Thanks Andy, thats great to hear actually, not that you have the issues but that the video will help! Rest assured the clunky gearbox and diff issue can be solved so quickly and it's not evidence of it being weak or poorly made, quite the opposite, the running gear is good for 400+bhp and i'm not kidding. One thing I wish i did when i changed the oil for the gearbox and diff is a tube of Holts 'MolySlip' from EuroCarParts. Great stuff and well worth putting in. Makes the drivetrain like butter apparently. The wet boot can also be caused by the rear brake light too which is easy to remove. I took it off and used Silicone sealant where the holes are and have had no issues since. Since I made this video ive done a thousand more things to the car so if you do have any questions drop me a comment on here!

What are your results Andy?

Did it help?

@@CHEEKYlad_lol yes it most definitely did, the diff was much quieter after the oil change. I needed to change the plastic bush on bottom of the gear shifter to resolve the clunky gear change though, swapped it for a brass one.

Thanks Victor! Great time to buy in the winter! If you have any problems or need any more info drop me a message! Have done about a thousand more things since this video

@@TwoWheelTorque Thanks, good to know! I intend on learning a lot about cars in general through this one, I already have a long list of light and not so light mods I'd like to do, it will definitely be a journey! I've always loved driving but that will be my first sports car, I can't wait!

Sad to say it doesn’t have them any more haha but it was good at the time

Thank you for the kind words! To be honest, a diagnostic tool for around £30/$40 will get you something good enough. Consider doing the spark plugs on your NC if you already havn't. I think they are due at around 70k

@@TwoWheelTorque hey thanx 4 that!👍

Thank you mate! It’s the one room in the house I get to sort myself hahaha

Thanks for the sub!

Hey mate no worries at all!! I’m in the works of making another video showing everything I did in total to this car. Comment if you have any issues I generally did everything 😂 Recommend a Facebook page called mx5-Europe NC. Very helpful

@@TwoWheelTorque Wonderful! Will do. Amazing to have a car that has such a following.

Thank you! More to come when the weather is better

Hey thank you very much! And thanks for this! I just had the whole front bumper off and treated underneath too. How do I get these wheel arch liners off? Is the bit I’m looking at towards to front or rear of the arch if you are looking at the car side on. Hope this makes sense but I’m struggling to visualise it.

@@TwoWheelTorque They are easy to remove, just held on with about 3 or 4 plastic nuts, you will see them in the rear arches when you remove the rear wheels. The vulnerable area is at the front of the rear wheel arches, the vertical panel which separates the wheel arch from the sill. Rear bumper bar is also easy to access, but you have to remove the rear bumper, plenty of videos on youtube which show how to do this

Hey thank you, yea I did do this shortly after this video. Never something I had done before but I suctioned out the old stuff and replaced, I did this 2/3 times to ensure the fluid was renewed. great recommendation. For you in Canada I would have the underbody sorted for rust.

@@TwoWheelTorque

Thank you, where abouts in the country is that?

@@TwoWheelTorque Sorry for a very late reply, Shepcote Ln, Tinsley, Sheffield S9 1US

Ahaha damn right. You should be a lawyer finding loopholes like that

Hey John! Ha yes I also did the power steering fluid the same way. Didn’t do the brakes though. I totally agree, it’s a shame people don’t own a car like this at least once in their life. It’s a really great car and reminds you what fun driving really is.

Yeah you’re quite right I would have done that. Tbh it takes so long filming and then with oily hands etc it’s pain to film and do it and really requires a second person. Drop a comment if you ever need help and I’ll do my best!

Yes mate do it. If you’re doing the gearbox you may as well do the diff. So easy once the car is lifted up.

9.30h 9.30h u redu i to to

You’re quite right. FL22 is the standard mazda coolant and is a solid choice. The one I used is yearly which is a bit of a pain tbh.

Hey man, No I don’t tbh, however if you change the coolant (I’ve done it a few times as I did a flush) then you honestly won’t need to bleed it. Ideally fill it with the front wheel on ramps and have the heat on full and fans on, it’ll soon burp itself and then go for a drive and when it cools open the radiator cap. I never needed to bleed it

What ended up happening with this?

Thank you! I went with Motul Eco-nergy. If you type in the reg on the motul site the recommended is motul specific 5w20 (it’s a special Ford oil for duratec engines) most would recommend the 5w30 which is what I went for. I’ve done so much more since the video so feel free to drop a question and il do my best to help!

@@TwoWheelTorque Cheers

Are you sure this is the case? If it gets clogged then surely it isn’t worse at filtering? It’s actually filtering well and unfortunately not got enough pleats.

@@TwoWheelTorque Yes, i'm driving miata's for 8 years now also racing and tuning. Because of the oil on the K&N and manny after market filters it lets more air thru but after a few weeks/months its get filled with dust en becomes worse then a paper or normal air filter. And yes, after market "high performance"filters filter less good so the engine will get dirty over time. Maybe not a problem because some run them for years without any issues. But il keep it in mind. You can wash them again and put spray on it but its the same story over and over again. Your better of with a stock filter. And if you want a high dymo score remove the filter.

