Glad to hear it. Enjoy

Haha yes. Keeping costs low or profits high 🤷🏻‍♂️

Its work does not depend too much on the processing power of the CPU. Our CPU has many advantages, such as low power consumption, dual USB, and high reliability.

@@neohu8856 Yep but it is slow to boot. If it had a faster processor I am sure the boot time could be significantly improved.

​@stevemhouse how are we talking for Carplay to boot?

@@neohu8856BS pal.

Awesome glad to hear it. For anyone reading this, what car make, model and year are you using it with? As it might help them decide.

@@CarPlayLife I am using on a suzuki ciaz 2018 model which has inbuilt system which supports both android and apple car play wired.

Multiple device connections has yet to be done well on these things. The closest way is adapters that support auto connect off, that way you can toggle which device it connects to rather than have it auto connect. Sadly you may still have to remove BT connections that have already connected. It’s ideally suited for when one device enters the car and requires switching. That way there is no BT pairing fights going on

Yes. It works pretty smart these adapter.

Yay! Thanks for sharing and watching

Awesome!! 🙌🏻

Thanks for sharing. There’s a number of adapters now adopting the ‘background mode’ setting which when off never shows a launch screen.

Thanks for watching and the feedback. For your situation. If you use a wire for CarPlay, does it also still show black bars? If it doesn’t then it’s a compatibility issue with the adapter not sending the correct video radio for this car’s display resolution, hence the boarders on the sides. If it does show this on wired mode then this is how it is. Thanks for the feedback. When you say less categories on my site, do you mean Carplaylife.com? If so I have been thinking of reworking this, but it’s a daunting task going back to arranging content as far back as 2015! 😞 As for the table, this is always evolving so having this presenting somewhere live would be my goal but I feel other sites will just pinch all my hard work with a screen grab and I lose all the views. Having the info concise to the part in the videos at least keep it somewhat contained and secure whilst keeping peeps informed.

Thanks for sharing your experiences. It’s odd how they are not stable in the Nissan. All I can suggest is playing with the config menu and its mode settings. So if it helps improve stability. You shouldn’t need to restart your phone, if anything, it’s more the system isn’t liking how the adapter operates so changing its config options might make it work around it a bit better.

@@CarPlayLife Thanks for reply. Helpfully their support responded in a few hours. They told me to reset the network settings on my phone so I've done that and will see how it goes. Will post back here.

@@CarPlayLife Ok update as promised. I updated to ios17 and all my problems seem to have gone away! The phone seems to connect every time and quickly too. I'm not sure if ios16 was buggy with carplay (I had to restart my phone a lot of times when using cable too) if if the update gave it the kick in the guts it needed. It's all working now anyway!

Glad it was helpful! And I hope you enjoy it

GPS on should mean it uses gps passthrough from the car antenna. Actually testing this is a bit tricky. A quick way is to rotate the phone and if the maps moves on screen it’s using the phone gps/compass orientation than the car. But I’ve found that this can be also a hit n miss test to accurately test gps passthrough. I’m still trying to find a more solid test.

I guess you’ve played with the IP config area and the various modes within that? The 5.0 is working differently to previous models so it might be extra compatibility for other vehicles has killed this functionality in yours 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@CarPlayLifeI hasten to inform you that the problem has been fixed in the latest firmware update.

Thanks for watching. This setting is new to me. I assume it’s likely a setting for the dongle to switch between 2.4GHz and 5GHz band, 5GHz band will offer a fast bandwidth wireless connection but at the sacrifice of a short signal range. I’ll have to update to see this setting and try it one day.

So the adapter did have this and it showed very briefly before going into CarPlay, but, I did an update and now it’s black screen during this moment and I can’t seem to see how to change that in the IP config menu. There’s no option. So for two iPhones you would have to manage this on the phones themselves by disconnecting BT on the one you don’t want to connect to. Saying that though there is an automatic connect option. Maybe if that’s off you might see the screen again. I’ll try and find the time to get this and update you when I have.

@@CarPlayLife Thank you for the reply! 🤞 Turning off auto connect gives the option as it's something that could make life way easier for our use case. Thank you for the quality videos, and follow up with things like this! Really appreciate it!!

I know this video is several months old but will this allow connection of android phone with car head unit that has carplay only?

As in next and previous track? That should work so if it doesn’t that’s likely a compatibility issue with your pioneer and wheel controls. You can try running different modes from the up config menu and see how you get on there but I don’t know what else to suggest other than filing the issue with support and hope they offer a fix in a future update.

