I got mine as a 21st birthday present, which would have been late 1981. As you say, it was revolutionary for its time. With so much technology these days it's easy to forget how primitive technology was back then. I remember not being able to believe that the camera actually did what it did! Like you, I too have very fond memories and I still have the camera. I'm very sorry to hear that yours was stolen.

Back then if you said, "microprocessor", people would look at you funny. "Transistor" was a part of the popular lexicon, but not "microprocessor".

Your Dad has great taste! I do wish you luck and thank you for your comment!

@@PhilUKNet my father actually passed 7 years ago, and I was going through his belongings the other night when I decided to try and tackle his large A-1 gear bag. I feel like a new connection has been made with him despite him not being here anymore.

@@kaitlyngilchrist6757 Sorry to hear that, Kaitlyn. My Mum passed three years ago and it leaves a big hole in your life. This will be a great way for you to reconnect. If you have any questions about using the camera feel free to ask.

Best of luck and happy shooting! I'm in a similar place. I was shooting film back in the 60s and processing and printing in the bathroom. About 8 years ago I sold my digital Rebel and 4 lenses because I was broke. From then on I shot on iPhones only - which is very interesting and forces one to think about subject and composition. But I just got the B&W film itch and got my A-1 about 3 days ago. This is an excellent time to be getting back into film, as digital sales are way down and interest in film is soaring...

I'm pleased it was useful, thanks for your comment!

I got my first A1 in late 1981 (21st birthday present) and used it constantly until I bought a used T90 in 2000. Despite using the A1 for so many years, I never actually used the multiple exposure lever. However, these features are always useful to have if you want to start getting creative. Thanks for your comment!

I just bought one, and I think I'm falling in love. I'd love an F-1, but do I *need* an F-1? Doubtful, but I would love to have one. Back in high school in the 60s, I had a Miranda (still have a soft spot for them) and was processing and printing in the only bathroom in my parents' home.

A lot of people inherit these cameras from older relatives. I was the original owner of my A1 back in 1981/2 so it makes me feel really old! If you have some basic knowledge of how exposure works it's not to difficult to figure out how to use the A1. I did miss a few things in the video, but if you have any questions drop me a comment!

There's longer ones on YT, but this one gives you all you need to know, and in far less time. Many thanks, Phil.

I'm glad it helped. Thanks for your comment!

i guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.

@Anders Milan Instablaster :)

@Keaton Zachariah I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

@Keaton Zachariah It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thanks so much, you saved my ass!

I've never been to Japan, but the used camera shops there must be treasure troves because so many cameras were made in Japan. I loved my A1 until I bought a T90. Once I'd had a T90 in my hands it was difficult going back to the A1. Thanks for your comment!

@@PhilUKNet Oh really? I haven't looked into the T90 before, I'll do that now! When I go to buy my camera I'll take some shots of the shop I went to and let you know if you like!

@@Midnash98 There was a huge technology jump with the T90. You can still have fun with film and still attach FD lenses natively, but every aspect of the T90 is better. Just make sure you get one that doesn't have problems and looks as if it has been looked after because repairs may be difficult, if not impossible these days. Failing that, a good A1 will also be fun. I'd be interested in seeing some photos!

@@Midnash98 Hey man, would mind share us the location of the shop? Thank you in advance

Iqmal Sunny Of course! It’s a small shop in the north west of Kyoto called 第一写真店 - Japan, 〒602-8447 Kyoto, Kamigyo Ward, 智恵光院通五辻上る紋屋町299

Glad it helped. Thanks for letting me know!

Thank you! At first, I looked for a very specific battery number and couldn'tfind it. I then realised that the same battery is sold using lots of different numbers! Thanks for the info.

My pleasure! My Mum (and Dad) bought my A1. It was a 21st birthday present, but I guess I'm a little bit older than you. I got mine at the end of 1981. Aren't Mums great?! Thanks for your comment!

Thanks for your comment and congratulations on getting your new camera! In P, Av and Tv mode the camera works out the correct exposure itself and the LCD in the viewfinder just tells you what has been set. You need to have the aperture ring on the lens set to A for these modes. In P mode it sets everything itself. In Tv mode you set the shutter speed and it sets the aperture value. In Av mode you set the aperture and it sets the shutter speed. Provided that the LCD isn't flashing, exposure will be correct. If the camera needs an aperture or shutter speed that isn't physically possible the LCD will flash to let you know. In manual mode (aperture ring not on A and using Tv mode) the LCD displays the shutter speed you have set and the aperture that is 'needed' to get the correct exposure. If you set the actual aperture to something different the LCD won't flash, but you won't get the correct exposure. Normally, metering is done at the maximum aperture value and the lens stops down just before the shot. If you want you can push in the stop-down lever and the image in the viewfinder will get lighter and darker as you rotate the aperture ring on the lens. Does any of this help?

