Really liked the tips on grab loop. Barrel knots made so much sense, will using this on my old town Thanks

Clear, concise and good information. Just done my Prospector. It's looking good. Thanks.

I backed the bow eye with a glob of epoxy which I then drilled through, so the hole is reinforced and does not present an entrance for water. Chamfer the edge with a countersink and paint the exposed fibre. I finished it off with a leather 24 pointed star around the hole, hot glued to the outside of the hull, port and starboard. Looks really nice.

I threaded the lacing through short lengths of tubing (I used 1/4 ID black fuel line) on the inside of the canoe on every second loop. It keeps the rope away from the hull to form useful handles or eyes for the criss-crossing shock cord I use to keep gear in the boat. Cut the tubing on a 60 degree angle to match the angle at which the rope meets the hull.

A rather good arrangement Sir.

Really great. Cheers mate

Excellent design/demonstration, thank you.

Drill the minimum possible diameter for the rope as it will be thinner when pulled tight creating a gap where it passes through the hull. Use a sail needle to run a twine "messenger" out through the centre of the rope end to make it easier to feed it through the holes. Melt the rope end into a thin taper first.

Hi Adam, great video. Hope you’re well

Thanks

Very helpful, just waiting on the exact same canoe being delivered (in green). Can I ask, where did you purchase the rope for the lacing and also the clear pipe for the gear connection points.

Ive never seen a hole for a sail before. Do you an example of this in action?

Hello and thank you for this video. I'm about to outfit my Ribor 16ft in the same way as well as how Ray Goodwin has in another video. These are very helpful tips and explanations but it would be helpful if you could show how you tied the cordich to the grab rope in a vide. I also liked the fact that you used piping for the inner attachment points but not all along the canoe. Thanks again, really really helpful.

I also liked the overall set up. However I don't quite understand the point about the lacing giving extra boat long support to the grab handles. As soon as an internal grab handle knot reaches the inside hole all the length ways support stops and it is down to the grab handle holes alone. Yeah??

Why don't they sell canoes with these holes already predrilled??

A bow eye should be lower on the stem so that when towing or dragging it lifts up on the bow to prevent it from ploughing or zig-zagging.

Without sealing the holes, is there a danger of water getting in between the two skins?

how did you set up the gear loops? is that rubber tubing over the line?

Fab demonstration, could you post a material list used? and where I could purchase the items. Many Thanks

What size/sort of rope did you use for the front grab loop please.

Would you mind sharing the spacing spec you used? For the point to point (outside hull) as well as the point to point (inside the hull)? Thank you

Bevel each hole and apply a dab of paint to smooth the edge to prevent the sharp fibreglass from cutting into the rope.

never put a grab loop .. it's a serious trap point your hand can get stuck in it. In flowing white waters youd never want to be in that situation, attached to the boat. Best beaHOUtiful canoe