Respirator is NEVER a bad idea. The chemicals may not be “harmful” but breathing in the particulates isn’t a good idea. I work I custom car building, we wear respirators more often than not these days. Especially when spraying anything.

Using the stepper motor in the tub made me cringe just a bit.

As someone who is about to print some external parts for a project car, this is incredibly timely. I already have a spray can of PlastDip in the workshop so that'll get first try but the brushable nature of the Bully Dip looks very promising. Thanks for the detailed comparison vid.

Wow! Now I’m wondering about _intentionally_ printing something in PVA, covering it in liner, and then dissolving the PVA to get a hollow liner object.

Quite a few months back Tom Sanderlander (?) did a test using a 50/50 mix of resin (for resin printing) and IPA and used it to coat PLA prints and hardened it with a hand UV light. I just finished testing out that concept, and resin/IPA coated 3 large cylinders for washing resin prints and I used a small UV light to cure also. And it worked, and sanding the resin mix sanded easily with a 120 grit sandpaper. A major improvement over sanding uncoated PLA. Try that for a test, a little resin goes a long way so at current resin prices it’s relatively cheap. I forgot to mention I used no brushes just a misting/spritzing bottle. The results were good with one coat and one sanding.

I’ve been looking at having my truck bed done with a rhino lining. But as I prefer diy projects, the bully liner seems like the perfect product!!!

I thoroughly enjoyed the guys melting in the oven. Plus this was a great idea

Great video as always Great project👍😀 Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀

That's interesting. I'll certainly do a bit of testing on my own, thanks for the nudge into this direction. I live near the sea and come April, May latest, I plan on going kayaking quite a bit and it looks like this could be useful in case I come up with ideas of things to print for that. Water: check. UV: check, heat: check, at least once summer approaches

The double space in the title gives me kerning shudders

As usual Michael, excellent video. You really do come up with some interesting ideas! If you want to remove, or at least reduce surface tension in water, add some soap.

I love when you say " product".

I sprayed my ute a few years ago with raptor liner love it

Seems interesting to use that bully liner for plastic annealing. You should send a can to Stefan from CNC Kitchen.

Awesome tests

I used to coat ABS parts with melted ABS in acetone. Simply pour over. Made the parts very nice looking.

Love that rugged texture. Like pro audio PA speakers! If you like that texture could try PA speaker coatings.

Plastidip is another good alternative.

Can see some good use for this as I am 3d printing some parts for my car dash. And the rubber look will fit in well.

There's a variant of Rustoleam Primer that goes on thicker straight out of a rattle can that not only hides imperfections brilliantly but you don't have to sand it if you choose not to. It's intended as a surface builder for automobiles I believe in that it can be sanded, but I've used it both ways and paint on it directly. What I really wish they had--or a more affordable version existed--is a sprayable epoxy system that's plastic safe. All the ones I know of are a two part that you can thin somewhat with airbrush thinner and apply the same way. The airdry versions work well and add a very durable outer shell, but a base level kit (last I purchased one) was around $50 US. Duracoat and Cerakote are examples of this and come in tons of colors, though the majority of Cerakotes require an oven treatment. Duracoat is mostly airdry and if you take your time with an airbrush and clean up well afterwards, goes on beautifully and won't harden in your brush. Correction: As it's been some years since I first used Cerakote, I checked their site and surprisingly, they've moved to almost all air cure colors with only their hardcore variants requiring oven cure! Prices are much better too, with a 4 ounce kit costing $35 and going up from there.

A long term test with a Bully liner coated part left in a car (regularly parked in the sun) for a few months to see how it handles heat in real world use cases would definitely be interesting! Though I suspect we may see that anyway as part of the project car series.

Interesting video. I wet sand my parts because the outside dimensions matter to me. Didn't know about the bitumen paint so I'll give that a try next time. Currently my goto is spray on rubber or acrylic paint with spray on automotive primer.

