Thanks for the plug Steve. The name calling hurt my feelings though.

Nice update. At least we can learn as we go.

Good points on the pipe and the fire first to build the heat.

You already know this, some people don't. The more the pipe interior is scratched, the more quickly creosote will build up. Even using a regular metal stove/chimney brush. Best to use a synthetic bristle brush. Run a good hot fire once in awhile to help keep it a bit cleaner. And new to wood burning - remember - pipe is installed male end down. On regular size stove pipe - 3 sheet metal screws per section. Be careful Be safe

Thanks for the video. I use a toilet bowl brush to clean my pipes. Works great.

Keep up the great work on your wood stove at the cabin, I 'll always watch those videos.

What a lovely little respite! You did a great job! ❤

That is small, nice looking cozy cabin :)

Here is an idea, Get a "stove top heater". No power required. It is powered by heat. I have 2 that i use on my Buddy heaters. They work fantastic. Smaller fire, less wasted heat. It blows the rising heat out into the other areas of the cabin. Awesome device.

Stove is running great! Thanks for the shoutout Steve👍👍

Well done...

Excellent stove work 💯👍

Great little cabin and awesome little stove . All you need

First thing I noticed was horizontal piece not tilted up enough! Very nice cabin!

great little video, ienjoyed it.

Nice fix! I too think ya need a little smoke smell so ya know it’s a true cabin🤣 Thanks for shouting out Jeremiah the 608 man! I may have sent him to ya🤣Take care Steve!

Great video hi from the west of Ireland 🇮🇪

Great Job!!!!!i I learn some from you ,Thanks, like your video

❤❤❤❤

Need a smooth elbow, that ribbed bend really slows the air flow down. The damper needs to be on up the pipe. The stove needs a chance to draw the smoke up before being controlled. Like pumping water, ever restriction slows it down and makes back pressure. Good vid. Need to adjust the damper and draft so that just cracking the main door it will just pull a flame off a match toward the stove entrance. It's a balance of pressure. Then you have the barometric pressure outside. Clear days it's high, raises. cloudy. low it won't pull air is wet cold heavy, need to open damper more.

Nice Job, Steve! Ha Ha

Id be interested if you had a outside tee with a trap door outside if that would be easier to clean.. Wishing you the best love your set up..

The best draft is straight up through the roof, no 45’s at all.

LOL some people I tell yeah. Good video

awesome channel lol

One of the issues with a woodstove is the air supply for combustion. The air supply for combustion usually comes from inside the structure that you're heating. That air that you've already heated goes up the chimney. Naturally it's replaced by cold air from the outdoors that comes in every crack and crevice that it can. Based on information that I have from stove manufacturer, whenever possible it should have an outside source of combustion air. As far as I'm concerned two things will happen, the first thing is you won't be using your warm air for combustion and will retain more heat in the structure and you will save on the amount of wood you burn. You can throttle the fire by controlling the amount of air the stove can get. I had an occasion to debate with a person who uses a tent in cold weather. he didn't realize that the opening flap at the bottom of the tent was designed to let outside air in with a short piece of pipe to supply the stove with fresh air and not take the air out of the tent that was heated. I had to refer him to the manufacture instructions by the tent company.

Regarding the creosote build-up, restrict the wood to dry, seasoned firewood. Allow firewood to season, or dry out for at least six months (if you can), it helps it to burn completely and produce less smoke.

A tee is better than a elbow on the outside for clean out

If those changes don't fix the problem try adding sections of insulated stove pipe. This will keep the flue gases warmer so they don't condensate

I love that you are trying. Most people just complain..QUESTION- I have a 14x20 cabin/shed and I can't get warm.. what size wood heat would you recommend? I use regular space heater and electric blanket but damn the bill and unstable grinds here are horrible. . I've also been thinking on the diesel heater but am skeptical -are they reallllyy worth it??

You should look into the camp chef tent stove. It’s quite a bit larger and uses a 5” stove pipe. I use it in my tent and it’s an amazing stove for cheap too

close the door damper down, about 75%, rt before opening, creates vacuum inside stove...will draw fresh air in door. When open. Also, Wrap your chimney, about 12 inches below 1st elbow, to wall. that will help chimney warm faster, creating a draw.