In my experience, these wireless adapters are not that reliable on android OS aftermarket systems. This adapter will only work with AA connections, it can't do CP to AA or AA to CP. For that you'll need the 4.0 which works differently to how the 5.0 works. Hope this helps.

Most CarPlay usb ports have 5W max charging power. It has to power the adapter also, so if you use passthrough to charge your phone it’s going to be much less than 5W, meaning your phone will trickle charge at speeds that may be ok for light use but if using CarPlay, music and navigation at the same time it will get hot and not hold out build its charge.

It’s not that much different. If it works for you and you are happy with its speed, and you don’t need Android Auto support, then there isn’t much need to upgrade.

I was just about to ask exactly the same thing, as my v3.0 keeps giving black screen and drop outs. Amazon selling this is £55 today. 🤔

I’ll check this out when I can.

Leave it as is. If it’s working to an acceptable level, leave it. You can try media delay at around 500 (you could try 300 but likely unstable) and this will speed it up a little a be more responsive to touch

They don’t make these Dongles switch between phones that easy. This particular one has the ability to turn auto connections off You can get to this either via the Settings menu on the Dongle’s home screen or by going to the IP config menu after connecting to CarPlay and switching it off there. Then when it comes to toggling which phone to connect to you simply tap it from the list, on the Dongle’s home screen.

@@CarPlayLife Damn this really sucks, thought it would be as easy as turning off bluetooth on one device and using the other.

The speed difference is almost double 16s for 2Air and 30s for the mini. So if that’s important and you’re only using it for CarPlay then go 2Air but it’s around 2x the cost of the mini

The quad lock adapter is a rebrand of the 4.0. If you don’t have Android auto in the car and you wish to use it on a CarPlay only system then the 5.0 won’t work this way you’ll have to get quad lock or 4.0. If you have CarPlay and wish to just make it wireless CarPlay then the 5.0 is a bit faster.

I can’t say what’s compatible but sounds like you need an AI Box if you want video from those apps. Try a CarlinKit TBox plus or ottocast Picasou 2

If you wanna do that wirelessly then yes 👍🏻

I prefer the 5.0 as it has GPS pass through and a better config system to tailor the experience.

5.0 is faster by 9seconds in my test when booting into android. But you must have Android auto on your car system. If your car system only has CarPlay you’re limited to 4.0. Latency is roughly the same, but can be tweaked in the config

If anything, newer models should be more compatible with newer vehicles. Not the other way around. Especially when it’s a 2023 vehicle. So I would give this one a go.

If there’s no lights coming on it will likely mean it’s bricked itself and is now dead. The update may have failed midway through which usually bricks them as they don’t have a fallback firmware so it’s overwriting the main firmware as it updates. If this fails it’s dead. Sorry. The 5.0 is better, but your car needs wired AAuto if you want to use it for AAuto. It works differently to the 4.0 which uses CarPlay to operate for both CP and AAuto.

Thanks for watching. Switching platforms isn’t the best on these adapters. No one has done it perfect. This adapter does have a menu to toggle which device to connect to. You just have to make sure auto connect is switched off. This allows you time to select the device you wish to connect to. But there is a chance the other device has connected over BT and that locks the other device out from connecting.

I can’t really confirm as I’ve not tried any of these in a BMW

It won’t work because you need a working CarPlay port for these adapters to work. You can’t add it from a power usb port.

Can you install Android apps onto the head unit? If you can you’ll want an adapter that works with an app. I have a playlist for them on this channel. Otherwise these wireless adapters won’t work without otherwise as they’ll need a CarPlay usb port to work.

I’m not sure about Sony HU. I hear they can be a bit picky on what works on them. Buy it from Amazon and you’ll get easy returns if it doesn’t work with it.

If you’ve already booted into wireless CarPlay and you connect the cable it will stay on wireless mode. You would have to disconnect the adapter with it connected to a cable via the usb port for it to boot into wired mode.

CarlinKit 4.0 or Quadlock CarPlay adapter (same thing as 4.0) has usb passthrough.

@@CarPlayLifeThanks! I have an android unit with no carplay and want to plug in instead of wireless

Try playing with startup delay in the IP config settings menu. It feels your car system isn’t ready for the connection so adding a bit of a delay will help and time the sync much better.

It depends what you have on the wheel. But in my experience, every 20+ adapter I’ve tried allows skipping tracks back and forth. Sometimes wheel controls will not work until the car is properly started for the wheel to send signals to the stereo.