Amazing T-shirt

Rustoleum makes a rubberized undercoating that comes in a standard spray paint can and is as easy as spray paint to use that is designed for many similar uses as the Bully Liner and in my experience works very well. Haven't had a need to try on a print but if you want to see some results I have a few cans laying around and would happily do some tests. Not sure if it would waterproof prints or not but it does have a fair bit of textured and rubbery texture. I believe they also make an actual bed liner type spray which is more heat/UV resistant.

It is pronounced : bit-too-men and the painting method of painting you used for the final coat id called "stippling". Very helpful to see this video.

thats a great idea. thank you

It's not surface tension that was the problem with the boats, but buoyancy. The weight added to the displacement and pushed the boats lower, increasing the pressure of the water at the openings and allowing it to flow in.

The stippled Bully liner models look a lot like cast iron done in sand moulds, it's a really nice effect on the fox and little guy.

Try Flex Seal next, I hear it works great on boats :)

My only wish for this video is that you had covered how well acrylic paint sticks to the product, but otherwise great video!

Thank you for doing a video on this awesome product ! It's actually AU$50 with a Supercheap Auto members card

Great video. I know you don't like sanding, but I might suggest you break the edges juste a bit to allow the finish to stick. It is a very sharp edge it to stick to. It is something we have to do for any paint or varnish

Get a non-spray can of plastidip and it’ll make this process so much easier, plus there’s tons of colors to choose from.

Lesson of the day: wear gloves

Not meant to make a print prettier, but in regards of water tightness I used Titebond III Ultimate woodglue. Read about it somewhere on the internet and found it suitable for my case. I needed to make a planter with water reservoir watertight. But because it was meant for kitchen herbs I wanted it to be save and non toxic, and this glue seems to be on of those things you can see american children eat in TV shows. It's about as thick as your second run with the bitumen mixture, so it can ooze a little bit down straight walls. But it worked quite fine and the planters are in use for about 6 months. In regards of looks, I painted the internal walls from the planters, so they still look nice on the outside. On the inside it was mostly clear after drying, but a little bit hard to tell because i used ivory colored filament. You can see some "dirt" marks though on the inside, depending on how thick the coating was. So it definatly should not be used to make a print pretty unless you plan on painting it afterwards.

I print with cheap "PLA" (e-sun) that has quite some ABS in it. Then, I apply thin coat of ABS dissolved in acetone - it integrates into the part, seals and makes the part quite stronger - the combination of stiff PLA and "soft" ABS is quite interesting. Worth to test, but be aware - only works on PLAs with sufficient amount of ABS in it.

I've used that FlexSeal spray on liner, works well if you want a textured finish but it is also pricey but i think still cheaper than the Bully liner.

This is an awesome find and great application technic. Could you hold the boat shells to a very bright sharp light source ( Phone flashlight etc ) and check for the light blocking ability of the Bully Liner please? I have a prototype assignment that needs light blocking coverage and this technique is going to be great for finishing the product in two ways.

There is also a petrol proof fuel tank liner, but I think you have to get it from speed shops like Rocket. I use bitumen paint to block holes in my tin roof, and without thinning it's still a little bit runny.

Great video. I love it when you cover these topics and in such a simple and practical way. But can I also ask to anybody out there: More so than a rubber or bitumin based coating, is there also any equivalent product based on silicone instead? Because silicone has better properties for certain applications. One obvious example is stuff like mould making. But speaking for myself here... protecting polycarbonate 3d prints. Because PC can widthstand higher temperatures of up to 140c. The reason we need to protect the polycarbonate (in specific) is because it is so brittle it develops micro cracks around local higher stress points. But also at the same time because PC degrades and fails in the presence of lubricating oils and other types of chemicals. Because PC has poor chemical resistance. So if anyone out there can suggest silicone based equivalent(s) . That is a low viscocity to apply, but then dries or cures to be very hard / tough and exceptionally durable. Must be neutral cure silicone (oxime) based. So as not to corrode during drying. Please find that golden wonderous material... it would indeed be worth stress testing, on a polycarbonae mechanical / functional parts. And subjecting to some acid or whatever. Could also compare to this rubber truck bed liner stuff too. And see how they stack up against each other. Any suggestions welcome! Many thanks!

