Part 2 is now out 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pt9-ipx2vajDqnU.html

I'm an old dirt biker and I have built 3 different mid-drive e-bikes now, one with Bafang and two with TongSheng. I have a few observations based on my experience... The Bafang is a powerful motor but the power delivery is an abrupt on or off. The throttle is good for starting off from an awkward position on the trail. You can "ghost pedal" with the Bafang while cruising and it will speed along at full power without the throttle... The TongSheng is a less powerful motor but the power delivery is more natural since it is a torque sensor motor. It varies power according to the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals. The revolution counter magnet on the wheel can be left off the TongSheng to eliminate that wiring. A tiny handlebar display is optional for the TongSheng. The motor is physically smaller...I found that the "dolphin" style batteries always end up needing to be strapped down with bungies since the narrow mounting rail is just holding the center of the battery. Mounting the battery high on the frame noticeably affects the bike handling. Shorter crank arms are a good option to keep pedal strikes down, but crank discipline still needs to be learned. I get about twenty miles offroad with a 14AH battery...Have fun! E-bikes are like magic!

Just did a 750w bbs02 on an old GT hard tail.... So much fun! Nerd out rules!

I have a bafang hd motor for over 2 years now done over 14,000 miles and the motor has never skipped a beat .It just goes and goes .

Your info all together and item purchase info as well has been super helpful. Thank you. I've watched so many videos and yours has been absolutely the most informative. So informative that it gives me the confidence I needed for purchase. Bafang should pay YOU!

this was a great video - you may have approached things a bit differently than I would have but I appreciate how you explained your thought process and gave such a detailed breakdown.

This was informative for me. Really good relaxed unbiased video. Thanks.

Dude, I saw you on TFL doing their course in your 2dr Bronco MT. I got the same Badlands on 33s with the 7spd. Now here I am finding you rocking the Bafang I'm about to build myself. I'll stay tuned. Good work buddy.

Also i got my full kit from jhonnynerdout, he had a full consultation with me to see my bike and talk about what I need to order. Without Johnny i would not have my ebike. Thanks for making this vid, it would've helped when i was building mine lol!

My dad converted his old steel MTB with a mid drive Bafang kit last year. We also noticed the abrupt ‘on off’ peer delivery and didn’t how it rode. I then bought the cable and I tweaked all the settings until we were happy with it. It eliminated the jerky throttle behaviour and even improved the distance on a charge. It can reach over 30mph on the flat too!

Great content brother, subbed!

I installed a 750W Bafang on my Kona Stinky and I love it. I've taken it up some pretty steep trails here in Utah and it does great. I can go close to 30mph on flat ground, so that's fun too.

Top Tip: Add a bit of wide duck tape around the body of the motor to cover the seams where the motor body mounts to its side covers; this stops water ingress during wet weather which creeps in and ruins your day. (I have a similar conversion, hardtail old Diamond Back Ascent Ex; smaller battery and can, just, do a 40mile round trip without a recharge)

I did this to my old Cannondale a couple of years ago. One thing you can do is double the number of pedal assist levels from 5 to 10 in the settings mode on the controller. By doing that you will only get 10% power on level 1 instead of the 20% you are getting now so it will not be as abrupt when starting off. The higher levels are for climbing hills, anything over level 2 or 3 and you will be ghost pedaling on level ground.

Great Info and verry helpfull for my own Projekt (Gazelle W8)👍😊

Great video, thx 4 sharing 😁

I'm looking forward to the next video on this bike. I'm planning on doing the same to one of my bikes

I was lucky first shot mounting my BBS02 after pulling out my 20 year old bike from the shed. Also have a 52V battery. My changes are as follows: 54T front and 34/11 rear so no more ghost pedaling, yet still ok for steep hills. Also hacked the software with Luna to adapt the assist levels to my taste. This was overall a highly rewarding project and recommend it to all. (Btw, with the 52V, I get approx. 80 miles on flat roads with reasonable assist levels)

Nice review...Thanks

Man alive thank you for your plain speaking normal person way about showing this how-to. No talking down to the audience.

