to correct 8:05 - the noise decrease is not 50%, since decibels are a logarithmic scale. Therefore, going from ~60dB to ~30dB is a 1000x decrease in perceived noise levels.

I have made the full upgrade with the 4 noctua fans that are in the description. The printer was really whisper quiet, BUT when I printed I saw the layer lines were more visible on my prints. Turns out the 4010 is not nearly enough to be used as a part cooling fan, I reverted back to the stock fang using the stock part cooling fan and 3 noctua for the rest, it is still significantly quiet, but I wouldn't want to lessen my print quality for a lesser sounding printer. Also I saw the 4020 fans were better for both hotend and part cooling fan, apparently 2x 4020 fans for part cooling is doable, lastly I saw that 4020 Noctua has the same blow and sound as a Sunon 4010 so that might be considerable

I like your style! The volume difference is amazing. Wouldn’t be hard to sleep near that.

This is awesome. I’ve been afraid of taking my printer apart and breaking it but now I’m excited to do these upgrades.

This is literally exactly what I needed. I've been wanting to do this upgrade for a while but since I don't do much sautering I was afraid I would break the printer since every video says you need to sauter the wires to the fan and the buck converter. Thanks a lot this was very helpful!

Cool! Very useful video. Please continue doing videos I enjoy them very much 👍

I appreciate that the thumbnail for this video isnt you making the hush motion 🤫 This video was incredibly done. You did a amazing job.

great video! the instructions are pretty clear, helped a lot. thanks

thanks for sharing and making such detailed, clear guide!

So glad I found this video. Thanks for making it.

Super helpful, thanks! About to install on my Max Neo 😁

Caution!! Make sure to ser the buck converter output voltage to 12v before you attach the fans.

TUTORIAL FOR DEEPER UNDERSTANDING AND ENDER 3 V2 NEO First off I realized with the Neo, that the power supply is a little bit more complicated and I couldn’t find a good video, but all you do is take off the top four screws above the power supply, and it should drop out and from there you take the covers off of it. I didn’t have to take any screws off the bottom except for the one screw that holds the cover on the bottom, the rest of the screws for the PSU cover are on the sides and one hides under a sticker. Next, he says in the video that the power supply fan is 12 V already but it is not. It is 24 V so you’ll need a converter. For that one as well making it a total of four. If you buy the PWM fans that he linked which are the ones I bought all you do is cut off the end and use the yellow as positive and the black is negative, leaving the green and blue to the side as they do not need to be used. Another thing, for the Neo use the Neo Thang fan duct that is on Thingiverse for free. Other than those few tweaks this works perfect for me only other modification I had to do was I printed my own spacers, extending them another quarter inch as the power supply fan was literally touching the ground suctioning itself against the floor instead of pulling air

Stock fans can be powered from 12 to 24v. I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks. I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow. On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm declared for 21 db and built a custom support. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.

Great Video👍🏻

I should point out that another point of safety with the buck converters is to use ferrule crimps on the wires for the screw terminals on the buck converters. I've converted all my loose wire ends to ferrules where they would interface with a screw terminal. Much more secure, efficient, an less prone to shorting or causing a fire.

Hi I just try to do this mod but something did go wrong. I successfully plugged in the buck converters and checked for shorts. All looked ok so I turned on the printer. Only one fan started spinning and I was able to set the buck converter. The other two fans (hotend and motherboard) did not spin and when I tried to measure the output voltage from motherboard there was 0. Can you help? I hope I explained it well. Edit: I sucessfully make it work. The problem was that the fans are not running always and if you turn on the printer the 2 out of the 3 buck converters dont turn on. you have to set the buck convertors on the hot end fan wires which are always running, then reconnect them to the other fans. then it will work. This was not mentionet in the video. Everything else works just fine.

Thanks for making the vid! Helped me out a ton. Managed to replace the motherboard fan with a 80mm noctua fan with the ne cover you shared. And the printer is standing high and proud on four hightend feet. Gotta love how you print these parts in any color you want to customize the printer as you like. For me, that means everything is either blue or white lol. Ohh and I also printed those belt tension knobs, easy and fast prints :)

Just completed my upgrade. All noctua fans. Thanks for the easy guide! Worth noting that my PSU fan was wired backwards from the factory. Had to cross my wires to get it working. Absolutely worth it, even if it's a little jankier than the default setup. If you use a CR-touch make sure to be careful with the z axis. If the probe isn't low enough, you'll jam the nozzle into the bed like I did. If it's too low you'll drag the probe when trying to print. Just be cautious. Oh, and if you got the 4 pin fans like I did, reminder that black = ground, yellow = +12V. Green/blue don't get used, so you can clip them off. I used the extender things from the box to cut, so the fans are in perfect condition still.

I'm new to 3D printing and just got a direct drive part for my Ender 3 V2 (that I haven't installed yet). Will this same set up work with that or does it need to be the stock bowden version?

