Huh?

I had to replay that 4 times to make sure I heard that correctly 😂

@@hendricks135 😂

@@buildingwithjosh I was genuinely saying thanks for the video, as well as taking the Mick that it made my all wives happy 😄👍

@@lukehanna7440ha ha, your welcome! I was just confused at first and didn’t know how to interpret that! Glad you got it and made your “three wives happy”.

Your welcome. Good luck with your project!

It’s not as easy as you make it look Josh? Like you I am a contractor ; sub contractor to be exact (finish carpenter). In fact I tell ppl quickest way to burn down your house is to save 3 or 4 hundred bucks on an electrician ? Where DIY’s get in trouble is that box! Pulling off of a single to a double run it loose, not the right cap or size wire and bingo ! Customer used to ask can you ? And I say yes? Then one yr while re-upping my bond & license my insurance provider reminded me “you work outside your license; your not covered”? Now if I got a GC then I am ? Maybe? Anyway these little things like lighting, crown, hardware , is so easy to say “I can do that and save this”! My Dad who build customs and specs for a living used to say “Yes u can do that & remember it will look like you did it, if you can live with that then do it”! I would & hv told ppl just make a sketch and list “and” put a chk mark next to the area you really need to be careful! And keep your insurance up to date; homeowners that is!

@@zephyr1408 I appreciate your comment. And you are correct to a certain degree! But some Homeowners and DIYers do have some knowledge and some, ummm, not so much. So, only ones who are comfortable or are willing to take on the liability should try doing there own electrical. In the video, I’m just trying to show others how it’s possible to do and give good results! I’m not telling everyone that they should do it just like me, but show how I have achieved the finished outcome on my project! If one is willing to take a risk, that’s their freedom to do so and if not they should definitely hire a professional! I would always recommend hiring a professional where needed!

Thank you!!!

Thank you!

Thanks so much!

Thank you! Good luck with your new build!

Thank you

I used a Diablo steel cutting blade on a basic Skill miter saw. Not a fancy saw but a good steel cutting blade.

I folded the led Strip on the 22.5 angles, I didn’t want a gap in lighting. Hope this helps!

Sorry about the delay. I will attach it here in this comment and then I will add to the description. Good luck! www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX5FK4C?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_PBBEHN04J4CYH9P06144&fbclid=IwAR06sSWPBbcNRj-2Vx2itcpbk9HhpNq7OtE2pNWlAGjKyFFGE1h_RHdqrzY&th=1

I think the stranded wire is more flexible than solid wire. However I don’t think it really matters! I only found 18 gauge in stranded.

Love it! I’m very happy with the outcome! Only thing I would have done differently if possible is run the low volt wire ahead of time behind Sheetrock.

​@buildingwithjosh1145 I'm sold brother! I watched your video twice and it looks like the cleanest installation I've seen. Thank you for listing the products. I'm using your links. Thanks again and real nice job👌

@@BrandonLund thank you! I tried to keep it as clean as possible…I’m o.c.d. like that😂. Good-luck brother! Quality LEDs definitely make a difference!

As far as I know, I don’t know the limit on the transformation switch, I think you would be fine. I put all my lights above and below cabinets on one switch. If you are running two switches I think you would have more than enough supply. Now I did notice in the light box, these lights get warm to the touch if they are turned all the way up. From reviews I saw this is common and hasn’t been a problem. I’ve had these for a year now, without a problem. I don’t know how far you can run one continuous wire run though. I would run multiple 18/2 power supply if it was a 30’ run, or something like that. If makes sense?

It depends on what LED strip you're using and how much power it draws. What will be affected is the brightness towards the end of your wire run due to voltage drop. With a 30 foot run, you should be fine using 18 ga. You can test it first by setting it all up and checking everything. If you notice the ends are noticeably dimmer, up your wire to 16 ga.

I don’t believe the COB lights need an additional protection like the aluminum track. They should be able to be ran by themselves

From the transformer switch out there are two wires out feeding, a positive and neutral. All the positive feeds to the lights were nutted together. Also all the neutral feeds were nutted together. Hope this helps!

Thank you, appreciate the comment. Drivers probably depend on how much laid you are putting on them. Curious, are you wanting to use the existing 12 or 14 gauge wire to get power from the transformer to lights?