How long did you run that stove to build up that much cresote? Im putting together a similar setup using 45s and a capybara woodstove and wondering how often i will have to clean the pipes.

Take the damper out and turn it around. That should help keeping an eye on where it is sitting…open/closed or in between.

in a cute little cabin like that, around here, i'd have a backup heat source if not 2. little buddy heater for emergencies if i'm not spending lots of time at the cabin. diseal heater if i'm spending days there. just cuz i hate waking up and freezing getting otu of bed.

Can you use 45 degree fittings to help with the draft instead of 90's?

Douche nozzle😂! That is now my new favorite insult. Can't wait to use it! However, in hindsight, an actual douche nozzle gets more action than me😮‍💨

I would be interested would you be able to change the 90 instead for a 45 instead that probably would help a lot

The damper handle on my woodstove doesn't stay in the position I want it, so I hung a weight on the handle. Sounds weird, but it worked...just take the weight off, adjust the damper, then replace the weight...

If you use two 45 degree angles and a small pipe between you will get better flow if that is better do the same outside two 45 degree angles and another very short pipe better flow and on top a spark arrestor so you do not lite uyourvown roof or forest !

Actually Steve, the top of the flue is supposed to be 2 foot above the highest peak of the roof as an absolute minimum. Another rule to stick by too is to burn your stove at a temperature of between 350-400 degrees also being the minimum or otherwise you'll have end up with creosote also. A stove pipe/upper stove surface temp gauge will help you monitor the temperature quite nicely They are the magnetic type so you may just have to place it on the stove top very close to the stove pipe because of the pipe being stainless. With the stove temp. gauge affixed to the stove pipe up just past the damper, oh say the next pipe section perhaps being clamped on by a couple of those rather large dryer hose type stainless clamps just might do the trick! My wood box woodstove heater, I absolutely had to burn my stove practically at 400 degrees because I was using some of the green wood along with the dried wood.

pre heat the pipe to get it to pull smoke up and out

Hello Steve, nice work🤘🏻🪵🇺🇸

Wow i have an old School 5 gal. Gas Can woodburner you would like. It will heat a 300 sqft space better than those China special's😂

I will tell you what I see that the creosote issue is. I am not an expert but this is my opinion.The creosote in your case is caused by cold smoke.Also too much stove pipe ,which cools the smoke.

With that draft open the stove should be roaring red hot.

I liked this ….

Try throwing an aluminum can in your fire once a week and see if that doesn't help with your creasel build up. I guess it turns into aluminum oxide. Or something like that and. Clean the The crystal out of the pipe

Should go straight through the roof. EVERY bend is a BIG deal for drafting. Straight pipe is best, no doubt. AND, as an extra added bonus, it is cheaper, and it is easy to flash and shingle around. In the unlikely event you should decide to remove it, its not that hard to repair the penetration, but i would leave it as is, you will re-change your mind again once winter rolls back around. Just make sure to leave at least 1” clearance from around the pipe to any combustible material (like roof sheeting, ceiling material, etc.). Thats also dinky-ass pipe, are you sure specs dont say to upsize the pipe as you get further away from the stove, especially after TWO 90 degree bends?

Never heard that one before but I’m gonna steal it and use it right after this comment ! 😎 take care Steve

Look into a diesel heater.there simpler then wood

Sheet metal over roof rafter asap. Pipe is way to close . Have a good one

What does this moonbat do in this tiny space all day??? How far a walk to the outhouse?

Very nice. You are NOT a douchenossle, LOL! Whoever wrote that comment probably is though.

amazon Camp Chef

Pipes should go over, not inside as you go up. But it may be just the way yours is designed.

u d better make a woodstove of 1 yard deep and 0,7 yard square in front .... that means u wont have to cut big logs to little pieces ..it saves lots of time ...and u can carry the heat overnight ..... speaking out of experiance ....old eastblock dweller.

Most teas taste horrible! Fruit teas are nice though. =)

Tea should be iced, coffee hot and consumed by a real man. Just sayin

I`ve never thought building a fire inside a flammable building was a good idea

Hmmm, by lighting farts?

800 degree will blow your pipe, s apart to hot 🔥

The irony of Mr. Tea Drinker claiming superior civility whilst insulting a free to watch KZfaq content creator lol.