Just the first time. After that it’s automatic.

They are just to convert wired CarPlay to wireless CarPlay, so no need to plug it in to use CarPlay. If you don’t want to use CarPlay and are happy to use audio over Bluetooth instead then there is no need. It’s purely a CarPlay thing really.

2014 is unlikely to have wired CarPlay? You’ll need that for this to work

Turn off?! That’s strange.have try a different cable or check the port for fluff

Yes you need either CarPlay or Android auto already on your system (depending which adapter type you choose). For Android head units you need something like these from this playlist kzfaq.info/sun/PLysOHeJ5BkMj-ov6_61XEGpj9AbbM0QYM&feature=shared

Yes it does and it will be worse than BT. This is how they all work. WiFi is slower than BT for audio delay.

Sorry I can’t recommend an adapter without trying it in the specific car itself. The 5.0 would be a good start. Buy from Amazon for easy returns if it doesn’t work in your car.

Go into its IP config menu when connected to it and tray adjusting some settings. I would try display mode first and see how you get on

So they don’t or might not show a menu interface to tell you it’s working. But the adapter should light up red once plugged in. Next go to iPhone and in settings > Bluetooth look for Autokit to appear. If it doesn’t turn BT off at the top switch and back on again and wait a few seconds. Once you tap it accept all the prompts to connect and then the system should show up CarPlay

But there is no prompt showing up. (Im on a different account)

There is no prompt. You have to connect to BT first. If you don’t see it come up then there are problems.

If you’re not seeing the BT profile from the adapter it isn’t booting up or being powered, or the update bricked it and it’s not fully booting up to transmit the BT connection. However if you can connect to it via WiFi it is running. Maybe try an older rollback firmware or if it’s in your return window send it back

You need the 4.0 for that scenario. The 5.0 wouldn’t work this way.

I wish I had a car that does this to tell you 🤣 Usually, I thought if it does it over wired CarPlay. It should also do it over wireless.

Hey! Have you got any answer? I'm having the same concern :)

@@CarPlayLife That's what I would have thought as well, but there are differences in behaviour - Ottocast U2 Air puts Apple Maps directions in the instruments, but CarlinKit doesn't. I decided to get the CarlinKit 5.0 anyway, and it turns out it doesn't support it either. It could probably be easily fixed via a firmware update, perhaps @neohu8856 could shed some light on this issue?

@@ahmedsadek9546 Finally checked this myself and no, neither CarlinKit 4.0 nor 5.0 support this feature in my car. So far, only the Ottocast U2 Air does, but then that dongle doesn't support GPS pass-through, which is very handy if the phone is in your pocket, and greatly reduces battery use as well.

CarlinKit 4.0

I assume you want to connect to an android for Android auto wirelessly?

@@CarPlayLife Yes.

I think the A2A will be similar to the 5.0, maybe see what's cheapest and from a place like amazon so you have easier returns should it not work.

The 3.0 mini is about 1/4 smaller than the 5.0. Speed wise the 5.0 is 10s faster to connect. Switching is just like when using wired CarPlay. So press radio and you’re in the radio. Press CarPlay you’re in CarPlay. It doesn’t take it over. Your golf needs wired CarPlay also.

No, you will need a wired android auto car system for these to work

Not the 5.0 you’ll need a 4.0 for that purpose. The 5.0 doesn’t convert but the 4.0 will do.

If you also want AA then the best option is either 4.0 or 5.0 CarlinKit. There are other 2in1s out there but the autokit software these run are better overall for fixing and tweaking (should you need to).

@@CarPlayLife Thank you so much for your comments!

Slow to connect? You only have to pair it once and it will auto connect after. So it should be quicker next time you boot it up

No you need an AI box or 3in1 for that

@@CarPlayLife What is the name of the iOS app to use KZfaq?

You won’t run Android auto from an iPhone, it’s either iPhone to CarPlay or Android to Android Auto. It should allow control with the dial/knob. I’m not sure about touch pads. If it works for CarPlay, it should be similar to that.

No I don’t think it works that way. You’ll need CarPlay functional and selectable in order for this adapter to work

If you can run CarPlay from a usb port you could try any really. If it’s wireless only i am not so sure as there are specific boxes for bmw (maybe audi too) that allows this type of connection.

It’s not really necessary. You lose wire passthrough on the 4.0 and the 4.0 is a little faster into CarPlay from boot than the 5.0 in my experience. If you were using it for Android Auto, the 5.0 does have some advantages in speed there.

