Hi Charlie, your a pure delight! am sitting in my local Hospital having my chemo for eight hours and playing catch up on your channel, you just lift my spirits with your approach and so much light relief also with this surreal world which we find ourselves in! So glad you’re increased your output of videos, disasters & all, keep them coming Eddie🤓

One thing I love about your videos you show when things go awry and that I think helps all of us feel more able to tackle things without expecting perfect results the first time.

"I'm a lot more stupid than you originally thought", That gave me a laugh, Thanks 😀

I have to say, when that first decal was going on I was getting very nervous as I was waiting to start hearing a lot of bleeped out expletives, but your perseverance paid off. I have been successful in the past using only the cocktail stick with no chemicals to gently scratch away numbers. I’ve also had disasters, mainly having decals sink to the bottom of the water bowl, but even if these have torn I’ve managed to salvage them. What helps with this is Micro Sol as it will soften the edges where the tears have occurred, thereby reducing somewhat the obvious signs of the damage. Micro Sol is also invaluable when applying decals to uneven surfaces (such as when applying them over panel join and rivet detail). Good luck with any future renumbering projects you’ve got coming up.

Great great fun with this episode Charlie. Enjoyed it thoroughly.

Oh wow. That reminded me of when I was a kid attempting to put decals on a kit of a 'Sea King Helicopter'. Watching you there had my heart in my mouth. The thing I like most of all about your channel is that you're not afraid to show the 'disasters' as well as your 'achievements'. I so look forward to your videos, even more so now that we are all in 'Lock-down'. Brilliant show, Charlie. Keep Safe.

This should be of interest to me. I recently purchased a West Yorkshire flat front Bristol RE from a retailer. Tonight, Charlie, it's going to be R1368, RAX 13G in National Welsh livery. So hopefully the video will teach me how to change her. Several members of the bus modelling fraternity print their own decals. A bus modeller tells me that nail varnish remover will remove decals.

Excellent video again Charlie! What a steep learning curve, it's like weeks or months of experience compressed in a 45 min video. The locos look very nice after all the hassle. Thanks a lot!

Excellent. There is something quite satisfying in changing the numbers on your locomotive or cars. It kind of makes them special and uniquely yours. It’s also satisfying to sit here having lunch watching someone else do all the work before heading down to the basement to tackle my own challenges. Thank you, Joe

Much respect to you and your channel sir, I just found it and had a good chuckle at how you show the way things really go in creating a layout and not an edited perfect every time clip, All the best to you

About the only thing I remember from putting together my $1 airplane models in the 50's (yes, I still remember that far back) was that the way to see what's on the paper is to hold it - dry - over a bright light; Risky in the days of incandescent lamps, but easier with today's LED's. I'd mark he general edge with a pencil, and then drive on, sometimes successfully. I find so many of the YT railroaders tedious as they never seem to make mistakes, or learn anything i the process - guess they were born experienced. Thanks foe being a human being with a sense of humor and a realistic sense of values.

From what I have learned about IPA. It is way too aggressive on the paints to be considered for renumbering project like these. But T-Cut works best as it doesn't seem to be as aggressive on the paint and only focuses on the numbers. Great video there and I have just recently numbered a Class 60 in O gauge. Loved every minute of it.

Love the vids, Love the fact that you show when things don’t go to plan. Your response is more presentable than what my would have been. 😉. Thanks for the vids

Tipping a small amount of T Cut onto "document board" before use draws some of the solvent off, and makes it a little coarser, and hence a little quicker to use, something we discovered/were shown as recruits, in the days when we had lots of brasses to polish.. Small transfers, mix up your preferred solution, water + whatever, and create a drop (meniscus) in a saucer, or on a sheet of glass, and push the transfer complete with backing into the solution, check to see if transgfer isreleased from its carrier, if yes, soak up solution with blotting paper, (good luck finding it these days), pick up with tweezers place into position and slide off.

Hi Charlie, great video. I've finally started building my own layout. Baseboard complete, so onto track planning... Thanks for all the videos so far. They've helped me make a strong start. Looking forward to many more 🙂

Always love your videos Charlie. Had to admit I was sat on the edge of the sofa, toes curling shout "Nooooo! Don't do it!!!" at a number of points in this! Haha. Keep up the good work!

