Those springs make it look like a 1956 sci-fi experiment. That drawbar is for a coupled B-unit.

Being Japanese that puppy could use a new Kato drive from OVR. How sweet would that be with that bulletproof gearset. Another page for the foreign chapter of the SMT manual.

I'm now 72, and received my Revell set when I was about 10. Early on I built a lot of kits (locos & cars), but never saw a Revell like that? I've built many of Varney, Mantua, and Model Die Casting (Roundhouse) locomotive kits, as well as Hobbytown.

I love how simple this locomotive is put together. I also love the paint scheme. I think the fact that it has a can motor actually helps the performance and it's basically totally sealed off from anything getting inside. Very cool!

F-unit shells swap pretty easy. I once put a Proto 2000 right on an Athearn frame with just a slight opening of the slots in the fuel tank skirt, and I had to take the glazing out of the front porthole. The Revell models I have come in two generations, the switcher initially has a square enclosed motor with a rubber band drive. Later ones and these F units have plastic frames and a drive similar to Varney or Marx with an open frame motor mounted on top of one truck, driving it via a gear and connected to the other with a driveshaft. The plastic frame on the F units is somewhat delicate, I got a deal on a set because they dropped it and it broke the frame on the engine, so that could be the reason why this drive is in that shell. That drive probably came with a fairly crude body on it, I see them every so often, made in Japan with no real brand name. The drawbar is also a giveaway, Revell would have a coupler on the rear. You'll notice the truck wheelbase doesnt' really match the body shell either. The reason for the high speed may be because that was a battery operated train.

Nice restoration Harrison, looks like you got a real speedster there! To bad I no longer have my Bachmann UP F9 from the mid 1990s anymore, would've loved to have seen those two in a race! It wasn't built for low speed or pulling power, much like this locomotive, it was built to go FAST!

I wonder if this was a repower or if Revell outsourced production of the chassis later on. Their original chassis in 1956 had a large metal motor with a multi-speed pulley (switch the belt to front or back for high or low speed running) and 4-wheel drive, then they brought out a Varney clone 8-wheel drive chassis a couple years later with a smaller Pittman style motor.

Nice job! Running great again, and it'd rival my old Tyco Turbo Train sets in speed I'd wager.

That unusual rear coupler appears to be a drawbar type usually seen on steam locos to tender. On the diesel, it most likely means there was a second unit semi-permanently coupled, like an A-B setup with B unit without a driver cab.

The motor looks like the same motor Eldon used in their 1/32 scale slot cars in the 1960s

Interesting locomotive SMT! Glad you could fix it!

Now I want to see that thing go Max/Ludicrous Speed!

Of course you can,awesome job on this old loco. 👍

Great save of this engine. At 12:20 you reversed the polarity of the motor, so it will run opposite direction. At some point you might want to check the polarity of your engines. There's a correct way to wire them, I believe that when the engine is going forward the negative polarity will be on the left side. I may have that backward, but there is a standard that you can look up. That way when you have 2 or more engines on the same track they'll run in the same direction. The shell looks to have been custom painted, you can see the outline of the decal around "Canadian Pacific". Also, you probably could easily screw a KD coupler where that drawbar is.

When I watch your videos I would love to know the life each of these locos have had prior to getting to you.

Nice loco ,have not seen any that style before, easy fix 👍

i love how it was made in japan i find Japanese and American built products to last many generations

1956 would have been the first year of Revell's model train line so 1956 could be both the year and part number. As noted it is heavily modified most likely to what a previous owner thought was a better drive or to replace a drive that went toes up. Looks like something happened with the couplers and as has been noted that's a drawbar either to replace said damaged coupler or I did similar with Athearn blue box F A B units to get a closer, more prototype unit spacing. Also those number boards may be able to light from the headlight as some Revell units were offered with a deluxe option that had light up number boards.