You could use smaller converters as the seven segment dispalys are not needed. Great video 👍

nice video man

Can't you just wire the 2 Noctua fans which replacing the part cooling fan and the hot end fan ? Maybe then you can control the speed as well, and you don't need to reduce the voltage ? Just out of curiosity

finally, someone with a visual installation tutorial. my bad if you mentioned it, i mustve missed iot. you rockin a 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 board?

Good video! Have you experienced any heat creep with the 40x40x10 fans?

Just so everyone knows, you can route all three through one converter, as long as it supports the combined amps of all three fans

Hey Kelpy 22, I just love that video. I have been installing the all three fans including the bug converters, when turning on the printer I don't get any power to the hotend fans to level the bug-converters. No clicking of the fans, so they have not "burned through" because of the 24v. I cannot make sense of it, and I have been measuring with the multimeter from the mainboard jack when turned on, barely any voltage there. both bug-converters of the hot end fans do not even receive voltage on their inputs. Maybe it's worht mentioning, I have the native display unplugged, and I am running Klipper with Mainsail on a Raspberry Pi 4 usually ... I am out of ideas ... can someone help me out please ?

Have you had good success after installing the buck converters? I’ve heard that after a few weeks they can start to damage the main board

I'm having trouble mounting my CR touch. I printed the better fang mount for the CR touch, but the stock screws that came with the CR touch don't work. Which screws did you use?

I might have missed it but how do you do cable management for the printhead? is there a place in the printed one where you can just tuck the cables in? also will I still be able to control the part cooling fan speed?

What screw/s did you use to mount the 3D printed central silent fang fan? Was it just the original screws to the hot end cover?

For the Power supply fan you mention using the 3-to-2 pin conversion but the fan you linked in the description is a 4 pin fan. I'm not sure if I'm just confused but did you mean to link the NF-A8 FLX (80mm fan with 3 pins) instead of the NF-A8 PWM (80mm fan with 4 pins)?

would this upgrade be the same for the ender 3 v2 neo?

How exactly do you prevent stringing. Pla+ I have re leveled the bed but before the print even starts the pla oozes out and the little bit that oozes gets caught up on the exhaust mount

What fan did you end up using to replace the one inside of the psu?

Would this upgrade work with an ender 3 neo?

Gonna do this for my Ender 5 Pro, the stock fans that came with it are stupid loud. Its as loud as a server rack

I have got a question, when I plug in the fans with the converter the Motherboard one and the on hotend one are not spinning, but the converter blinks 1 time and turns off. Is that normal or is that a problem?😅

This is awesome, would this work on a V2 Neo?

Can I use this tutorial on ender 3 pro?

3:20, do you have to strip the wires of the original fan too? I don't see you stripping the yellow & blue wires

Going to this effort should also get a different fan shroud printed so you can bump up the part cooling avility of the printer.

hi... can i use a Spider v.3.0 hotend with this mod?

I’m begging make a tutorial exactly like this for the stock Ender 3 (a new 2022-2024 model because they’ve changed stuff on them)

i noticed in the vid you used raised feet on the printer ... are they nessecary for the fan mods and motherboard replacement cover to work? You don't really cover this in the video..

Which buck converter is solder less? The ones on the link have to be soldered.

I spent a few hours disassembling my printer and doing this modification. Sadly the cooling doesn't work and clogs the extruder almost as soon as it starts or 2 minutes into the print. Ive cut all of the original fans to make it quieter but now there's no going back. How do you actually print with this? Something in the printer is still extremely loud as well. Its really not worth the time or money. The noise is much better than the brick.

Do you have to remove everything to change the nozzle?

Do we need pin adapters?? You mention it but there's no link etc

Make sure you get the flx NF-A8 not PWM

I'm confused. The pan you listed for the power supply is a 4 pin fan, but the power supply has only two pins... How does this work?

Cant you just run both fans in series on one 24v connector that way you don’t have to use the buck converter

for the 80mm fan, i don't have an extension that converts it to 2 pin? i only have 4 to 3 pin, how am i suppose to put it into the buck converter, when the buck converter only takes 2 wires

Will this work with a ender 3 pro aswell?

Aren't the A4 fans 5v though, not 12v? Thanks!

👍

Don't cut the fan wires so close, you'll regret it when you run out of spares. Trust me..

You should start the video at some point with that potentially massive con of not having a speed control option for the fan

what if my extruder fan is goingn and i cant print anything?

Huh this is easier than I thought it would be, maybe it’s worth $50

Turning the machine back "on" isn't working as you may thing. The switch just disconnect the phase. It's not like a startup button. So in the end it doesn't matter.

I may do the same with my noisy inverter fans. Thanks!

Those Noctua fans are good for Noise yes, but less Noise always means less airflow as well. Could lead to some unstable temps or worse cooling.

This Tutorial was te wirst i have ever Seen BC i was trying to connect the Fan and you Just did Not explain at all!!!!!!!!!!

I think mine got louder

ugh Mustang