a symbiotic relationship... you get paid, I get the information.

@@garthwunsch - Yes Sir..

Fig tree can go about 400

Shepard’s trees, dig trees, California redwoods

@@TheSamba37 That's the right depth. Even the big valley oaks in central CA have the majority of their roots in the top 3 feet of soil. Trees will send out roots as much as 2 1/2 times their height but that's horizontally, not deep.

Yea, even coast redwoods typically only go about 6 ft deep. Most large trees have lateral roots, not deep tap roots.... Also, biodynamics is basically snake oil.

Try David the good he shows you how to compost everything.

I was wondering the same thing

fermentation and our gut digestion are both aerobic processes, hence deep breeding helps you lower your gut acidity and you feed your brain directly. our muscles on the other hand have anaerobic processes.

Good point! There are even instructions on how to make an anaerobic compost by using effective microorganisms. Those composts are even being compacted on purpose. It seems to work out fine. Fermentation in my regard is superior to hot composting. Also, you do not have to turn it at all. It is less work. I did my compost that way and am very happy with the results. No bad smells at all.

You may also try korean natural farming (knf)

?

Martin Huber Hendrikus Schraven

No idea

@@hosoiarchives4858 your comment is useless

I just learned a great deal on that using sardines covered with coffee grounds! It seems very beneficial.

It's the ideal thing! Bury any organic waste and it will be reused by living beings including the plants, the problem is that animals will be attracted to them too, like dogs and raccoons and they can make a mess.

@@fenrirgg Seems the key is to cover anything burried in used coffee grounds to deter scavengers.

Fish is great for using in the garden

is this a good idea 😉😉😉 any side effects with 🐟 or 🦐 buried in your garden , or farm land

Douglas Fir is pretty vunerable to drought like the forestry guys say, but when they have formed a mature canopy its very shaded, which greatly helps in keeping the water from evaporating

Except that she said specifically California vegetables. You know, a state worh notorious for its naturally high Na content in the soil that the plants take up.

Steve Slade Thanks. I had no idea rotational grazing had benefits beyond lower feed cost. This is the first I've heard anyone suggest meat production could have a negative carbon impact. I'm a bit shocked. Thank you for the reading list.

Check out Allan Savory. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNqJaKycmOC4n2g.html

With the billions of animals raised annually for meat consumption, rotational grazing ("Make the Desert Bloom" project) would be massive carbon sink. Is it feasible over the course of five years? Probably not. But the grasslands supported billions of migratory animals on all major continents and desertification has taken their place. I believe this method could be mimicked and take a big chunk out of emissions and economically, strengthen food production. With all of that foliage thriving with its carbon-capture along with composting on the spot, it's plausibility is far greater than reversing energy demands on fossil fuels.

I especially recommend Allan Savory's TED talk "How to green the world..." and Joel Salatin (grass farmer specializing in DAILY rotation of cattle!) for more info on these revolutionary grazing methods.

Jeff Flanigan I love watching Salatin. He is hilarious in a very dry, non-challant way.

I would suggest Allen Savory as a source for this.

I can send you a playlist that covers the real details of the matter

@@tylerblack3508 It sounds like something that Allen would say, thanks. Maybe from one of his interviews?

😁

Inseperable Generation actually vibration is the reaction to the energy, and it's transferred from one element to another resulting i an energy discharge, don't overcomplicate it, and just vibration doesn't describe photosynthesis, saying sunlight is the common men language which we all should be able to understand.

There more than sunlight to friend ,there are vibrations, frequencies , Connections that we have no idea of and knowledge of everything in this universe is connected in ways we don't know of and realize.

Perhaps the 'success' element is in both, while both take exclusive credit for success. We probably need to throw out a wider intellectual net to explain things accurately.

@@dandeleona4760 Agreed 👍

No expert, purely personal opinion - I think the fertiliser is meant to be a liquid feed that feeds the plants directly. Elaine Ingham’s methods are more for feeding soil biology so that they can do their work of making nutrients boo-available to the plants. Anaerobic bacteria may do a better job of breaking stuff down into a liquid mush with nutrients in a form directly available to the plant.

Soil is rich in oxygen only the first feet deep, and incrisingly anaerobic deeper down; so anaerobic microorganisms are very important to form deep healty soil. That is what Jadam does.

I don't think so. I don't use composters because I think the compost gets a great deal of beneficial bacteria from the soil and flies and larvae are common visitors of the compost pile. I have chickens so I let the little dinosaurs feast on them. If you don't have ways to use flies and larvae in your advantage, simply cover the composting material with carbon based waste such as leaves or wood chips.

signs of larvae in your compost pile is a sign your compost pile has gone anaerobic. you must start over. keep in mind when you start your pile the whole point is to keep your pile aerobic. you must turn your pile depending on the temperature of the pile.

You're right actually. I made the comment before actually finishing with the video to be honest. The thing is that the composting I engage with is mostly opportunistic: I compost what I get and I mostly get chicken manure with not so much carbon in the way. On the other hand I can't turn the pile as often as possible due to time limitations. In my experience however that doesn't seem to matter much if you're not in a hurry. a year ago I built a pile similar to the one I have now, I turned it as often as I could and after some time I just left it there. When I came back some six months afterwards the pile was home to a good amount of earthworms and the material as such had a nice moist-earth odor. What do you think? P.D.: Hablas español o de español solo tienes el nombre? XD

I'm a little frustrated because I have been trying to get the compost to heat up. Have added compost starter and blood meal and it still has not heated up. It is crawling with all kinds of life and does not smell bad but I see lots of flies and tiny white thread like worms in it. But I'm still not getting heat. It's been in a plastic tumbler that you tumble every day or so. I don't have a compost thermometer but this is such a small "pile" that a long compost thermometer seems unneccessary. I'm using a food composter. She said if it's not good compost it's not compost. I do see some leaf matter. Lots of life though. whether good or bad life. Should I stop using this composter? how do I get rid of all the flies? This compost holds together. Just thinking I'll stop using this composter I bought at Lowes.

I think that when it comes to compost size is key. The pile I'm working on now is at least a one tonner (not sure if that word exists). If you don't have a lot of material to compost, adapt the composter you have as a vermicomposter and buy a batch of composting worms. They'll do a magnificent job.

Chris Shepherd in deed, a lot of misconceptions by this lady

This is the reason ammonium nitrate is not necessary. The plant has all the nitrogen necessary from the air. Ammonium nitrate short circuits the ability of the plant to connect to the soil, this is what humic salts do. Rigorous scientific studies have show that 95% of a plants tissue comes directly from the atmosphere.

Rob Markovitch once the flowers are open

I really hope you are right because i can't be arsed to be slaving making and turning compost nonstop to fill my entire farm

absolutely, along with beneficial plants for extra nutrition, for protection for pest hunters and to attract those hunters/pollinisers

who is spreading all that compost on those ancient forests? he sure adds a lot of fungi. that guy needs to work for me lol

A true living compost is something like half living organism by weight. Most compost is rubbish. It is truly an art to do correctly. A good 18 day berkeley method, a 2 year untouched static pile, or a 6 month method involving large pvc tubes 14” apart and with 6’ woodchips/whatever else in a pallet size metal and tarp ring, with worms added, will all create true living dirt. There are more ways, but they’re used by the real wizards out there like Karl Hammer, but these others most inexperienced folk can accomplish.

@@666Necropsy ever been in a forest? See any leaves, or branches on the ground?

hendrika slaven

@@joltjumps Thank you!

@@kaykes7012 your welcome