Thanks Thomas, glad you enjoyed the vid. :)

You're welcome mate, glad to hear your boat is running well and you are enjoying your time on the water. :)

I was really please to have them interested in sponsoring the channel because they are a great company. It's not hard to support someone doing something so relevant so well. I'm going to do a vid soon on those parts diagrams as even if you don't need to buy something they are a great source of information.

Hey Jack, yeah, it goes pretty smoothly with a decent puller and a bit of heat. It's also pretty simple going back together which is always nice. I had to pull a tiller steer throttle / gear selector off a little outboard yesterday and I've never seen so many linkages and springs! :O

Nice one, I do like those complete kits when it comes to doing a job like this, in hindsight I really should have looked for something like that. I was certainly pleased with the delivery of the parts I did order though.

I ordered parts from Florida and Taren Point on the same day - same session on the computer even. The Taren point place (NSW) even listed the parts as 'in stock'. The parts from Florida arrived 2 days earlier than the Taren Point parts - so I wonder if 'in stock' means some one , some where, has them in stock and will order them for you, add a mark up and make you wait a few more days for them? The parts from Florida took 5 days to get to me. The local dealers just have to wake up that the only benefit they can offer is same day or walk in sales delivery - they can almost never beat on line for price - and that is from shop front places as well. The Australian retail dealers really need to lift their game - delivery time is their only competitive edge now days. And Amazon is nearly here which will only make things tighter- even though they only stock a small percentage of what they list as available.

Glad the vids have helped. It certainly is a problem when those seals go!

Glad to help!

Instablaster

Hey Louis, yes, those threaded carrier are really hard to get undone, and that is even with the specialist tool that most of us don't have. Will do a video on them one day.

Yes, I think removing bearing carriers is one of the most fraught jobs you can do on outboards for sure.

Yeah, somebody else mentioned that I still don't have any memory of doing it, but it certainly sounds like something I would have done. Oh well, time to do it properly! :)

You're welcome Michael, glad to hear the videos have been helping you save some money. I have noticed that MarineEngine.com also have a great amount of information as well as products which can sometimes be just as valuable. Looking forward to putting your picture up on the board!

Thanks Tim, enjoy your vacation!

Yeah, someone else mentioned that too. My memory is terrible! :O

Ah, it is a small world after all. :)

That shift shaft video should be in a couple of weeks, stay tuned. I know what you mean about needing to work on your own motors once they get a bit old, it can get really expensive fast otherwise.

That Pajero is straight ULP fortunately. Good luck with your gearbox. Cream coloured is much better than pure water pouring out. Seen that many times!

Thanks mate. Good luck!

Ha! Love what you've done there. ;)

Yes, it's always nice to get future use out of tools you make up. I might not use it again for a while so I should probably label it so I don't forget what it is for! Sounds like Mitsubishi did a better job on picking a name for the rest of the world!

Great tip!

its winter we need something stronger to warm us up :-)

How else can a mechanic not get frustrated with all the bleed knuckles you get every day! ;)

Haha yep like the good old days pour some on the wound and drink the rest

Dangar Marine

and the clock.... no toc.

It looks like it is a done deal now so looking forward to working with them on the channel. And the tequila. ;)

Yep, that can be a good way to go. We have a freezer pull of leaf spring bushing at the moment because they are really hard to get in other wise. There is no doubt it can also be a bit safer as you need to be really careful with a punch not to damage the seal on the way in.

Sounds like a good thing to start collecting.

Thanks Robert.

I have the same question

Thanks Carlos. :)

Thanks mate, it will be interesting to see how things go in the future. Next month the sponsorship with MarineEngine.com begins but we had a great chat before agreeing to work together about how channels can really go downhill once they turn into a series of infomercials so there won't be any reviews of products or anything like that. The great thing is that they are such a natural fit for what this channel is about that I'm expecting it to add a lot rather than taking away.

