I originally came to this channel for the Farmall but fell into the the pit of distraction otherwise known as the 5J1113 and X253 playlists. Thank you for rescuing me and getting me back on track. 😅

ran when parked! The corrosion that happens is crazy. I'm really surprised you got the float hinge screws out, usually the heads are rust-eroded away when the bowl looks that rusty. Hint for everyone: if you break a fastener in a carbureator, just stop. Many passages are not standard/common threads, so you will need to find the correct taps before proceding. Squatch has a very extensive tool set and i assume some off camera knowledge and patience with experience to proceed confidently cautious. or maybe it's luck 😅 thanks for sharing, Squatch

Glad to see someone health conscious, watching his carbs.

Your patience, observational skills and diligence saved that carburetor.

Nice rescue! I enjoy your soft touch getting out the stubborn fastners...then moving up the force/heat scale as needed. Excellent tip on the torx bit for softer materials. The venturi press tool was brilliant. One of the few times when the snapping/popping sound is the sound of success. Well done!

when the venturi stuck like that in my M's carb, I tore it down like you did. set my oven to 400 and baked mine for about a half hour. took it out, and set an ice cube on the inside of the venturi tube. that thing almost jumped out of the upper body. cleaned it up with an emery cloth and finished off the rebuild. Nice work there on that itty bitty jet. those things are a royal PITA when they go

Nail looks painful. In a pinch, burning thru your Nail with a red hot straightened paper clip will relieve the pressure. Seems crazy until you do it. I had a resulting geyser hit the ceiling 7 feet above where I was seated. The relief was immense and immediate. Learned it from an old Irish carpenter. Cheers

Nice work, Squatch You are a true craftsman in my book 👍

798th!! I do not rush into such a fine production. It pays to get your coffee made, have some quiet time and enjoy the content without interruption. Very surprised no gotchas with this one.

It's so good to see someone using the right size screwdriver! Good job.

Thanks for the video Toby! Glad to see you got everything out and can start the cleanup process before reassembling it. Can’t wait for the next video!

Toby - you may need some CRC Rust Remover - Evap O Rust! to clean the difficult to access drillings and ports in the carburetor housing.

That has got to be the most complete carb kit i have ever seen,they should all be that way instead of buying individual parts and pieces😁

What! A pair of vise grips spotted on the Squatch channel - scandalous! A few questions... -Can you fill us in on the various thread sizes within the carb? -What is your favorite unstuck juice? -Where did you get your rebuild kit from? Thanks for the great video

I would highly recommend rebuilding the old carburetor if you can or find a better core if the old one has serious issues. Some of these Ebay rebuild or new reproduction carburetors maybe a waste of money. Had a very unpleasant experience with a so called rebuild 59 Ford Fairlane carburetor years ago. After that i'm saving up all the old carburetors if I can. Even this Farmall M carburetor body looks fine despite it was full of water. Usually cast iron and water don't mix well. Glad you where able to save this one for your friend.

There was a time when I was interested only in 1113, but as I’ve been moving along on my own rebuild journey, I’ve found your other vids to be as entertaining as they are informative. Thanks for sharing the skills you have lessened over your time in the trade.

Great job on getting that carburetor apart.

I don't have an M, but I'm pretty sure the basic techniques you showed apply to my H carb. Thanks Toby.

Definitely need to get you a sonic cleaner...can dunk the whole thing in some soapy water...turn it on...and it should get in and bust loose some of the rust/corrosion and maybe help loosen up those sticky brass pieces If not...a sonic cleaner helps clean up carbs and stuff that normally would be a pain to clean Keep em coming!!!!

Nice save! (thank goodness for cast iron sometimes...) I've got a M-M carb like that around here somewhere, never been opened that I know of. Everything seems to be working. Unknown year or model. Yours if you want it, it's been a door stop around here for years.

Me: “That’s going to be difficult to remove that venturi” Squatch:”I have a tool…”. 👍

Well done! I've had great results with stuck brass jets in cast iron by simply heating the carburettor up and then quenching it in water. Immovable jets would just come out as though they had never been fully tightened.

Thanks Squatch, good watch, we’ll planned video.

Good to see a new "tool" made, for a carb no less. Your level of right and propper goes on, and still a pleasure to watch.

I have found two good ways at getting rust out of inconvenient places. Easiest is to just use evap-o-rust. Second is electrolysis. All you need is a bucket, water, washing soda, sacrificial anode, and a 12 volt battery charger. Don't have washing soda? Heat some baking soda in the oven at 350 deg for 20 minuets. Voilà! Washing soda. I used electrolysis on the bolt of an old pump action 22 that had been sitting in a leaky barn for more than 50 years and turned it from a seized, rusty lump into a functioning part, small bits included.

