Thank you! God bless.

Sorry but in today's world you would starve trying to make a living. Besides no one wants to pay for craftsmanship or experience anymore...

Thanks for sharing. I'll touch on this in a future video. We truly appreciate your following. Take care. God bless!

I appreciate that!

Thank you! I'll be glad to help when you are ready.

Simply a light cutting oil. I get what I use at Ace Hardware. Thanks for watching.

It is a very good cartridge. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

It is an Enco Turn Pro, and they come in various sizes, to fit most needs. Thanks for watching.

Since you are working between the 3 jaw chuck and steady rest, can you show from the very begining, how you machine the journal for the steady rest and if you also machine a journal for the 3 jaw chuck? Many thanks for you patience, you have my big respect sir!

First questions, yes. Second question, you are vague to what you are referring to. Reply here, with a question, so I'll be sure to see it. Thanks for watching.

Not necessarily. Thanks for watching.

In a hunting rifle I look for 1/2" or better. Bench rest or target rifle, better, 1/4", preferably, one tenth of an inch. Thanks for watching.

There are .001 graduations on the tail stock dial. Thanks for watching.

I don't make barrels, though I have the ability, not the time or interest. I buy barrel blanks, rifled to caliber and twist needed, I do all of the work from there. Hart barrels are my top choice. I don't keep barrels on hand, as I don't want to tie up funds in product that may sit around until we have a call for it. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmithThank you, for taking the time to answer. I've been obsessed with firearms since I got my first rifle (pre 64' 25-35 win).. I enjoy the self defense rifles but nothing intrigues me like hunting rifles, and im putting some serious thought into going to a gunsmith school.

I've been using Ace Thread Cutting Oil for a # of years and find it works very well, and the price is great. Thanks for watching.

That’s the flaw in this I don’t use an indicator system you can’t make a 3 jaw make a bore run trie without a backing plate so there for the journal he cut isn’t concentric to the bore then he uses it to run off of.

The chuck reams true. No adjustment, centers automatically in the bore. Both diameter ends are turned true to the bore. Unfortunately, it seems you, and @ronsanchez2842 don't have the schooling that has taught you to do this. I appreciate you, @rbfreund, inquiring. But for Ron Sanchez to say there is a flaw in this method is a clear indication that the schooling in this method of machine work is very lacking. IT WORKS and has for years. Master Machinists [at least those of us that are more mature] and those, like the late Les Bowman, my great mentor, a trained mechanical engineer, use[d] this and it is very, very accurate or I would NOT be doing this. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmith Oh then you should have mentioned that you trued the muzzle OD also. You took the barrel off the shelf and said you stick it in the chuck a couple of inches...no mention of truing that end.

Thank you!

No, I use true 3 jaw chuck and stead rest, which aligns the barrel perfectly true for a perfect chamber job. Lost count of the many, many I've done this way in over 50 years. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmith Do you use a dial test indicator to align the bore/barrel or do you have good luck just using the steady rest and tailstock center? thanks.

You'll have to go to our website, always listed at the end of each video. At the bottom of each page is an "Email", or go to the contact page and email us from there. I'll be glad to help. Thanks for watching.

From the Real Gunsmith's Wife: He's been doing this for 50 years and no issues because he is diligent and pays attention. When the shop is his preferred temp of mid 50's, he's not going to be in short or sleeveless tops. He learned from the best and they wore long sleeves, too, as they, too, were diligent and careful.

@@TheRealGunsmith I'm not judging, to each their own, it's just not for me

Clambering the way Randy does it minimizes almost any chance of getting snagged. For others clambering close to the spinning chuck with the barrel buried deep into the chuck it's very dangerous.

@@14goldmedals perhaps, but I'm gonna wager it's not just chambering he does in long sleeves.

@@14goldmedals Correct! And after 50+ years of doing this way, mostly with long sleeves, not eve any close calls.

Correct. Thanks for watching.

You can indicate it off both ends

Yes, of course I thread the barrel. I have a video on that and it is touched on in this or Part 2. I don't drill the barrel, but I ream it. Thanks for watching.

Yes, there is. And that is my purpose. In union with Hart Match barrels, the tops in accuracy. Thanks for watching.