Thanks Charlie for yet another great video. I was saying to myself "get the tweezers, get the tweezers". I thought when the decal rolled up that was the end of that one but you recovered it, awesome.

Many thanks Charlie for another really entertaining post. I always look forward to your latest address to the nation! I've recently started modelling in O gauge and have found that using Dacalfix has the advantage causing the decal to follow the contours of the model. For example on wooden bodied wagons the decal follows the cracks between the planks which, especially when weathered, really adds to the realism of the model.

Thank you Charlie, you have made my day. Your videos are brilliant and love your style. I haven’t done any transfers for over 30 years, but am now tempted to give it a go. Strangely, I too have a couple of 50’s the same, all be it in Revised Large Logo. Thanks again and stage safe 👍

Omgosh, I was holding my breath almost the whole time, but it turned out ok! I must have missed it but I was wondering why you were changing the number anyway! You are a charm Charlie! I hate to say I love your mistakes or accidents but I love your light hearted response to them. Life is too short and messy to get upset, right? I love ALL your videos. Thanks for sharing them.

Thanks for your realism!

Excellent, informative and entertaining as usual Charlie! Well done and keep making the videos.

Hey Charlie! When working decals i found using some Microscale Micro-Set and Micro-Sol to work really well. I tend to dip the decal in water for a few seconds and then let it sit for 1 minute on a paper towel. After the time I use a paper towel to dab the decal dry, then with a paintbrush dipped in the Micro-Set solution I do a little wash over the decal. I try to get the decal to stick to the brush to transfer to the model. After I've transferred the decal, I apply more Micro-Set solution and adjust the decal to where I want. After I let the decal completely dry (1-2hrs) I apply the Micro-Sol solvent. I usually do 2 coats of Micro-Sol and let dry, then do a final coast of clear coat. This should hopefully make renumbering locomotives a bit easier in the future. Thanks for the videos! -Andy (Philadelphia, PA)

Hi Charlie I was holding my breath while you applied the D400 decal good recovery. I must say as well you have the cleanest loco wheels I have seen for a long time mate. Cheers Steve

What a brilliant recovery Charly. Well done. Some decals are a plastic and the underneath paint mostly acrylic. So, unless you know the base coat, ie acrylic, spirit, solvent based your a little bit stuffed. The T cut was a great choice. Unless your using solvent based coatings, then electrical insulation tape i used for less under leakage and sharper edge lines. Ive put new decals on but no longer swap new for old decals. Too much for me now. 😂 Love your videos. Very intuitive. Thank you.

Sorry about your woes Charlie, glad it did not get you down. What I've sometimes had success with is using some tweezers to scratch away at the lettering, then using T cut or very very very fine wet and dry (wet) to smooth out the surface, then after the transfers have dried, using aerosol Dullcote or more recently Tamiya Matt spray to blend them with the rest of the loco. Cheers!

Not a dull moment from you Charlie. A great and informative video. I will be undergoing renumbering and re-livery of some locomotives myself in the near future so I can always pick up the odd tip or technique. Hope your keeping well and all the best, Clint

😉 Thanks for convincing me not to ever try removing factory print-ons or adding decals. We need a better solution from the industry that works for people with ten thumbs - like me. And thanks also for continuing to upload!

Great video Charlie all this info is great to learn from I personally do not have a model railway as yet but have had friends that have I hope to have one one day and with this info it is so great and gives me confidence to start one

Speaking of practicing, my sister picked up a big box of old train stuff at a yard sale. Tyco, old Lifelike, the old toy stuff. Missing couplers and wheels, you know, junk. BUT I gave them to a young "engineer in training" to use them with the admonition to not try to repair and run them on his layout, that he would spend more doing that than just buying some good quality cars. I told him to use them to learn to decal, and learn to weather with these. When he really had them messed up, soak off the pain with what you Brits call "IPA" (Isopropyl Alcohol - 90%) and try again. I gave him KZfaq links to weathering, and suggested he use cheap craft acrylics. I told him to expect to mess up a lot before he started getting good at it, but isn't that true of nearly everything we do? Same with decals. Dullcoat... great stuff! If you do nothing else on a loco or car, putting a coat of Dullcoat to tone down the toylike shine is a good first step to weathering. It hides the edges of the decals, and is a good sealer over all after you weather. Be sure to mask off the windows.