@@PhilUKNet Thanks for the replying! Regarding the manual mode, if I shot at indoor with low light condition. I turn my aperture to 1.4 and the LCD viewfinder displaying the aperture at 1.4 too but in flashing mode. Is the camera trying to telling me that I have to adjust the shutter speed (Maybe 2 second) as slow as possible until the aperture of 1.4 in LCD viewfinder do not flash again? So that it achieve the correct exposure?

@@millionkitchen8478 That's right. If the LCD is flashing it means there is a problem with under or over exposure. Why not just use Av mode in low light instead of manual mode? Set the aperture ring to 'A', select the aperture that is equivalent to your lens's maximum aperture and it will automatically select the correct shutter speed. I'm not at home now, but when I was messing around with manual mode it displayed the shutter speed I had set and the aperture that was required, not the actual aperture I had set on the lens.

@@PhilUKNet Sorry Phil, but in Manual mode, the letter M will show up in the LCD, you set the Shutter speed and the the camera will still suggest an Aperture, just as in Shutter priority mode, then you select your own Aperture on the Aperture ring on your lens ( A off). And you shoot. You said that you won't get a correct exposure that's where I disagree. You selected the shutter speed, and the Aperture manually. You have decided what should be the correct exposure, and decided to not let the camera decide for you. In manual mode, the correct exposure is the one you the Photographer has decided to use, not the camera, becaus, based on the light situation you are presented with, you concluded that the camera will be fooled, and will provide you with the wrong exposure if you use P, Aperture Priority, or Shutter priority modes. Personally, I always shoot in Manual mode, and never let the camera decide for me. I am the photographer who create the picture, and not the camera, I must be in control, the camera just being a tool. Said that, I am not saying that the camera can ot give you a correct exposure in these mode, it will, but only if you have the ideal lighting conditions, a scene the highlights areas and shadows area can average to me middle grey). A lot more to say about this, of course. In ideal lighting conditions, these automatic or semi-automatic mode will provide you with good exposure (right quantity of light to strike the film, to give you a good negative), but you can still use that exposure as the base to choose your correct exposure, by altering the exposure suggested by the camera, and that would be the correct exposure. Again, exposure is a bit more deep subject of course. To use properly these cameras, the user has to learn about exposure. I love cameras, remarquable pieces of engineering. I own several Canon film cameras (AE1, A1, FT QL, FTb QL, T90, F1, F1 New), I use them all, and shoot them in my landscape photography,just the same way as I would shoot a medium format, or large format camera, means in a very slow and methodical manner. Study tripod, cable release, mirror lock up when available in my camera, etc...keep film alive. What a joy!!!! These cameras, that are between 20 to 30 years old or more, still can shoot for another 40 years, way after you are gone, when well taken care of. Could you say the same thing about digital cameras??? A negative or positive film can last few centuries, and can be still printible, can you say same thing about digital files of your pictures? Of course, this is just my opinion. We just have to keep film Alive. Thank you for producing these videos, that contribute a lot toward that goal.

My T90 has started to die with the usual problems that arise in T90's of a certain age, and I suspect that my two A1's are starting to deteriorate as a result of age. I've never had them serviced and where I live, in provincial Thailand, I don't know of anywhere to get them serviced. I wasn't aware of that little factoid concerning shutter speed. Thanks for the heads-up. Interesting, but with a none too accurate metering system, having a super accurate shutter speed doesn't really matter.

@@PhilUKNet so true, but in 79, oh, the bragging rights were humugous😄

@mikebirkett010 Mine was a 21st birthday present, so I must have got it in '81. It was quite a revolutionary camera at the time. I actually used both of my A1's today. They still look good, and everything still works, but I just get the feeling that the internals are starting to deteriorate. The shutters don't sound quite do snappy as they used to. Still, after 43 years, I can't complain.

Thank you!

Very interesting experiment! My first digital camera was the Sony DSC-P1 and it came with a 16MB memory stick. I bought a 128MB memory stick, which I considered huge. It wasn't cheap, about 80 UKP. This must have been 2001. How the cost of storage has fallen. But you're right, with only 36 exposures there was certainly a lot more thinking before hitting the shutter release. I never found this to be a big problem with the A1, but it was with the T90. The T90 was ergonomically perfect and had a wonderful automatic high speed film drive mechanism. I could get through a roll of film in minutes with the T90. I also cut my teeth with the A1 and it was necessary to learn about exposure back in those days. These days everyone takes photos with smartphones or fully automatic cameras, but probably very few people understand what is going on with the exposure. The other day my wife was struggling to tell me about portraits where the background isn't in focus, but she has no clue about aperture or bokeh. The effects of changing aperture and shutter speed are extremely basic to those of us who grew up with manual film cameras, but apparently most people these days don't understand. I actually have two A1's in good condition, but the other one is still in the UK where I left it 17 years ago. I'm not sure if I will ever see it again, along with some other old film gear that I left behind when I started my new life in Asia :(

Thank you! I really appreciate your comment. Happy shooting!