Been running my bafang bbso2 with a 52v 14ah battery for about 5 months now. We made her a single speed to make it unbreakable and this baby is smooth, I will always rec that people build there own. If something goes wrong, instead of filing a support ticket and being SOL for a while, you can fix the bike yourself. That most prebuilts are lacking in a category or two, where as you can get the full package if you go custom.

🎉 Happy new year! I’m thinking to buy bafang kit like you have. I already build one e-bike with hub motor and it was amazing! To be honest I’m fan of Enduro moto but in place I live now it’s forbidden to use them, so E-bike it’s only option for me. I’m waiting for your real life test, if it possible try it in the mountains ! ❤

Had my bafang bbshd for about 2.5 years now and so far I've went through 3 chains and 2 freewheels. Has alot of power. I weigh about 230 bije weight with everything is about 80 pounds, and I can easily hit about 34 to 37 mph. Also have a pair of continental road tires at 2.2 width. Only thing I regret was not going with a 52v system. I went with the 48v 24.5ah battery. But I get about 56 miles on throttle only with excellent conditions. I commute to work everyday total of 26 miles both ways and I freaking love it.

You’ll also find that it’s nice taking the bike out on good days sometimes. No noise just chilling on a good day driving down to the store. Another upside of a ebike to me

I did the same with the 750 fang mid drive, 46t lekkie chainring and the 52v jumbo batt Donor bike is my Trek 4300 4Series mtb. I can hit 40.8 max speed full charge of 58.9v (While peddling my ass off ) on a smooth street. Bike weighs in at 55 lbs now which is still light when compared to others. Everything other them frame and shocks are new Shimano Deore/XT. If you buy the programing cable you can set performance as you wish.. just don't crank the amps up to far as you may fry your controller... and you should throw your parts on a larger donor bike with better shocks.. that one is to small for you 💁

Can't go wrong with a Bafang BBS motor. Especially if you're a DIY'r. I've built 3 now(1 HD and 2 02's). Two are mine, one Road rocket that's HD powered on a 52v battery, controller reprogrammed to give 100% @ full throttle no matter what the PAS is set to. It'll cruise at 40mph in top gear, it's kind of scary. 6500 miles on it so far. 2nd one is Schwinn Axum MTB(hard tail) that's BBS02 powered on a 48v battery. The most recent 02 build was a Birthday gift for my God daughter. By the way, the space between the mounting plate and the motor where you stacked washers is usually always a 5mm gap if your bottom bracket is a standard 68mm BSA. Or a 6mm gap on PF30 bottom brackets after you get the proper adapter in there since all BBS's require the BSA standard.

Now I want one!

Great stuff just in time for me to do some research into doing this before spring since I bought a £220 mountain bike and I aim to fit a mid drive kit. However my frame is kinked by design so mounting the battery is going to be difficult. So i'm looking for a luggage rack that fits onto the swing arm which i've found one but I haven't found another at the moment. I'm only adding a motor just so I can commute to and from work a little easier so I shouldn't need a massive battery pack like that just a slightly slim one.

thanks!!! you have a new sub here!!

Did this bafang to my Kona ute.. has been Workhorse for years.. been pulling a four wheel farm wagon framed chloroplast camper utility vehicle on a class one hitch, for shopping and Adventures.. it's a new niche.. to get around Rome's roads with less rules and cost

I went with TongShen TSDZ2 for my fat tad CSX upgrade but now I need to upgrade to belt drive as I'm breaking chains all the time now. I'm also building a rear wheel with an Enviolo CVT hub that should allow for better power transfer and smooth gear ratio adjustments. That would stop some of the breakage but standard bike chain just stretches with a mid drive so it's always going to be weak; instead of spending the money to upgrade my entire chain drive, including sprockets, etc, removing the external rear cassette + chain and adding belt + IGH will make zero maintenance bulletproof drivetrain. I get full air on the BMX track and I have no trouble getting up into the bowls at the skate park but every time I land the thing or go over a cement lip it smashes the idler pulleys off - that's the final add is a skid plate to keep from destroying the belt pulleys until I can somehow move them above the frame.

