Exactly the same for me as well! New chain and the slippage was significant but thought it could be derailleur shift. New cassette is being installed today 👍

@@big_turk if the cog needs to changed, do I have to change the chain as well? What about the front gear rings? I am currently experiencing something that feels like a chain slip, I think it’s not skipping the cog. This happens when applying pressure on the pedals (such as when going uphill), I can feel the chain jerk , but I am pretty sure it’s not skipping

@@arbjful I actually replaced my chain and the rear cassette and that seemed to resolve my issue. I don't bother with the front chain rings and all is fine for me

i have better video, you can extend chain life for 6 times

Be careful replacing just the cogs - if the chain is worn it'll likely still skip if you replace just the cassette. If you google 'measure chain stretch' you'll find information you can use to determine if your chain is worn

I used a Yi 4k with a handlebar mount and a few straight joints / extension pieces. It was attached to the seat stay.

God kill me

I’m about done biking lol

I feel like I've had the exact experience you're describing on a different bike. The topic of flipping a chain inside out to increase its life sometimes comes up in forums. I've yet to see anything regarding this from an official source (Shimano for example) so I don't know if there is any truth to it but there are anecdotes. From what I understand, the idea is that the pins experience asymmetric wear and this contributes to chain elongation but when it is flipped inside out, the pins begin to wear on the previously unworn side. It might be worth trying to flip the chain inside out to see if it will work with the worn drivetrain again. If you do try this, please report back, I'm curious to hear if it works.

@Lucky 8888 *good for u man...i changed it and everything is working properly*

did the new cassete fix the issue?

Biking suckkkkkks, i remember bikes lasted forever, shows u the workmanship decline or corruption… cheaper parts = more $

I feel like the cassette should last a long time but there are a few factors at play here that could lead to its early demise. This is my commuter bike so: 1. I ride it in garbage conditions - salty roads, rain, snow, etc. 2. I use cheap components on it. 3. I don't maintain it very well so the dirt / sand / salt just stays on the chain until some of it is washed out by the next rain storm. 4. I don't replace my chain when I should, ie, when it has stretched by 0.5% or 0.75%. At this point I just ride it until it starts slipping and then I replace the whole drivetrain. The parts are cheap enough for an old 3x8 setup. This method certainly wouldn't make sense on a bike with nicer components. To answer your question about how long I had been riding on the chain - I don't know but I can tell you that the chain had been stretched well beyond the upper limit for a while.

The solution in my case was to replace the worn cassette. Best of luck with your bike 👍

It could be your crankset that is worn. Also double check to make sure it isn't auto-shifting and that the chain is compatible with the cassette, ie. 8-speed chain on 8-speed cassette.

If the entire drivetrain is new then it shouldn't slip. If this is a new bike then I would guess it's improperly aligned and autoshifting / catching the neighbor cog. Does this happen only under heavy load?

@@MarcAntaya yes it happens only when i am pedelling very hard. i dont have any problem while shifting gears only when i apply some load on a difficult terrain the chain slip like a gunshot

@@ankitpradhan8789 just to be clear, did you buy this bike brand new? Or was it used by someone else before you bought it?

@@MarcAntaya yes i bought it brand new .should i be worried because i dont want to replace any parts on my new bike. The specs on my bike are Shimano deore 10 speed derailleur 2 by crankset Hardtail bike

@@ankitpradhan8789 I would bring it back to the shop you bought it from, if they're reasonable they'll fix it for free. You shouldn't be experiencing issues like this on a brand new bike. Maybe it's a misaligned derailleur or bent derailleur hanger or something but I think you should go talk to the shop and see what they can do for you.

One of the takeaways from this experience was that a cassette doesn't need to be badly worn for the chain to skip on it. Does it skip in every gear? Is there a chance it could be auto-shifting? Is this the same chain that was on the cassette before you changed the chainring? How worn is the chain? If the chain has stretched, it could be slipping on the new chainring.

@@MarcAntaya I have the same problem. New chain, new cassette. Possible solution: I think you would want your rear derailleur to be angled so that the chain ends up hugging the cassette more, as it should. The chain should be forming that sharp S shape as it runs through the cassette gear and the RD gear.

Perhaps a stiff link. Can happen when putting back together.

God kill me

Yeah, good point, there is no audio of that. I don't know if I could describe it though... I guess it sounds like a poorly timed shift, like it shifts when under load and kind of snaps into place on a different gear. Except in this case the chain is snapping into place on the same gear but just one link ahead of where it was

@@MarcAntaya Nice description. I can hear it now.

If you have only replaced the cain but you are using the old/worn cassette and crankset and it is still slipping, it is likely that you need to replace one or both of those. A new chain won't fit well into the worn teeth of an old cassette or crankset. Before you go replacing more parts, ensure everything is adjusted correctly to rule out the possibility that it's simply auto-shifting.