That is a very interesting looking loco with the drive because of the springs

With my parts bin started around 1963 we can get anything running … it’s fun challenge with some steam though..but we get get ‘em rolling

Great! Double check your wiring, I think you reversed the wires. Give that shell a soapy bath and, given the gearing, use it as your crack express engine pulling some nice CPR passenger cars!👍😊

Nice train so cool

Very Nice project!! Love that CP scheme!

Hallo. Great Video. Strange spring Drive, never Seen before. Very simple Drive . No Digital Dekoder INSIDE. No Front Light. Easy to Install a digital Dekoder by sodering in. Drive is simple and works very good. The bar on the Heck of the Lokomotive ist to Put on a Motor less B - unit with Kuppling. Greetings Clemens from Vienna Austria.

Wow Ive seen many of those old blue hobby motors from back in the early sixties, but they were usually in slot cors not locomotives - and ive NEVER seen a "spring driveshaft" drive before - but then ive never opened up a Revell Loco either

Build when quality was #1, 50's to the 70's the Japanese were hard to beat!

I really like your loco resurrection videos!

That was awesome. I think the fastest repair I have seen you do. I couldn't see, does it have lights and were they working? Happy Easter 🐣💜🐰💜🐥

When you see a date on something, it just references when the mold was designed. Being a plastic shell, this would have been in use for quite awhile. Made in Japan makes me think this was an early KATO mechanism. When you do these repairs you should really check the wheel alignment with a gauge.

You really worked your magic on this one SMT.

Great video and keep it up

great video

Wow Harrison great find grab all the Revell you can find they were not manufactured long maybe 6or8 yrs your channel is so great!! T U from PJ LI NY! Happy Easter to you and your family!

i noted, on this model, that the overhead vent fans were not merely the same plastic color as the body.

Great job Harrison.

Great job.

Always enjoy watching your repair videos. Still cannot get used to your ballistic soldering gun but thats ok.

Yes I think that locomotive is far younger than it being made supposedly in1956. It is likely a part number. I would guess it is no older than the early 1980s, late 1970s just judging from those cheap blue motor. I would change that motor to a nice modern one.

Really enjoying u repair wish could get these train sets here in India at a affordable price.

great video well done smt mainline great channel brother

I watch your video getting running again that locomotive is my age , Stone age locomotive.

Yo ur vids make my day

with some replacement steps and couplings this will be a great loco,nice one harrison.jpj

Made in Japan, serenity!

Happy easter!

Very helpful Thnx

Dang you. Thanks to you I am now the proud owner of 2 mantua 2-8-2 4073s,2 Mantua 0-6-0,1 mantua 0-4-0,and a lonely Marx 0-4-0T which I don't know if anyone of them work yet.....Found them at last weekends trainshow for $65 total. Along with a Pair of those Cheap 4-4-0 American Flyer Casey Jones engines from the modular system. I wish Helix Humpers was still around. I loved repowering these old Mantua/Tyco engines back in they day. They were some fantastic runners with an updated can motor and flywheel.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!! 🦃🦃🦃🦃👍❤️📹😃

I have no experience with model trains, but I have worked with many pieces of electrical equipment with those types of motors. They were durable and reliable, but not designed to be serviced. When they gave trouble they were replaced with a new motor. They were so common that there should be new ones still available. On another note, you may want to consider resoldering all joints on anything over ten years old. Also a soldering iron more suited to that type of work might make a good investment.

Probably an old Kato chassis and drive that has been modified. F3/7 A and B units are interchangeable from various mfg. I swap out Athearn chassis for P2K, Intermtn, MTH or Genesis

Pretty interesting engine you have and an awesome runner! I’m guessing that motor on it should last a very long time I think? Btw serenity!

That coupling system is a drawbar that would've connected to a B unit

Thank you for another great video. Also another look at another engine it is fast even if it is made in China. 😀🇨🇦

Nice

I ❤️ WATCHING YOUR VIDS THEY ARE SO COOL 😎

Hermosa locomotora saludos

Another great fix. I see you’re still using that behemoth of a soldering iron. I guess if it ain’t broke… but when it does break… Can we fix this soldering iron from the 1970’s? ;)

Cool

i take all inspiration from you :)

That looks unusual to see springs instead of drive shafts

Good looking engine. 😁😁😁🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🚚

You really ought to invest in a spool of smaller gauge rosin core solder. I'm not sure what sort of flux you are using, but if it is not made for electronics it will eventually create corrosion problems.