2 years ago i built up my old 2004 Trek with one of these and I haven't looked back. I have a disability that's kept me from riding for year and i think soup to nuts I spent about $800 doing the conversion. Fooling around with re-programming it has helped a lot. I'm now building up another bike with a CYC Pro Gen 4. I *do* like the torque sensing much better.

You gotta get the programming. Smooths out the pedal-assist and throttle control. Feels kinda cheap without it, in my opinion. I own the 750w, 48v, mid-drive kit. Awesome on a Specialized Rockhopper.

You can get the programming cable that connects into the display port to change the power at different pas levels. Also I think the battery should have a lower center of gravity. I have my 52v 20ah on the bottle cage of my boardman mtx

Wow. Take your time

I just bought a pro flex 857 26 year old mountain bike for 50 $. Gonna build one of these, thanks for the ideas.

Hell yea bro 😎

It's a bit top heavy, but if it works it's good enough for me. Also, it has plenty of power to compensate for the extra weight. Nice quick build. Enjoy!

Hey just wanted to let you know that I'm going to order things tonight and build My All out bike...they need to start sending you free stuff for demo and you should start selling thing's... thanks for the video brother..

Great video! I love watching folks discover the joy of building an electric conversion . I have built at least 35 bikes to date, I have built with the Bafang 750 watt mid drive system but I generally use rear hub systems because they are easy to install and allow me to remove the system from one bike to another with ease. I get the 48 volt blue bricks and make my own battery armor then use velcro to hold it all in place, again this allows me to change out the kit from one bike frame to another with ease. That is what I really love about doing the conversions not expensive and universal . I have a full suspension Ebike present with a 1500 watt direct drive rear motor. I mounted to a custom rack I built but hope to find a frame I can chop the bottom tube so I can weld a battery box in it's place to bring the battery weight down but not in the way of front tire or bottom cranks.

Well, I can tell you one thing. That bike frame is a made in the USA max-extrusion that was made in Portland Oregon at a now defunct company Anodizing Inc. When you said you bought the cheapest bike you could find, you got a much better deal than you thought you did. That frame was originally designed with rim brakes only, as that was the norm at that time period. You notice the nice conversion arm on the rear brakes that allows using disk brakes on a rim brake frame. I have two of those bikes. One I have ridden near to death, and the other is similar to what you bought, ridden only to church on sunday and I'm an old man. Thank you for the video. You confirmed a lot of things that I have learned from other videos about making sure to use a shift sensor etc.

Just starting your Video. The main shaft has bearings, Bafang says 50-60 Nm, but this is not tight enough usually. 80Nm is max, withoutbputting to much strain on the bearings, lock thight will do the rest.

I installed a BBSHD on my bike , best value for money. Install is simple but you need to plan ahead before ordering and upon install. Motor brackets gets loose over time , purchase plumbing clamps (2 ) and install them on motor and connect one to frame to secure the motor. Cabling management took more time but there are ways to hide them such as a small pouch attached to front handle bars where you can hide the wires. Thanks to some video's on you tube my install was perfect and the bike looks amazing , the performance is out of this world.

I have the BBSHD and it keept going for 3 years and almost 25000 km so far with only 1 service. Sure has some flaws but for the price it´s awesome.

Bafang motor is all programmable. It can be smooth as silk and powerful as well.

Did you try and mount the battery on the front downtube, behind the front wheel? Looks like it would fit, and keep the weight low down for stability. I just tap one of the brakes when changing gear to cut the power momentarily, (without needing the extra shifter cable).

With peddle assist mode, and some programming, limit output to 250w. You'll get well over 100 miles on it, likely around 120. And you'll get around 60 miles with out peddling. That battery is huge, it likely will go much further than my numbers.

If you get a programming cable you can change the settings on the motor so that the power ramps on more smoothly when you start pedaling and stops quicker when you stop pedaling. Makes a big difference in how smooth the motor feels.

Just a suggestion. You can buy a seatpost mounted rear rack. There are many, many different models to choose from. I n my opinion your current battery would fit nicely on one and look much better and if you slide forward off the seat accidentally your bits wouldn't slam into the battery. Just a thought.

