In repairing avionics equipment. To find a short we sometimes put the PCB in a deep freezer until the card frost over. Then when we apply power(current limited) the short thaws first. You can take a marker and mark the bad path to the short. We let the board completely dry before further troubleshooting.

Instead of waiting 30 seconds watching a black screen. a hint is to add a powerled.. as the powerled goes to full brightness after 1 sec if code is running..

You have great determination resolving the short that way, we fix a large number of PCB's with shorts (often shorted ceramic caps), we have thermal camera's but often find voltage/current injection works better for hard shorts where little heat is generated. To diagnose a 5V short, set a lab PSU to 5V 100mA (you can increase the current but you risk damaging traces etc) then inject it into the PCB 5V rail close to the PSU input, then simply set your multimeter to mV and start probing the 5V capacitors (or other components on the 5V rail), you will notice the mV decrease as you get closer to the short, the lowest reading (usually close to 0mV) should identify the issue/component, you can also inject the 5V 100mA across the 5V rail away from the PSU input if you suspect an issue around that area.

Nice fix! Lucky the rest of the machine wasn't damaged due to the short! A thermal imaging camera would probably picked up the heating of the coil even if it's a few tenths of a degree you would've picked up on it. Yes it costs money but it can save you a lot of time fault finding, and it's great for finding cold spots during winter in your house, insulating those and avoiding cold bridges with dampness and fungus etc can save you a lot of headaches. I've also used it on my car to spot a weakness in the exhaust pipe, a brake jaw being stuck etc. that the car repair men didn't pick up on. Oh and buy low melt solder, it'll help not lifting pads as it lowers the melting temperature even more than leaded solder. I've soldered and removed 44 pin PLCCs more than 10 times from the same set of pads and there's no damage. I only needed 10mm of that stuff to remove the IC.

that was a helluva wild goose chase until you found the culprit!these amiga boards are something else sometimes..great job glenn!

Thanks for sharing Commander!

Well done my friend. I had a proud laugh at your misfortune but was still impressed with how you went about it. Super impressed with what you had planned with the contact cleaner.

There is a simpler way to localize the short circuit. Take a sensitive milliohm meter (a modern 10000 count multimeter at the 100 Ohm range will be typically enough) and measure the resistance in various points on the shorted line. The lowest resistance will indicate the culprit.

Great troubleshooting work! -Mark.

Great work finding the short great channel 👍😋

I started watching your rgb mod for G7000 videos, and now I'm down a CRG sized rabbit hole. Great stuff!

I enjoyed watching your troubleshooting 😊

IPA on shorted boards has one disadvantage - it's quite flammable as TheCod3er proved in one of his YT videos.

Seriously love your channel mate! Nice video, as always.

Thanks for the video 😄

Another great video, Glenn! Back when I was QA Mgr for T.I., we were fortunate to have both the thermal image camera & a device that allowed us to check surface mount components while in the board. I learned to start from the voltage in, the IC pins, sockets, a full board wash, and de-oxit sockets later seemed to help cut our refurb time down considerably.

The black screen delay on boot is a 3.1 ROM "feature" it expects a HDD - if you put in an IDE drive or IDE to CF or IDE to SD it will boot quicker (or use 3.0 ROMs)

your'e the man. Love your videos.

Wow, great that you fixed it. You win the tenacity award. :)

Cool to see another rev. 1a board; that's what mine is, and it also took out an accelerator connector due to the square edge! I've since chamfered mine as well.

I notticed that a cap was placed between the 10 uF next to the IDE Header, and the 22 uF behind the RF modulator, so when the two 1000 uF caps returned (?), you chose to leave it.

I’m fairly certain that there are international treaties in place that prohibit the mixing of two-part epoxy directly on your solder mat.

By the way, the power trace has burned out BEFORE the filter but not anywhere AFTER it, this can be the clue...

I tend to think the original cause of the fault was a bit of solder or a stray capacitor leg ended up in the slot. Just based on the visual inspection and the board having been recapped.

Lol aways start at the beginning lol. 😢

:D It would be VERY late on my list as well!

Thanks for the video. Thermal cameras really are too expensive. I also tried rosin atomizer, but it only leaves mess on the board and is not really useful. Other method which could be worth considering, if you can reduce problem to some smaller area, is using one of those cheap laser thermometers and check one component after another.

This happened on my PSOne and two SMD caps blew a chunk out of the board when they blew.

Very same thing happened to my TF1230 - connector pins pushed out of alignment. How you planning on fixing the board? I was told it was going to be too difficult to remove the connector on the board to replace. Cheers! Jim

Good video. I hope Honest Gamer has a trusted PSU to use with the repaired board. Did he send you the one he used?

Great video, especially chasing the fault. You can still get a deal on thermal kit, it’s only the high resolution cameras that are eye watering expensive 😮 A budget one will do the job most times, but you can also use flux resin with an ioniser to identify thermal stress on components.

I don't think you did the current limit setup properly. You should turn current limit to 0, set your voltage, short your leads, then turn the current limit up until you hit the voltage and current you expect. That's the way I do it at least. You're testing for a dead short, and if you want 5v at 100ma, you need to set your meter to 5v 100ma with a dead short (shorting the leads first). If you search up Adamant IT he has a video about voltage injection that talks about this. He's referring to modern computers with CPU's that only take 1 volt, but the theory is the same.

You can rewind choke/transformer

OK, I've paused the video at the beginning, and I've watched enough Lateral podcast highlights that I think I can figure out the reason. Obviously could be the usual capacitor or dodgy logic chip, or it could be a burnt resistor. Maybe a diode? Or perhaps you don't mean a short circuit, maybe someone has short sold it on the stock market? No, that's silly. How about short sold it on a retro forum, like they've borrowed it from someone and sold it at a higher price in the hope of finding one for cheaper and buying that to replace the one they borrowed? Or maybe I should stop trying to turn this into a game show and just watch the video to find out.

couls you not just have checked those caps while they were in the board

it isn't astually a pin on that connector its a copper trace