Thank you! Good luck.

Yeah they are definitely not cheap but it’s pretty amazing what you can do with them. If you use it in business for things like tumblers, flasks, jewelry, or challenge coins they will pay for themselves over time but it’s an investment for sure.

I agree. It’s just what I had handy but I think matte would have been better.

Honestly I'm not sure about the max distance per material. I only ever went down for 350 passes. The deepest I got in brass was about 1.63mm. My guess is you can definitely go deeper but I haven't yet. You could also always lower the laser down a half turn or so and keep going deeper if that is what you are trying to do.

These machines can cut thin metals but they are not ideal for that purpose. For like aluminum foil yes easy, but if you want like 1mm or more it will take a long time and you may have to dial focus as it cuts. If that is your goal a small cnc mill is better for cutting metal. I have both, and for cutting I use the mill, it's way faster. Just my experience.

@@newmonengineering These lasers are way over-priced for what you get and their functionality. Unless you have a specific and profitable niche, definitely choose something else with more varied capabilities and flexibility.

It should be able to, it might take more passes then a more powerful machine but it should be able to do it.

@@BusterBeagle3D thank you for the advice. excited to try it out with my new project :)

You're welcome. The setup should be the same.

I have used fiber lasers to make molds in Aluminum for my Buster Beagle 3D MK3 injection molding machine in the past. It works well but does take some planning and tests to get it right.

@@BusterBeagle3D Sounds like a cool use case for semi-mass production

I just clicked on Jarvis and then used the settings you can see in the video. Some of the image was adjusted ivy right clicking on it and choosing adjust image. Then I pretty much used the white on black preset in that window with a few adjustments to the contrast and gamma until I was happy with the preview it shows in the window on the right.

Somewhat, yes. However when you compound that with either an out of focus or curved surface it exaggerates it.

While I didn't use it to drill holes my guess would be with enough passes you should be able to.

If you are talking about the 20W B4 they are pretty comparable, at least with the version of the 20W that I had. I think the newer 20W B4 might be in the same larger form factor as my B4 60W MOPA. Also the B4 can be handheld so if that’s important to you then go with that. Personally I would rather not have the longer hand held cord.

@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the reply and the video. It was very helpful. The Lightburn tips have helped a lot

It took about 2:30 to do the deep sides of the coin.

@@BusterBeagle3D 2hrs and 30mins I assume based on other coins I've seen ppl do and not 2m and 30s?

There is a learning curve to all lasers. Fiber lasers are no exception to this rule. Figuring out settings comes with lots of testing as well as libraries from other users that have already done the testing as good starting points.

I have not tried to cut the whole way through the brass coins but I'm guessing with enough passes and time it's possible.

Most laser engravers until recently came with no enclosure whatsoever. My first laser a few years ago didn't even have a shield on it at all, you simply had to rely on the glasses that came with the machine. This machine also comes with laser glasses as well. While it won't blind you , you still want to shore it up as much as possible to fill those top gaps. Again any enclosure is better then no enclosure.