@@MarcAntaya Thank you for the answer. Casette is new, but chain rings on crankset is worn. I am going to replace chain rings, hope that will help.

Exactly. I always turn out the tension screw (don't know the real name) all the way. Or take a link out of the chain, to put tension on the derailereur and pull the upper jockey wheel more to the front!

If the only thing you changed was the shifter cable, and before you changed the cable, everything worked fine, then I'd suspect it might need some adjustment

This is certainly good advice to avoid the problem in the first place

Depends the size of the cassette e.g. a 9 speed cassette won’t need replaced if there is only 0.75% wear opposed to an 11 speed which has maximum wear of 0.5% of chain wear before cassette needs changed

Haha, you got me! 😂🤦‍♂️

Same. Super annoying. When standing up pedaling hard. What was the fix?

@@LinderToobstop biking is the fix, f this

@@McRemmyBaby Forgot to share the fix. Took it into a shop, but, stretched out chain, and got a cog replaced ⚙️

If your new chain is slipping on old / worn drivetrain components then you probably have to replace one or more of those components. Double check first to make sure everything is adjusted correctly before buying new parts. If everything is adjusted correctly then take a look at the crankset and cassette. If one is clearly worn, maybe replace that first. The cassette is cheaper to replace and the smaller rings means it's probably more likely to be the culprit. You could also have a friend record some slowmo video of you reproducing the problem at low speed to see if you can identify where the problem is.

It could be slipping on the chainring, I'd check there next

@@MarcAntaya that i also changed. only thing i didnt change is the rear derailleur

Hmm, interesting, do you cut radially inward on the cog or are you removing the burr along the edge of the tooth? I like your inductive heater waxing approach, btw 👍

@@MarcAntaya thanks, when chain get worn/longer, it does not align on tooth from bottom, depends how much is longer it touch tooth from half of height to top and that part it eats and "deforms ", to reshape it you need small model grinder /sander, with cylindrical diamant bit, 3-6mm diametre , max rpm, Worn tooth looks like V, new looks like U, (gap between teeth)so you need to reshape only bottom part of tooth(from bottom to half of height of tooth), you do not touch upper part of tooth that chain deformed, do not make much press on grinder, slightly lick tooth from bottom to half of height and back, do not stay on one place or you can stay to get round shape of tooth .Amount of removed material is 0.1-0.5mm of thickness of single side of tooth for average worn tooth Again, grinding/sanding , is applied only on surface that chain makes press when pedaling(so on one tooth you reshape only half of it or just one side that is deformed, for cassete it is left surface , for ring front gear, it is right side, if cassete is one part, it is tricky, because smaller ring bothers to work on bigger ring, so you have to use ball grinding bit(3-5mm diametre). it would be easier to record video, but i am too lazy , it takes too much time for me yes you can remove metal burr/residue on tooth that is made by plastic deformation of metal, particularly on front al gear ring , it grabs chain and keeps it on ring( chain starts to wind on ring)

@@makantahi3731 Ah, I see, so does that mean you're adjusting the spacing so that it meshes better with the old / stretched chain? I imagine this wouldn't help it mesh with a new chain, right?

@@MarcAntaya old chain throw in garbage, good chain should be in between this specs(119.65-120.00mm- take hand caliper and use jaw for hole measuring, extend it to 120mm and put it into chain and adjust caliper to be max extended in chain and then read numbers, if is over 120 , throw that chain in garbage, because it makes damage on whole transmission. reshape makes gears to look and behave as new, do you mean to install old chain on new gears?, do not do that, as i use wax, chain life is extended from 1000km to 6000km, and on some 3000km when chain was 119.75, on one cassete gear it started to skip/slide, i just reshaped that gear and everything became normal if you do not have caliper , you can set old and new chain side by side, let both hang on 3mm nail and you can see how old chain starts to be longer in compare to new one, you should compare lenght on same number of chain links(108 is average number for most of bikes) and if old chain is longer than 3mm on 108 links, it is for garbage, good chain is between 0-2mm , after 2mm it starts to eat teeth, over 3mm it destroys teeth, reshape works for new chain

@@makantahi3731 I agree, once the chain is stretched it needs to go in the garbage to keep it from damaging more of the drivetrain. My thinking with grinding radially inward would be that it would decrease the distance between teeth but this isn't the problem and this wouldn't help, the teeth are still spaced at the correct distance, they are just thinner and misshapen. Your goal is to improve the shape of the tooth so it is less likely for the new chain to ride up on the tooth, is that correct? To make the tooth less like a ramp? If you ever get around to making a video about grinding your cassette, I'd be very interested in seeing it!

It had certainly been ridden on with a worn chain but the chain used in the video is brand new :)