You are very welcome. Thank you for the kind words!

No worries. Glad you liked it!

@@BusterBeagle3D what resin do you use to make your mold?

Very cool. Can’t wait to see what you have done.

Thank you. I appreciate it!

@@BusterBeagle3D what resin do you use to make your mold?

I have done that before by using washers that I had. It seemed to work pretty good.

You can find that here. studio.kzfaq.infoYb_kre3Zwz0/edit

I haven't noticed any shrinking other then the general resin shrinking I have experienced. My next test is going to be to install a heater inside the chamber to keep the temps high and hopefully prevent the shirking of the resin that is no longer getting dipped in the resin which is warmer.

@@BusterBeagle3D it's interesting and I should have probably should have said this in my initial comment, but mind actually oversizes the z by 3% its super odd tbh. I might need to just mess with the scale or maybe there is a better way to dial in z axis accuracy. I'd also like to see any info on a heater and believe you're on the right track with that idea. Youre doing great work, keep it up and Thanks for the reply 🙌

I'm using Siraya Tech Sculpt Clear. It is a high heat resin.

You can honestly do both. I have used cheap home desktop CNC machines to create molds or there are services online that you can send designs to a get one made for you. I haven't used one so I can't really recommend any specifically. If you also ask around on the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group you might be able to find someone to make one for you or at least point you in the right direction. facebook.com/groups/busterbeagle3d

There are really a lot of great options out there but I haven't been keeping up with them like I probably should. Might want to check out the Uncle Jessie KZfaq channel. I think he has reviewed quite a few of them.

@@BusterBeagle3D i understand, Thanks. yes im following his channel. I was thinking of a saturn 2 actually. one last thing. having to pay subscriptions to have these slicer programs is that something you must do. Is your unit locked to one slicer program, do you pay for slicer software? Cheers

It really depends on the complexity of the mold and the resin you used. I think the most I have used a mold so far was 75 times but it was still in good enough condition to keep using.

Be sure to check out the Crafsman channel. He was making some molds for injection molding using all kinds of different methods. kzfaq.info/love/zsjHlc0WRwZYwlinsmtM4w

Nothing in the works right now for that but it does sound interesting.

To 3D print you really would need a resin printer using a high heat resin.

Essentially you could. At the end of the day you are simply creating an STL.

Main reason is that I’m a 3D polygonal modeler by profession. I’m not a CAD modeler so Blender is closer to what I know. I’m sure you can achieve the same results in Fusion 360 but I’m not great in that software.

@@BusterBeagle3D I came through and did a very similar workflow in 360. Basically you import it as an STL, convert it to mesh, and then can perform operations on it. The primary difficulty working with it in 360 is that 360 is not well built to deal with polygonal models such as what is provided here. For example, to fill in the unused sprue gate holes, I had to recompute the polygons in the insert to be very small before I could use 360 mesh tooling to fill in holes. This is a pretty destructive operation (not really possible to go back after). Those operations, on the other hand, are pretty trivial in Blender and pretty easily reversible. The boolean operations such as creating the sprue, adding vent holes, etc. in my opinion are a bit easier in 360 since it's more built for that sort of thing. So any changes to the actual insert such as size or sprue gates I recommend to do in blender, but if you are more familiar with 360 it's definitely doable to handle it in 360, especially if you don't think you'll be messing with the insert too much. I have a modified insert I use saved in 360 that I just bring new parts into and subtract them from the insert to create new molds. EDIT: I also noticed that as of a couple months ago you made a step file available on Thingiverse in the existing Thing alongside the stl files, which is MUCH easier to work with in 360. Thanks for that.

Hello. I found that even though the clear is only to 160C it still can handle a little bit more without much trouble. It's also far easier to work with both in the keeping it properly mixed as well as much easier to cure. As far as how long it will last, that is really up to the part complexity. Resin molds are great for short runs and testing purposes but if it's something you plan on relying on then an aluminum mold would be far better. Also you have to make sure you have a draft angle to aid in part removal as well as potentially preheating the mold and sanding to make sure the mold is a smooth as possible. If you can feel the layer lines with your fingernail that is like 1000 little layers holing onto your plastic part for dear life.

@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the reply! I've only tried with the Formlabs resin for molds, so I can't compare it to the Siraya Tech. It did print at room temperature using a small Voxelab monochrome printer with moderately long cure times. The bottle had a weird shape, presumably for a Form 1 printer. At the time, it was the only one I saw rated above 200C except for a similarly priced one on a German website. I was trying to print text & a logo, which may be difficult, though I did have a draft angle. I also didn't use the aluminum holder, so the flashing was pretty bad. I didn't sand it or find a good mold release, though it would be tough to sand small lettering. Guess I'll try the Siraya Tech Sculpt next. I'm glad I can reuse parts--the Mk3 looks really good!

@@nathanbanks2354Sounds cool. I'm actually working on a project as we speak where I used a fiber laser to make a coin mold with text and very fine details in Aluminum. We'll see how it works!

I tried to get my hands on the TR00 but it was over $100 for shipping. Will wait till I see it on Amazon. I used Siraya tech clear and I like it but it does eventually form cracks. I personally had lots of issues with the ultra white but I should give it another chance one of these days.

I haven't tried that but it seems to be more of a CAD program while this is a different type of modeling package. I will have to try it out some day.

Sorry I don’t have any experience with compression molds.

@@BusterBeagle3D Ah bummer. Compression molds are a way of making carbon fiber parts relatively cheaply.

Hello. Unfortunately I don’t offer creating molds as a service.

Hello. I’m afraid that it’s not a service that I provide. Feel free to check out the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook group where I’m sure you could find someone who might be able to offer that service to you.

Hello. I have tried with these exact same models in Tinkercad and they do not work. Tinkercad runs a process when it imports a file and attempts to clean up what it considers unnecessary geometry. This leads to final result that may not be what you want. I have used it for simple building and subtraction but it doesn’t work for everything.

If you look at the "Longer Version" section of the video I do go into editing the .STL file a little bit to suit my needs.

@@BusterBeagle3D aah :) i am maya fan too ,,did not know that blender can play with stl easy like that thanks :)

It's not really a service that I provide and I don't think that it would work with this machine either. The total volume of plastic that the MK3 can shoot out at one time in 3 cubic inched. A computer tablet would be far larger.