Forty years of heating exclusively with wood as a primary source of heat. 99% of it pine, with the occasional birch thrown in when I can get it, at temperatures down to -40, no issues. I burn 5 cords of pine per year. Moisture content is more critical than the species of wood burned. 15-20% moisture content is ideal for firewood. Also the more knots it has the hotter it burns, as well as whole rounds burn longer than split wood. I've had to, on more than one occasion at -40, crack a door open because it's +90 in the house. Most importantly, maintain your stove. Clean your chimney at least once a year, I clean mine twice. Make sure your door gasket is in good repair and sealing properly. When I see a stove where the glass is blackened, this is either the wood has too much moisture content, or more often than not the door gasket is buggered, or has been improperly installed and not effectively making a good seal. But as to the assertion that heating with pine is dangerous, that is a myth perpetuated by those who have easy access to harder woods.

Honestly, the fact that you straight up answered the question right off the bat, is why I'm now a subscriber to your channel. Thank you for the non-clickbait video. Much Appreciated.

I've been told that you can't burn many kinds of wood in my stove. I've burned it all. The only downside to some is the smell. Black cotton wood is acrid when it burns. My favorite firewood is free firewood.

Here in the American West it is known that if you are unwilling to burn pine or other conifer tree woods you will be spending the winter cold and alone. If it’s dry wood and it’s what you can get... burn it. The trick with the coniferous woods is just burn it at a fairly high temp and don’t let it smolder at a slow burn. A fairly high temperature burn will reduce the creosote buildup. And learn to clean your own stove and pipe. Do it whenever it is needed. It is easy, just think it through and get it done.

Two points to consider: 1. If you cut your own trees, ring them in the fall at least 1 year prior to cutting (we ring them 2 years) to allow them to dry standing. Because we ring them 2 years ahead, they are pretty well useable when cut and split. Mind you, it is normally pretty dry here most of the year. Ringing a tree involves cutting a band through the bark/cambium layer so the tree gets no moisture in the spring and dies leaving the needles in the bush to soil build. The summer moisture content is eliminated so the drying is accelerated and maintained throughout the entire year. An added bonus is the wood is lighter to load and haul just after cutting. The smaller branches make good kindling and knotty sections have lots of fatwood (resin-packed) so it lights easier and burns hot to help get coal bed started. 2. As far as creosote goes, as others have said it is dampness that is the problem. It keeps the fire relatively cool and smokey which is an incomplete burn causing the build-up. Instead of buying a chemical to help prevent creosote, use only well-seasoned wood regardless of species (we burn spruce and black poplar mostly) and invest in the training and equipment to clean your own chimney and stove. It really isn't that hard and can be done from the ground in most cases. I am physically unable to get to the top of the chimney so I had to learn how. A flashlight, mirror, strong "shop" vaccuum cleaner, brushes and an old sheet will go a long way to keeping creosote and soot under control. Not sure about the build-up during the heating season? Use the mirror and flashlight and check through the cleanout. Cheers from Alberta, Canada.

Instant like on the video for stating the answer straight away!

As you said, it grows extremely fast. Oaks take decades for a pine in 10 years. In Ireland we wouldn't dream of cutting an oak for fuel, as they're a native tree and becoming rarer by the day. Pine is cheap and sustainable.

Been doing it for years, never had a problem.

I have wood heated for 40 years in Ontario. Buy the smallest, most efficient stove you can and this means you will always have a hot fire instead of damping it down and smoldering the fire. I burn mostly softwood in the spring and fall (pine, spruce,poplar) because I only need a warmup and hardwood in the winter.

Being from Southeast Alaska where the only wood we have to burn is soft wood, it almost incomprehensible to talk about burning woods like maple or cherry! :)

Great video and topic. I've been burning for 15+ yrs and only switched to pine in the last 7 or so and have had no issues. I run an air-tight stove with baffles similar to yours and get very little smoke whatever I burn, which is key! Creosote comes from condensation of smoke particulates, so if there is little smoke, there will be little creosote (there are other factors too.) Last season I burnt 80-90% pine with no creosote removal products and when I cleaned my 30ft chimney I got about 2 cups of ash and no creosote. The only time I ever have had a chimney fire was when I first started burning I had an old non energy efficient stove that I would load up with hardwood and smother all day, lots of smoke, nice long burn, but within 4 weeks my chimney was literly plugged with creosote. I prefer to clean my own chimney so I know exactly how my stove is performing. Thanks for posting the video!