Very kind, thank you!

I have no experience with Pentax. Has your A1 arrived yet?

Thanks for your comment! If you have any questions, feel free to ask 🙂

That's the first time I've heard the A1 described as sexy!

Yes lol😂, just that some controls are too small that lead to some annoyance

It was a revolutionary camera when it came out and I think it was many people's dream! I believe there are 7 interchangeable focus screens. I have the default SpIit-image/Microprism version that came as standard and never had a need personally to change it. However, it was a handy feature if you did a style of photography that needed a different kind of focus screen.

Thank you! If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Have fun with your new toy!

Hi Jo, thanks for your feedback. Your grandpa had good taste! From the comments I receive it seems that most people either inherit these cameras or get them from thrift shops. It's only old farts like myself who have had them from new! Hopefully, you're all ready to start shooting straight away as soon as your batteries arrive. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks. Hope you found a nice one!

Thanks! Coming from an AE1 Program, many things on the A1 will be familiar but now you can play around with Av as well!

Pleasure! Thank you for your kind comment.

That's right, although the viewfinder goes very dark when the lens is stopped down and makes it quite difficult to see. On manual focus FD lenses there's a depth of field scale that will give you the depth of scale for each aperture once you have focused. I guess it's useful, but in all my years of using the camera I've hardly used it.

You're welcome! Yes, cameras are simply inanimate objects but they can hold lots of memories. My old film gear - and the many photos I took with it - reminds me of certain people and places in my life from the past. All I have now is those memories.

Thank you! I've been using the camera a long time, but I admit that some of the controls aren't exactly intuitive. Canon's official recommendation is to change the battery every year, but I found that they lasted several years and I rarely had to change one. When I moved to Asia the A1 sat in storage for about 14 years and when I eventually retrieved it the battery was dead. However, I replaced it four years ago and it's still going strong.

Great tip, thank you! I would imagine that spare parts are horrendously difficult to source these days.

this so true mine alredy broke and just tape it with saloytape 🤣

Thanks! Light metering is poor on the A1. There is just one mode compared to three on the T90. The camera also tends to overexpose. If you find that your shots are overexposed, dial in some negative EC. When shooting in fully automatic (P) or semi-automatic (Av, Tv) mode you need to have the lens aperture dial set to A. If it's away from the A, the camera will be in manual mode and it will use the aperture set on the lens aperture dial. The viewfinder will show the recommended aperture, which will probably be different to the setting on the lens. I don't really understand what you are trying to describe, but you mentioned setting the aperture on the lens. Whenever you do this, you are in manual mode (M appears in the viewfinder). If you want the camera to set the correct exposure in P, Av or Tv you need to set the lens aperture dial to A.

@@PhilUKNet Thank you explaining it I was trying to describe a test of sorts. Where by setting the aperture using dial on the lens AND by setting your shutter speed to 2 seconds you can actually test out how much the aperture is used and verify that it is indeed working in manual settings. As you mentioned, the viewfinder aperture, when on manual, is a different number, and my way that i described above is my get around to check if i am using manual for sure

@@nazvirsingh1056 With the aperture ring away from A, you are in manual mode. If you set the ring to f/8 and use a shutter speed of 1/125, that's the exposure you will get. If you are in TV mode, you will see 1/125 in the viewfinder plus the aperture needed at 1/125 to get the correct exposure. With the ring away from A, the camera doesn't know what aperture you have set and can't display this value in the viewfinder.

Enjoy your camera and thanks for your comment!

I've had my hands on an A1, AE1, AE1 P, AV1, F1 but never an AL1! I believe this camera had some magic ingredients to help with focusing manual focus lenses. With AF just about to take over the world, manufacturers tried a few things to improve their MF cameras. I don't believe it was very successful, but it's an interesting piece of camera history. Anyway, glad the video helped. Happy shooting!

It is indeed in another video - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJp_atGm39u9caM.html I too have had my A1 since new. It was a 21st birthday present, so I must have got it in late '81. The years fly! I've just about finished dealing with my house problems now so should be able to start making videos again soon. Thanks for your comment!

My wind chimes? I have three just outside my office where I did the video. I love the sound and find it very relaxing. My wife hates them and is always complaining about the noise!

Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful!

Thank you!

Thank you! I didn't realise until later that the same battery is sold using lots of different model numbers. If I had realised earlier, I could probably have got one a lot easier! I do understand what you mean. Digital is far superior in every way possible, but shooting film and focusing manually can still be fun despite all the drawbacks. I don't shoot film regularly, but now and again it's fun to run off a spool of film. It also brings back lots of good memories. Happy shooting!

