Numbers don't lie. Thanks for sharing this. Hopefully this info will help someone

Much respect! That had to be alot of work! Greatly appreciate the data!! Thank you!

Are you auto?

@@408CIDZ Yes. N/A with mild cam & 3000 stall

@@DaveQRacing Nice!

What did you have before?

@@YellowVette04 I had the 3:15s, crazy improvement to 3:73s

@@redvette2466 that's great to know. Maybe this is in my future 🤔

​@redvette2466 how much was the parts/labor?

@@codyl.7120 ran me about $1800 for everything and had the front pump seal done while in there because those will leak it's just a matter of when not if

Agreed. It fits my driving needs perfect and probably good for most people. Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing your experience

That's a nice surprise to find lol. Are you on stock wheels and tire sizes? Wondering if a wider tire would be the answer to that. That's good that 3.42s add a nice performance bump.

@@YellowVette04 yeah stock rims and tires for now (new Nitto’s) I just put 25mm spacers all around after watching your other video and love the new look (thanks!) But yeah definitely needs help with traction and it’s pretty much stock, just vararam, cat back, and Diablo tune. It’ll spin em all the way thru first no problem. Car would be way quicker if it hooked up.

Hi, i ve blown my diff, its a 3.42 mm6, Can i change for a 3.15? I have some mods and a 3.42 seems a bit short ratio. Tks

Lol just having some fun since I always see negative comments towards auto owners.

Besides the obvious kick in the pants, how was it when just driving normal and in the highway?

@@YellowVette04 kicked my rpms up significantly. 6th gear on turnpike I wanna say I was at almost 3k rpm. Don’t hold me to that it’s been a while but yah it was alot

Figured it would be screaming. Still pretty badass combo tho lol.

@@YellowVette04 in an MN6 especially if you have a high revving cam the change to 4.10 is a must have in my opinion. I've had two MN6 C5s with 4.10s. Best bang for the buck mod you can make. Constantly overlooked by so many. If you have a cammed MN6 that makes most power over 2800rpms up to 7000 rpms the 4.10s will change driveability drastically for the better. Lots of guys get over concerned with "street manners" of a cam. If you change the gearing in the rear to 4.10s in an MN6 you raise RPMs and the car will surge less. Making drivability much more pleasant and manageable without all the clutch and throttle manipulation. Yes, even with a great tune. The 4.10s make 5th a strong pulling gear as well as 6th. The 4.10s also eliminate the dreaded exhaust drone that everyone complains about. The MN6 car will drive at about 200 to 900 higher RPMs through all the gears. So it keeps the car out of the "drone zone" at cruising speed in 6th. There is a chart available online that breaks down the rpm matrix by gear set in a C5. The MN6 in an NA car does NOT "scream" by any means with 4.10s. The MN6 should have come stock with 4.10s in my opinion. Others will likely say 3.73 or 3.90. Definitely not the 3.42s. However, if you supercharge an MN6 the 3.42 is a great gear..

@The Glamourous One 4.10s are a great gear. Around town drivability improves with this gear especially if you have a decent sized cam in the car.

Thanks for sharing your experience and setup

Good luck in your search man. You'll love the car and you'll get hooked on modding it lol.

Your Audi is a lot newer and all wheel drive

You’ve got 4 gears bro. That is why.

I haven't, but I also didn't look. That sounds like something people would be interested in knowing. It'll impact it for sure, just don't know how much

@@YellowVette04 gas mileage drop in an MN6 with 4.10s can be somewhat significant in town driving and hard driving. That's likley because guys like me are in the go pedal more. In 6th gear cruising at highway speed the gas mileage change isn't much. The 3.42s cruise at 70mph at 1500 rpms. The 4.10s cruise at 1800.

Thanks for the continued support 🤘

I've thought about it lol. I have an end goal in mind and it's similar to your setup, so I don't want to spend money twice on the same part if I can avoid it. I drive a bunch, so I'm always weary of changing something and hating it. We'll see what the future holds.

I find it super interesting that getting the best track time is all about the harmony of car parts. I feel like we often put stress on sticking the "go fast" parts on, but sometimes the right choice to a faster time is not what you'd think.

