It’s ok to comment on how you might be doing a job a bit different and as a retired mechanic of 38 years in the field I’ve learned a few tips from others in the field and appreciated these people trying to be helpful, it might have been the only thing they knew how to do right and they passed it on. It’s the person trying to belittle persons that spent their lifetime in this trade that I have no time for, and I bet Kenny feels the same I’m thinking. Even after a lifetime in the mechanical trades I was always happy to see a shop manual when working on an unfamiliar vehicle or needing torque specs on anything. I watch Kenny’s channel because I find him an affable guy and not arrogant, he actually admits to mistakes and those type people are very tough to find.

A C-Clamp is what I started with and a C-Clamp is still what I use 50 + years later ... lol.

65 yr old backyard wrencher here, been keeping my own junk running since I was 16. I for one, appreciate suggestions and use what works for me. I always clean and lube where needed. Only had one complaint on brakes, cousin's wife called, cuz was holding his chest. Dummy did not wear his seat belt, had to hit the brakes hard and ate the wheel. Not my issue, but the brakes worked great. I even warned him about his seat belt issue. Kenny here does it right. Honest guy, rare these days. Keep on Wrenching Kenny!

Been working on cars and heavy trucks for 41 years and like how you emphasize cleaning and prep and proper lubrication. Lube is life

I did my first set of front brake pads on my car a lot like this. Granted it took a lot longer because I’m a perfectionist and didn’t want to be too confident. Good to see I did it right

I have always done my own brakes the only thing i do different is loosen the bleeder so the old fluid does not go back up the line then top off the master cylinder

It's worth noting that not all pistons are going to compress with a C-clamp, many need to be twisted in. So make sure you know what type you have, otherwise you may think you have a frozen piston.

Akebono pads.

I believe that the correct kind of lube is more important than the amount, because regular bearing/chassis grease always seem to become dry and cause the pins to seize; also if the boots are not tight on the pins water probably gets in when driving in flooded areas, and cause corrosion. Silicone grease is recommended, and I feel that the boots should be replaced.

Pad channel shims - Sometimes there is a hard heat glazed brake dust crust, gunk & rust on the frame under the slide channel shims. It makes them difficult to fit & they don't bottom out properly causing the pad ears to be tight & sticky. I usually have a good scrape in there with the the pointy end of a file or something...

One thing Kenny forgot mention ,When you have badly worn pads you will need to compress the piston/s to do this take the cap off the brake fluid container under the hood/bonnet then get one of the old pads & put it in the caliper the way it came out then take the G clamp & wind it in until it bottoms out this will depress the caliper to accomodate the thickness of the new pad/s unwind the clamp & remove the old pad.Your new pad/s will now fit on a lot easier.Hope I have explained this simply enough for people who have never done abrake job .Oh & remember to put the cap back on fluid container under the hood/bonnet. Cheers everybody.

Just started watching your videos the other day, I must tell you, you’re a breath of fresh air compared to some of the other mechanics I seen on KZfaq, thanks for all you do

Anti seize on the Hub face works wonders for the next guy who has to do the work. I have no clue why people are being told not to use anti seize on wheel lugs, I have used those on wheels for almost 60 years now and I've never had a problem. Anti-seize does not keep you from being able to torque the lug to specification. It merely keeps it from seizing to the wheel lug.

My brother-in-law was over he other day, and I was showing him some acoustical equipment I am working with to help diagnose a noisy wheel bearing (Chassis Ear with wireless transmitters). He mentioned there is this one KZfaq channel he really likes with this really down to earth guy who tells it like it is. "Oh, would that be 'Wrenching with Kenny,' by chance?" "Yeah, I am pretty sure that is the guy!" I had my iPad with me on the garage, so I brought up one of the episodes and said, 'This guy, right?'" "Yep, he's the one!" So I told him that experienced as I am, having worked on cars and trucks since the early 70s, I love watching Wrenching With Kenny because he is indeed a down to earth kind of old schooler with new school experience. It is nice to see many of my own my methods I have been using over the decades reinforced or reintroduced to a wide audience by a guy who is not at all pretentious, and is not letting his fame go to his head. Anyway, I think between watching me apply audio based technology with the wireless chassis ear, plus my appreciation for Kenny and his videos, elevated me a few notches with my brother-in-law with respect to beginning to see that I am a lot more familiar with the auto repair industry than he may have realized previously. He knew I was deep into computers, but from the early 72 until the mid-80s I worked as a technician at a Ford dealership in SoCal after getting my A.S. in auto technology, and getting 3 years of heavy experience in the Army. As much as I loved working with computers and designing computer solutions, I will never regret my auto repair experiences. Now retired, it is the auto repair industry I have returned to in my ample spare time, while tinkering with our vintage Mustangs and Shelbys. Life is good. And being able to share our experiences on KZfaq, like what Kenny is also doing on his KZfaq channel makes it even more enjoyable...

You are a great teacher at explaining step-by-step how to do a great break job, thanks.

I do everything that's shown in this video but I do a few small things that that I've learned from servicing my own cars is important to longevity of the brake job. This may seem unnecessary and inconsequential if you live in Arizona,but if you live in the rust belt it's the difference between a brake job that lasts several thousand miles and fails in the winter and one that lasts for a year or more with no issues. Being proactive, I do brake maintenance annually not by mileage.

I like how you kept the original hardware. In our climate lubing under the hardware is a good idea to stop rust jacking. On my own car I fixed my brake pulsation by taking everything apart, cleaning, lubing and reassembling . A tire shop had tightened two wheel bolts to about 300 ft pounds with their silly impact and torque wrench dance...

Exactly how I compress the calipers, with a 6" c-clamp. Never had an issue. Good videos.

Would suggest you loosen the bleed nipple on the caliper pry to compressing the piston

Nice reminder to pump the brakes after replacing pads or linings. But, I have always pumped them when pushing no more than half way to the floor. Why? In older cars/trucks especially, it is possible there is some build-up of grime and residue inside the Mater Cylinder's bore that is normally past the lip of the rubber cup seals. When pumping the brakes, a full pushing of the brake pedal will run those rubber cup seals over any such grime, which could cause an otherwise avoidable leak (interior or external) to begin. The only reason to pump the brakes is to make certain any affected wheel cylinders or caliper bores are filled with brake fluid after the pads and linings are pressed up against their mating metal surfaces with the drum or rotors. Hale length pumping will accomplish that just fine. Hey, Kenney, another great video. Good, sensible approach to doing a nice brake job properly, with lots of common sense points made. I hope folks watching these videos do their work after watching your videos in order to avoid problems. Kudos....