Thank you, Tony! Glad to be of help. 👍

Thank you. Glad you found it helpful!

Thank you, Wes!

Thank you for your kind words. I appreciate it. ☺️

You're very welcome! The T-shirt was purchased a few years ago... I think from Kohl's. ; )

That’s a very good idea! I will have to attempt that. 👍

Thanks, Chuck! I appreciate your comment and subscription. : ) FYI - I would consider you a more high-volume photographer. At most I may take on 4 commissions in a busy month. So the tool you choose to use depends on your workflow and promises made to your clients. Some programs and processes are slower (mine for example in this video), but yield a much higher quality image. Other programs and processes are faster (LR+PS HDR for example), but wouldn't be acceptable for final delivery to my clients. As far as your question is concerned, I can only say that in my 21 years as a professional photographer C1 has always been capable of delivering extremely high quality output. If you look at my website (magnoski.com), you will see I work with some higher-end architects and my process helps me to deliver to them some of my best work. The C1 to Affinity Photo workflow I use is capable of doing everything the working pro needs to deliver quality files to their clients. The same could be said for LR + PS, Luminar, OnOne, etc.. For the record, I ditched LR & PS completely over 3 years ago when C1 finally allowed us Fuji GFX shooters to process our raw files in C1. Plus, I was so sold on Affinity Photo and my ability to do final retouching work and handling color casts with adjustment layers that I no longer needed to be tied to an Adobe subscription. Liberation! You see, it comes down more to your vision and skill level, and using the right tool for the job than sticking to one program that you may or may not feel comfortable with. For me and many working pros, we choose C1 to process our raw files. The ability to have layers you can name and apply different adjustments to is so much better than Lightroom's way of adding adjustments, and the way C1's engine interprets and renders a raw file is so much better than Lr (in my opinion). And when it is time to finish an image outside of C1, some finish those files in Photoshop, while others (like me) choose to finish in Affinity Photo. We are blessed with many quality choices. My simple reply is this: don't think you have to run with the pack in order to create beautiful images. Use and master the tools that help you to best express your vision. God Bless! : )

​@@JohnMagnoski Thanks for not only for you quick reply, but for your thorough and detailed reply. I value your input. As to my workload, the 4 to 10 jobs per month is just a goal for me ... since I've only just gotten everything (hardware & software together) to be able to {what I think will} meet my needs. Just as an FYI, my hardware core is --- 3 drones: 2 Anafi Parrots and my pride 'n joy: a DJI Phantom 4 Pro Plus v 2.0 Falcon Edition. And my main mirrorless camera is a Sony a6000 with a Samyang (aka, Rokinon) 12mm lens, the 18mm - 50 mm Sony kit lens, a Sony 55 - 210 telephoto lens ... and a Nikon 50mm prime with a Sony adapter mount. Also have tagging along: 2 each Sony 1080p camcorders (one that will do 60 fps) ... and a bunch of other basic audio recorders and lights. (And after I watch Matt win his 34th day on Jeopardy this evening, I'll visit your site and see what ya got.) Soooo, John, from this old {74 almost} geezer in N. E. Florida, I thank you again and wish you all the best. And my our Father God continue to Bless you and your family. Grace & Peace, Chuck

Thank you! That is a good idea for another video. I really appreciate it. But if you’re in a hurry, I’d suggest this: phlearn.com/tutorial/5-suggestions-shooting-panoramic-photos/

Sorry to hear that... Which code did you use? It should be SPRING25. Since I don’t have any control over C1’s discounts, I would reach out to their customer service team if I were you. 😉

Thanks Craig! The “01RAW” folder is done before importing images into C1. That’s part of offloading cards to my client folder. I may have touched on that in my original C1 and Affinity Photo workflow video.

Sure thing! I used to photograph artwork for artists and would stitch larger works in order for them to print as big as possible.

I’m sorry to hear that. What specifically are you struggling with?

@@JohnMagnoski I've had Affinity now for about 2 months. Mostly worked in CS6 after Capture. Also Exposure X as a plug in. I guess to understand what all the. Live filters and pixel layers they have. Understanding their lay out.

I understand. And until I can create those types of tutorials may I suggest you check out AffinityPhoto’s KZfaq channel: kzfaq.info/love/QZN-kIrZUQyoTnexM3jJAw

I do, and did it often when I used photoshop. But Affinity doesn’t have luminosity masking as one would expect. Instead you can use the blend range tool (gear icon in layers palette). I find that by controlling the hardness and opacity of my brush, I get to a better result that when I used luminosity masks in PS. However, I do all my raw edits in Capture One and will use their luminosity masking feature to tweak highlights and shadows when necessary.

@@JohnMagnoski gotcha, I’ve spent hours searching for how to do that photoshop technique in affinity. Do you have a video on using the blend range tool for real estate?

In all honesty, I would rather use a tool like Photomatix if I were doing real estate. Then once my brackets are blended, bring the blended file into Affinity to deal with any color casts. There are tutorials about blend ranges: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/adtggtyB1ciWeoE.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5ZnqLSdxLSzYWQ.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sMWFabd8tL2yiqs.html

You still can do it that way, but I’ve never liked the look of automated HDR, even after tweaking. This is the method I prefer for my work which yields greater control and a more natural and pleasant final image.

Fair enough, will have to have a play myself :)

Most of the time, provided you have enough dynamic range available, using the highlights slider in C1 works just fine. But for those instances where you need to pull in the views outside and interior photograph, the technique I share works best.

The versions I am using in this tutorial only support AdobeRGB1998. And it's a very wide gamut to use, especially since I am not pushing and pulling things too much. ; )

@@JohnMagnoski Yeah I understand. But really the main reason to use prophoto is to future proof the file. Thanks for the video 🙂