It’s going to behave as if you’ve connected a phone via wire. So if it needs permission by pressing something on the display, when plugging this in, it might likely do the same by asking the same prompt before the dongle is to be recognised. So it’s unlikely it will solve you’ve issue but you could buy from Amazon and send it back if it doesn’t work.

Subaru and Mitsubishi are known for being very picky with these adapters. So I can’t say which works without trying it on those vehicles myself. Maybe buy the CarlinKit 5.0 from Amazon so you can send it back easily if it doesn’t work.

@@CarPlayLife thanks so much ❤️

@@anonymoose2145 , how is your luck with Subaru + CarlinKit 5.0, is it any good (if you happen to try it out)?

@@Terminatorm101 hey there! I picked it up and it works great! Goes from blue tooth to CarPlay in less than twenty seconds. The only thing is that there is delay between the audio. So if you have in a KZfaq video or are on a call, there will be a noticeable 1-2 second delay. It’s not game changing in anyway and I 100% suggest picking one up. It’s never disconnected while driving or anything. The only time I’ve had issues is when it’s trying to connect to my home wifi and CarPlay at the same time after I’ve been in and out of the car lol. Highly suggest!

@@anonymoose2145 wow, glad to hear a positive feedback from an actual Subaru user! After some vids I was almost settled that a vire and a phone in a cupholder is no that bad of an option at all 😅 Usually my car is quite near the home wi-fi, so I believe there might be some issues until I disconnect my phone from it 🤔

This has been a very recent issue that I’ve personally experienced. I don’t know how to resolve it. The phone is connected over WiFi but apple carplay doesn’t display. Manually tapping initiates wireless CarPlay but it falls back to the system display before it shows CarPlay. I haven’t found a work around and it must be a recent update to the iPhone that has caused this issue. Maybe a 5.0 update will release for the adapter once more people complain about it. For now I’ve swapped to a U2-Air Pro which also has the same issue but it’s now displaying again on this dongle. It all sounds very temperamental. Update. I am on 17.1.2 and see there is an update 17.2.1 which I’m downloading now. Maybe this improves things. Update 2: installed update 7.2.1 and it’s working again now.

I’ve never heard of it. Sounds like a copycat rebrand if you’re asking. Edit. Just checked and it’s likely a rebrand of the Ottocast max. CarlinKit rarely OEMs their adapter tech.

This adapter will not do video streaming. You need an AI box for that. Carbridge requires a jailbroken device or similar which I don’t trust personally.

If your car system has navigation then it has a gps antenna, gps passthrough uses this antenna for use with navigation apps via CarPlay. Otherwise without this it uses the iPhone antenna, and if the phone is in a bag or back pocket it won’t pickup the gps satellites as well as an antenna from a car if it was using gps passthrough. Hope that’s clear.

@@CarPlayLife hi, I have an interesting question and hope you can share some light on it. I have a grey import car that means it has gps antenna but no local map data, will that actually affect the gps pass through function?

The experience is the same. The same menu is still there for CarPlay. With its auto connect option. There is no menu for AAuto. 5,0 is just slightly faster in processor so it gets you in a little quicker. If you’re on 3.0 and it works for you there’s no significant reason to upgrade IMO.

This adapter won’t cast video over AirPlay

No you need an AI box or Android OS based adapter for that - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fqqpYKR0xLOqpmQ.html

Is it the same for any other nav app or just Waze? I remember hearing people mention things like Waze delay in navigation. I’m not sure if you can set advanced turn warning timings in the settings area of the app?

You mean it disconnects you and you can’t reconnect to it? Does it work if you unplug and reinsert afterwards? If so try going into the IP config menu and make sure auto refresh and auto connect is switched on.

If it works like this wired, it will work the same wireless.

It should mirror exactly how it works when plugged in wired for android auto, just with the adapter it happens wirelessly

5.0 if multi-user support is a requirement, and Air Pro if speed is more important, but the 5.0 has more offerings, so I'd go 5.0 if it was me..

@@CarPlayLife thanks man! It’s arriving today. Keep up the good work and happy holidays!

@@gabevdmhow is it? which ones better?

CarlinKit 3/4/5 or ottocast air/air pro seem to work fine on my pioneer 93DAB

Quad Lock is the same as a CarlinKit 4.0. 5.0 is just a little bit faster but no Android auto on CarPlay only system like you can on 4.0.

@@CarPlayLifethanks for replying, what CarPlay adapter would you recommend for long drives using Google maps?