Superb video Charlie, just what I wanted to see. I like you wish to go for mid 60's to early seventies era but up to now have found very few models in BR blue but with pre TOPS numbers. I now, can't wait to get my hands on some models & do some re numbering of my own thanks to your excellent findings. Thanks again, stay safe & keep up the great work!

Talk about nearly giving me a heart attack 😂😂😂 well done recovering the first decal 😂😂😂 was yelling at my screen tweezers Charlie . Kept me throughly entertained this morning, thank you so much I really look forward to seeing your videos keep up the great work mate and the entertainment 😂😂😂🍻🍻👍🏻

Well done Charlie another informative video, you never disappoint keep them coming please.

I've replaced decals but just blue transfers over the numbers with new white numbers on top. Job done!

For those more like myself there is a re numbering service at some model shops. Others I have seen simply scratch the decal off and use the tweezers to hold the decal in place (McKinley). The humbrol stuff comes highly recommended by all. there are also brass plate kits theyt may cover old numbers. Being brave with your models seems to be the challenge here.

Another great video Charlie. I have never cocked up with replacing decals, mainly because I have never attempted it. Kinda makes sense! 🤣🤣 Keep up the good work. Pete

Great video Charlie! I’ve yet to try this as I’ve been too apprehensive. Your video has really helped. Although I did think think that D400 was going to end up on the cab window! Really informative, thank you.

Hello Charlie,just a tip for you when drilling any multiple holes,,,,,keep trigger depressed all the time till compleate......keep up the good work and wait for your next vid...

When changing the identities of the buses [removing local authority crests and/or fleet names and the running numbers before applying new ones] bought for my model tramway, I used Meths and a duster. "Yule bee pleas two no" it's no better than the IPA. Yet another great video!

hi charlie, charlie here i just want to thank you for all your videos they are brilliant and me and my grandad find them perect as they are very informative and its made our lives so much easier. keep it up!

Super it’s what gets me through the week simply AWESOME as always Charles.

Hi Charlie. This morning I revisited this very useful video as I’ve bought a Hornby Sentinel which I want to relivery from Port of Bristol Authority to Dorman Long (Teesside Steelworks). Advice from the model shop is to use one or more coats of primer before a few top coats to hide the lettering. However, I’ll try your T-Cut method too. Now I’m no professional rivet counter as my layout mixes Western and North Eastern Regions over a lengthy unprototypical era. But as Chadwick is in theory more specific in location and time to 1973, I’m happy to see your three Class 50s (my favourite Diesel Electric locos), the first six of which I understand didn’t transfer to the Western until early 1974. Good for you!

Another enjoyable video Charlie. The amount of times I've chased a transfer round the body shell! Upside down, round and round, back to front! I was cracking up at that part! We've all done it 😆

Thanks Charlie, another great video, good end results too thanks, stay safe 👍

It's Friday - it's 12pm - it's Charlie bishop with another fantastic helpful video with more great advise ☺ thankyou Charlie

Absolutely smashing, as ever. This one was a bit more of a white knuckle ride but everyone got home safely. In just a little over 44 minutes you've explained what it's taken me years to learn, but trial and many errors. I have yet to renumber a Heljan model so there was a great lesson learned there for me. I invariably use T-cut and, as you explained, you get a glossy patch where you've removed the previous number. This glossy patch is perfect for applying new decals but can look a bit odd when you've finished the job. So, I mask off a big area around the old number so that only the number is visible. Very close to the numbers. That way, the only glossy bit will be covered by the new number and a small margin is not so visible. Also, the large area of masking is useful to protect any grilles or vent. If you get T-cut in the grilles, it's a pain in the bum to get out. I always use water to soak the decals and I apply Microsol to the body. I soak in water so that if I have any issues like D400 curling itself into a ball, I can float it in the water to flatten or flood water onto the body for the same reason. You can't always get a large area of backing paper to cut with the decal so they aren't always so easy to handle with tweezers. So, when the decals are ready for removal from the backing, I slide the whole thing out of the water (with the point of a scalpel) onto the rim of an old bowl. I then slide the decal off the backing and onto the flat blade of the scalpel, with a cocktail stick. I then lay the scalpel next to where the decal will be applied and slide the decal off, lengthways to avoid crumpling. Slide off with a cocktail stick. I think it's more likely to crumple if you slide it sideways. Once in the final position, or for final adjustment, I put a cotton but to the side of the decal to soak up most of the fluid (water and microsol). Final adjust, then dab dry with a cotton bud. I then apply a quick coat of Microsol and let it dry on its own. It works for me, most of the time. You did ask. Thanks again, Bob

