The engine is not at Top Dead Centre at 2.30 in the vid. The camshafts each have a slot at the front of the shaft where it abuts the bearing cap, and if the engine was at TDC these slots would be visible and would align using the special Jaguar camshaft timing tool.

There are notches on the front of both camshafts by the front cam bearing cap to insert the jaguar tool so to set the cams on TDC, and engine timing on TDC with the timing marks on the crank pully at 0° to the bracket pointer, ( to set engine on TDC fit a DTI gauge in No 1 plug hole & turn the engine until the piston is at it's highest position on the gauge then fit the pointer bracket at the 0° mark on the crank pulley ) , and the rotor arm facing forward to the distributor cap No.1 segment. There is also a TDC mark on the flywheel which can be seen through a hole in the bell housing on the right hand side if it's been fitted on the dowels correctly. Engine timing i think was 8° BTDC at idle. Before undoing the camshaft bolts turn the engine 180° out then remove the top two bolts on both cams then turn the engine over to TDC as mentioned above and remove the other bolts, Don't forget to remove the engine breather cover and with the proper tool slacken the top timing chain adjuster. Early cam bolts were wired together later ones had lock tabs. Do Not turn one camshaft with the other bolted down or you'll bend the valves, when fitting the camshafts make sure that the front lobes of of both cams are facing outwards. Btw, crankshaft end float is 0.003" to 0.005" adjusted by shims at the centre cap. if my memory serves me right. Hope this helps.

I worked on Jags from 1963 till 2011 and number 1 is at the back. The front piston will be at tdc as well. Why remove the cam chain sprockets (wheels) with the engine 180° out, no need to centre pop the sprocket verniers, just use the camshaft line up plate tool (if you have one) in the slot of the cams, the cam slots should be at the top in the centre of the front cam cap with the front cam lobes facing outwards. The camshafts are inlet and exhaust, can't go wrong both front cam lobes face outwards . Some sprockets had 2 bolts each wired, some had 4 bolts with lock tabs, one was a master bolt that went in the vernier to the cam . If i remember correctly the numbers on the con-rod/big end caps went to the exhaust side of the engine. On a rebuild a DTI gauge is used in No 1 or 6 spark plug hole to set the engine timing to top dead centre allowing for lead & lag, Fit the crank damper and line up the timing plate to 0°, make sure the timing marks on the flywheel are on the right hand side so they can be seen through the hole in the bell housing, Time up the camshafts slots, inlet & exhaust front cam lobes facing outwards, Fit the cylinder head, torque down from the centre out, 54 lbf. Fit the top chain sprocket wheels to the cams , take up the slack in the chain, remove the circlips retaning the verniers, remove verniers from sprocket teeth and turn to line up the bolt holes, adjust top chain make sure the plunger is out then lock up the nut. Matter of interest, crankshaft end float is 0.003" to 0.005" adjusted by shims at the centre crank cap . Tappet clearances inlet 0.004" exhaust 0.006". Make sure you fit the 4 longer cylinder head studs in the correct place as the lifting bridges fit there, also make sure the master studs are fitted in the correct positions as they have bigger shoulders and face downwards. Note, cylinder head bolts should be undone from the centre out and tightened up from the centre out, who is this bloke ? .

What I like about Car S.O.S. is that not only does Fuzz obviously know what he's doing, but he will also show other people working on the vehicle rather than taking all the credit for himself. Certain other programmes could do with a dose of such honesty. How do I know that he knows what he's doing? It's his gloves - their gradual deterioration is exactly what you get when you strip an engine for real.

I still have the cam timing tool and the timing chain adjusting tool that I made in 1970. I also made a stand for the head to sit on while I was working on the valves and tappet shim adjustments.

What a great tour of that engine. Thank you!

Timing marks are already on the cam sprockets and TDC on the firing cycle for #1 will align these up , confusion will result if it is reassembled with Fuzzs marks.

I've seen a few of these full episodes now and I'd love it if they did less of the fake drama and more detail work like this.

great to see fuzz uncut .that is what i love the most on these shows.same as when big edd china done in early WD days.take that away and i think a lot is lost.would certainly like to see more of fuzz uncut doing the oily jobs:)

There is a gauge to set the cam’s . in the correct position . The lock wired bolts on the front of the camshaft are securing bolts for the vernier adjustment plate for the camshaft. On reassembly you would need a Dial indicator to measure the correct T.D.C, selection of cam. Tappet shims for (cyl.head o/haul) , rear main crankshaft fibre seal former .

it would nice to see it in more detail.. full nuts n bolts job.. but great work keep them coming

Great work!

That's not Fuzz's normal headgear. But it suits that engine nicely. Always a pleasure, this show.

Awesome :)

fuzz the legend

What a superb video. I really like Fuzz and his work was spoiled by the idiot he presented the programme with. This is so much better than Ant Anstead's take on Wheeler Dealers. Very impressed, thanks.