Been burning Pine for years up here in Canada. You are dead on, just keep the annual maintenance up with the pipe, and you are good to go👍

Burn a really hot fire at least once a week, you'll be able to burn whatever kind of wood you have on hand. I like your way of thinking.

Here in Germany it is also a regional thing as to what is burned. Chimney sweep comes by twice a year for our heating systems( wood stove and oil furnace). Have several friends who are chimney sweeps who have gotten real indepth training as to the creasote issue. The most important factor into reducing it is that the wood is thoroughly dry, in the sense of less than 12% residual moisture, meaning the wood has been split and stacked for a minimum of 2 years prior to burning. Pine actually has a higher btu to weight ratio than oak or beech, however the density of the wood is much lower and therefore doesn't last as long. You also can't beat the snap, crackle and pop of pine.

I'm in my 70s. Lived many places in my life with a woodburning stove. Heck you can burn ANY kind of wood. Its best if it is seasoned, but heck ya you can burn pine.

110 acres up hear mid coast Maine with about 70% of it pine, every one burns what ever falls. And that’s mostly pine. I try to burn a mix but old timers up hear say if it lites you burn it, clean your chimney 1-2 a season and you can burn old tires . Great video

Good video. Forty years ago, I bought a 4 cord truck load of hardwood slabs for $80 delivered. I talked to the sawmill owner a while and it turned out we were both US Army veterans. He then offered a free 4 cord truckload of pine slabs. He said the trick was to dry all wood well and to mix the pine with the hardwood. That worked well into the 1990s when he retired. I bought 20+ acres of black oak and have been burning that since. Good Luck, Rick

I've never heard of burning pine being an issue. I've lived in Colorado for 40 years and we burn almost nothing but pine.

This video is a huge help. My woodlot has a ton of pine and northern white cedar. I'll start using those, mixed in with oak, maple, and birch. I have a great chimney sweep who cleans the liner regularly, so no worries there. Thanks for sharing this info.

I'm in New Mexico. I've burned all kinds of wood. As long as it's dry, I'll run it. -- Ponderosa pine -- burns fast and the bark tends to sparkle a lot, (burning sawmill slabs). I can get it for $40/ton shipped. For day-time burning, it's cheap so you can keep after it. -- Pinon pine -- has a lot of oils in it that will flare up. It's great for kindling, but too aggressive for log-heat. Typically low ash. I buy dead-wood when the opportunity arises. Endangered species. -- Afghan pine -- is a lot like ponderosa. Around here, they're usually from someone's yard, so they're big, round and have few knots because they were planted too close and pruned high. -- Pecan -- I get it from orchards for $100/ton. Prunings. I'll burn it at night since it smolders forever. Sometimes, it has low ash content. -- Oak -- I can burn it at night. Typically low ash. Not very common around here because the areas that have it, are too much work to get to. -- Juniper - Easy to split. The ash crumbles to a fine powder when you get it from some regions. Endangered species. You can buy dead-wood and get excellent results. -- Red Cedar - Smells so good, I feel bad about burning it. Low ash. Easy to split. Makes beautiful furniture if you get the purple stuff. -- Arborvitae - Typically from someones yard. 3"-6" rounds. Wonderful to burn. Low ash. -- Tamarisk/Salt Cedar - Invasive species. Lots of very hard ash with high salt content. Sometimes makes a hard lump in the bottom of your stove. Some can be had for free + shipping. Some folks sell the multi-trunked stump, which you'll need to split lengthwise with your chainsaw. Don't drop the rakers, as it can be an aggressive cutting event. -- Cottonwood. Doesn't burn very fast. Splits easier than oak. -- Ailanthus altissima - Invasive species. Noxious weed. Splits poorly. Low heating value. Smells nasty. Smolders. Chunky ashes, needs a lot of airflow. -- Compressed bamboo biochar -- Coals run a bright white-yellow with good airflow, hotter than the blazes of hell and damnation. Cracked my fire bricks. Consider cooking with it. The non-compressed stuff makes great charcoal. -- Arizona cypress - Smells good. Burns like pine. Difficult to dry sometimes. -- MDF - Don't. Too many additives. -- Laminated plywood -- Don't. Sometimes, it had glue inside that makes a molten bubble that randomly explodes. -- Douglas Fir - More heat content than other pines. -- Walnut - Steady hardwood smolder.