Hi Charlie, I have never taken off decals that way I have always used a very fine sandpaper and the repaint it but this was very eye opening. And I love the way you talk through it all.

Hey Charlie, what I do when removing cab numbers is use Micro-sol. You brush it over the numbers and let it evaporate, you then could either use a pencil eraser and rub them off or burnish scotch tape to the numbers only and they come off with relative ease.

Love diesels. Started as a child and getting scared stiff with them roaring through stations. Love your tutorials.

Brilliant video Charlie. Hope you are keeping safe.

Charlie, to say I await every Friday with baited breath is an understatement! Pure joy, with a little bit of drama.... I might have screwed the ball of transfer up and wondered how I went wrong but your perseverance has provided me with the will to have a go.. on a more serious note, I’m thinking of starting a fund to send your Heljan model to TMC. Thanks for the video and stay safe.

I love your self deprecating charm Charlie . Makes these videos a bit different , but always informative . Great stuff. Looks like T Cut is the way to go . 1968 to 1974 a period that’s not very well represented , but it’s a period that in the beginning you can have black 5s , so the tail end of steam , blue and green locos and dmus , maroon and blue grey coaches . Great . Thanks for posting these videos particularly keeping us going during this period of lock down . By the way love HSTs too !

Love that class 33 iv got an original loco from the 80s in a box on the top of the bedroom cabinet! My dads set left when he passed never set it up in 15 years now! But that intercity was my own first my dad gave me I loved it and this brings bad good memories seeing it again!

Fantastic video Charlie! I was laughing so much as ive done the same as you! Good job you are not an N gauge modeller! 😅

That looked very hard and tedious Charlie , if I can avoid any of that I'll be chuffed . Well done

Hello Charles. Just a little suggestion on removing numbers. These can be removed by ultra fine abrasives, my preference was 2000 grit, you can go finer. I used a Velcro backed wet and dry, then made a small tool from plastic rod with a small flat pad of plastic card 4x4mm bonded at an angle. The pad had a small 4x4mm square of paint sprayers flatting block hook Velcro glued to it. What I had created was a miniature flatting block with an extension pole, and small squares of 2000 grit wet and dry. As the lettering on loco’s will be raised above the base colour, with a dab of water you can very lightly drag (don’t push) the wet and dry over the number using minimal pressure. What you’d be trying to achieve is microscopically riding on the surface of the numbers, as they will be a few microns above the level of the base paint. Because I made the monumental mistake of giving up the hobby a number of years ago, and I no longer have the tools, I’m unable to make a short video.

Hi Charlie. I use the tweezers to hold the decals in the fluid, then test with a craft knife or scalpel to see if they are moving on the backing paper. I then use the same to slide off the transfer rather than a brush. Most of the time I scrape of the old numbers with a craft knife. If you were going from old numbers to TOPS you do not need to remove them. As BR used to paint over them. Something I found handy when my out of date trainspotting book had a lot of the locos still with old numbers in. I just had to find the painted over number! But you can't paint over the TOPS numbers if you are going back to the old of course! I did have a coach mess up. I put the first class stripes and numbers on one side in the wrong places, so that on one side the first class seats were in the right place and the other side they were in the second class section! The two sides of the coach I was able to detach from the chassis, hence why I got it wrong! One of the decal makers will make a full set of transfers for the loco of your choice, including the shed codes for the era you want.

