Thanks man glad it was helpful!

Thank you appreciate that!

I have a 2017 Grand Cherokee. Instead of tapping into the factory speaker wiring, I use a Bluetooth receiver and send the signal to the DSP on a 3.5 mm to RCA. Then I distribute the DSP out back to my factory AUX jack. Tuned! Then the other DSP out goes to my subwoofer amp. Tuned! No cutting wires. No bass limiter. No LOC.

Thank so much!

You are very welcome! I hope this video helps I had a few other guys ask me for a few months about the in-depth settings.

You are very welcome glad it helped!

Thanks so much!

I'm under very heavy assumption that the distance between your ear and the farthest output of your sub/port is venturing up on 140 feet, my guy... In other words, the setting of 1.204 seconds is excessive, unless you're driving a double stretched Suburban. In my own personal experience (of setting up multiple installs), a simple way to get a great value for this setting is by doing a bit of math with a string, some scotch tape, and a tape measure... I'll explain...

Take the string (about a foot in length) and tape it to your vehicle's ceiling centered between your seat and the passenger side a few inches forward from the headrests (where your ears will be located). You can then either tie a knot in the string or draw on it with a marker where the height of your ears is. From there, you take 2 measurements... One from the furthest point your enclosure produces sound from (whether it's the location of the port or the sub itself depending on your orientation/setup) back to the marking on your string. Write that measurement down, in decimal form. Then take the measurement from the string's marking to the center of your front windshield, doubling that length as your "distance", and adding the two numbers together.... Now, I don't have your DSP, but most of them do time correction offsetting based upon the number you just came up with; the spacial distance of your enclosure and it's inherent reverb. The way my HU's DSP works is by entering that distance and it automatically delays the output of the door speakers accordingly (through a calculation) to allow for the subwoofer in the back's sound to travel the distance to my ear enough that when the doors play, all sound from all speakers hits my ear at the same time (which is effectively what you've done in a more barbaric way with your "playing around" and came up with some absurd numbers because of). That all now out of the way and said, while I know my value for this measurement and how my delays are set accordingly, I don't know yours, but I'd be willing to help... If you can get me the measurements said prior, I can get back to you what your values should be closer to, 'cuz they're very likely to be a (much) smaller one than what you've given them. The smaller the vehicle, the smaller those values need to be, so I doubt you're driving a limousine with subs in the trunk to warrant the 1.2 second delay you've presently set up. If you want my help, it's there for you, but it is after all your vehicle and decision to alter as you see fit and you'd know what sounds best to you in it... That, and not all units processing time correction will do it "the same way", so there are variances to be had... As a side note, if you just want a reference to do the math yourself without the use of my HU's calculation, a highly reputable sound company posted these "standard" values as a chart: 5 meters = 292 m/s delay 10 meters = 584 m/s delay 15 meters = 876 m/s delay 20 meters = 1170 m/s delay or 10 feet = 179.3 m/s delay 20 feet = 358 m/s delay 30 feet = 536 m/s delay 40 feet = 714 m/s delay 50 feet = 892 m/s delay (Which, none of these account for reverb, so I'd recommend doubling to self-correct echoing and is more inline with what my HU will typically project.)

@@RAW_Reality thanks buddy. I’ll try it. I just played around for 20 minutes listening till it sounded best. Playing with the bass knob and listening to kick drums and bass response syncing up. As you know, physics is not always logical. The cabin of a vehicle is complex and there’s a bunch of variables inside the electronics going from a head unit through Bluetooth then through multiple amplifiers. I have an inexpensive DSP that might not be calibrated correctly playing through a Grand Cherokee with odd glass panels and a ported subwoofer. Maybe my 1204 ms might be 306 ms in theory. But I’ll try the string and see what happens. Thanks for taking your time to help me out.

@@johnviera3884 I meant to say previously that sound travels at 761 MPH (or about 1100 ft/sec), so if your delay really was over a second, that's more than the length of a football field you're calibrating at (hence the reason I wanted to bring it to your attention). But another thing that I didn't even think about then is that it could just be that some DSPs move a decimal point when relaying information... Like, it'll show "1204 ms" when it really means "120.4 ms", and that'd seem very likely given the size of your vehicle and how it correlates with that scale I listed. Now, assuming that's the case with how your DSP displays, it could be that you're actually _under_ the delay you'd want to be at, as my vehicle (which is similar to yours in size) is a 366ms delay (or what might appear to be 3660 to you). Who knows. 🤷🏻‍♂️😅 But yeah, all things considered, it's up to you to decide what sounds best to you; I just thought the math sounded all wonky and thought maybe I could offer some help... So hopefully everything's sounding great, however you end up getting it there. 😉👍🏼

@@RAW_Reality I just noticed it says “mm” not “ms”. Wow. Did they really calibrate it to millimeters? Or is it a typo?

Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much for watching and the comment! The DSP will output what you input, so if you are providing it a center channel signal it will output that.

You are every welcome I am glad the video helped! Thank you for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Yes you can configure it that way. And you would just lose your left and right separation most people would say it’s not too big of a deal but on some songs there is separation that you would miss out on. Also there is another expert DSP with more left and right inputs that might be useful in your situation.

It didn't used to do that... Since I took it out of one car and put it in another car it started that crap and it's aggravating, have you found another work around besides physically messing with the dsp?

@@1hundredallday close the app. Then re-open the app and log in again.

Yes you can do that. You would just set the DSP so that one single output is outputting right and left channel through the one output.

Thank you man yea I like the expert and audiopipe clean dsp.

The 40hz is for bass

Ohhhhhhhhhhh Yeah thanks

I haven’t checked out the AIR ones yet.

1 amp will be fine.

You should turn off the crossovers on head unit and use the DSP for that.

Correct

Yes

Try disconnecting any other Bluetooth devices. Sometimes the DSP‘s won’t connect if you’re connected to the Bluetooth on your radio so always connect to the DSP first.

Look in the owners manual. I believe the PX8 uses a different app then the PX2

Yes. In this DSP you pick the center frequency which ‘sweep” is. Then you change the “Q” which is what width is . The width around the selected frequency.So yes it does just called diggers names.

@@HiFiVector thank you very much!

Yes, I think this one is better in my opinion

Not sure on that. I have not tried to pair two phones.

Yes. I installed this app on two phones and the settings are saved in the Expert, that is, you can use ten different phones if you wanted to

First narrow down if it’s your amps. Disconnect DSP and go straight to amps and see if the noise is still there. If it’s gone then reconnect DSP and check rca cables and see if you move the RCA’s away from any power cables helps. Then try new RCA’s and check your DSP ground location.

Yes you can save multiple presets

Search for expert electronics in App Store. It has the orange. Color EX on picture.

When you open the app you hit the signal icon on the top corner and you should see your DSP listed and select it. Make sure you don't have any other bluetooth connected to the phone.

The main purpose of the main input gain is to simply set your input RCA gain. The output channels each have their own gain to fine tune the gain to each output channel RCA. If you are confused just set the output channel gains to all the same value ( say 0 )and then just use your main input gain to control all of the output gains together.

You can adjust

I haven’t seen one myself that does Dolby or surround but then again I haven’t purposely searched for one with surround sound either. I would think the deck would also need to have a surround sound decoder as well a ls the DSP.

@@HiFiVector thanks for the response. Im not sure as well. Im just now looking into that part of car audio

App Store apple or android

The Dayton 408 does but you have to purchase the Bluetooth apparatus seperately

This DSP has 3 customizable frequency numbers per channel. This the f1, f2 and f3. Those are the 3 custom frequencies. This is in addition to the main eQ on the DSP. Yes the delay would be same as time alignment …it will allow you to adjust speakers to “hit your ear” at the same time if you have any need for it.

@HiFiVector I think I get it now. If you had any problem areas, you could zone in on up to 3 specific hz. Otherwise, you can only target the areas listed on the master input EQ. Does that sound right?

Correct

So in the bottom left set that at like 20 hz or whatever you want yes it’s like the subsonic. The lpf on the right set to 80hz or what you want the upper frequency cutoff you want.

@@HiFiVector thank you. You're the only help in the English speaking world to get help from on this. Do you run one in your setup?

You’re very welcome. Yes

@@HiFiVector bro. How long did it take you to tune this DSP to your liking? Jeez. So many adjustments I can't get it to sound good yet! Lol. I just can't get the subs to sound as good as when I was only running through my head units crossover. Its hitting hard as hell but it's missing certain low notes that it was hitting before. And yes I've played with the 3 band and q factor. Going to continue to do so. Just curious if you might have had this issue also. Thank you for all your help

It didn’t take too long but I did have to go thru and adjust everything to my liking.