What you called "the controller" is actually the display. The "controller" is a printed circuit board inside the Bafang motor that controls all the settings, like power amp up and pedal assist power levels. I'd consider dismounting that nutcracker battery and put it in a backpack (with an extension cable). IMO from the factory PAS 1 is too much power but it can be reprogrammed to accomplish your own idea of perfection. If you're going to ride on throttle only I strongly suggest you use the gears (just like you would with a dirt bike). If you just throttle around in high gear you may overheat the motor or controller. If you use the gears properly the Bafangs are virtually indestructible. Ride on & enjoy;)

Put bafang 750watt mid drive on my old Giant Roam. Brilliant over 5200 km. It's great put gear shift sensor on that makes big difference plus use an Ebike Chain KMC our Shimano. Brilliant 😊

Great video! I built my 750w kit onto a genesis hardtail so battery fit inside frame on drink bottle holes. I love it!! What power motor did you fit? Cheers! Tom.

Change the wheel size down to trick the system to let you go faster. Also reprogram the system to give you power by percentage instead of 100 percent on low levels to a speed like it’s set up.

hey heads up those xt 4 piston brakes on there are pretty rare and seem to sell for upwards of $300 for a set on ebay, u could sell them, replace them with newer, better, and cheaper brakes and end with a profit and better stopping power.

the first thing to be done with bafang mid drives is rip the controller out and put a sabvoton or kelly unit in with 72 volts

If you're into function more than form then kit is the way to go.. also is advisable to have a relationship with Electric bicycle mechanic.. what you got there is a good brand.. buyer should beware of junk.. pay the extra money to get a reputable brand.. bafang all right by me... has been a champ with my cargo bike

New sub here thanks for the uploads but you chose the wrong frame a smaller battery could go underneath and have a lower centre of gravity.

well seeing enduro bike in the background, i went on to the video. ;)

I also ride single track with my dirt bike every weekend just moved to a area with some sweet mtb trails in Charlottesville I'm all in on the bafang I planned on the big battery will the smaller battery give me less power or just less range ?thanks for the video .I think we are on the same mind set dirtbiker first everything else is to just prepare for dirtbike riding days

and BTW, you did great at holding your tongue on TFL. I would have given him some unexpected content.

A battery half that size with 250 watt motor on a road bike would be good for 50-70 miles judging from the experience of other riders I have ridden with. Off road mileage is harder to compare as generally the speeds are a lot lower unless you are downhilling or on a flat non-technical course and most ATB courses are at most 10-15 miles so double track/gravel is needed for longer mileage without beating you up from rocks and roots.

YOU USED THE WRONG BIKE - I LOVE MY 750 WATT KIT - MAKES YOU FEEL LIKE A KID AGAIN

I'm planning on converting an older 26" Motobecane DS500 mtn bike. The battery will have to go on a rack in the back, but this bike will never be for mtn biking again anyway. I already have a clamp on rack for the seatpost. An Ebike is the only way I would ever go back to road biking, and it would be with an older friend that needs his Ebike to do what we used to do before. I would never Ebike on the trails. I don't like the motor kicking in just because I touch the pedals for a slight push over a rock or root. I could just shut the motor off, but then it would be dead weight, and I prefer to be the only dead weight on the bike thank you. LOL

great video. My first bafang lasted 3 years an 10000 miles...based on the rear shock frame you chose next time you should get the rear battery not the shark battery. It comes with a rear rack and rear light. Top heavy though... if you want safe low point of gravity buy a normal diamond back frame bike and the shark battery mount it to your bottle cage then get a towntube shock absorbing saddle post.

Very informative video! Does the motor have a torque sensor or a cadence sensor?

Great Video. Can you let me know which size motor and battery you have installed

Nice video I got the same kit from JNO same price but the sticker states 250W BBSO1B he swears the max output is 750 W also kit came with a 48v-10 ah battery.