Good job, Charlie, I was rooting for you when you put on that first decal.😁

Well done I think that you have done a very fine job on not just your locos but your layout as well .I can draw some wonderful insperation from you

Its not as easy as it looks but I've achieved pretty good results in the past using a fibreglass pencil with no solution to remove the factory applied numbers. You still get a shiny patch but, as you said, that's easily covered with weathering. Keep them coming Charlie, I love the "just give it a go" attitude.

Great video as usual .You've just given me several reasons not to change decals .I have enough problems putting decals on WW2 model aircraft , they are a pain . Keep safe and look forward to another vid.

I’m so glad you’re well, Charlie. This will come in handy if I can’t find a named loco but know the class of it. Having said that, the fiddlyness of it will be a challenge to me. I gave up on making a pair of RCA cables yesterday for my CD player because when I tried to solder the wire to a tiny pin, my hands were shaking so bad I was moving more than a break-dancer lol.

Charlie, I can honestly say I've never messed up any loco re- numbering ever. Never had the bottle to even attempt it in the first place!! Well done, bit of perseverance and you got there! Take care now, Terry

I have to admit I never had the courage to renumber any of my locos. Maybe with this new layout I will give it a try. Thanks for the information Charlie. Great video.

"Why have I got three? Well, I'm a lot more stupid than you originally thought..."

Charlie what are you doing to me!! I found myself holding my breath when you were putting on the decals, the patient's you display is awesome, well done mate your much braver than me. Take care Eddy xx

Congratulations Charlie on a warts and all video. Transfers, I’ve had a few tantrums in the modelling room (kitchen) a 60 yrs old man throwing the Teddy out the Cot ain’t pretty. 😂🤣 Thanks for the effort Charlie particularly in these difficult times.

Hi Charlie, Another great video, watching you fight with the decals was entertaining (been their!). I have always used a curved scalpel blade to remove numbers from locomotives, I very gently scrape the number off with the blade angled to prevent cutting into the plastic. Even using this method I have gone through to the plastic, the "thickness" of the paint seems to vary depending on the manufactures methods. The decalfix certainly looked like it made much easier than water to apply the decals and the dullcote lacquer gives a good finish.

Well done Charlie alls well that ends well, I enjoy all aspects of your videos Rgds Mike

Hi Charlie removing decals is fairly straight forward but when something is painted on it’s very much harder Last summer I had to rename a Heisler logging locomotive.I ended up taping off the tender and priming and repainting it then adding my decals and with normal amounts of weathering you can’t tell.I look forward to your videos in these troubled times they allow us to forget briefly what is descending on us cheers from Canada

Charlie I hope you will forgive me, but I have to say I found this video somewhat amusing, I will however give you top marks for persistence. I don`t know if you have ever heard of the '3 foot rule', but it works like this. Put a loco on your layout stand back 3 feet and if there are any slight imperfections you can almost guarantee that they will be very difficult to notice, if at all, and when the loco is in motion you will definitely not see them. As you English love to say "crack on " and keep up the good work. In these trouble times those of us who have model railway layouts are certainly blessed as it prevents us from going stir crazy while we are 'self isolating' It is also the perfect venue for keeping in touch with fellow modelers Stay safe. Cheers Greg

Thanks Charlie, always entertaining!

Been putting this off for so many years, really should give it a go at some point. Glad to see the screw ups as well as the finished articles... 👍

Charlie you’re amazing I wouldn’t try that in a million years 😂😂😂😂❤️

Great video. I've ordered some t-cut and renumbering a class hornby class 87, because a few years back hornby produced King Arthur and then released their new class 87 as King Arthur as well. 🤔 It will be interesting because it is Intercity Swallow livery so the number has to be removed off a white background. Now that is a test for the t-cut not to produce any staining. I also have to remove nameplate as well. A tip for decals, I always drain the excess fluid off from a corner and then role my finger, with the paper, over the decal. Less chance of moving it for me.

Excellent. I have an old class 50, in large logo, which I will be renumbering 50039 IMPLACABLE, as this is my 50 of choice. I have numerous failures with decals, not just railways. I am of the firm belief, if you don't make errors, you never learn, and that is so very true. It's absolutely refreshing to know that everyone has disasters, rather than hide them, wear them as a badge, because you know not what to do next time.

