As Good As It Gets? The other one I’m not sure. I know that’s not Clint Eastwood but Escape from Alcatraz?

Do you have the anti-kickback stops for your Festool saw? They mount right on the side and you'll never have that issue again on a plunge cut. Quality work. I've been watching your progress since the beginning.

The Bucket List (2007) and The Great Escape (1963)

Would it not be easier to empty the sawdust by taking the whole thing outside? Is ther a reason why you needed to dump it on the ground first?

The Great Escape, Richard Attenborough in the tunnel, seen Jack Nicholson but can't remember that one. Oh and that door is a thing of beauty, and now I'm off to watch the Great Escape.

With all those machines, who needs to be an expert.?

What about the Birkenstock security shoes ? 🙃

Great job...... should have done door frame.....next project in future. Love from Dublin Ireland X

Is it Own Molloy the metal worker??

Cut the cords off hoodies too, I nearly got decapitated when I was leaning over a car engine and the fan snatched it. that's a feeling that keeps me up at night

Indeed. In one way the old door worked for me. The very wear and tear on it was a work of art. And it fitted into the old door frame like husband and wife. The key hole was magnificent. What would they have done in the past? I think a broad, thinner, old plank would have been attached over the bottom to cover the wear. If security is a problem then I would have no problem with fixing a high security lock through the door, leaving the old latch as original closure means.

Yes you do have a point, repair is always best than replace if at all possible. Was that old door salvageable?

I had the same thought: at least put some linseed oil on the planks before assembly.

I agree about his skill, and I especially agree about loose clothing around shop machinery. Loose sleeve near the belt sander was scary. I have seen what can happen, it ain't pretty. Also that young man using the drill press who was wearing that pink twirly thing around his wrist. Carpenter's apron helps, tucking in helps, sleeve covers help. Safety first. Great work!

@@rickcavtube Cheers, Rick. Glad we're on the same page.

You just took shots at bourbon moth

@@saliyalokeshwara7055 The Kramer bit is just too much sometimes

Also no dumb unnecessary music

But he could bury the wind charms, how can you live with those?

@@johnleaper9711 But I really like the chimes!

thats how i feel too about youtube.. of old songs..and videos my mom would have loved it ,, she often sang around the house . i know a lot of old song hearing from her singing and when i listened those song on you tube i cry thinking of her and how she would have loved to see and hear from youtube .

Did he also have a ton of money to spend on power tools but fail to use them correctly causing costly mistakes and only occasionally have to pull out the block plane and handsaw to bail him out when something requiring electricity couldn't be used all the while wearing birkenstock sandals and ear muffs for a pillar drill (??) and sponsored by Festool? Forget the "Norm Abram approach" with power tools. Angle yourself to a "Paul Sellers method".

@@mdr_random what happened to you friend? Are you ok?

Did you ever find out the name of that saw/jointer unit?

Me too 😀

Does anyone know what the make and model is?

I found this: holzkraft minimax c26

Lurem also do similar models

That was less of a router and more of what’s called a shaper. Be prepared to drop $10,000

much appreciated! really useful and well said so thanks for taking the time to write that :)

@@carlroge I'm sure there are other doors you can apply these advice on :D by the way thank you for restoring a piece of french history, the built looks quite premium so I guess it belonged to some local lord or whatever aristocrat family

i have to add a lil thing, on the plainer, you have to press it down, but on the 2nd half of the table, the half behind the cutter. Exactly how he did on the last few inch of the boards, thats how you have to do the whole board. Thats how to get a plain surface out of a bend board. And for that you have to lean over the cutter, so dont wear lose clothes, for safety ;) Also i hope there are no kids using this heavy door, since if it catches wind this can get quiet dangerous, we have used damper for such huge heavy doors (like at older cars trunk) to limit the speed of movement. Also nice work carlrogers. *Not my native language, hope it was understandable, cheers.

Good comments - the braces aren't doing anything once they are at more than a 45 degree angle - that's why for a wide door they don't go right across - if that makes sense :) and use the planner to take the majority of the 'thicknessing' process of the board - its quicker - once its down to nearly the correct thickness then pass it through the thicknesser

Completely agree on point 3. I've learned that "wood must stand on and steel must hang from the hinges". And indeed, one often sees wooden braces "hanging" instead of "standing".

thanks amigo, so tour scheduled for 2031? :)

Great video. Cool door 👍👍👍

My favourite timber. Guess they are lucky guys from the sawmills mistake. They will have paid a fraction of the price for oak boards otherwise.

