The like button will have to do.

Thank you 😊

@@ClaudeSac Tbh hitting the thanks button wouldn't have occurred to me if he hadn't mentioned it - and I feel indebted for this invaluable and money-saving advice so it meant I could show my appreciation in some small way! With 5.7k likes, a small percentage of donations would really add up and encourage more advice like this. A few quid is a lot less than paying someone for the info, or recalibrating or replacing a tool!

Thank you! I appreciate the donation very much! Glad you enjoyed the video!!

Sir, your a genius and I can't thank you enough ❤❤❤❤

Spot on Geoff! Always take the tension off :) thanks for watching and sharing 👍

At work, we had our torque wrenches calibrated yearly. As an experiment, I bought a really cheap one and left it wound right up for three years, it passed calibration.

@@paulhawkins6415 interesting! Thanks for sharing!

​@@paulhawkins6415 "experts" say "don't keep your magazines loaded with ammo, as it will weaken the spring". Yet militaries around the world store full loaded magazines for who knows how long.

My magazine spring began to misfeed my H&K USP .45 in less than a year of being my always loaded bedside gun. Changed the spring, problem gone. @@savage22bolt32

Explain this a little further, not quite following, thanks

​@rtg8point858 for the imperial the math is the weight ÷12 × the distance along the torque wrench.. if you go with 12 inches, the ÷ 12 × 12 nullifies itself, so the result is whatever weight you choose, that's what you set your torque wrench to.. no math involved at that point. Hope that explained it for you 😁👍🏻

@@JaneRoseDrummer Ok. That's what I thought you were saying, just wanted to be sure. Thanks

Yeah that's what a foot pound is, 1 pound at 1 foot

Good tip! You could also extend the handle with a pipe, or make your own tool to hang those weights at specific distances every time you do this. Ie. a two foot pipe with notches for the string at 12 and 18 inches, choose your weights according to the specs on the wrench. Super simple calibration every time. You also don´t need so much weight if you extend the leverage, so that might be a thing too.

Thanks for sharing your experience, great stuff :) yes, checking the full range is certainly worth doing!

Every days a school day :) thanks for watching!

Thank you! I really appreciate it :)

Yep, thanks for watching. 👍

I could not believe nobody mentioned this, until I found your comment 😂👍🏼

These clicker type wrenches are typically calibrated for the force applied exactly at the middle of the grip (and it does matter, there are a few videos explaining and clearly demonstrating this), therefore that should be the point you hang your weights from and measure the distance to. Ideally, one should test different hanging positions on the handle with different weights at both ends of the wrench's torque range, find the position that gives the most accurate results throughout the torque range and then only apply force at that exact position during normal use. Whether it's going to be the middle of the handle or closer to either end of it really depends on each specific wrench model.

Yep! I have learnt something new here! Thanks for sharing :)

Also you need to take wrench handle weight into account. So actually it is way easier to calibrate it with torque meter.

Sweet as, good work :)

Awesome! You’re very welcome :)

Awesome! It’s really simple :) glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful!

Glad you enjoyed it!

You’re welcome :)

Spot on, couldn’t agree more!

Agree...

Wrong, leave a small amount of pressure, 5 ft lbs, so the spring isn't collapsed on itself.

I see leave 5 and zero...ok, lock it or keep unlocked

​@@jeremywallace5961how does a spring collapse in on itself?

Thanks for watching :) I agree, for what we all do 5% even 10% is not a problem. Heck you could be even further out and not have any issues. If it was on a a spaceship then it’s a different ball game. This gets you very close, easy to do at home and will be far more accurate than doing it by hand :) thanks for watching!

I agree that this is a clever way for diy calibration. Although not complete. Even though the style of torque wrench you show here is common, there are a lot of different ones. And the method of adjustment also differs. Some do have the screw you show now, but also a lock screw for instance. A lot of professional wrenches also feature an adjustable scale. Typically you adjust the screw you show in the video to set max torque, and adjust the scale for minium torque. Most cheaper wrenches have a fixed scale and I would recommend calibrating for the range you use, as it will be hard to get it right all along the scale. Most professional torque wrenches are supposed to be within a 3% margin along the full scale. Typical calibration is done at 0% 60% and 100% force. It will be hard to get it to within this spec with this diy solution. But it's definitely better than not checking it at all. The 3% margin is also ludicrous if you ask me, how you hold the wrench, how you apply force, is your bolt dry or lubed, etc will have more effect on the end result the a bit bigger margin on your wrench. Bear in mind that the electronic force gauges might also not be accurate. Especially cheap models can have quite some deviation. So you might want to check the force gauge with this method before using it to calibrate. In short, good method for approximate calibration with little expense. But not suitable for critical work. Just my 2 cents as someone in the tool business, including calibrations.