Hi Charlie. Loved the video as I look sadly at over 800 N Gauge wagons ready for decals and weathering 😒But then I thought that about hand painting thousands of sleepers on my layout and once started the job was on its way. Strange thing is on week 3 of my lockdown I thought yay! 12 weeks of modelling....I will start soon when I've cleraed up everything in the house that needs doing 😊😊 Thanks for sharing....stay safe and keep well. Cheers, Bob

Looks as if you have lots of patience that I don't have. As always thanks for the hints....thanks for sharing....Jack 👍

Nail biting stuff at times charlie, when you put that IPA on I was optimistic, then when you rubbed with the cotton bud my heart sank. I think you did the job admirably, i've not yet plucked up the courage to try even a simple wagon decal, just first time nerves. Thanks for the video, stay safe charlie. All the best Alex.

Nice one Charlie. I have had a decal curl up on me before now and I found the best way to uncurl it was to put it straight back in the water. It uncurls itself. Good eh? Great video, well presented as always.

Charlie, I thought it was just me LOL. That's damn decals don't want to play fare do they LOL. Loving the work please keep them coming.

OMG Charlie, as an inveterate plastic modeller who’s just come to model railways I had my hands over my eyes as you stabbed at that decal in the dish with a modelling knife! Use a paintbrush to turn them. There’s 208 comments already so I haven’t read them all but I fully agree with Micro Sol comments, it’s great stuff, bin the Humbrol Decalfix. You were lucky the Fox decals are so robust, many others would have been like mangled seaweed or just broken to pieces. But you got there in the end so we’ll done you! You call it a disaster, I call it a brilliant antidote to Coronavirus blues, but then I’m just that kind of guy...keep up the great work. TonyS

Glad to see you doing well, Charlie.

Nice vid and great work on the renumbering project...

Splendid stuff. One thing I found with decals was that only blotting part of the decal stuck it down, but left enough fluid that could be worked back under to set it properly. Floating in setting (or softening) solution gives rather 6 degrees of potential movement, so, reducing those to, say, two seems to help. Foley (medical needle point) tweezers are worth what it takes to cadge or kumshaw as many pairs as you can.

Hi Charlie, great video, a refreshing change to see re numbering done in a 'live setting...I'm a modern image modeller and re number/weather locomotives on a regular basis. The best way to remove most TOPS numbers is indeed T cut, definitely mask around the number you wish to remove, you found the way to do it in the end...that is T cut the middle area then use a cocktail stick to remove the ends, its always the middle that disappears first, the new transfers need a gloss base to adhere too, any tampo printing needs to be removed slowly and no pressure or hard rubbing...regarding transfers, the best method is warm water with a drop of washing up liquid in a receptacle, decal fix is only a decal softening agent so I wouldn't use it on model locomotives, so the way to go is leave transfer in for 20 to 30 seconds..wet the area you want to put the transfer, place the transfer near where you want it to go and then slide into place using your trusty cocktail stick..then dab away access water with kitchen roll...unfortunately sometimes Fox transfers not only curl up as you found out, but can suffer with 'silvering' once applied, but weathering does cover this...for more easier transfers without the 'silvering' can I recommend Railtech transfers, they can supply a full set of loco TOPS numbers for as little 2.95 inc postage...keep up the great work, I was wincing watching you fight with that decal, but very impressed when you rescued it...regards, John

Hi Charlie, like it. Been down that road and often given up. Found that nail varnish removing pads are very effective. One has to be patient and stop as soon as result appears to be achieved. Neutralise surface ASAP. Pads are alcohol based and are to remove varnish, so slow and gentle. Works for me and usually leaves a clean finish. Would suggest trying on a redundant model to establish correct approach. If it shows a problem, stop and do not attempt using on a good loco. Really enjoy your videos. p.s. NO I don't wear nail varnish, but I know a lady who does.

I always use a shallow container for soaking decals...even a saucer will do the trick. I also use Micro Sol to remove and then Microsol again to soften the new decal. I have just recently painted and lined my DJH Britannia class using Fox transfers. The first time the decal seemed to fly off in seconds catching me by surprise. Release times can be very short!