Other than the fact that they don’t wear masks for the dust

@@stephencooper3480 this is true. I always try to put my mask on but do forget time to time.

Gee they should sell that saw dust to people who smoke meat fish etc

luberon...

What's the purpose of the oil?

Yes, I love all the tiny details that help complete the 'job well done'.

@@micikas Makes it easier to drive them into the wood. 👍🏽

Goose fat would be more traditional, 👍😁

Vaseline (petroleum jelly) works well too.

The door sets under a roof and it doesn't appear he lives in a rain forest. lol

@@cletusspucklerstablejeaniu1059 LOL Rain gets wind blown, and water off the roof will also get wind blown, onto the door. That's why the original door was rotten. .

@@niklar55 ... Uh ... You do know this was a livestock barn ... A "300 year old livestock barn!"

@@cletusspucklerstablejeaniu1059 Naturally, I have two, also in France. Very similar.. So, I know the problems well. .

this is france and in that region there is a lot of humidity variation... there is make it look like and make it as it lasted so long.

@@jancloddlafront9185 And a little different perspective: Carl's great-great-greatgrandchildren might, MIGHT, have to think about replacing this door some day. Hope they are as skilled as Carl!

Wow, added this before I saw it was a router as well!

I read this twice to understand, thanks for the info. Also indirectly answered my question of glueing T&G.

I second Robert's comment. I've milled some reclaimed solid oak flooring for a small gate and needed to know these exact things before I proceeded. Thanks. :)

depends on the species of the wood... some are great vegetation killers.

@@jancloddlafront9185 It's oak - and it's in the title. The risk - if you are really wanting to find fault with the idea - is of nitrogen-robbing by the sawdust with its large surface area as it rots down. But even this will be a short-lived effect as with tiny particle size it will break down relatively quickly, and the following year all will be well again, especially for nitrogen-fixing legumes. I manage an allotments site and use much sawdust in this way & in composting. I think Phil's idea is a good one.

@@jancloddlafront9185 like "eucalyptus" for example.

@@falfield I used to work in a cabinet door shop that just pumped it into a huge pile out back, 3-4 ft tall. Mostly oak and birch sawdust. That was about 10 or so years ago, and it's mostly still there. The shop has been closed at least 8 yrs. I would have thought it would have long ago been rotted. Only the part that touches the dirt is rotted a little more at a time. It was curious to me, is the reason I checked every year or 2. It's been about 2 years now. Time for me to check it again.

@@teenapittman4241 There are 2 reasons why it hasn't rotted, one a possibility and the other a certainty. The possibility is dryness - sawdust piles can often shed water very readily and be quite dry under the surface. Dryness is the reason the wood in your house doesn't rot. The certainty is the absence of nitrogen. Composting (an accelerated breakdown by natural mechanisms of organic matter, about which there's well-worked out theory & lots published) requires a balance of carbon-rich (woody/stemmy) material and nitrogen-rich (green leafy/sappy) material, together with air and water. Too much N and a slimy mess results (think a bag of grass clippings) and too much C and you get a dry, non-decomposing pile (your sawdust). Putting the sawdust direct into the ground causes the C to draw the N it needs to rot from the soil (so leaving less for plants to use for growth - the 'robbing' remark above). Were your sawdust pile to be mixed with sufficient grass clippings (much more than you'd think needed) or with fresh manure, it would make marvellous compost. In our food caddy (for kitchen vegetable waste, coffee-grounds and tea-leaves) we put a fistful of sawdust at the base. It soaks up moisture from the rotting tomatoes and similar and prevents it from sticking to the base so making for easier emptying. And this balances out a day's veg waste (2 vegetarians - several litres) and leads to a lovely rich wormy compost after being transferred to our bin outside and mixed in with garden waste.

The original door was much simpler and didn't take hours and hours using modern electrical tools to assemble. It probably took half a day or less to build the original.

thank you mate¬!

Thanks so much for attending me.