Every time. But it’s likely you VAG system will be like mind and turn on when you unlock the car. So the adapter turns on before you start the car meaning those seconds are shaved off and it’s only a few before you see CarPlay. As long as your phone it’s connecting to is nearby.

Remove/forget the BT profile on your phone and forget the wifi network also, and start again

@@CarPlayLife ok I’m trying now. Thanks.

@@CarPlayLife I tried it a few times and still the same thing. My car may not be compatible. I’m putting it in a 2012 Nissan Maxima. I try to contact/email them before I send it back. Frustrating. Lol. Thanks for responding. That means a lot. I will definitely sub.

I’m still using it in mine. Currently replaced it with the Cuarko I reviewed on Friday atm to compare its long term use.

No you need a 3in1 adapter or AI box for mirroring. Something that had an android is to run a mirroring app on to your CarPlay display.

Try the Ottocast u2-x pro kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pMB4edOLqtzZhok.htmlsi=ly_zoVl4zB58Uamg

That’s from engine/key start to seeing CarPlay on screen. This time will seem less if you have it connected, unlock the car and by time you’ve sat down it will appear much less as the adapter has already powered up when unlocking the car.

It works just fine down there. The plastic doors don’t seem to affect performance too much, if anything, heat may become an issue in the warmer months than signal

It doesn’t need any app from any store to work. Sounds like you got something different to what’s in this video.

Yes no problem. Unless modified, the usb port it is connected to should power off after a time.

Usually the adapter and mobile will reconnect if it were to loose connection.

I’m not sure about JVC. You can only try. Buy from Amazon for easier returns

@@CarPlayLife yes it arrived works great .

Awesome. Glad it’s working great for you.

If you’re thinking of using android with a CarPlay system then you don’t want to consider this dongle anyway. It won’t work like the way the 4.0 does. So avoid this altogether. Wheel controls, seems to work just fine and call history is handled via CarPlay anyway so that works and native voice control works in my VAG car so Audi should be the same.

This worked with a Pioneer 93DAB, many do

It’s more to do with what car and system, than your phone. They need wired CarPlay to work so your car system needs that most of all

@@CarPlayLife my car has wired Apple CarPlay. It’s a 2020 limited Palisade by Hyundai.

Then the 5.0 would be a good starting point for you. That’s what I would try first.

@@CarPlayLife thank you for the recommendation.

It’s possible. It needs wired CarPlay to work.

All wireless CarPlay adapters ‘fool’ your wired CarPlay system into thinking an iPhone is connected. So it’s emulating a connected iPhone that is receiving the CarPlay ‘display/audio and touch input feed’ from your iPhone and it displays this onto your CarPlay display. There are two ways (or code) how this is done (or emulated) AFAIK - CarlinKit and everyone else that shares the same what I call ‘fullscreen UI’ code. So to answer your question isn’t so straightforward… Yes it’s using your native CarPlay to communicate, but it’s being emulated to act wirelessly by the adapter so your phone can communicate with it. Remember, CarPlay is just video stream from your phone. You’re not interacting with software on the car system itself, all the work is being done on your iPhone and this is just being ‘cast’ to the display over a series of CarPlay protocols that the display knows how to display it whilst also sending and receiving touch input to and from the display and your phone. To use wireless CarPlay natively, you would need your car system to have this hardware built in. Hope this helps.

@@CarPlayLife Are there any security concerns with using these dongles? Is everything still encrypted? Or are they able to see your info and stream/copy it to wherever they please?

4.0 and 5.0 only work with CarPlay systems. Not android head units. For that you’ll need one that works with android head units like this one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZ10lLaSsKzFdYE.html

The latter. You need CarPlay or Android auto for this one

Sorry it is: Channel #: 149 (changeable) Frequency 5745 (changes with band) Channel Width: 80MHz Channel Band: 5GHz Wi-Fi Standard: Wi-Fi 5 (n,ac) Signal dbm -55 Signal noise ratio: 39 Max data rate: 866.7!!! Wi-Fi brand: Realtek Semiconductor Corp. Wi-Fi security: WPA2-Personal

I think blue and green is based on type of connection. Green for CarPlay and blue for Android Auto. If it works for you and it’s blue then no reason to be concerned

@@CarPlayLife when entering the car, some times my phone connects to the car and this causes a delay for Android Auto. Also, I have to unclick an click the wireless connection to my phone in order to connect...

Try adjusting launch delay in settings. Or turning auto connect off and manually tapping connect when you and your car is ready