Aaah sorry, we are talking about two separate things. I’m referring to K&N oil filters not air filters. The oil filter I used was K&N and is high flowing and good filtering. Totally with you on air filters. Paper filters 100%

@@TwoWheelTorque You Sure?, because most K&N's are the oil sort and only filter well the first hunderd miles after that they get ristricted. imo you should stay away from K&N only use it on track when that last few HP is neccesary. But for normal cars use normal filters. Its very simple, free flowing means less filtering. So a increase in air is a increase in dust. So far as i know there arrent any good high flow filters in the long term, or they get clogged up and make less power then a stock filter. Or they don't filter at all. In that case your better of with no filter.

No I mean oil filter. I mean a filter for engine oil Haha. A screw on metal cylinder which replaces your cars oil filter.

That’s a good shout and I actually did this as I changed the master cylinder and re-did break fluid too. Now I’m annoyed that I didn’t put this in the video! Haha

Hey certainly, I used Motul eco-nergy 5w30. Motul is insanely good oil, possibly one of the best you can buy. Very long time established oil company in France. (Not to start an oil war) Their range has different oils called things like eco-clean, x-clean, X-Cess, they all have different additive packages but the one it recommended for our car is one which is safe for catalytic converters and doesn’t soot up very easily.

@@TwoWheelTorque So just regular engine oil and transmission oil?

Engine oil yes. I do every 5k miles and every 10k do the oil filter. the filter is underneath and taking it off you got covered in oil so with a 5k interval every 2 changes is fine. The diff and gearbox tbh every 40k is fine.

5w30 in the gearbox? You sure

ohhhh nevermind, now I see you dont have 4 ramps but 2, would you advise to just get 4 ramps (its doable, just think about it and you'll see) ?

Thank you very much!

Hey there that’s a great question. Along the side under the doors (side skirt? I’m not sure what it’s called) there is a front and rear jack point on both sides. It’s not far under the car if that makes sense, it’s right on the edge just under the doors. You can see a few lines / indents

forum.mx5oc.co.uk/uploads/default/original/2X/b/b1fc73342e71f8d5695487da5f0975b1842be1f3.jpeg

@@TwoWheelTorque thanks good to know

Late reply, but in the rear you can jack it underneath the differential and then place axle stands under the rear subframe at both sides

I am 194cm, 100kg. With jass seat lowering perfect.

You"ll be fine

I collect them all in a 20L container and take it to our local skip who recycle it. I think it gets turned into heating oil! Make sure you recycle though

Hey Andy, I have a NEXPEAK NX301 they're recently come down in price too! I bought mine on Amazon

@@TwoWheelTorque Hey many thanks for the reply.

No problem at all. Ask away. The air filter is Bosch, from EuroCarParts. The oil filter is a K&N Gold filter. They massively reduce restriction on oil flow and increase oil pressure. You can actually see that on the oil pressure gauge.

@@TwoWheelTorque more mx5 nc videos please I beg!!! 🤣

@@TwoWheelTorque the oil pressure on the instrument cluster on the nc? that's a fake one essentially just follows the rpm but will indicate no pressure when its too late. I can see you're into the science of these issues but I think you're suggestions are wrong, the friction reducer doesn't have any evidence on your mx5 no matter what your mate says, the redex won't necessarily work and could make it worse, the k&n filter won't increase pressure thats just nonsense.....do yourself a favour and really look for evidence and then and only then, you can be confident in your words

I I looked for evidence and have plenty of it. I think you’ve made the correct sentiment but unfortunately not really understood what evidence is.. The oil pressure indicator doesn’t precisely follow RMP it caps out and has a low that it idles at and a max which it hits when going above 50ish. I get the argument that it is just following RPM but the filter physically changed the needle that it sits at max. Not only that but 3k rmp with your foot off the throttle is lower oil pressure than 3k accelerating which indicates it is not just simply faking a link to RPM. Going from a Bosch to a deliberately high flow oil filter has made a noticeable difference on a gauge, on my friends car who now has an MX5 also, his gauge sits a whole needle mark lower in the high RPM. This is because his oil pressure is reduced by a filter which is not prioritising flow. K&N gold did exactly what is was designed to do. The whole MX5 community know this already. So the evidence is out there x10000 On the reddex part, reddex is known to remove carbon build up, I’m sure there are better things available which contain PEA and I’ve used them too but Reddex is widely available and again. I had physical results readable on a screen. Again... something I can measure on a gauge. These aren’t “feelings” or “positive bias” or just “placebo affect”. So again, your look for evidence statement makes no sense. Finally, the archoil.. nano boron and molybdenum are 2 of the most lubricious substances on the planet. They definitely reduce friction. “No evidence on my mx5” apart from not making any sense that’s total rubbish. They work full stop.. the argument is far deeper than just if it reduces friction. The argument is, is it worth doing? A waste of money? Will it be bad for the catalytic converter? What about rubber seals? That’s the question. I have family in the military who work on engines, aircraft and marine. They use molybdenum and boron additives to reduce friction in engines and save on fuel costs all the time. How much evidence do you need?

I dont think you need to really if you do a few long journeys and use a bit of injector cleaner now and again.

Hey mate yes you can, what would you like to see?

Hey yes I did. Used their engine flush then the 9100 friction modifier

Hey, yes I did, I should make another video really! Stay tuned for it!

@@TwoWheelTorque subbed now

I can’t remember if I had by the time I did this video. I undersealed it myself using a wire brush and drill bit to remove loose rust, and then using hammerite with waxoyl (called exactly that and comes in spray cans) I wish though, I’d used Dinitrol which is a much better product

I used Motul Eco-Nergy 5w30. Motul is insanely good oil I use it on my bikes too

Thank you so much you are the man