The wrench handle should be horizontal; maybe it's the camera angle that makes it look like it's pointed down, which would make it require a higher torque to click off.

Thank you :)

You’re very welcome!

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it :) thanks for sharing too 👍

Yes sir you’re spot on! I think it’s important to be as accurate as we can, but also remember that even if things aren’t precision perfect - it will still be more than good enough for what we do :) you won’t snap bolts being a bit over nor will it cause an engine to fail being a bit under the specified torque. Thanks for sharing!

​@@VintageEngineRepairs Just as a follow up, if you're within 10˚ of horizontal you'll be within 2% of accuracy, which is equivalent to +/- 4mm on your length measurement. Given your string is about 4mm in diameter, that's plenty of precision. If you get out to 20˚ you're still within 7% of the calculated value, but it starts to rapidly fall off in accuracy after that.

😯 whoooeeew math does hit hard 😭

​@@daveatutubeAs the purpose is to calibrate the torque wrench, you want to do what you can to achieve max accuracy, and that does not involve having the handle at an angle.

@@VintageEngineRepairs You did not mention it, but did you weigh the rope with the weights? For that 1 or 2 % accuracy, the rope may make a difference. Not moaning, just checking/mentioning. Also, could we all say pound-foot, like Newton-meter? That's moaning ;)

You’re welcome :)

You’re welcome! :)

Super pleased you put it into practise and had the expected success :) well done!

You’re very welcome mate, thanks for watching! :)

Absolutely! You’ll get them spot on in no time :)

Yeah I agree with you, it’s negligible, as mentioned before, for what we do, it’s not going to make a difference. Most torque wrenches come with, from memory, +/- 10% accuracy. Thanks for watching and commenting, it’s always good to hear other people’s opinions and ideas :)

To eliminate the weight effect, you could turn the torque wrench sideways and apply a known force from a fish scale.

Ah, but then you'd have to add or subtract the weight of the handle depending on whether you're pushing it up or pulling it down when you're actually using it. If the bolt is vertical and the handle is rotating horizontally then no correction would be needed.

Put the wrench in the vise horizontally and run the cord over a pulley or some other low friction device to turn its path from horizontal to vertical

​@@michaelallen5505that's not true, you would be applying however much force is needed to reach the torque spec regardless

Glad you enjoyed the video! Hope it helps calibrate yours :)

Thank you!

Thank you for sharing!! Much appreciated :)

I've always assumed that was what the ring was for - It's around the centre of effort when holding the handle. - Nice to have it confirmed.👍

Spot on! Yes I got the edit backwards, but you’re right! Measure after setting the torque :) thanks for sharing!

@@VintageEngineRepairs no worries - thanks for making such a good video on a somewhat 'mystery' topic most home mechanics would benefit from watching

Thank you for the kind words and correction :)

You’re very welcome!

Thank you :)

Thanks for sharing and the kind words h

I don't think it matters where you hold it, the wrench still has the same accuracy just the force you need to apply will differ slightly but it will still click at the same nut torque force

@@stargazer7644 I use my digital torque wrench as a torque meter to test my other torque wrenches.

@@stargazer7644 It does matter where you hold and calibrate the torque wrench. You are meant to apply the force at the groove that all of these torque wrenches have. They all have them for a reason. I know that may be unexpected because a torque is a torque after all, but these click-style torque wrenches complicate things somewhat. There are actually two torques in play here: one torque at the head of the torque wrench which is wrenching on some fastener, which is what we want to measure, and another torque at the "elbow" between the head and the handle. The torque wrench actually measure the torque at the elbow, which is where the clicker is, and we use that to stand in for the torque at the head. That works fine if we calibrate things right to give us the right numbers. However, the calibration assumes a particular ratio between the handle length and head length. To gain an intuition for this, imagine a particular torque wrench that has a particular torque dialed in. In your imagination, apply a torque at the groove and make the wrench click. Now, leaving everything else exactly the same, modify the wrench to lengthen the head and shorten the handle, but let's leave the total length the same as before. Let's say the handle is now half as long as it was, which means that the elbow will now be approximately half way along the wrench. Now, apply the same torque as before. Will it click? No, it won't because the lever arm to the elbow is half as long as it was before. You will have to apply twice the force to make it click now. That shows that the ratio between the two lengths does matter. Going back to the original torque wrench now, if you apply the force at a different place, you will be changing the ratio.