Thanks for your comment, also very much appreciated!

My power winders are back in the UK, I'm not sure if I will ever see them again. They're handy, but winding the film on manually isn't a big deal. Getting hold of FD lenses shouldn't be a problem. I had some problems getting a battery in provincial Thailand, but you should be able to order one online. If you have any questions leave another comment here. Thanks for your comment!

@@PhilUKNet Hello ! I was able to get a battery , lens and just yesterday purchased my first rolls of film Kodak UltraMax 400. I have just loaded the camera with film and came back to your video for reassurance!

@@astridnolasco9840 Great news, you sound really excited! Feel free to ask if you have any questions, but I think I covered most points and the camera is fairly straightforward to use. Have fun!

@@astridnolasco9840 how'd the photos look?!

Thank you!

Thank you. I started using the camera in the early 80's, so I I'm quite familiar with it. Someone pointed out that I forgot to mention the multiple exposure lever and self-timer function. Unfortunately, I always seem to forget something with every video! Thanks for your kind feedback!

@@PhilUKNet still getting used to it, and you may have already covered it, but do you have any recommendations as to the development stage? and is there a zoom in the traditional sense or is it just a focus adjustment, thank man

@@jewlheist2663 I don't really understand your question. With development stage, do you mean developing film or developing your camera system? There are many FD zoom lenses. They have both a zoom adjustment (ring or push/pull) and a focus adjustment.

@@PhilUKNet the film specifically, sorry it was a unclear question, I'll just rewatch your video and see whats what

@@jewlheist2663 I don't really have any recommendations about developing. These days there aren't actually many places that still develop film. One of my local camera shops provides a service, which I use myself, or you can get it done my mail. I've never developed film myself, but doing it yourself is another option. B/W isn't too difficult, but color is more complex. The other thing you need to decide is whether the lab does the scanning after developing or you do the scanning yourself. I do it myself using an Epson V600 scanner. It's a bit more work, but it gives me more flexibility. I made a video about scanning film negatives with the V600, which you can find on my channel.

Thank you!

From the comments I receive it seems that most people get these cameras through inheritance! Twenty lenses? Wow, you really lucked out there! If you're not sure about anything drop me a line or look through the comments as I've answered quite a few questions already. Happy shooting!

@@PhilUKNet Thanks a lot, on automode it was really nice, and with the 50mm 1.4 i think i got some nice portraits on Ap priority mode. Also inherited an AE-1 (but the film door doesnt lock) and a FTb ql

@@devenirpyro I've never actually owned an f/1.4 lens. It seems as if you inherited some quite desirable lenses! The AE-1 and and AE-1 Program cameras are good too, except they don't have aperture priority of course. I know nothing about the FTb QL. Good luck with trying to find someone who can fix the film door! Skills and parts for these bodies are quite rare these days. Metering is a weakness on the A1. There's just one mode and it doesn't always get it quite right. The T90 metering system was a huge improvement (3 modes) and I consistently got better pictures with the T90 despite using the same lenses and film. In some situations you might want to try playing around with exposure compensation or, if you're really serious, get an external light meter. Anyway, Christmas has come early for you this year with lots of new toys to play with!

That's right, even though the newer design twists like a bayonet mount, the mating surfaces don't rub against each other in order to prevent wear. Thanks for the clarification.

And thank you so much for your comment, much appreciated! I can't find a figure for how many A1's were made, but it must have been a lot and because they are such a well made camera many are still being used. After this video I did another video about the A1 that covered some stuff I forgot in this video. The second video was aimed at people who know very little about cameras because I discovered that many people acquire their A1's through inheritance and don't necessarily know much about photography. That video may be worth watching and if you have any questions let me know!

@@PhilUKNet Hey Phil, thanks for the other video too! I just watched it and have to say you did an awesome job explaining all! 😊 So so helpful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.

My pleasure! Congratulations on your new purchase and if there's anything you're not sure about just leave a comment. Happy New Year!

Initially I looked for a specific type of battery and couldn't find it. I found out later that there are many equivalents. Thanks for your comment!

And a lot of them are still working perfectly as we approach 2020! That's why I stuck with Canon in the digital age. Thanks for your comment.

@@PhilUKNet Early seventies a guy I knew had an Canon F1 and used to do night city photography that blew me away....

Thank you for letting me know, much appreciated!

Many thanks!

Thanks! You make a good point, and this is correct. However, on old cameras such as the A1, light leaks can be a problem. Probably the most common source of light leaks during long exposures is through the viewfinder, so covering the eyepiece during long exposures on old cameras is probably not a bad idea. More about the issue here: www.capturelandscapes.com/avoid-light-leaks-for-long-exposure-photography/

Thank you!