Always burn dry wood. I age pine at least one year. Mixing the types of wood is a good policy. The other key to avoiding creosote is to keep your fires burning hot. Use a moisture gauge to monitor the dryness of the wood - it should be less than 20%. Use a gauge on the stove to keep the stove hot - 300 degrees.

Nice job Luke .. Informative , short and sweet to the point . I live in Michigan and have heated with wood since the 1960's . We have plenty of dead standing hardwoods to use for firewood but have used " Seasoned" pine as a jumpstart with no issues . You are very wise to have your chimney cleaned yearly by a professional... Cheers !!!🇺🇸

Dry wood of any species is good for my wood stove. It makes perfect sense to burn what you have available. Good video!

I am in Florida. The "Icebox" of Florida actually. I had to order my Resolute Acclaim by Vermont Castings for my house when I built it because no one sells them down here. LOL! I built my house around the thought of heating it. I do burn primarily pine. My stove has one straight pipe and I can remove the bottom section of pipe in less than 3 minutes to scrub the pipe clean. Once a year is more than enough for me to feel safe. Right now it is 32 degrees outside and 83 inside. just comfy.

Helping prove the FACT that people Will Gladly Argue about ANYTHING..... as usual

I grew up in NE Pennsylvania, in a house heated with a wood stove. Like you said, hardwood is plentiful there, and burning pine was considered verboten. Now I live in the Pacific NW, and burning hardwood seems absurd here. It's all a matter of what's available.

All we got in England is pine so I'm pleased about your conclusions! I've been burning it for years.

not only can you burn it, but to me it is essential. At least once a day while you ATTEND the fire, " Let it rip". Not only will you keep a clean pipe and flue, you should not need the high dollar creosote killer pellets. In the morning, I scoop out some ash, spread the coals around, and add some pine kindin', nothing else. I " burn off" the previous nights build up. The temp peaks just as the few pieces of kindlin burn up. Then chuck the smaller hard wood in on top of the hot bed of coals and the warmed up chimney. Good clean draft = a good clean burn. In conclusion , pine is a supplement in the East, not normally a primary. As mentioned, good maintenance, proper seasoning, and supervision when " letting it rip" will make pine your new best friend. Great video. good advice.

Nice video. It's good to see another pine enthusiast out there. I live in western Maine and like you, I own about 15 acres. My land is full of spruce and white pine. I burn it constantly, mixed with other hardwoods. I clean my chimney a few times per season, but it really doesn't get very dirty. The only issue I have is the screen in the cap. That gets clogged regularly. Great job!

Greetings from NW Montana. You are correct, we burn pine, of which lodgepole is my favorite. We do however have tons of ponderosa pine and doug fir on our place so that is mostly what we burn. As you said, "well seasoned" is the key so I let the P pine age for 2 years, then its good to go. Enjoyed your video.

You rock. Thank you so much for your demo and ideas.This puts things in perspective as I'm contemplating a five-acre lot with white and red pines in south-eastern Ontario.

I prefer to burn pine and poplar in the early fall mornings, and also in the late spring mornings. We just need one fire in the morning and after that it is warm outside. I always have dried pine

Red pine, black pine, white pine, jack pine. It all burns. Just dry it during the summer. It's all good.