Because it runs true. Look up "true chuck for lathes". ABM tools has a very clear explanation as do others. This is nothing new. Easy and quick to set up and as the name describes, true. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmith I looked up your abm true chuck, its a normal scroll chuck

He doesn't

Without indicating the barrel in on the bore, then cutting a fresh 60° center before putting it between centers, or using a live center to turn the shank(which is then run in the steady rest), you cannot know it is running true. The centers from the barrel makers are only for profiling the barrels, and can be grossly off center. I did one last week that the OD was .007"+ off center, so it out about .015" bore to shank. It was painful to watch this video.

Lifetime Toolmaker and competitive marksman. I agree with Chad.

@WES, @Mr. Quindazzi, @Chad Bakkene, @P Latzgo: None of you have a clue. You’ve not been properly schooled. A center is put in the bore on each end. This automatically centers on the barrel. The OD is turned to true the shank. The barrel is turned around the same done to the muzzle. Now you have a journal to chuck and a journal to running in the steady rest, adjusted properly. The chamber is cut absolutely true with correct fitting pilot. I’ve done tens of thousands of chambers, the most precision way there is. Dead true, each time, no run out. It is apparent that those making comments that this is not the way to do this, are not familiar with how to use a lathe. My chambers are perfect and the rifles they go on are proven by my clients and I for top accuracy. I am a master of chambering and handloading, a top combination. Targets prove this. Stay tuned for a video on this, since the naysayers say it can’t be true. Which is BS. Get on with LEARNING. But with the comments posted, perhaps it is beyond your skill to grasp this? Frankly, you have been taught incorrectly. Take a look at your chamber reamer. It has a center at each end. It’s ground on centers. BTW, have any of you TRIED this? Obviously not.

Having worked at a level of toolmaking most people never see I will assure you that nothing is “Perfect “ your process only may fall within “Acceptable level of deviation “ But as a matter of discussion, If a better process presented itself, would you consider the change ? I bet I know the answer to this.

Ollie Tabooger

​@@g-mc4507har har

I only build rifles on custom orders, but thanks for the great compliment.

@@TheRealGunsmith fair enough sir, I’ll call you after Easter weekend

You are dead wrong. I've built many rifles for competitions and they are winners. I have many, many repeat customers. The rifles are VERY accurate and will stand up against anyone's chambering methods with flying colors and beyond. This method far surpasses factory chambers.

@@TheRealGunsmith If you are comparing your results to factory.......that is your first mistake. I encourage you to take a look (or measurement) at the freebore diameter for inconsistency (off center) and take a look at a fired case at the .200 line......I bet you are getting excessive growth upon firing do to an oversized chamber. I have used your method and have seen others use it as well with similar problems. There are gunsmiths and then there are rifle builders.

SMH! You are ignorant of what I do, despite watching [or not] my video. Please watch part 2, also. I true the OD to the ID and my jobs are 100% true. Proof is in the thousands and thousands of barrels done this way for myself, family, friends and thousands of clients over decades. I am expert at chambering this way. Accuracy is the proof, time and time and time again. For decades, many decades. A customer of 40 years, just shot a 1.500 group at 540 yards with a .270 Wby. I built for him.

@@TheRealGunsmith so you cut an od at the muzzle and breech end which you did not show, is this correct?

​@tomgiorgini9154 Basically he takes the barrel and puts it between centers. Then he cuts the OD of the barrel concentric to the ID and he cuts 2 spots on the OD of the barrel. One spot that he uses for the steadyrest and the other spot at the muzzle of the barrel that gets chucked in the lathe. Then he puts the reamer on the tailstock center and cuts the chamber. This is how barrels were chambered back in the day and many old timers still use this method. However there are almost no professional competition shooters who chamber barrels this way anymore. And almost no competition shooters who shoot barrels chambered like thus. Barrels now that are used by the top competition shooters in the world are all chambered through the headstock and indicated off the ID of the barrel using the lands.... This guy learned this way and he's comfortable with it and he has repeatable success with it! So you can't argue with that really...

I learn EVERY day, so should everyone.

You must be talking about your self 🤔😳😂

@@edwardabrams4972 nope

Factory made dies. I've made my own, but it is time consuming. And with rare exceptions, which were taken care of, I've never had an issue. Thanks for watching.