I wasn't quite sure of your question. If you don't want to use the self-timer, but want the shutter to release as soon as you press the shutter release, just set the lever on the top right-hand side to A. If it's on 2 or 10 it will activate the self-timer for 2 or 10 seconds. If you start the self-timer, but want to cancel it before the shutter releases put the lever on the red L or press the battery check button.

Pleasure! Thank you for your comment.

Wow, what a bargain! The A1 uses the FD mount, the same as the AE-1, AV-1, T90, T50 and quite a few others. Canon made millions of these lenses. There are two variants. With one kind you twist the whole lens to mount it, with the other you twist a ring on the back of the lens. However, they will both fit your camera. Just look out for FD lenses and you should be able to find lots. I also have the little grip over the battery cover, but I removed it when I made the video. Thanks for your comment!

@@PhilUKNet, oh cool you replied, thank you :) i got a lens, a button thingy that screws into the fire button, i found a flash that fits it at walmart for 10$ in case i ever need a flash, and got batteries coming. i found a not canon brand power winder on e-bay for 15$ not sure about that one but figured it was worth 15$ to try lol, now i just wait for the bits to arrive and then i can take my first film photos ever

@@seanc8054 I always try to reply to comments. If people are kind enough to watch my videos, it's the least I can do. There were lots of accessories for the A1. The dedicated flash was the 199A and if you can find a decent one it would be a good buy. To avoid any compatibility issues it's probably best to stick with Canon items, although I did use a Vivitar lens when I first got the A1 in the early 80's. Let me know if you have any questions or issues!

@@PhilUKNet the battery finally came in for the A-1 it still works, but it doesnt sound very good tbh, i think it needs oiled up somewhere, the shutter seems to go very slowly, the lens i found is by some company called TOU/FIVESTAR, never heard of them but it was used and cost 11$ its a 1:3.5-4.8 35-75mm auto zoom macro lens, i prolly should have looked harder but i just wanted a lens quickly so i could see if it even takes photos, i'll buy an actual cannon lens after i get it sounding and working right, it's hilarious when i hand a friend this camera everyone's always shocked how heavy it is for such a little thing. i love this camera :)

@@seanc8054 I've never heard of that lens, either, but there were lots of third party lenses with an FD mount. I used a Vivitar 70-210mm zoom before I got the Canon one. It sounds as if the camera hasn't been used for a long time and the shutter mechanism is a little seized. Unfortunately, I don't know how to lubricate it and finding someone with the right skills these days could be difficult. Anyway, good luck!

Thank you!

Agreed, it was a nice feature! After that they just attached a piece of rubber on the strap with which to cover the eyepiece. Cost saving, no doubt, but I'm sure owners wouldn't mind paying a few more cents for a mechanism to do it properly!

Thank you!

I'm pleased you found it useful. Thanks for letting me know!

That's great to hear, thanks for letting me know!

Pleasure. Thank you for commenting!

Thank you!

Thank you! After uploading videos I do have a sense of responsibility and I do try to answer questions if I can. I don't always know the answer and unfortunately that is the case with your battery question. I hope someone can give you an answer.

If there is a situation where the shot is overexposed or underexposed, the information in the viewfinder will flash.

@@PhilUKNet thank you

Good memories!

Pleasure. Thanks for the comment!

@Phil UK Net any day I love my canon A-1 and have been looking for a nice into into its features 👍

Thank you!

Pleasure, I'm pleased you found it useful. Thanks for your comment!

Thank you! Regarding prices, I don't have a clue. I guess the value of anything is only what someone is willing to pay for it. Another factor is supply and demand. Canon stopped making these cameras almost 40 years ago, therefore supply has been decreasing for a long time. It seems that quite a few people are interested in film photography nowadays, but I'm not sure what the real demand is. Also, condition is very important. A beaten up example that has some broken functions isn't the same as a boxed, fully functioning pristine camera that is lightly used and has been well looked after.

@@PhilUKNet Thanks!

Really? I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for letting me know!

Sorry for the delayed reply, but KZfaq isn't giving me notifications again. The 'EEEE EE' error is quite a common problem and is caused by misusing the stop down lever. Try activating the multiple exposure lever underneath the film advance lever and then pull the film advance lever in order to reset the shutter. This normally clears it. With the batter test, perhaps the LED has broken? If you can see the 'EEEE EE' error it means that the battery must be working. Try the 2 or 10 second shutter delay and see if the LED blinks.

@@PhilUKNet sadly i already tried the multi exposure button. and the led wont work on 2 and 10 aswell. also, the camera doesent shutter. im afraid the magnet is broken

@@lecanius Oh dear. It sounds like the camera has multiple issues. Sorry to hear that.

I'll try, but time is always the enemy. Thanks for your comment!