Let's hope so.I watch/use to watch plenty of channels and they eventually all divert away from the channels original roots chasing the mighty dollar which really spoils it for me.I know that there can be some serious money made if you have a good channel,but all the bullsuit reviews that they suck people in with along with the host getting to big for their boots really puts me off. Anyway ,I just find you so easy to watch and down to earth with some good videos to help others out that I hope it continues into the future. Cheers.

You need to remove the drive shaft before you can remove the propshaft on that outboard I think.

A very effective lubricant indeed. :)

I was thinking the same thing lol

Thanks Kyle!

You can't beat Wikipedia for getting to the heart of the matter! :)

Thanks mate. You would need a lot of pressure to help a bearing carrier come out and the oil seals would blow first unfortunately.

LOL, who wouldn't buy a car called the "No go"! ;)

Thought it meant pussy.. or penis one the two.. pendejo is bitch..

Hi mate. I didn't pressure test the gearbox mainly because I knew the prop seal wasn't great, I wanted to do the gear selector o-rings to make selection a little smoother and since I was going to be doing the water pump it isn't such a big deal to do the final seal while I am there. I know what you mean about punches being a bit risky, but I find that if I pick one from the set that is the entire width of the flat part it doesn't distort it like it might if it was a finer point punch. One day I should look around and see if I can find a full set of different sized seal installers. Yes, a new anode would be nice but I'm not sure where the parts would stop, not to mention the delay in ordering them. I'd never get a video finished! ;)

I hear ya for sure...I know you were careful with the punch, just mentioned it because I want to caution the viewers to be aware of the pitfalls of using a punch and encourage the use of the correct installer tools...That shift rod bushing/oring seal is a strange design, and does tend to bind the shift rod when corrosion builds up in that cavity, so you are wise in cleaning up that part and replacing the orings.Please be sure to pressure and vacuum test carefully once you are done, and coat the driveshaft splines with the OMC moly lube to minimize rust/corrosion that tends to rust/seize/damage these splines....

Ah yes, we've had a couple of boats that have a plywood deck inside an aluminium boat so you have a flat surface to walk on. I've replaced a couple of those but never the deck in a fibreglass boat.

Did you video that procedure?. If not no Biggie. I think I know some of what needs to be done, and I will learn through my mistakes.

Unfortunately not. Because I was replacing an existing floor I just used the old one as a template to trace the pattern onto some new ply.

No prob, maybe I'll make forms and fill them with fiber glass. Thank u fer the response and keep doin videos.

You're welcome. :)

I think we should just donate it to the Maritime Museum. ;)

Same question

Thanks mate. A soft floor?

I hope so given I live in Australia! I'm not sure which one it would take. I normally just order the starter specified for the model of outboard. I would recommend jump onto MarineEngine.com here and finding your model to see what they specify www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=25

Thanks mate. :)

Hi Jim, glad your restoration is progressing well. Replacing the gearbox seals will solve your water intrusion problem for sure, it is rarely the washers on the drain and fill plugs. I have heard a gearbox make a noise like you mentioned just from the propeller not being on properly. Is there any play in the propshaft when you have the propeller off? The odd shudder just above idling speed could be a bit of a carburettor blockage. Were they cleaned out as a part of restoration?

Thanks for the reply Stu......I put the prop on myself and was pretty sure I put it on correctly :) ....I will remove prop and check for play. I am about to watch your video again as I have been studying my OEM shop manual and it is far more confusing then your vid was. They talk about removing gears and such.....Im not doing that but I do think i can follow your vid and change all the seals. I only ran the boat for about 30 min with new OEM lower unit oil in it and the water was already in the oil....and of course it had that burnt smell to it. I did not clean the carbs during resto....the resto was mainly the boat...i bought the engine used....but it was running like a champ when i bought it. I learned a valuable lesson though. Never buy an engine without seeing it under load on a sea trial. Always check the lower unit oil. I did do a compression check but did not do the other things. I will order the water pump kit from your sponsor tonight.