Bully liner is basically the same thing as spray truck bed liner but alot more expensive. You can buy spray truck bed liner for $8 and it works great for getting rid of lines but it does have a rough finish which is what I want but a lot of people don't want that.

For a cat bowl, I printed, I used a clear food grade lacquer. I bought one which general purpose is also to prevent harmful substances go into the food. So, you could make a lead bowl and paint it with it and eat safely out of said bowl. But I can't say if it would be any good for your application, since it is clear, I only painted the upper side, and didn't want to hide any imperfections. Side note: Instead of painting it on you also could dip your parts. With the appropriate planning (no infill, holes into hollow parts) you also could coat the inside. ... Am still not convinced the parts would hold the shape under load, though.

Hi! My wonder coating is a product named Plastic Dip- pretty much the same stuff you have shown here. Available in a variety of colors and there are also frosted and semi gloss transparent versions.. is used extensively for Car rims..just search Plastic Dip and you will find lots of info on utube. Cheers!!

This is very timely, I was going to use truck bed liner on my 3D printed electric longboard battery case but the bottle nozzle snapped so I didnt get to test it.

IDK why but now I want to try this with Flex Seal spray

Liked for the Ayrton Senna T-shirt , but good content :)

Pro gamer moment

PlastiDip works fairly well also and I used for the dual SH72 tweezer build grips... just not so smoothly if from the bottom of the can and sort of old. I've never used the spray version and I guess that would work better. PlastiDip has nasty effusia, so make sure to use outdoors or use proper PPE. Thanks for sharing!

Seems like an interesting product, for the right application, but I would think something like XTC 3D would be more appropriate for smaller objects.

7:21 ... You could eliminate the need to wash your hands by using disposable gloves.

Since the bully liner is made from tires, does the coating feel rubbery? I've been looking for a product to coat some plastic tires with in order to give them more traction.

Could this potentially be used to smooth imperfections and sand them for cosplay pieces (more precicely, helmets)? Or do you have another suggestion for this?

The Suzuki Sierra is the GOAT

Michael, what about trying some of that Flex Seal they advertise on TV?

Your neighbors must love you..lol

You should try spraying prints with a conductive paint and then electroplating them.

With the bitumen rubber I'm curious if you could dunk a part into it, let the excess drip off and then once dry dip again. Similar to how a candle has more and more layers of wax built up on each successive dip. I'm sure it would take more time to set up if you were going to do a single part, but if many objects were to be done at once you could end up saving a decent amount of time by cutting out brushing. You mentioned that the airtight container kept things stable so a larger container of diluted bitumen could be prepared and stored for further use.

I'd love to know how the bully liner holds up, my hilux needs some more interior coating sprayed, and in the fenderwells

Would Flex Seal work with this sort of thing too?

This is a really interesting product. Now the question is : although you don't like sanding, can it be sanded, even lightly, to improve surface roughness for some uses?

Hi Michael, you mentioned a while back you might do a video on Octoprint& the BTT smart filament sensor. I have one and it works kinda but its a bit flakey, wondered how close you are to making it work.

Raptor Liner is amazing. But in this application, Bully is a better alternative.

Michael, I don't know if it's availible in Aus but I like Sayerlack 2K polyurethane coatings made by Sherwin-Williams. A base coat fills imperfections very well followed by a top coat of 100% mat in any RAL colour. Still far finer texture than you show with Bully. Only issue is you need a spray gun IMO to get a even texture. Also I think 5L is the minimum qty. unless that's just my supplier.

I use plasti dip spray .. works great!

In order to make your prints more heat resistant, you may consider trying something akin to wrapping the model with aluminum foil then putting the coating of liner (or maybe put a coat of bully liner, then the aluminum foil or similar, then a few more coats of bully liner). Aluminum foil isn't the perfect solution for complex models, but there are probably products that have the same effect as aluminum foil, maybe some paints?

Gr8 video, but wear and impact test would be have been helpful. Thinking painting under my 4b in bitumen, as it a lot cheaper, cheers

Wonder how it would act with 100 percent infill, and then fully coated with bed liner(bully coating). The design would probably stay close to exact.