My bafang experience: An old bike is the perfect donor to try out a motor kit, once you know your going to stick with it then get a better fitted bike for yourself. Mid drives will shred your rear wheel gotta be on top of wheel truing. a cassette is necessary to not get stranded. Johnny is a good source but I highly disagree with freewheels being a good choice for a mid drive. I have 15638 miles on the bbs02 odometer and have only done maintenance to it. Greasing the gears every few hundred miles is a good idea (the gears inside the motor not drivetrain) Lube your chain more frequently I use wax and touch it up with ptfe lube every 100 miles or so. Replace the chainring with the deruiz gold chainring it is the best one I have used. No teeth have chipped and I only need to replace it after about 1.5k miles (just sucks it is gold for bbs02, they have black for the Bbshd tho)

All weight needs to be as low as possible for better handling - those battery packs weigh a lot. I think there is enough space to mount the battery on the downtube above the motor without fouling the front wheel. The BBS02 750w kit has turned me into a cycling god! I can go up some insanely steep hills with ease - I used to have to get off and walk up them!

These work great on classic twin triangle frames. Turn those old hardtails into the commuters and gravel bikes instead of spunking thousands on new models. Love the old FSR btw. Their seatpost issues are a pain though

Nice Fiero in the back

Look for a better frame, such as a Turner Five Spot, where you should be able to mount the battery inside the front triangle of the bike. Having the battery up high is not optimal for handling. There are different controller programs available online. You need a PC and a special USB cable for it.

Yes

You don't need the shift sensor, I use my front brake as a clutch as in not engaging the brake but it cuts the motor.

I built a 29”r with a BBSHD 160nm of torque wit a 52 volt nothing out there can’t beat it

UGLY BUILDAND RAMSHACKLE BUT BY GOD IT RIDES FINE , GOOD JOB . I'm 74 and don't have transportation this is a low cost option so cool.

I don't like cadence sensors for speed...but you can customize the software for each level of 'assistance'...

i have a tongsheng as well and can only get two assist levels using the 850c for some reason, the low assist level has to much assist power... and jumps out where i lose control on single track,.... need to lower assist level/power.

hello congratulations for the video and the channel is very nice. I would like to ask you a question in the hope that you can help me, I see that you mounted the kit with a 12 speed, I too have a 12 speed and I would like to know how you went about adjusting the gears, which front chainring you chose and how you managed to obtain a good chain line. thanks in advance and congratulations again.

it seems like it will be better idea to get the biggest battery and after you see it in person and measure it you have to chose a bike which can fit that somehow decently

I'm about to order the bafang 750w mid drive motor, how do I know when chain size to order ?

Battery placement like a lot of the build is the Mutha Of Necessity. and battery weight matters as much as placement. I have found 36 volts is a really fine battery though all my personal bikes are 48 volts. 36 Volt on my wife's Voilamart 1000 watt cruiser keeps up with most my bikes and even out runs some of my 48's, it is far lighter than 48 volt batteries especially when you want longer range you need something like 20 ah 1000w well a 36 volt will weigh far less and will be smaller in size so easier to hang on the frame . You may lose a mile an hour from 48 to 36 in some cases with direct drives but mid drives and planetary geared hubs run great on them and generally you can set the battery lever in your handlebar controller.

you need to reprogram the controller with a usb programming cable (or get the Eggrider display). Stock programming is total crap. also you need a 42t dished chainring. You cannot go smaller, as you get a bad chainline on the large cogs in the rear. as for the tightenig of the bottom bracket lockrings, go as hard as you can and also add loctite, they will come loose. The best way to do it, is grind in the marks of the mounting plate so it fits snugly to the BB shell and will not eat itself into the BB with time (and get loose that way) The BBS02 motor is not for all frames, it will fit on frames that are made for tires up to 2.3" wide, bigger ones will require some spacers which worsen the chainline. Also, for a good build, you need to mount the battery in the frame triangle to keep the center of gravity low. that excludes most full suspension frames.

Great video When comes the video of you programing the bbshd with the usb cable?