Only, if only, Farmall carbs were that nice to start out with. Thumbs up video! I agree with the float. I once made a video on repairing brass carburetor floats. It's super simple! ha ha

Squatch, if you don't have them grab a set of gimlets. Very useful to pull springs without the risk of scratching the sides of the housing.

I don't have any suggestions for you!? Well, maybe a couple... LoL 😅😆 Got it apart! Well done!!

Good tip with the Torx drivers.....

Thought you would have mentioned the size of drill bit used and what size of tap needed. Nice having a lathe to make special drivers too.

Master rebuild kit with no float your tractor is now a cube.

Great job on the strip down Toby, especially getting that darn broken and stuck idle jet out!! Wish this video had been out a year ago, before i started on my (identical) W6 carburettor. I managed to extract all else (with some difficulty) but sadly, I didn't 😅have the same luck as you with the idle jet and, as you mentioned in your video, the tiny easyout broke in the drilled out jet. I managed to source a used carburettor in the UK which cost a whopping £300 sterling ($370 US) but, this is where my luck changed..... for the better! Upon splitting the carburettor to do a full rebuild on her, I quickly realised I had managed to purchase an extremely lightly used new carburettor and the internals were like the day it came from the factory. Looking at the outside beforehand, I did notice only red paint on the outer faces of the unit but thought it was only a bad attempt at freshening up the paint job on an old tractor. I still have the original and, apart from the bowl, it is in great condition and would rather have kept it on the tractor, albeit with a complete rebuild kit installed (i prefer originality!), I am looking to source a 2nd hand bowl with idle jet intact if you know of any in your area? Looking forward to part 2 now!! Adam. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇬🇧

Nice work. Great video.

This use of a crescent wrench is Luke approved.

From some angles that throttle body looked just like - well, an old English Toby jug. Also, the float chamber looked somewhat like a screaming hog. At the time of writing I may have had just a little too much red wine.

I enjoy work like this!

Gotta love brass screws. Lol

I’ve redone worse. The carb on my old Ford 4000 backhoe had sat outside for several years with no air intake. The inside of the float bowl was nothing but a mass of hard flaky rust. I literally had to use a big flat blade screwdriver as a chisel to chip out the massive rust layers. Then a glass bead blaster finished cleaning it up. That carb is still running good on that old machine today.

Excellent video water is definitely not friendly to carburetor. I usually get new floats when I work on carburetors I have tried to fix them then they leak some where else. Keep up the great videos

Fantastic video Toby. That carburetor is going to be better than new once you're finished with it. Cheers

This is a great video because I can compare to the Marvel Schebler carburetors that Ford used in the N tractors and the NAA/Jubilees. I’ve rebuilt a whole bunch of those. Ford fiddled with jet sizes through the N tractor run and it pays to update to the final sizes that Ford settled on. I know that KZfaq frowns on recommending vendors so I will just say that the cheapest rebuild kits from the tractor store that stock’s everything may not have the final jet sizes so I go with vendors that specialize in Ford tractor parts. The Ford carbs use a brass Venturi so I’ve never found a stuck one. I’ve seen a few with the shaft holes for the throttle shaft drilled and bushed with brass bushings. I have a hunch that this was done if the carb was sent in for a factory authorized vendor full rebuild. They also usually attached a brass plate to the carb indicating that it was a rebuild. Finally. I have a gallon can of the carb cleaner soak overnight stuff which is really caustic. I wear goggles and gloves working with the stuff. It’s OK with cast iron and brass but it would probably dissolve the zinc Venturi in your Farmall carb. At any rate I wouldn’t chance it. I had an 8N in the shop once that was hard to start. No wonder as the main jet had been left out it ran fine, though.

I'm coming back. Glad to see the carb is rebuildable.

4:56 a trick to block them from splitting or the driver from slipping is to machine a sleeve for the driver (can be brass or steel, doesn't matter) that goes over the screw head snug fit. That way, it can't split apart and you have less chances to slip and break it. You can also make a slot in the end of that sleeve to act like an extension. The little flex these screw heads have will lock them in place, i usually put a tiny 1 mm grub screw on the side. Always pops these pesky stuck screws out.

Those brave floats fave their lives to save the bowl.

I'm here for the X231 content. Everything else is just interesting side content. Just kidding. I'd watch paint drying with Toby if he had some commentary to go with it. I still remember the daily videos he was putting out during the early days of the pandemic. I wonder how many of us he saved from the psychiatric wards by doing that.

