How did you fixed it? Did you do what he suggested to do which was for at least 10 times you drove it 80 mph and coming to a halt at 30 mph is this what you did or just plain bought new pads to fix the squeaking. Thanks! appreciate if you could respond 🙏🏽

@@peterkokoszka422 they said something about running non ceramic pads to a carbon ceramic rotors. It’ll destroy your rotors in the end I think and that’s a bigger problem. Buying new carbon ceramic pads or OEM isn’t cheap either. I know I’ve called a couple dealerships. It suck’s owning such a beast and all you hear is squeaking at low speeds it is embarrassing to say the least..

No worries. We have another video on carbon ceramic squeal if the burn off procedure only slightly helps. Check out out or feel free to track me down on Instagram if you have any questions

Thank you sir! Channel is getting there. More info here than you'll get at all the dealers in LA combined!

Those calipers have 6 pistons on each side! Amazing technology, but obviously lost on the people buying these cars, as there a tons of videos of Urus' careening off the road, not making good use of the brakes.

Definitely important to check and clean dirty or oxidized parts. Good on ya! Just don't put grease anywhere that isn't sealed. A video on this is coming soon!

The stopping power and look of CCBs are incredible, if you can afford them. But they are expensive!

Did you end up getting them? How are they in daily use?

Thank you for this info! I need to send them some rotors to see how well it works. Also would like to test them with the Carbo tec tool

You mean Redisc from Slovenia?

@@HollywoodMechanicwould love to hear the results of your experience with Rebrake. Thanks!

@@aaoaaa I have not gotten a client to agree to wait for them to go to Europe and back yet. I have a rotor coming that was purchased from ebay and we're going to test it and I'll make a video once results are in

It will totally depend on your brake bias front to rear. If you have the stock caliper front and rear, it will be fine. Carbon ceramic pads are harder to work with a harder carbon ceramic rotor, iron rotors and iron rotor pads are designed to work together, so as long as your stock pressures are present, it will not matter. If you upgraded your front calipers to larger calipers (when you switched to CCM fronts) but did not replace your master cylinder or add a proportioning valve, then the pressure to the front will be lower than it should be. Think of it as if you upgraded your engine (or in this case the front brake calipers) to a bigger bore, but kept the stock small turbo (or your master cylinder), then you won't have enough pressure to satisfy the needs of the new larger demand. If this is what you did, then hard braking is going to shift the bias rearward, as you have stock calipers with stock master cylinder. In this case, slamming on the brakes will wear the rear pads out much faster than the front. I would recommend adding a manual proportioning valve in line with the rear brake line to turn it down. Then perform many hard stops to adjust it so that even in down hill full brake application, the fronts will lock up first and slightly before the rears.

You can also just remove your front pads and put them flat on a belt sander and burn off the top layer, this will save wear on the rotor as well, just make sure you keep them flat so that they continue to wear evenly.

Put water in the tank lol

I have not tried using pads other than those designed for carbon ceramic rotors. It's my understanding that the pad material must be compatible to the rotor surface to properly grip the surface. I would imagine a softer pad would be used much faster but I don't know if it would properly slow the car or how it would perform in an high speed emergency stop. If you do try it, I would love to hear the results. But I can't condone it.

@@HollywoodMechanic considering that you work on some of the finest cars on the planet, I totally understand why you can't explicitly endorse it. Yeah I understand that organic pads would deteriorate extremely fast compared to ceramic pads on carbon ceramic rotors. Stock setup is organic on iron, so I think the stopping force would still be plenty. My idea is to get a Wilwood custom setup for my older Mercedes-Benz that would have carbon ceramic rotors that would be 8.5% larger than stock, billet aluminum 4 pot front calipers that have the same piston area as the stock single piston setup made out of steel. A local college has an automotive tech course that is pretty solid. They let students put their own cars on the lifts to do course work. I figured that it would be a good idea to use that opportunity to do something crazy with my car. Basically reduce as much unsprung weight as possible and replace the ancient power and drive trains with something more powerful, more fuel efficient, yet keeps the majority of the car I love. Basically take a 3515 lbs coupe and try to shave 100 or so lbs while doubling the HP and maybe adding some form of electrification while keeping it the same weight. I'm not even sure if I really do want to do this. Most people would suggest instead of spending a lot of money on custom fabricated parts that it would be better to just buy a new car. Somehow though it seems the learning experience might legitimately outweigh common practice and sense, while also being a good way to get a job as a tech after school when I ask them to pop my hood and look at the underside. Should I pursue putting a brake kit that has the same value as the rest of the car itself, I'll keep you updated. It's appreciated that you're one of the few sources to provide helpful information on these brakes. As you know only a handful of cars have them. Thanks again dude!

This info here is regarding carbon ceramic brakes. If you're using metal rotors with some "ceramic" pad, then you're probably getting noise because of poor workmanship by the installer. If they are a racing brake compound, the noise will go away at very high temp while at the same time maintaining better brake fade resistance. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then don't spend the extra money on better pads. Just buy oem direct from your dealer or manufacturer.

There are a lot of factors that cause any brakes to squeak. Especially ones that have a long life. You may have grease from the road combined with brake dust building up on the brake pad and caliper slide points. Also, the slide pins develop corrosion and the back of the pads get dirty and cause vibration against the pistons. You should disassemble your brakes, clean everything thoroughly, use compressed air to clean out the rotor vanes and drilled holes. If the sound persists, the pads can become heat damaged all the way through the pad so that burning the top layer reveals only a slightly more health layer that very quickly reaches the same high tensile strength (brittle) state. The whole pad is going through low heat cycles, all the way to the back, but the surface gets it the worst. If you replace the pads, and you still have noise, the rotors have received too many low heat cycles and they will also lose the ability to perform properly. This is why the carboteq tool was developed. In my experience, cleaning the caliper works when the car has low miles over a long period, like a person that super babys their car. If you drive it a lot, which I assume you do, being a corvette, then the pads are no good anymore due to heat cycle failure. If your car is 10 years old and has 50k or 60k miles on the original rotors, then those are most likely bad as well. On the Urus in this video, the pads had 20k miles on them and they were ruined from low heat cycles. Burning them down would also only provide a few days of quiet. I cleaned and replaced them, and the car is back in a rental fleet with no noise.

I have the same problem on my 2015 C7 Z06 19k miles.. few months ago it was just minor squeaking now the last week it’s like a pig getting butchered. It’s embarrassing sometimes when coming to a stop light. Two years beforehand I’ve had the same problem before this is happening again. What I did before was that I had the pads clean, sanded, and lubed and it’s been ok for two years and now just coming back last week.. I don’t track the car but the previous owner seemed to have track it more than once according to old video in its pdk ..I was thinking of getting new pads but it’s going to cost me at least 3k here in Hawaii through the dealership..before I order the new pads first iam going to try to do what he suggested to do which is to drive it fast and come to a halt for at least ten times starting tomorrow maybe and hopefully that will fix the problem. Second I’ll have to clean sand and lube the pads and hopefully that will also work so I can save up for a 3k pads..I’ll let you know how this works.

I don't like the Carbon Ceramics unless you really are tracking the car hard and are willing to replace them every few track days. Otherwise, if opting for Carbon Ceramic for resale value, I recommend to my clients to remove them immediately and replace with metal discs and pads; then to vacuum seal the carbon ceramic rotors and pads to be reinstalled when sold. LOL Only way to stop the oxidation.

@@HollywoodMechanic thanks, doing that is smart because I read you get bigger brakes opting for PCCB and you could resell it also. Definetely worthy