Never worked on a Jag motor, look like a nice unit for their age. Would have liked to see a bit more of the cylinder head chambers and cylinder bores. A reassembly video guide would also be great showing all gasket and seal replacements ?

Why does he put marks on the cams? They already have timing marks machined on the sprocket flanges for this purpose?

OK, You got No. 1 at TDC but you forgot to mention that the rotor arm must point to the corresponding lead on the distributer to have it on the firing stroke. You don't need the dot punch as you get a little cam tool that slots into lugs when cams at 90 degree. Back in the seventies I did it wrong to the front cylinder and bent the valves. Lesson learned the hard way. But what you've done for dismantling is ok I suppose, not for reassembly.

I've worked at motors all my life and every rubber glove I ever used fell to pieces when exposed to oil, can no one make an oil proof glove?

are and excellent mechanic from Mauritius

Is there a part 2, rebuild ? . Should be interesting.

mate when you coming to Disney with your family? I need the crankshaft bearings replaced in my 3.8 XK engine. Thanks.

очень интересный канал. всегда смотрим. молодцы

Fuzz you are a legend ! Can you help me with my Mini ? 🤔😊

Fuzz you are brilliant but it is obvious that it is NOT at TDC because the camshaft is not showing the camshaft notch at the correct position, you are better than that :), you are on exhaust stroke NOT compression stroke, easy mistake to make.

The leady grey sludge is mainly lead from the petrol combustion, we don’t see that anymore ...

Car SOS TV show fan groot Oost overijsel Nederland ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍Jaguars leuk auto klassiek

I wish these guys would restore my Citroen CX. Too bad I need to be in a vegetative state, clinging on to my life two weeks away from a mortuary bed before they will consider me a worthwhile candidate. Can’t I just get a break just because I’m a nice guy..?

It suddenly came back to me that the Jag XK engine was used in the Scorpion family of vehicles in the British army. 75 mph down the Autobahn (Totally against the rules) in the back of a Spartan was an experience. Don’t tell the SSM. I don’t care what the specs are. The Scorpion family could do 70mph quite easily.

Quite incredible that a drummer can do something like this, and talk at the same time. I bet he'd struggle with a V12 though, as drummers can't usually count to such a high number.

Great shows, great blokes, been to their open garage events which have turned into a pretty decent vehicle met up's too. They deserve to crush fat bloke Mike's show, who I have never forgotten for junkin Edd. 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

If I remember rightly, and it's a long time ago, we use to say don't buy a Jag 11 if it's dead quiet

You're really good at this. You should be a mechanic...

Anyone else think why not use an extension when removing the spark plug?

Number one is usually at the front - pulley end not flywheel end. Is this engine different?

Take it down before the Americans see it and ruin it like wheeler dealers. Worse thing they did was shoe it in America..

Fuzz looks like Pete Townsend from the Who l wonder ??? 🤔

what full episodes lol

Edd China's gloves never split! #justsaying #carsausagelove

Tgreat episode. Even better without tim

I tried finding TDC like that, but with a pencil. It ate half my pencil.

that engine weighs close to half ton

what top blokes in that workshop

I can donate a box of 100 latex gloves.

The numbering is probably because it was designed by the french.

Would be a FAR better show with more detailed work like this in general, and far less of the fake confected 'drama' (oh, will we have it ready in time, ooo-ahhh..well, was one ever not ready by the "deadline"..and if not, then what?? ) and the phony TIC haggling negotiation we are shown when he goes to buy spare parts from specialists..

Fuzz you're Wrong!!!! Jaguar XK engine cylinders were numbered 1 to 6 starting from the front. Aston Martin numbered 1 to 6 from the rear. Also, to another writer, as it stands, the engine weighs about 450lbs. Half a ton (1100lbs) would bend most garage engine lifts. (Jag mech for 15 years '68 to '83, UK and Canada).

Good to see solid work with no interruption., The actual series on more 4 is butchered with adverts every 10 minutes.An hour long episode has over 20 minutes of ads which really is taking the piss.Tonights episode on more 4 is at 30 minutes and already into its 3rd stint of adverts.Money grabbing twats have totally ruined this great show on this channel.I say channel its a bit of programme crammed with adverts well done more 4.

I wish fuzz did this series on his own..his collegue does my head in acting like an absolute Prat..he thinks he’s funny but he pathetic..get someone else to replace him please!!!

FUZZ stop biting your finger nails

main thing I will say for the show is that it is preferable to 'Classic car rescue"..with that boofhead dropping F-bombs and what have you, and the whole thing is a patched-up hack to sell to some plonker...

Amazing, 90 thumbs up and only 2 down. I wouldn't let this guy near my lawn mower.

Sorry Sir, you are an uninformed dill. The camshafts have notches cut in them that, used with the camshaft timing tool included in the tool kits that came with all these cars, align at top dead centre for the front(number 6 ) cylinder. Of course you can do it your way but all the hammers and punches are just not necessary and are bad mechanical practice.