Hi Eve. In all exposure modes apart from manual (P, Av, Tv) the camera will expose to what it thinks is the correct level - not too bright, not too dark. However, in some situations it can be fooled, for example, with backlit scenes or other scenes with a lot of light. Also, the metering system in the A1 only has one mode and it isn't great. The metering system in the later Canon T90 was a lot better and had three modes. In scenes that confuse the camera's metering system (or because of personal preference) you can adjust the exposure manually by using the exposure compensation dial. Moving it in the + direction makes the scene brighter and - makes it darker. With most cameras 0 is normal and the +/- numbers (in f stops) are easy to understand, but the dial on the A1 is different and very confusing. Here's an explanation: 1/4 = 2 f/stops underexposure 1/2 = 1 f/stop underexposure 1 = normal 2 = 1 f/stop overexposure 4 = 2 f/stops overexposure In between each full stop there are 3 positions to enable you to adjust the exposure compensation by 1/3 stop increments. As you will be aware, one f/stop represents a halving or doubling of light. I should have included this in the video, but I forgot ☹️ Hope this helps. If not, let me know.

@@PhilUKNet Hi Phil, Thank you so much for your speedy reply! The canon A1 is my first film camera and I'm getting used to it, however, I had no idea what the exposure compensation dial meant, I really appreciate you explaining it to me! I understand it a lot more now. :)

@@evealexander2382 My pleasure! There's quite a lot of interest in film these days, but these old cameras can be confusing. I get quite a few questions and I'm happy to help if I can. If there's anything else feel free to ask.

Thank you for your kind comment!

Mine was new too. It was a 21st birthday present back in 1981. I always miss something or other in videos. It's easy to add stuff later in web pages, but not video. Yes, I do have the finger grip. As you say, I took it off to get access to the battery. When I moved to Thailand in 2003 I left all of my film gear in the UK. I retrieved some in 2017, but quite a lot is still there including two Power Winder A2s. I also have the Canon LC-1 wireless controller, however, I'm not sure whether I will ever see this equipment again. Thanks for your comment!

Interesting point. With a film camera the image quality should only depend on the film and the lens. What is interesting is that when I moved from the A1 to a T90 the IQ was noticeably better with the T90 when using the same film and lenses. Why? What I discovered is that the metering on the A1 overexposes by quite a lot - about a stop and a third. The metering system on the T90 is excellent. Theoretically, there shouldn't be any difference in IQ, but if the AE-1 Program has more accurate metering it will likely produce better images. With the A1 I would suggest dialling in about a stop of negative exposure compensation. Bear this in mind and do some trial and error to get the right amount of EC for the best IQ.

@@PhilUKNet Good tips, thank you. I wonder if it's the battery power on the A1? I know the light meter on Spotmatic can be finicky if it's given the wrong voltage. I'll have to run a side-by-side comparison with the A1 and AE-1 Program for the light meter. Both rolls I shot with the AE-1 P. came out to my liking, all shot on manual settings, with only a few over/under exposed images which were probably due to user error. I was quite happy with the results overall. I may opt to go back to AE-1 P for future rolls if the A1 proves to be more complicated than it's worth.

@@formaffinity I don't think it has anything to do with the battery, it's just a weakness of the A1. The only advantage the A1 has over your AE-1 P is Av mode, but if your A1 is stuck on TV there is no advantage! Some testing to compare the metering systems would be interesting. As I said, there's a big difference between the A1 and T90.

Thanks for letting me know. Much appreciated!

Pleasure!

Thank you! You're right with your guess. The film advance lever normally cocks the shutter and advances the film. If you move that little lever to the left, when you operate the film advance lever it doesn't actually advance the film. It just cocks the shutter and because the film doesn't move you get a multiple exposure.

It's the old term for ISO - American Standards Association. Turning the outer ring on the dial sets the ASA/ISO. Turning the whole dial by pushing the little black button on the top of the camera sets the exposure compensation. This is also slightly confusing. 1/2 is half the light = -1. 2 is double the light = +1

The only way you can do this is in stopped-down AE mode. If you press in the stop-down lever and turn the lens aperture ring, the camera will select the shutter speed automatically. It doesn't matter if the mode selector is in Av or Tv mode, the camera will behave as if it is in Av mode with the stop-down lever engaged. Be aware that in this mode the viewfinder will look quite dark because the lens isn't at maximum aperture. Remember to advance the film and turn the aperture ring away from the green A before you press in the stop-down lever.

Thanks for the tip. It seems to depend where you live. I couldn't get one anywhere in provincial Thailand. I thought it would be easy to get one from Bangkok, but it wasn't. My brother got one easily in Singapore. I was disappointed that Canon Thailand were no use at all. I imagined that Canon would make an effort to support old products, but that wasn't the case.