It's probably not really going to hurt, but they should seal well with only grease. The hardest part is getting the bearing carrier out again down the track so I wouldn't be a fan of putting anything in there that would make removal more difficult in a few years time.

For sure, I've been meaning to do that one for a while.

Hmmm, that's a good question. There is a fair bit of weight in a 50HP so I'd be careful. I'd be more inclined to hang it from it's lifting eye on the top of the motor then put the lower unit in your stand to hold it still.

Mr Cuervo helps as much as he hinders!

Usually put a wipe of grease on, yes.

ok, here's a good-un that I was told to try out if your outboard engine is not pumping water very well!,, it could be that the pump impeller is worn out, but it could also be just salt crystals that have built up inside your engine's water ways, thereby blocking them up some what slowing the flow of water through the engine!,, so here's the trick,, you get a big tub that your engine will fit into so you can run it up inside the tub if it were to be filled with water, but instead of water you fill the tub with ""vinegar!"" and run the engine for a few hours in that vinegar, and that should dissolve all the salt crystals from deep inside the engine and the engine's water pump will flush them out, however after running the engine in vinegar you will need to flush the engine out with clean water, I have never tried this trick out as yet, but the guy that told me this trick,,, did eat lots of pickled unions!,, he also never told me if you had to use white vinegar or brown vinegar,, and with or without unions in it!,, but I would say that after use,, you don't put it on your chip's!,, what is your thinking about this as vinegar dose remove salt "gunk" of lots of thing's,, great video's keep them coming! from a ""free Britain now out of the dominating EU!"

Ah, that's 20, now I can do it! ;)

It's always a rough day after you start drinking tequilla. Did I mention Tequila Mockingbird is my favourite book?

A good question, but unfortunately I don't know the real answer either. By guesses are that it either reduces salt water spraying up towards the head of the outboard, provides some form of dimensional strength to the leg or just looks cool. Which I could tell you for sure!

Dangar Marine I find it does just the opposite...lol Seems like the water comes up and hits it and drives it towards the transom...then up in the air. Bugs the crap out of me...thanks for the reply.

Yes, a few people have mentioned that. My memory is terrible!

It's only something to worry about if water is getting into your gearbox oil. If that isn't happening then your seals are fine.

It could either be leaking gearbox seals or unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pp-qgJeS08m4h5s.html

Did I? I don't remember that at all! :)

Hey Jim, from memory it was the one where I measure the shift shaft length.

Thanks Stu.......Now I am really confused. I watched another persons video.....he was working on an older Evinrude but the prop shaft seal was 2 pieces...an inner and an outer and so were the drive shaft seals. And now that I have seen that...studying my shop manual it shows 2 opposing seals one facing in and one facing out....before I didnt know what that diagram was trying to say but now I understand. I will have to watch your vid again but I think your prop shaft seal and drive shaft seal were just one piece. Could this be the modern updated version of the seal??????

To be honest, this Evinrude is the first outboard I've seen that only has a single seal. Having said that, it is a double seal, but it really does vary from outboard to outboard.

Im putting in the hours studying these damn parts lists right now...the seal you used was 341281...the seals my part list says to use for my 99 PX model is 334950 two needed for assembly facing back to back. They have metal outer edges and call for gasket sealant on them. Yours is a 97...mine is a 99.....and I have a 98 parts motor that tonight using your instructions I dropped the lower unit. Pretty easy to do...but removing the carb seems like a bad design...but sure enough it gave me the room I needed. I am going to pressure test my parts motor lower unit before i attempt to remove the bearing carrier. I made a lower unit stand tonight and it is ready to go. Sure wish I could post pics here to show off my stand. Your videos are a huge help....and save me a lot of money.......so a BIG THANK YOU to you sir!!!!

Hey Jim, would love to see your stand. If you upload the pics to a picture sharing sight (Google, Imgur etc) you can post the link on KZfaq.