This was so helpful thank you so much for this information. I just got a wood burning stove and I had no idea about wood choices for different uses. I have been given a truck load of pine and the creosote remover will be key! Thanks again. 🙏

Dead on brother. We burn pine plenty in our fireplace. Live not too far outside Philadelphia, PA -- I sell firewood & all my clients are so anti-pine it is ridiculous, but means plenty more for me (NorthEast coasters are hilarious). If you burn straight pine you want to sometimes season denser pine for 1yr+ (2yrs may be overkill, but it will ensure you really dried it out) -- If you still aren't fully comfortable, then clean chimney more than once. Doesn't hurt anything & it is a super quick process (yourself or hiring someone). People get their heaters & HVAC systems serviced often. It is the same principle. Wood is wood. Just season it, keep it dry. Stay warm y'all

I made my living cutting firewood in Oregon for a number of years, Pine is what I burned because the fir and hard wood was sold to buy gas and food. Never no problems just know your stove.

I’m new to having a wood stove and recently moved to the ADK, thank you for the information!

Here in Sweden we burn mostly pine, spruce or if we are lucky, we burn birch. We rarely have any sootfires in our chimneys here. On the other hand we have a law on licensed inspectors to come and inspect the chimney and fireplace/stove every 3 year.

I was converted myself... great video! At the shop they burn only pine because everything else is worth money and it’s never been a problem! Annual chimney cleaning obviously

Thanks for your perspective, very helpful.

I’ve been burning pine in my wood stove for years, not a problem

Out West there is a big difference between Ponderosa and Lodgepole pines. Ponderosa has more creosote even when dry so you have to be aware that it has more potential to clog chimneys. Lodgepole is a bit harder wood and burns cleaner but you will still get creosote. A major factor is also your chimney construction. If your stove is centrally located with the chimney going straight up in the house until it exits near the peak your chimney will stay cleaner because the smoke stays warm all the way up. If your stove is on an outside wall and your pipe goes through the wall then up the smoke will cool on the cold stove pipe and cause more creosote buildup. Mixing pine with other wood is the best way to go.

Thank you for the insight. I'm going to install a wood-burning stove and this is great information.

My mom won't let me use pine in our completely metal covered, new fixed and cleaned fireplace. I need to show her this. Thanks!

My grandfather burned nothing but pine in his fireplace and stove. About every tenth fire, he would get the fire roaring and throw a handful of salt in. He said that cleaned out the buildup in the pipe/ chimney. Make no mistake, creosote will build up if you burn pine. And it opens you up to have a chimney fire.

Greetings Luke I live in westchester county N.Y., and burn whatever I can get my hands on. Pine burns very fast and hot, while the harder woods can support a long overnight heat source. Both types of wood have their place for keeping the house warm and comfortable. I also burn lots of pallet wood both hard and soft because it is bone dry. Your personality is laid back, delightful and the type of person I would like to have as a neighbor. The only way to improve your video production would be to see more of your loving beautiful dog!! All the best from New Rochelle N.Y.

Hi I'm in Nottingham England.Just enjoyed your video everything you said is everything I know an do myself. Yeah lots of people say stay away from pine that's ok if you got your hands on a load of hard wood.Mind you hear in the supper markets its £5 for around 7 pieces of hard wood.If I had to buy it I wouldn't bother I'd just spend the money on gas.cheers mike

Thank you for sharing, this really helps. I have lots of pine and I wasn’t sure if it was OK to burn or not, so I’ve been doing some research, this is my favorite video. Thanks again

Gotta burn what you have. Here in Nw I don’t have the option of a lot of hardwoods. Dry it and clean your chimney and don’t be a wood snob and all is good. Thks for your video.

I'm in north east Illinois and I purchase cords of wood a year or more in advance of burning it. Years ago "mixed hardwood" was exactly that. Problem around here is there is a fungal disease of short needle pines that has been going through the region for the past ten years taking out all the blue spruce, Norways and other such trees people planted on their properties decades ago. So now I have noticed a fair amount of the wood I buy - I'd say 25%/30% - is pine. The average person buying a face cord for the holidays probably doesn't recognized it, but I do. But as my wood sits for an average of two or more years before I burn it and is super dry, like you, I have grown to love the stuff. I'm not getting any younger and find pine easy to stack, easy to carry, burns hot. Life is good.

We burn a well seasoned pine / hard wood mix. No issues many years. I clean it when ever needed, but not much creosote. Straight chimney helps. Thanks for the tips.

