Just remember don’t go too big. Never more than 2 years growth and keep in mind phals don’t spread out like a orchid with rhizome and puesedobulb . And they seem to adapt better going from bark to sphagnum rather than sphagnum to bark. Also remember clear pots help you view the roots and when to water. I like to water phals just as the roots turn to greenish white/silver. But some phals like to go a bit drier and others like to stay moist ie darker green. You have to watch them. And after years of not knowing what was going on in the pot - I learned seeing those roots is good. I also believe they need ventilation than a solid pot. Yes solid pots prevent roots from growing out through the holes but is that really good. We are already taking a plant that likes to grow free and out into the open and we’re stuffing it into a pot that gives it no air no movement and can actually set up a anaerobic condition ie no air so it’s easy for bacteria and fungi to get started. Some people can do it especially those who don’t have time to pay attention. A nursery for example can manage like this but then they get plants in from a grower and they only keep it for a short time. We have all bought plants that the roots were in bad condition until we got them home got them re-potted and they had three or four months under their belts to develop new roots and start growing new leaves. Their expertise is in growing the plant to sale size and not having to worry about its long-term health and lifespan. But even many of them are going to inner pots that have air holes or raised bottoms with more airspace but then putting them in a pot a solid pot for decorative purposes. And much of taking care of orchids is your environment and time to care for them. I have grown phals well in bark in clay orchid pots.. but they had plenty of air holes and got watered a lot just because they were growing in with mounted cattleyas and Vandas and were exposed to more watering and humidity. Humidity is the key to orchids of any kind. In nature they can be in 70-80% but they have lots of breezes up in the trees. This is key factor, for example Vandas like fairly strong breezes but again their humidity is high especially in early evenings through early to mid mornings. As the sun comes out and up, the humidity will drop. We have all walked outside in mid summer in early morning like 5-6 am. And in minutes, you are dripping sweat. Our job in growing orchids, is to try to duplicate their native environment as much as possible. One way, is if you have a tiled bright bathroom with window over your shower or room to place a grow light in there, not usual and place a second shower rod in the middle of your shower/tub and hang plants (there are all kinds of hangers and if your pot is plastic you can use a wood burning tool to place holes in the sides so you can use that type of hanger,or the clip on types). And place a humidifier in there to raise the humidity to around 60% and put a small clip on fan to keep the air moving and close the door. Without a fan to keep the leaves or plant moving a bit, I wouldn’t go above 60-65%. If it’s a second bathroom and has bright light a phal could do well in there until it blooms. I would also close the heating vent in there. Always put orchids outside in the summer under shade cloth 50-70% if you can, depends on how long you get sun, from what direction, anything blocking the light, etc. They will appreciate the 80-85 degrees. Without enough light inside their leaves will become elongated.

How do you grow outside?

You are so welcome 🧡

I usually wait until after a new orchid has finished blooming before repotting, however I am concerned about the health of the orchid then I will repot it before it finishes blooming. If you are able to do it without damaging the roots much, it will likely continue blooming as if nothing has happened.

Too wet of a medium. Mix with majority of bark.

Well making money through selling orhids has a funny way of making one not care much about how the amateur grower will handle the orchid and how easy it will be to maintain. All growers have their preffered ways anyway, no need for sellers to bother, not efficient to try and please all buyers anyway, it's impossible to find one single perfect way for everyone. Making money off of care tutorials has a funny way of making one not care about how sellers care for their merchandise, but rather how easy it will be for the amateur long term to care for the orchid. Seller makes money on the spot, youtuber makes money through good advice that makes people trust them. And I think there lies the answer 😊

I had read yearly but she's saying 2 years for what she's using

I have been told that is ‘happy sap’. It indicates that the orchid is in ideal conditions

Hi, I can't tell, but in the description I have a Vanda tutorial for beginners, check it out maybe it will help :)

Yes, most orchids bloom seasonally. If it’s a Phalaenopsis, most bloom in the Spring. You’ll need to keep it cooler and drier during the winter in order to trigger Spring blooms. Specifically, stop fertilizing at the end of Nov or beginning of Dec and water less frequently through Feb. Winter nights between 55 - 60F are necessary to induce spike buds.

Yes, it will develop a new flower spike when temperatures drop at night. Before that happens, the orchid has to grow new leaves

She has a video on it. She's using moss with a top layer of bark to keep algae down

Danny is changing all of her phals to sphagnum moss as it helps with her watering schedule. Her growing environment is very dry and she needs the extra water retention properties that sphagnum provides. Additionally, it wicks up water into the pot based on her watering technique.