3.90s are great for a 6 speed manual. Not so much for an A4.....

All around a great ratio for sure. You dam manual guys got it good.

Window sticker is the easiest way for sure. Just incase someone doesn't have it anymore, then these are the next easiest ways. Thanks for watching and sharing

Lol more like being bored at work. Appreciate the support as always

Idk why I wasn't wearing that shirt instead lol. Maybe the next vette will be manual... maybe

Much better gear IMO than the 2.73. Thanks for watching and commenting

Being left behind... lol kidding

@@YellowVette04 maybe you should do the research and see how many base model Corvette's were the Commemorative Edition with a manual transmission. 😂🤣

@@ThatCorvetteGuy I know the last one made was an auto lol

I'll take 40% of the ad revenue for that video lol

@@YellowVette04 🤣

Thanks for watching and the continued support 🙏

Appreciate it man 🤘

You know me too well lol. I agree tho and I'm happy with the 3.15s I have now. We'll see how the future unfolds.

That does sound like a great time. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience

I do not. I haven't looked into that issue yet, but I'll take a look

@@YellowVette04. Ok. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

80, sorry about that. Thanks for watching and commenting

All fast C5s came with an auto... lol

It's worth it if you'll enjoy the car more. At least that's what I keep telling myself lol.

Thanks man.

3.42. All manuals had this code and ratio.

Dragstrip, you'll want to go with something like a 4.11 or 4.88 gears (if you're building a dedicated/predominantly Drag Car... if you search online, there's actually a company that makes a Straight Axle conversion Kit for the C5/C6 but it's pretty expensive... I'd personally never do that to mine and take away the IRS when a Corvette has some of the most amazing handling and can get even more dialed In if you invest in seriously upgraded components over factory.... I'm personally more in love with FIA/WEC LMGTE (now LMGT3) Racing which is what the Corvette was built to do so I've built mine along the parameters of the sinister C5.R GT1 LMGTE racecar but also added in what I feel Chevy should have released the car as had they offered an option above the ZO6 and made available a real C5.R supercar, only its a hybrid of an LMGTE C5.R that had a baby with a Formula Drift Corvette (and it can also destroy most down the drag strip, but it's not specifically built for that) I just feel making a C5/C6 a killer going only in a straight line is a sad waste when you can turn it into a Racing Swiss Army Knife and a formidable threat on a Circuit Track, Drift Course, and Drag Strip and to make it a versatile badass that can def hurt alot of feelings and egos at all 3 events, in that case I would stick to an upgraded Hardened 3.42 OR 3.73 Ring&Pinion... I do know that with the straight axle rear conversion kit they make, you can option that setup/kit out to be built for you with one of those Quick-Change Rear Ends so you can change out your ratio in minutes... if youre going to stay with your IFS/IRS setup and still focus on mainly drag (but this goes for any of the 3 i mentioned) i would def suggest not only upgrading your rear gears but the best way to put all that power and traction down, i would absolutely suggest going with the Pfadt Race Engineering Solid-Mount Trans Mount/Trans Brace over the rubber factory mount which is a joke in comparison as well as the Pfadt Front & Rear Racing Swaybars and the Pfadt Race Blocks (Solid Mount Pillow Block Mounts for those specific swaybars) and the ECS Trans Brace combined with the pfadt trans brace as they both work differently... those 4 mods in conjuntion with each other I promise will be your most noticeable and drastic performance upgrade to your Corvette thats not a power adder/engine mod and totally worth the $4,000 or so parts cost if youre serious about building a nastyyy Track Car... thats just my $0.02 but hey, "To each, his own" as they say right... good luck with your build!

You can put bigger wheels on the rear with a smaller side wall to keep the overall diameter pretty close to stock and not impact gearing or active handling. I went from the stock 275/40R18 to 305/30R19, so overall diameter change is minimal. A taller overall tire will make your gearing taller and shorter tire will be shorter. There's a bunch of info on the forums to help select the right size wheels and tires to keep everything working good

Yes, yes it was

That's good. I was surprised to find out that almost 60% of autos were optioned with the 3.15 gear. I would have thought it was less than 50%.