Lodgepole is the fast food of firewood here in Montana. It's straight, splits really well and grows in thick stands. Larch and Doug fir are the premium woods out here. Properly seasoned pine will not cause the creosote buildup that easterners believe.

At 8,400 feet here in the Colorado Rockies, that’s pretty much all there is. Ponderosa and lodgepole. It burns hot and starts quickly, so it’s particularly good if your cabin is really cold. Conifers are fun to split with a maul. I leave the splits as large as my stove can handle to increase the burn time. Take care!

Thanks for putting the bottom line up front. I subscribed. Great info!

Hi Luke. I'm a farmer in Scotland where I use both oil and wood fuel for heating. I plan to switch to a wood burning range cooker by next winter. I currently burn a mixture of hardwoods but not pine for the usual reasons you mentioned ie. chimney soot, tar etc. but I could reconsider pine in future. My wood fuel is sourced from a wide mix consisting of Oak, Beech, Ash, Cherry, Maple, Hawthorn, Willow and Eucalyptus - all from my estate. They all have their own unique burning characteristics and used accordingly. Thanks for your informative video. WFH

My papaw said they used pine for the cook stove and hardwood for heat in the fireplace. That was way before electricity. In fact, he was married with kids before they had electric, indoor plumbing.

Your right people in northern Minnesota have been burning pine trees for years that is all there is besides cedar

The problem with burning pine is too many people damp their stoves down for a slow burn and don’t get complete combustion. Open the vents and run a hotter fire and the chimney doesn’t soot up. I only clean my chimney every 3 or 4 years whether it needs it or not, and I never had any build up of soot. Of course, I always run a hot fire, and I burn anything burnable.

AWESOME video. Thank you for the info

A forester once told me that pine is perfectly fine to use in a wood burning stove. I've got all hardwood where I am, but I won't be afraid to burn pine if it shows up. The issue with our pine (where you can find it) is that it burns fast and gets really hot.. Right now I'm burning Oak and little hickory from a trees taken down in the yard.

My family and I have always mixed as you do.

From one Vermonter to another Ben burning pine for years like you said moisture content is a huge thing and that goes with any type of wood, You're absolutely right with the pines Vermont was forced many years ago to make farmland and now we're left with these pines which I can't stand other than for firewood great video thank you so much for sharing

I've been burning hardwood since 1999,I think if u have hot fire, keep chimney clean out once a year,you're get a mental record what it take not to have problems, great information

I love pines, one of my favorite trees out there, the crackle sounds coming from the fire it’s like no other. So Ill say no weeds lol very useful ones trees.

As long as it is well seasoned its not bad, granted it burns fast but ya burn what you have and use common sense and its all good

Thanks. Nice stove.

Thank you for the video I need to get me some of that stuff for my wood heater.

You can as long as it has been split and stacked for minimum 6 months in the summer... it doesn't burn very hot but does burn good.. I always was 5 years ahead so each winter I was burning 5 year season wood

One more thing, white pine is awesome for kindling. I love starting fires with that.

Yes. Agree. We plan on burning it in our home we are building this spring too mixed with other woods same as you because we’ll be getting all our wood from our land and that’s what we’ve got. Adirondacks are very much like Vermont! Beautiful area you have there👍

Thanks from across the pond useful info, Take care stay safe.

I’ve read creosote build up is no more with pine than hardwoods it actually comes from non seasoned wood as well as low burning temps. The only down side I seen of pine was that it produces less heat and burns faster. The key is well seasoned wood and to keep it hot and to not let it smolder for long periods where you get more smoke. I was told from a forester that fir’s and pine are common burning woods in the west and north west where hardwood is more scarce. Also chimney maintenance is mandatory every season no matter what you burn it’s just a part of the process to keep things working as intended. Nice video 👍🏻