Bro, I think you went short a appraisal you gave it, I think $1900 it would be for how you did it but if it was all used, used Specialized eBike. But a great branded bike with mostly up to date components and electrified… you would be really lucky to find a good branded e-bike for less than $4k, even the E-kit it’s known to be very reliable and full suspension, HydraBrakes and many other goodies, I bet that you saved at least $2.5k, also considering you are in US or EU, where they are more available. Great job, but sorry bro I just can’t hold it, LOL, the battery is probably heavier than the bike. Thanks for sharing, I would be building one from ground up and see how it goes with the 1kw mid drive.

I can hear myself going braaap "braaat " blazing out of the berms

I’m thinking about building my first e-bike and I’m currently searching everywhere for a good kit, would this be good for beginners? Also great video I love it!

I think it would be great to have an oversized battery. That way you could potentially ride for many hours on a rails to trails bike path even possibly making a round trip out of the whole trail and not need two cars, one at the beginning and one at the end.

I see you have the nut cracker 3000 Battery there, good choice 🤔🤣😂

Do you have a link to get the kit at that price? Thanks love the vid!

I'm building a Gravity Monster Fat Bike with the Bafang BBSHD kit and upgraded Deore XT hydraulic brakes. Plus the usual chain line issues... Now I'm into it almost $3K. And still can't ride the silly thing. So should have just gone to a professional bike store and bought a factory build. Easy peasy. No hassles. Parts and service after the sale makes itworth the money.

What was bofang thinking makeing there motor housing out of magnisam if it over heats or sparks really hot fire water will not put it out.???????

I think Jonny nerd out is 1 of the best. I paid for a short consultation when I wanted to convert my new hub drive himiway cobra to mid drive . I realized the frame wouldn’t allow but Jonny knows his stuff.

You could have gotten a seat mounting rack for the battery.

New m01 oneseven brand motor has true torque sensing, my current bbs02 bafang i mounted on my Giant Roam just immediately goes to max on each level, not so helpfull on muddy hills.

You started with a great bike for the price

You’re going to bust your balls on a battery pack. I don’t think you’ll impress your friends with that contraption, but let’s keep watching 😂

Not sure if its been mentioned, but be careful starting in high gear too much. These motors are happy at high RPM and less happy under load of high gear. A lot of premature wear cases has been linked to high gear starts or cruising in high gear for extended periods.

can you add a rear rack and mount the battery there? That frame seems a bit small for you no?

Glad you got hydraulic disc brakes because of the extra bike weight & you can get larger rotors (up to 8" with adapters) for even more stopping power (especially when going Really fast downhill, I've gone over 45 MPH). I have 5 years using the BBSHD, the same display & a similar battery (52V, 750 WH). You will like the results of programming the controller to your use and bike ability. Back pedal slightly, or stop pedaling to stop the motor while shifting. Sorry that you didn't research the battery size & shape before buying that bike so you could have gotten a frame more suited to the battery. My battery is mounted under the (straight) downtube, almost touching the drive unit, the low center of gravity makes my bike even more stable. I hope that the newer BBS02 can withstand the heavier use from mountain biking, the BBSHD has stronger components in the controller, and you can program it for 1600W of power (2 HP). The program from Pentoff (free download) will let you set cadence and power levels for each power level preset, 1 basic "power up", 2 high speed for on road or flat, and 3-6 for lower speed & increasingly more power for trails and climbing has been great for me. The 0 preset is no assist (but the odometer, etc continues to work) to save battery when you don't need assist & can still use the throttle. Getting a smaller chainring will let you use the power more effectively especially when climbing. I would not want to use the big & ugly stamped steel chainring of road, most better chainrings have "narrow-wide" teeth to match the chain, and (almost 100%) prevents dropping the chain when bouncing around or jumping. I can go 25+ miles (including a lot of climbing) using less than 25% of my battery. Even with my ebike weighing over 60 pounds, I can still bunny hop it over speed bumps. Remember that lithium-ion batteries are happiest between 30% & 80% of charge, and storing them fully charged (100%), or running them too low will shorten their life, the voltmeter in your display will let you know where you are at, I made a chart that shows volts and % of charge to help me. Also opening your battery case to silicone where the case mates up to keep water out is a good idea, I had to replace a battery because water got in and shorted out a bank of cells.