The classic CN (olive and yaller loco, olive and black passenger car) and CPR (wine red and grey locomotive and wine red passenger car) paint schemes were so much better than the modern equivalents. Dumb management trying to look "up to date" and forget the "squiggle" herald

Hard to tell from your video but that thing looked to be drawing quite a bit of current on only 30-40% power.

Those springs are called a slinky. Much bigger ones were sold to kids 👶 from about the 1950's onward.

You really speed ran this one haha

I don't know if this is an unpopular opinion. But, I love that paint scheme on that engine. Also, do you know any good lubricants for a cheap price? I'm trying to find something that can work with both metal and plastic as I only have two HO scale locomotives. But, have some old TOMY toy engines that I'd like to repair and I'd like to know if there are any lubricants that can work with both metal and plastic as I lost a bunch of my old items due to bad lubricant.

Load it up w/75 VC cars...bet it pulls fine!

I had a Revell New Haven F7 in my first HO train set. That is not the Revell drive mechanism! Mine had the motor mounted to the rear truck with a spur gear, transmitting power to a gear in the lower half of the truck. Then a driveshaft connecting to another one in the front truck, with worm gears powering the axles. The shell you have is Revell, but I believe the chassis is fabricated from parts of another Mfg.??

I’m early also great video keep up the good work

I have a pair of a units they were made by HobbyTown which was an early knockoff to Athearn

Video idea run all your f a and b units

Hello SMT mainline how are you feeling I never saw a spring driveshafts before that is very interesting

really is an odd locomotive, i’ve never seen any locomotive with springs used that way lol

The motor look like from tamiya's 4wd racing, no wonder it's so fast

my cp locos are 2 marx tin litho steamers, im consiering adding a diesel at some point

It looks like the coupleing system is like varney a and b units

It would be nice to find the b unit to complete the pair. Americanflyer PA1 and PB1 in 1950 and 1951 were connected with a fiber drawbar. I have never seen that drive. An interesting video, thanks.

⭐️👍⭐️

Wow, it's rocket now ;)

Nice work Harrison I really like it's paint scheme are u going to repaint it?

👍

Revell is an UK and has its own website and it is from 1940`s era

❤

Make That Engine Run You canDo it Harrison.

Strange couplers

Hello SMT mainline I Just Wanted to Say I Tested my AHM Loco Spirit of 1776 and It Ran Prefectly Just Need Basic Maintenance

i have a question for you. i have 20 locomotives from the 50s threw 70s from my grandpa that dont run anymore since the 80s before i was born. now i have the time to fix them. whats your take on graphite powder lubricant or should get what you use?

Being an older locomotive I would have replaced the wire. Not knowing how old the wire is. I no old wire breaks easy

Any reason you did not clean the loco shell why you had it off? Thanks for the video.

Pog

Did you fix your wiring? I noticed you soldered it backwards from its original wiring. Could be fun with another unit fighting each other. Also, you can replace the springs if they give you any grief. food grade tubing or putting drive shafts would make improvements if you so desire.

💯💯💯💯💯

👍🏽😃👍🏽

Hey Harrison, I dont think that is a Revell loco. The shell is, but the frame....I've never seen before. In 1956, Revell had a rubber-band drive system I have 2 loco's from them in that time frame. Here is the video for the one that belonged to my dad: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mLGHp6aUutevpac.html

where/what oil do you use for the train gears

Seller: "This loco won't run ever again" Harrison: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hMugrNacmtizlmg.html We all knew how this was going to end.

What did you end up doing with the coupler? Or did you just leave it as-is, to maybe just run on its own?

I see you still don’t use your new soldering iron.

the coupling was for an A or B unit,,,powered or not