​@@stargazer7644 The force from your hand should be applied at the same point that the calibration force was applied. You might as well use the groove that is put there for that purpose in every single click-style torque wrench. I know what you are saying. A torque is a torque. But that doesn't apply to click-style torque wrenches, as I explained above, because the "elbow" point, where the clicker is, is not at the same place as the "socket" point. The actual measurement point (the "elbow") is not exactly at the same place as the intended torque application point (the "socket"). For other styles of torque wrench such as a digital one or a deflecting beam one, then yes, it wouldn't matter where you hold it because the measurement point (the transducer in the digital one for instance) is at exactly the same place as the socket.

Thanks for sharing, much appreciated :) I’ll give it a go!

Yes, I noticed on your last click test by hand you probably without thinking positioned your hand right over where that band is on the handle. Cheers, great video

@@nigelthompson874 well spotted :)

Yes, typically the handle is marked for this purpose. Not just for factory calibration, but also for recalibration. Different brands use different marks, but I would expect the clear ring to be the mark in this case.

You’re welcome! :)

You’re very welcome!

Thanks for watching and sharing, it’s a great method to set and keep your torque wrenches accurate for what we use them for. It’s not perfect with the small variables, but it’s more than accurate enough and offers anyone the ability to maintain theirs without any money spent.

That’s a great idea if you have the scale, yes! I don’t have that but it would be handy! Thanks for sharing :)

Thanks Steve!

Thanks Kenny! Much appreciated mate 👍👍

Thanks Rodger mate :) much appreciated! I’m glad you enjoyed it!

You’re very welcome! Thank you :)

You’re very welcome :)

Hey, yeah that’s right, I did as you said, but the video was made up of multiple segments and it should have been put in first. Set the handle adjustment, measure and then hang. Thanks for watching and commenting!

​@@VintageEngineRepairsThis info should be pinned comment!😉

Brilliant thank you

Exactly what I was questioning!

If I were doing this, I’d just choose one of those grooves in your handle and then always use that. Find a way to measure the “proof weight” and the length as accurately as you can. Still, at the end of the day, the mechanism is only so accurate. You may get it perfectly calibrated, but then repeat the same torque application ten times and still get 1-2% difference in applied torque. Also, it’ll probably be different along the range of torques. It’d be interesting to get a digital torque gauge and then measure a bunch of settings to see how the variation looked along the range. Also, if you use the setup like in the video, you’d need to account for the weight of the torque wrench in addition to the proof mass. 😜

Yep spot on, it was an editing error, I left a pinned comment covering this! I now do this horizontally with luggage scales :)

Should I factor in the weight of the torque wrench too?

Thank you!

You’re welcome!

You put a lot of tension on the spring loading and twisting, but I do like that idea! Just not sure it’s going to be quicker.

🤣

Ah awesome! Thanks for sharing :)

You’re very welcome 👍

You’re welcome :)

You’re welcome! It’s my pleasure 👍

You’re welcome! :)

You’re welcome!!

Glad you enjoyed it!

You’re welcome :)

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome!

Haha that’s awesome, glad you enjoyed it!

Awesome! You’re very welcome :)

Haha cool :) you in Australia?

You’re welcome :) thanks for watching!

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it

You’re very welcome :)

Thank you! You’re very welcome :)

Thanks Nev!

Thank you! :) glad you enjoy my content!

You’re very welcome!!

You’re welcome!

My pleasure :)

Glad you enjoyed it and found it helpful!

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching :)

That’s awesome, great score!!

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it :)

You’re welcome :)

Absolutely :) thanks for watching!

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome :)

Awesome mate ;) glad it helped!

You’re welcome!

You’re very welcome!!

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You’re welcome, I’m glad you enjoyed it!

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You’re welcome :)

You’re welcome! :)

Awesome :)

You’re welcome!

Thanks for watching :)

You're welcome!

Thanks for watching :)

You’re welcome! :)

You’re welcome!

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Ah yes, a beam type torque wrench?

Thank you! Much appreciated :)

Awesome! Enjoy :)

You’re welcome!