Line X and Rhino Linings are other brands of this fun stuff.

You should do a video on ArchWelding!

You should have made a 4th test, with normal acryllic paint :)

I wonder if the bully liner would go through an airbrush. I'm guessing it's too thick, but if not that would make it much easier to get an even coat.

Maybe you could make a mini sand blasting box and use filer primer and smooth it with a fine grain, or that polysmooth PLA

Coudl you please test one of double extruder kits for ender 3? My layers laying on the supports are awfull so I was wandering about pla+disposable material for supports. Or maybe just a video about support interface patterns?

Would a small roller also work for application? The texture may be superior compared to the brush

I'm so early, the title is still "335 bully liner coating".

I've been using "Stop That Leak" spray by 151 for over a year now with great results, however, it, and all of the other leak sealer sprays have tripled in price since I bought mine, yay Brexit... Not. :/ The bitumen paint @ 1:1 is meant to be thin as it's typically being applied onto a porous surface, which is something PLA is not, as you've found out. :P

Much better than powder coating haha

I'm curious how well these sand, though. Like, would these be a good replacement for filler primer as a preparatory substance for post-processing?

It could be an ideal product to anneal PLA and keep its dimensional accuracy. Could you test that?

Adding a tiny bit of detergent to the thinned bitumen liner. It lets water cling to the printed part, rather than run off. The cling improves adhesion after drying. 2-3 drops per small batch of paint.

Im in the process of researching coatings for rubber grips on my sim racing wheels. I've used plast-dip in the past without success (too much rubbing on high wear areas) and Sugru for coating the grips completely with great success (albeit not very nice appearance). How does the Bully liner compare in terms of feeling/durometer, and could it be used to coat a steering wheel grip (textured or untextured)?

Have you tried a low power abrasive blaster(sand blaster)as an alternative to sanding???You could just add really fine sand in whatever paint you'd usual use.ThankQ.TkEZ>UK

I wonder if adding carbon to darken the color would have an impact on its properties.

is there a difference in adhesion between applying these on PLA, vs other filaments, like ApolloX ASA+?

Wow

I wonder if it's possible to smooth this coating? Or if there's a method to smooth it on?

Do you have a recommendation for a FDM 3d printer priced around $400 for a beginner in 2021? I'm wanting it for general use, printing things from miniatures for D&D to RC airplanes and usable parts. I'm thinking a build volume of at least 250x250x300 or larger.

Hi, I've printed some exterior light mounts for my 4x4 in Prusament PC Blend. Now after doing some research I've found out it's not the most UV resistant. Do you know if this bullyliner is safe for PC Blend and won't affect its strength? Or do you have any suggestions? Much appreciated

Do you guys not have plastidip in Australia? Seems like it would be WAY less hassle with the same results since you could just dunk the whole print and let the excess run off. I have to imagine someone has tried this already, but I just got into 3D printing so idk.

I'm not a big fan of bully used on a truck. Like rhino liner cold spray they tend to not work the best for moving heavy heavy loads. I think you might have found the best use for a cold spray yet! Move it toward 3D printing parts and reinforcing them!

If bully liner is brushed on, will it be textured of smooth?

What if they made a Hot End with a 4 sided thermoelectric cooler? Very hot on the inside & pretty cold on the outside. Then the part cooling fan would be blowing cold air on the part.

For the heat, print hollow, then fill with cement and coat with the bully?

You could try Plastidip or Poly-props Seal Prime

Ok, now I need to know how many holes you can have in the hull without it sinking (with no weight in it)

Companies are always 100% honest right? Regardless of what the packaging says, you still should be wearing a mask when you spray anything like this. Brushing it is probably fine without a mask, but do you really want to breath in tiny tire particles?

Plastidip and Flex Seal, try those.

I use aerosol chip guard for any interior parts I print. It leaves a texture but not like a bed liner does. It's also paintable.

@3:28 The car in the background looks tiny, I think there's a combination of slopes and shadowless lighting to blame :)

USA we call it Rino Coating.