Phil UK Net Check Amazon

@@BW-fz5kf I live in Thailand and shipping charges can be quite expensive ordering stuff from Amazon, eBay, etc. That's why I tried to get one locally. In provincial Thailand where I live it was impossible, but it surprised me that I couldn't find one in Bangkok, either. My brother got one in Singapore easily. Batteries last a long time in the A1, so I shouldn't need another one in a hurry! Anyway, thanks for your suggestion.

Duracell 28L from Amazon

At the bottom. Provided everything is working and your battery is good you should see it when the shutter button is pressed halfway. There's also a switch on the top left that turns the display on and off. Make sure it is turned to the right so that the white dot is visible.

That's right, it is only red not green. It was the technology of the day. I remember the first digital watches. They had LED red on black displays, the same as the A1. For 1978 this was very advanced technology!

That's right. When the lens aperture ring is not on the A the LCD will display the aperture the camera should use to get the correct exposure using the shutter speed you have selected. However, the shot will be taken using the actual aperture you have manually selected on the lens. If the aperture is not the same as the camera suggests the shot will be over or under exposed.

Pleasure! Thanks for your comment.

I've never heard of anything like this before and not being able to see the camera, I just don't know. You need to try to get the stop down mechanism back in order to mount the lens, but you know this already. The usual query about problems with the stop down lever is the E's in the viewfinder, but this is very different. Sorry.

I know bro.

@@PhilUKNet yeah I have just got this camera and started to use it for a day. I’m still confused on how to measure the light.

@@thai-stylez You don't need to measure the light, the camera will measure the light. Just point it at the subject and half press the shutter button. The A1 only has one metering mode - center weighted average - and it tends to overexpose.

Pleasure, glad you appreciated it! Thanks for letting me know 😊

Thanks! I think it is a misunderstanding, not a fault. Let's go through a few things. When you set an aperture manually on the lens you are in manual mode and the value you set on the lens WON'T be shown in the viewfinder. If you want aperture priority or shutter speed priority mode the lens aperture ring MUST be on the green A. AV or TV mode won't work when the lens aperture ring isn't on the green A. You talk about having an aperture set on the lens AND being in aperture priority mode, but you aren't. When the aperture ring isn't on the green A you are in manual mode. When in manual mode (aperture ring not on the green A) you should select TV. If, for example, you select f/22 on the aperture ring, it doesn't matter what aperture you select on the dial in AV mode. Your aperture will be f/22 so turning that dial doesn't make any difference. AV mode - green A on the lens aperture ring. The aperture reading in the viewfinder is the one you set on the dial and the camera automatically sets the shutter speed, which you will also see in the viewfinder. TV mode - green A on the lens aperture ring. The shutter speed in the viewfinder is the one you set on the dial and the camera automatically sets the aperture, which you will also see in the viewfinder. Manual mode - set an aperture on the lens aperture ring away from the green A and put the camera in TV mode. The shutter speed in the viewfinder is the one you set on the dial and the aperture value in the viewfinder is the RECOMMENDED aperture for this shutter speed, but the ACTUAL aperture is the one you set on the aperture ring. Does this make it any clearer?

Phil UK Net that clears it all up definitely. I appreciate the detailed reply, so helpful. Thank you so much

@@maxh98492 Pleasure! A lot of people seem to get confused with manual mode when the aperture ring is away from the green A. The camera can control the lens aperture, but there's no feedback from the lens and when you set the aperture manually the camera doesn't know what has been set. Happy shooting!

Thanks for watching, thanks for your comment, and thanks for subscribing. It's really appreciated! I left a lot of my gear in the UK when I moved to Asia, but somewhere back there I should have a couple of power winders for the A1. I never owned a motor drive. Not only are T90s expensive to get repaired now, I don't even know where I would go to get one repaired. No doubt there are still a few places still in existence, but those skills are being lost - not to mention lack of parts. It's sad, but that's progress. Now's the time to get a real digital camera! There are rumours of lots of new cameras coming soon and I think there will be some real bargains with current models.

@@PhilUKNet I've heard of a place in Las Vegas, Nevada that does the T90 repair for the shutter, battery replacement inside the camera, along with the other odd blinking characters on the LCD screen. I think they also do the modification that will not rewind the film all the way into the canister. It is a $150 job overall but that puts it against taking a chance on buying a used outfit that already has had the repairs done and could be less in catching an eBay sale right. That doesn't do you any help but I'm sure there is someone out there in your neck of the woods. I think I will go mirrorless on my new Canon purchase. I've heard of an R5 model coming out but something tells me it will be $2,000 plus so that might take me back a bit. Until then, it will be my working T90 and A-1 to keep me relearning this stuff. I do have working models of the various Canon 35mm SLR's from the mid-960s to the 1986 T90. They are amazing pieces of technology!