You can save multiple setting yes

Yea try and keep your head unit EQ flat then adjust with DSP. An easier way is to use a lower Q setting ( wider effected frequency range) so if you set your EQ to boost 55hz with a low Q it will boost 50 to 60. That is the benefit of changing the Q. You can have it effect more of the surrounding frequencies or only pinpoint that one frequency.

@@HiFiVector thank you!

@@HiFiVector I'm sorry to bother you again but the instructions are kind of vague on this thing. My question is each channel output only has one RCA. So does that mean I have to buy a Y cable leaving the DSP? Going into my subwoofer amp I mean because it has left and right input. Or can I use one channel to go into the left and another channel to the right on my sub amp? Which would be the better way if you can do either? thank you. I apologize for bothering you all the time about this but really the instructions are not for a novice

You can do it either way if you’re not using all your outputs you can just used to going to your subwoofer amp. If you wanna use your outputs for something else just use one to the amp with a Y splitter.

Just search “ expert “ in App Store.

No, The Bluetooth on this is only to connect the phone to the DSP to use the settings. But this will not bypass your head unit Bluetooth to play music.

Yea

Can you sent me some pics diagram of how to use the crossover or which one

The only thing I can think of is make sure you don’t have any other Bluetooth connected on the phone. That’s the only downfall is on the phone. You can only have one. Bluetooth device activate a time.

@@HiFiVector I've already tried that I even forgot all Bluetooth connections as a shot in the dark.. I'll try the pro version of the app hopefully that does it. Everything works great, except Bluetooth lol main reason I bought it. Thanks for getting back to me ! Subscribed!

Thanks so much man I appreciate that!

App Store , search expert Electronics utility

yeah i agree,, , pretty shitty.. what was your old one???

@@mikeriverajr4447 a Recoil REDSP

@@johnviera3884 i just checked it out. . .that is the analog audio dsp chip interface. . that chip is used in the same razordsp amp i have and the the dayton audio dayton dsp408 . . its a really awesome chip BUT its a ashamed its not used in more places

@@mikeriverajr4447 I had an output level issue with it. I had very low output to my amplifiers. Unusable even with all gains on full power. The Expert PX2 has a better output level.

Usually yes it’s good to start out with your HU flat but if you need to tweak it is fine. Just depends on how your HU was designed. Flat on one HU could sound to flat, while flat on another HU could sound great.

I keep getting noice.whats the problem?

Turn off all other Bluetooth connections. Also hit the wireless signal logo at the top corner and select the DSP to connect.

Yes it has very nice crossovers built in with a ton of adjustments.

@@HiFiVector thank u very much

Thats Intresting, so you can control the gain of each frequency separately ?

@@kaja9917 yep you pin point the exaxt frequency where ever you want from 20 hz to 20,000 hz as well as the width of adjustement and 20db plus or minus gain. .. And i was wrong its actually 10 bands sorry but still 10 exactly taored bands to your needs

Honestly, I believe there are made from the same factory, so it just depends on the features but I think this one still has the most features at the best price

@HiFi Vector I like the bluetooth part and app 👌

No this does not

@@HiFiVector another question... How many volts are the outputs

Watch my other Dsp video explains that more in depth

@@HiFiVector ok thanks

I seen the other video and yes many more answers 👍

Rcas are all new and been replaced 3 times already

Change ground location and try that.

Also can't get this dam smart 3 to stop cutting out on me my voltage is strong too my input voltage is 1.89 volts

And I'm not using the DSP for my subs currently but it still cuts out on me then takes a few minutes to kick back on and turning radio off and back on does not turn bass back on however amp stays powered up entire time so it's obviously a protection of some sort I just can't figure it out for the life of me Its only my second full bridge amp first ones I had problems with as well . I'm running #1 welding cable to it from a 60ah a123 bank with stock alt but voltage holds 14s full tilt weird I mean I understand wire capacity but I don't understand how some people are only using 2 agm batteries with 0 gauge wire and there's work phenomenal.

Everyone has their own opinion but I know a lot of people who run this for a long time with no issues. I never had any issues with mine either.

Lots of reasons for noise but check rca cables, ground location. Keep rca away from power cables. These usually don’t have a noise issue.

If taken out everything and reinstall.still keep getting noise.

This has built in eQ, so no need to use an equalizer separately.