On the version of this carburetor that is used on the 9n-2n-8n Fords, there is a special flat blade screwdriver slot on the lower housing that helps you to install the choke throttle blade. The slot is covered by the airhorn (top half of the carb) gasket. This is helpful to know because it is a fiddly little task otherwise.

Think you missed your calling Squatch 🤔 having the ability to have the class glued to their screens for a carburettor strip down 😳👍👍👌

Thank you

I've had good luck cooking carburetors in cleaner overnight. Having said that salvaging a F20 carburetor out of two was a challenge. Came down with a cold last night. If I don't survive they will need to hunt all over hell for me.

Someone said soak it in evaporust use some regular white vinegar works just as good and a lot cheaper leave in it about 12 hours and rinse

Great video as always. Just puts me in aw how can work magic to fix something. Great job .

This is all wizardry. Pure, AD&D flavoured wizardry.

This was super informative Tobie

Thanks for sharing

Ive used the torx driver trick a few times to get allen head bolts with stripped heads out, works great.

Some times if you have a left hand drill bit while drilling the broken part will back out.

A fun little project!

You may already know this ... but Brass expands about 150% as much with heat as steel or cast iron. Not to say that heat won't help, just that it may require a different strategy for using the heat than a steel fastener in steel (or cast iron)

Excellent work as usual.

Would this be a situation where an ultrasonic cleaner with Evaporust might be helpful?

I've always wondered how the manufacturers of those carburetor jets can produce such small holes given the technology of the time. I can understand today's access to lasers capable of producing such parts. Does anyone have any insight on how that was done so many decades ago?

Maestro!

The float probably saved the bowl from cracking when the water in the bowl froze.

nicely done

I'm pretty sure you can save everything but the float, and the low idle jet. ❤

My only confusion in your process was why you used a hand held drill rather than using a drill press. A good effort to keep it square to the hole with the hand held drill but I could see it move just fractionally as you drilled.

Great video...always the best

"is that a BB? No it's a steel ball" BB's *are* steel balls. BB shot for shotguns were a size of lead shot, but the BB's that you shot out of your Daisy BB gun were steel balls, usually copper plated.

🤗❤️👍

Nice job you do excellent work

Mielenkiintoinen video👍 kiitos😊

Plug pops out, its trying to run away but it forgot it doesn't have legs.

Squatch, will you rebuild my M farmall carb???? Please?

Good video

What about those new ultrasonic cleaner , have you tried clean a carburator with one of those machine. Are they just a joke or does they work?

Maybe I missed it, but what's the small brass pinhole piece that was next to the broken off idle jet? Is there ever a reason to remove or replace that?

forgot the autofocus but i liked the video anyway, good job!

Stiener’s for the float. 20 bucks

This carb looks remarkably like one I rebuilt from a forklift with a Continental flathead 6 industrial engine... a Marvel Schebler.. is that what it is, or is it a just similar?

Were the throttle plate screws staked ? There is a tool for staking the ends after installing without putting pressure on the shaft. Were those stubby easy outs that you used to remove the shaft bushings? I’m looking forward to seeing the next video!

I'm surprised about all the items included in the rebuild kit...seems like they might be a little pricey...

Do ever use left hand twist drill bits?

Did this same job to my D7C pony motor carb

If you can't find a suitable float in your inventory, "where" you got the kit has new floats for 20 bucks.

I've got a few carburetors to tackle myself. I'm a bit afraid, 😂

Thank you for the videos, Squatch! I never stop learning here. The gopros really don't focus at all on close-ups though, do they? 😑(that's me squinting).

Hey up mate sweet result and a good video shame about that finger, would be interesting to know how much the carb kit costs, guessing they are still available

Pretty straight forward, however since you had your Torx driver in the brass creating a heat sink wouldn't the heat need to be applied for a longer time, Also what is your favorite free me juice?

Im curious about the throttle plate. Are they all stamped with the number 12, or is it just stamped with a number and that indicates which side needs to be up?

Who is your source for the master carb kits?

Where do you get your rebuild kits from? I don't have an "M" but just about as old - IH industrial engine of some kind. Thanks for the videos!

If the that thread hadn’t been salvageable would that be a scrap casting or is there something like a helicoil that small?

😛😛😛😛😛😛❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

It looks like the Pioneer Power swap meet could be a wet one AGAIN. :-(

Takes apart crusty old carb with freeze damage.... still easier to work on than X231.... 🤣

😊😊😊

I've wondered for a while, where did you get your vice brass jaw guards at? Make them yourself? Or is there a supplier?

Who is the silver dog at the head of your work bench?

Who supplied your carb parts kit? My Deere carb probably needs all of that.

Ever thought of building a catch tray for that band saw?