@@srx700xxx That's useful to know, thanks. There's a video tutorial on KZfaq about doing the film leader modification - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eqyGl6Rp1Nzegac.html It's quite simple, but you have to be brave enough to disassemble your camera! There is nothing in my neck of the woods (provincial Thailand)! I couldn't even get a battery for my A1 where I live. The R5 sounds like an amazing camera, but I thought it was more like $3,500. Since my kids arrived there is now very little money left over for camera gear 😥

No problems at all, both cameras have the FD mount. If you want a much better, much more modern camera that you can still use all your FD lenses with I would highly recommend the Canon T90. I have done videos of the A1 and T90. The T90 is a far superior camera in all respects, but for some reason the A1 is a lot more popular. I'm not sure why. Maybe it's because when people shoot film they want a retro style camera?

@@PhilUKNet yeah, i have seen the t90 before but I always avoided it because of the display, it kinda threw me off. I'm definitely going to check out your videos, though! thanks for the info!

Hello Lee and thank you! In Thailand absolutely *everything* is available in Bangkok, including film and developing labs. Outside BKK it is another matter. I'm in Hat Yai, which is a second tier city, similar in size to Chiang Mai and Korat. I only know of one place locally, which is the shop where I buy my film and get my developing done. Developing costs 80 Baht for color and 150 Baht for B/W. That's just developing, as I do my own scanning. If you're in a small provincial city or a rural area there won't be anywhere, but some of the Bangkok labs offer a postal service for developing. Online shopping is very popular and you can order film online if you can't buy it locally. My local film shop/lab actually does a lot of business and I'm surprised how popular film still is. You shouldn't have any problems.

@@PhilUKNet Thanks Phil for the information. Happy to hear film isn't dead in Thailand. And thanks once more for the video, I'll be watching it many times over the next day or two. Best

I've heard about this and also the sticky magnet problems, but - touch wood - I haven't had any problems ... yet!

It's a bit tricky, if you think about how the camera works. Fully manual mode is there for when you want to take complete control, so you're on your own. In manual mode, you're telling the camera that you don't want it to do anything, so why should it help you? If you want the camera to assist with light measurement and exposure, best to use one of the semi-automatic modes.

I'm sorry, but I really don't know. I've had mine since new and it retailed for around 320 GBP in 1982. Most people who have left comments have inherited them from relatives and I don't keep an eye on used prices. A few people have left comments about picking up FD lenses very cheaply, but I've heard nothing about A1s. I guess that classic film cameras are like classic cars. They're old, but they are no longer available and the real value is only what someone is willing to pay.

I don't fully understand your question, but I will try. The metering is very basic on the A1. My images using the T90 with the same lenses and film were far better because of a far superior metering system. If you press the shutter half-way or use the bottom button on the LH side of the lens it gives you a meter reading according to the light coming through the lens at that time. As you move the camera around, the meter reading will change. I guess this is what you mean by 'live view' and the camera will give the optimal settings for whatever it is pointed at. If you are using shutter or aperture priority mode and the camera can't physically set the correct exposure readings then the LCD in the viewfinder will flash to indicate that the shot is either under or over exposed. If you use the top button on the LH side of the lens it will lock the exposure and when you move the camera around the scene the settings won't change. However, if you lock the exposure and then move to another part of the scene the camera can't tell tell you how under or over exposed the shot is. The T90 can. There is an indicator in the T90 view finder that tells you how over or under exposed a shot will be if you lock the exposure. If you're still not sure, feel free to ask again. If I have a clearer idea of what you are trying to do I may be able to provide a better answer. Thanks for your comment and thanks for pointing out that comments were turned off for this video. I don't know how that happened.

Phil UK Net well when I half press the shutter it does not show me the recommended aperture and shutter speed it just shows the current settings

@@sam392 What mode do you have the camera in - Av or Tv? Is the aperture ring on the lens at the green A position? Is there an M in the viewfinder? I'm still a little confused because even in manual mode the viewfinder will display the recommended exposure settings and not what you actually have set.

It needs to be a battery that is equivalent to a PX28L, not just any battery. Information I found on Amazon says A544, PX28A, 476AF, 4LR44, V4034PX.

In manual exposure mode the viewfinder doesn't show the aperture you have set on the lens. It shows the recommended aperture for whatever shutter speed you have chosen. If you choose a shutter speed that is too fast it shows you the maximum aperture of the lens, in your case 1.8, and it flashes. This is because the recommended aperture for the selected shutter speed exceeds the maximum aperture of the lens. This is a warning that the shutter speed is too fast and the shot will be underexposed. The M is just to tell you that the camera is in manual exposure mode. Look through the viewfinder while setting slower shutter speeds and the 1.8 will change to another value.

Thank you!