A perspective from England (Older England): All the discussions I've seen on this topic have been disappointingly superficial, and most have reduced what is a very complex subject with many influencing factors to the pointless dichotomy of 'pine good' or 'pine bad'. This video has some of these shortcomings but I like it because it gives a practical illustration of a good pine-burning strategy. I'd like it more if you'd explained WHY it works. All wood consists of a carbon skeleton and a variety of volatile chemicals (volatile - with a boiling point within the temperature range reached by a stove and therefore liable to evaporate before igniting). When a small dry log is put on the fire, the first flames to come from it are from the burning of the vapour of the lowest boiling-point volatiles. As the temperature of the stove rises, volatiles with successively higher boiling points evaporate and also burn. With a large log the process is mixed as it doesn't heat up or release the flammable vapours at a uniform speed throughout the log. Eventually the carbon skeleton is left - the 'coals' that remain at the end of a woodfire, and this also burns if the temperature is high enough, and with little smoke and great heat. Just like a barbecue. Hardwoods have more carbon and less volatile content, and this higher carbon content with its higher ignition temperature and higher energy density is why your cherry log does not catch alight so readily, and why it yields more heat over a longer period than a softwood log. The cross-linking within the log is different for all species, and for some (eg Ash) it breaks down quicker in a fire than others (eg Oak), which is why an Ash log will crumble and burn more swiftly than an oak log of the same size. The softwoods all differ in their volatile content and composition too, and in general, pines have a lot more low temperature volatiles (turpentines) which is why with their straight grain, they are so well suited for kindling material. It is the higher temperature volatiles that produce creosote which, if released quickly enough by a big enough log, in a cold enough fire, with a poor enough air supply, into a cold enough chimney, with a poor enough flue draught will condense in the chimney and a) pollute the atmosphere, b) waste embedded energy in the log and c) risk subsequent chimney fires. A big pine log in a small stove will likely overwhelm the air supply's ability to burn the huge gout of volatiles released as it gets going, and the result is either a creosoted chimney or, at higher air flow rates (say, if you open the door a little) combustion in the flue which heats your chimney rather than your room. This, and wet logs, open fires, unlined & uninsulated cold chimneys, and short stacks with poor updraft (NB I noticed there was smoke in your room the moment you opened the door) is what has given pine a bad name. But it is a fine firewood if you understand its properties (which lead you to have a bigger stack because of its lower energy density, and to feed in smaller sized logs at much shorter intervals). Which is more or less the conclusion you have empirically arrived at.

Montana here, pine and cotton wood. What ever else. Matinance a must!

Thanks for the info. Lots of hardwood where I am at and people love to just give it away when they drop trees. Having the pine to get me going when I have coals would be useful. Going to probably grab it next time someone has some and get it seasoning. Share video with the family as we are all wood burners.

Any wood will produce creosote if it's not seasoned well enough. I season my firewood for a minimum of 2 years, preferably 3. The pine is 2% humidity, hardwood no more than 10%. The stove window stays clean, and all you see coming out of the chimney is shimmering hot air, no smoke.

It’s only controversial if you live back East.

Hey there, I also live in Vermont, thanks for the idea, I'll definitely try it out.

I’m a native Vermonter 46 years. I burn anything for warmth.

My pine burning history is similar to yours. We had a lot of pine here and it provided a lot of lumber pre-white man. By the early 1900's most of the truly large ones were cut for lumber. Then we had a series of fires. So the ecosystem changed dramatically. Mostly white and red pine. Some hemlock and other species. Pine are still common. I own a small piece of land with a lot of Jack Pine on it. Jack Pine grows quite large but in general is smaller than White Pine. And is less valuable for lumber. My parents burnt wood for heat and so do I. And the reservations about burning pine are pretty much here as theay are where you are. Lots of concern about creosote. And like you, I spent some time in the west and realized that there people burn pine almost exclusively in many places. I have been cutting, mostly oak, most of my wood on public property (state, federal, and county land) but it is getting scarce so I'm switching over to cutting more and more on my own property and it's a mix of maple, jack pine, cherry, and oak. So, I'm switching over to more and more pine while watching carefully to see what happens in terms of creosote buildup. No issues so far. But I clean my chimneys at least twice during the winter burning season and am currently burning pine only in the stove with a metal chimney. I personally think a lot of the hesitation about burning pine is associated with not drying it properly so it's burnt in a fashion that creates more dense smoke and thus more creosote. I burn only pine that is well cured/dried and I periodically burn a hot fire to help insure the system is burning efficiently. I think burning in a fashion that creates a relatively hot chimney lessens opportunity for condensation of gases on the chimney and that is of course what creates creosote.