I was hoping to use the 3 locations controlled through one switch. I have read that cob or fcob strip leds need a constant 12v or 24v therefore cannot use a house line dimmer switch. I have seen this in other applications so I'm not sure how that works. I know it's going to be an extra cost to have seperate drivers but the control part I am unsure about for dimming and brightness ie: colour change.

Thank you very much!!

Thank you and you’re welcome! I have seen the cob led strips, funny how technology changes even in just a short time period! Honestly I would still use the channels and diffusers not because it has to have it, but I feel it looks more clean having the lights fully encased. I think it looks cleaner. Good luck with your project!

Not a dumb question at all! The transformer switch is intended for 120v, which can be 15 or 20 amp circuits. Just like a standard switch I believe. Hope this helps!

Sorry for my English 😁

That’s a great way, and easier! As long as it’s planned ahead, that can be done. Mine was after the fact the kitchen was in.

@@buildingwithjosh anyway, u did a great job. Clean and smooth result.

@@dmitrytomashuk259 thank you!

The older lights most likely are running 110 wire , so you could use the switch. However you would have to install a transformer somewhere between the switch and LED lights strips.

These are very good questions! Yes, after a time of use I noticed that the light switch does get hot at full capacity. I try and keep it not at the brightest setting to just avoid the heat, somewhere in the middle. However my wife has ran it on high for extended periods of time and everything operates fine. I tell her to not do that though 😂

@@buildingwithjosh thanks for answeringy questions. I just want to say, you did a great job. It's the cleanest installation I've found on KZfaq.

@@robloxgamer9335 thank you! I appreciate your comment!

​@@buildingwithjoshI successfully installed the lighting with the instructions you provided. Thanks! But I did have one question. How did you snap the diffuser covers into place? I could not get them to snap in

@@robloxgamer9335 that’s great, glad to to hear that this video could help! Interesting, are your diffusers covers not snapping in? To think of it, I remember they were a little difficult. In order to snap them in they had to go in evenly, flexing the center in order to accomplish this. Kind of in partially and then a full snap once both sides are partially in. I think if one side is fully in, the opposite side wouldn’t fit in.

You should be able too! I believe most led strips should be able to be soldered together. I simply just cut the plug off of the led strip off that would have went into a 110 wall outlet. Then exposed the two wires and soldered them. Hope this helps!

along with that question about color led on a switch, after soldering, will the remote yo change the colors still work? do you have any recommendations for colored led strips? also can I direct wire a led strip that that only had a plug option, just by cutting and soldering? could I connect the 18 Gauge wire directly to a 12 or 14 gauge standard 15 or 20 amp 120v outlet? if a transformer needed to be used (not at the outlet) would you have a recommendation?

Ha ha, no secret. Everything in the video shows what I did. There might be minimal dotting looking directly up, but not much. I tried to get as accurate video as possible for transparency. Yes, three leds per inch, matched with a shallow 5/16 channel, and a frosted diffuser. Everything should be listed in description. Thanks for the feedback!

They're also selling a new product that's spotless. @@buildingwithjosh

Yes, everything except the wire came from Amazon. I have links in the description!

Yes, the links are in the more info/video details on the video!

Running the wire before sheetrock is a great idea if you can! Many do run wires to each cabinet and run separate lights. The only thing I don’t like about not running a continuous light channel is that it doesn’t have a continuous light shine on the countertop.

This is a good option as well! If one doesn’t want to repair Sheetrock. I was doing the tile anyway so didn’t mind due to liking the box better! Thanks for the tip!

There should be a link the to transformer switch and all the materials in the video description.

Yes!

Thanks!

?

Wife or wives, buddy

@@jaret217 lol, did I say wives??? 😆 I definitely meant to say wife if I said wives… I don’t think I could handle wives 😂😂😂

0:13 ​@@buildingwithjosh

That is a good idea.

I disagree. I think there would be too many times you want to walk in there without the light being on

@@sk8infreek Same. I’m doing mine now and thought about doing motion activated for exactly 3 seconds before I came to the same conclusion.

I don’t see how these are yellow, just warmer lighting than the 5k.

Ha ha, depends on if we are talking about personality or not. 😆 Just one wife! That’s all I can handle. I guess I should have phrased that differently. I meant “wives” to all the husbands out there.