@@YellowVette04 my corvette is a basic model whit a couple options i got f45 ride suspension and now i found that my gears,3,15 ,is not bad for a convertible. Tanks to you my friend here in california i drive top lees the whether is beatyfull .

That's a sweet garage buddy. I can see that big cam giving you fits when you're not pushing it, but I bet it sounds pretty dam good lol.

@@YellowVette04 Chops like crazy...QTP cutouts stuck open lol!

@@YellowVette04 I'm blessed, and work hard, I have a cam/header 01 Speedway White/Mod Red Z06 as well... The Unicorn car..

Check your email, sent some pics..

Sick dude. I even see a nice red project car in the back 🤘

It is a 7+ hour job. Most shops are charging $90/hr now so you can figure $700 just in the labor.

@@kellygrannis8024 good to know! Thank you

Thanks for helping. I know the rear cradle needs to come out, so it's not a quick job just didn't know how long for a shop to do so that has all the right tools and knows what their doing lol.

Only manuals came with GU6 (3.42). Check the VIN to make sure the sticker on the glove box matches the car. Unless the owner auto swapped a manual car which is very uncommon. All autos came from the factory with GU2 (2.73) or G90/G92 (3.15).

@@YellowVette04 Thanks for the info, I will be sure to check it out. I was surprised to find that RPO code and was a bit confused. Thanks again.

Don't do the 273, even if it's free lol. You won't like it and it'll be slow. It sucks that your diff is broke, but keep an eye out for a 3.42 gear or call around to junk yards that may have them.

Thanks a lot , i was just to buy it , thanks god i saw your video 😎🙏🏻

You could always get your current diff rebuilt if you can't find anything. Might be cheaper and it'll come with some type of warranty from the shop.

​@@YellowVette04 and what about a 3.15 diff ? not recomended either for my M6?

With 2.73 you'll need a new case. The other gears are to big to fit into a 2.73 case. A 3.15 case can fit any gear. Thanks for watching and the question.

@@YellowVette04 I am so glad I read this😢

Same here. Much better gearing for performance than 2.73. Thanks for watching and commenting

Now you know how to confirm it 👍

This is not a sales page sir... lol kidding. I'm sure they're out there. Good luck in your search.

@@YellowVette04 i thought I was on fleabay. Sorry wrong website 😅 Good vid Dave.

I've got a 3.15 in perfect shape. Removed with around 50,000 miles.

@@milojanis4901 Well, I'm holding out for a 3:42 but I do appreciate the heads up.

@@milojanis4901 What are you looking to get out of the rear?

If you're NA and don't plan on going with any kind of boost than I'm sure it's pretty fun. My buddy has 4.10s and he loves the gears. May get old if you're on the highway a lot as well.

@@YellowVette04 I will not boost it I don't think (although I want to). Because over here (Sweden) you can't get a significantly modified car through the yearly mandatory inspection.

Haha thanks for the comment.

I appreciate the explanation. I did mention 80mph and not 60mph, so based on the math you provided the RPMs would be about the same as the gear ratio. Thanks for commenting and watching.

The VIN doesn't tell you what gears you have. The VIN only tells you make, model, engine type, year, plant and production number. Thanks for watching

@@YellowVette04 if you get the build sheet it does, which the vin will get you at a dealer. 3.42 rear in every manual vette? Yes….but the Z06 has MN12 version of this granny w/ completely different gear ratios, so that’s a lil misleadingly. 3.90s or 4.10s not bad w/ a mostly bolt on manual vette; but more power you make more useless the short gears are. My C5Z makes 718whp & ahhh….3.42s are not ideal lol, “best”’ gearing entirely dependent on what your goals/mod plans are & current power, & type of trans. 4 speed autos really blow w/ dead spots & slow shifts, I like these new 10 speeds tho, even tho not great to shift manually they chop the power up perfectly & you’re always in the right gear

You can go to the dealer or look at the RPO codes in the glove box like I said in the video. The Z06 gearing in the MN12 tranny is different, but the gears in the diff are the same in every 6 speed. You make a good point, the purpose of the car and goals play a big part in any build.

Appreciate the feedback