Yeah up here in upstate NY people think your crazy if you tell them you can burn pine. They don’t believe you can do it. And don’t believe me. And I own a tree company.

You sir is absolutely right in everything you stated and I personally do the same like you.

Great video and great information

Growing up in Maine I was taught the dangers and futility of burning softwoods. A firewood dealer in Flagstaff, Arizona told me that New Englanders are spoiled with an abundance of hardwoods to burn. He also told me that pine and spruce need longer to dry than most hardwoods. He allowed two years for softwoods and one year for hardwoods. Now that I am back in Maine I burn whatever I get for free. Most of my wood comes from cleaning up storm damage. People pay me to haul it away and I use it to heat my house. When I have more than I can use I bundle the excess and sell it as "campfire wood." It's always a mix of hard and soft woods.

In the Black hills of WY ponderosa pine is the ONLY thing you can find to burn. We get exotic and import some lodgepole pine now and again

Here in southern New Jersey we have a ton of different woods I usually use pine for the outdoor fire pit only but this is good info ,that being said I have an endless supply of mostly pine pallets I use for kindling with out issue

I use the following trick; To avoid chimney fires put dried potato peels into the kindling of the first few fires of the season. The starch from the potatoes coats and seals any soot residue left in the stack from the previous year, reducing the risk of unexpected chimney fires. Dried potato peels can be used to initiate what is called a "controlled burn" which ignites creosote in the chimney converting the thick tar-like creosote into fluffy carbon deposits which can be removed easily. I was a firefighter and no expert but it works fine with me...😊

Here in the Pacific Northwest we burn what we have, mostly pine and maple.

My father burned pine and everything else his whole life. No problems.

I'm from North Carolina I've always heard that to, causes chimney fires, keep it clean you can burn pine just fine

was interested in your subject however, when I saw you with your co host I just had to subscribe because you are a good man,

Out here in Montana we burn mostly pine especially with all the beetle kill. Been doing it for 42 years.

A pound of wood regardless of species has the same btu’s but a pound of pine vs oak size wise are very different. A cord of pine has 17.1 million BTU’s but a cord of red oak has 25.7 million BTU’s. Oak is more dense so it has higher energy density. I grew up in Idaho, we burnt tamarack. I live in New England and now burn oak/maple/birch. I start the fire with birch/maple and load the stove for overnight with oak. Pine/bad is a fallacy Edit: was a national chimney sweep guild member/certified chimney sweep. I saw more issues with “Tim the toolman” types that bought the biggest stove in the store only to keep it damped down so low that the wood just smoldered. I run my stove correctly and never really have to clean the pipe. As long as the exhaust stays in its gaseous state leaving the chimney, you won’t get creosote build up.

Really great video, I have a lot of those old growth ones like 6 ft round in my yard.

I'm in Indiana and you absolutely can burn pine in a wood stove, I do all the time, the creosote accumulates faster so be aware of that , everything this guys saying is absolutely correct

Well seasoned wood is good no matter what it is and cresote cleaner good cause the smoldering hard wood builds up also. If ya see smoke your building layers in your pipe no matter what the wood is. Great video.👍

Pacific NW burns softwoods. Much more plentiful than hardwoods.

Great advice. Thanks!😊

I'm in NH and have been burning for 47 years. My way of burning has changed over the years. I use a Pelleteer at the start and end of the burning season. Burning pellets creates a lower heat, so the stove doesn't heat the house too much. Dec to Feb I burn hardwood started with fatwood or leftover coals. I never burn below 350 on the chimney to avoid build-up of creosote

Experimented with burning pine for past 20 years in Maine. Not mainly by choice, but do to abundance of pine on our land. I had some winters 90% plus of firewood was dead or fallen pine. Major downside with pine is the wood just burns a lot faster than hardwood, so you'll be making more trips to stove and not ideal for overnight. I never had problems with chimney surprisingly. I was cautious because I'd heard all the BS tales. Really you can burn any wood in a stove, I like having a little bit just for earlier fazes of a fire because catches quicker than hardwood. I'm looking about 10% softwood this year mainly just for early fire going.