Nice work on the loco mate and hope everyone the best with the corona situation.

Nice to see you haven't lost your touch, but I now need a lie down, the tension.

Hi Charlie , enjoyed the video, not sure I’ll ever need to re number a loco but it was fun watching you have a go at it ... thanks

Nightmare job! You are a better man than I Gunga Din. I would never attempt this, or I shouldn't have. I still have my Hornby Dublo Deltic which is living proof of the folly of letting a nine year old loose with a few pots of Humbrol! I do approve of number changing though. For sentimental reasons I had my green with wasp stripes class 08 renumbered to D4162. It was allocated to Exeter St Davids on 14th May 1962 and I was there on the day! Also my family bought me a Grange Class for my birthday last year and had it changed to 6847 Tidmarsh (my surname) Grange. I am waffling now so will stop. Keep up the good work!

I have not renumbered Heljan, but for renumbering genreally I use Brasso and stop rubbing in an area as soon as the numbers are off. The reason that the no. 7 on your class 33 was apparently more reluctant was because the way that you were rubbing was covering the middle of the number much more than the ends. For varnishing once you have finished, you need to spray the varnish (after masking everything that does not need to be varnished), either with an airbrush or (as I use, since I do not have an airbrush) an aerosol can. This will get a much more even finish of varnish that will not cause an area to look out of place compared to the surrounding. Also, I tend to prefer to use Railtec transfers where I can, as the backing film on these tends to be less visible than other transfers that I have tried.

Brake fluid also worth a try Great video Charlie, many thanks

Thanks Charlie, an interesting video. Like you I’ve not messed around with transfers since I was a teenager ! But looks like they’ve come along way over the years. Also like you though, my eyesight isn’t what it was 40 years ago either ! I’ve got a Adjustable 5 Lens LED Light Headband Magnifier Glasses on order to help. I’ll see how I get on wit it before I get brave enough to take T-Cut to any of my models ! Incidentally, the last time I used T-Cut was also about 40 years ago when I owned my first car, a 1973 Morris Marina 😀 Take care, looking forward to next week’s instalment !

I use a glass fibre pencil (£2.50 from eBay) to take off the numbers, so far no issues. Fox transfers can be tricky, especially on a fine font, as they have very little surround to support them (which looks better). On my WW1 renumbering the ROD letters were very thin. Just a matter of going carefully and accepting that there will be 'acceptable tactical losses' lol. Then I sprayed the whole loco with matt varnish (covered windows with tape) as that seals it and blends it all in so no joins or difference in finish. Cheers, Laurie

When applying decals, I use a paintbrush like you did, but I also have a pair of curved of forceps (tweezers) and also keep a dry brush available. I have both positive and negative sets of curved forceps. As far as cock-ups are concerned, although I have been number changing for a while, things can still go wrong. Such things as transfers curling over, half the number missing so you have to re-do the number, it coming off afterwards. Another one, touching it too soon and finding that it has attached to my finger. Steam front number plates can be very difficult because they are larger than the plate on which they sit. The other issue with steam, because the backing is white, not noticing that there is a power classification above the number and finding that there are now two power classifications on the side. I am about to try decal fix for the first time.

Interesting and good video. Thanks Charlie!

Hello Charlie, a very useful video. Thanks for posting. I've had a few disasters myself particularly with Heljan! The paint on my triple grey 58 came off so quickly I was through to the black base plastic in an instant with T Cut! 😠 I have found that all manufacturers' locos react differently and sometimes differently again within the same manufacturer. My Bachmann 101 DMU numbers came off with one scrape of the fingernail (wish they were all that easy!). My preferred method now is to masking tape closely all around the number then use a blunted cocktail stick dipped in a tiny drop of IPA. All the best, Vivian. PS great tip using those lockable tweezers - I've never seen those before. Will get some. Cheers.

My rule of thumb with T cut, is use plenty of it. The ‘drier’ it is, the more heat will build up, and ‘burn’ the plastic. I look at it as, the abrasive properties to remove the decal, and the liquid to lubricate. Other option is original Jif.