It took me three feet of pole to get the housing off on my Camry when I just did my first oil change (Toyotacare expired). Now when I just got home from work, I noticed I left a trail of oil behind me the entire way. Thankfully the dipstick was still above the minimum mark, but barely.

Thank you! I thought I was the only one having that bad experience. Did my first oil change two days ago and was impressed at how much I had to work at removing the oil filter housing - it was incredibly tight. To my surprise, the "o" ring was broken (torn) in place when I finally was able to remove the plastic housing. I thought it was my fault until I noticed the amount of dirt that had collected around the area where the "o" ring had split. All previous work had been done at...any guesses?...the Toyota dealership. Sheesh...can't trust anybody these days. I replaced the "o" rings and filter housing using the manufacture's recommended torque settings. No leaks so far. But I can't help having the "look over my shoulder" feeling about any "micro cracks" that Charlie's Foreign Car Service video mentioned. Will keep any eye open. In any case, thanks again for sharing your experience.

Funny, watched another video where the guy didn't use a torque wrench to install the housing and was showing how to hammer the removal tool while applying force. A "Toyota mechanic" chimed in and said he's never used a torque wrench on an oil housing and has never had any recall leaks. Why would a "professional" admit to not using a torque wrench?

@@waynebinkybecause they don't want to waste anytime to get to the next job. It's about $$$. They are paid by jobs not by hours. They could care less. Unfortunately thats all dealerships. A lot of independent shops are the same way. Quality of work is not priority.

@@njackson18 Are the dealership mechanics paid not by the hour? I can see the independent shops cutting corners to save time and make more money.

Always

True

Yes after 2 oil changes on my tundra, that was enough for me. so much more convenient and better oil used when i do it myself. the little drain they stuck in there i just left in to be honest, i just drop the whole thing and still don't make a mess, but there was no need for it to be overtightened like that. I thought the cartridge was going to be a mess, but i've come to like them more. I think the filters should be cheaper than cannister filters, but they're often the same or more... strange to me .

Made that mistake, when they did a recall on my Sienna they offered to change the oil also, welp now I can't take the filter housing off. And of course I am going back to them to have them take the filter housing off.

The faster the tech can get one car done and get onto the next one, the more money he makes. The more stuff he finds wrong or questionable, means a hopeful upsell to the customer from the service adviser! In many way the system is basically designed to screw as much money out of a customer as possible!

I do the same with my F150, just take one or both hands and twist that sucker as hard as you can. Never had issues taking them off or loosening.

@WhiteBlurr ST Yes. I always hand tighten oil filters and I've never had an issue.

You are 100% right. Only when I hand tightened it I didn't get anymore oil leaks from the alum oil filter housing. Did my first oil change on my wife's 2009 Rav4 last week.

@@rogerbec5766 Be sure to completely lube the o rings with clean oil , I used a spray lube . As someone had said the inside / outside of the o ring wasn't lubed . And when filter was tightened , the o ring got pinched and caused a leak .

Thanks!

Trust the Torque Specs. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks!

I do oil changes for a living. Its the metal ones that always get stuck

@@LibertyGunsBeerTrump - mine never gets stuck because no one’s ever touched it but myself 😀

Thanks 👍

same thing happened to my 2020 tacoma....

Awesome! Thank you! I will keep making them for you!

I find filters seem to come off easier on any car with engine warm

We can't get ours off 😔

That's what I do. No leak and it does not loosen by itself, and that is all due to the way the O-ring seals and holds the filter tight as well. That extra little turn, the torque wrench, and the metal housings are not needed.

Glad it helped!

This is the sweetest reply I've ever received. I'll keep going on videos. Thank you! Cheer's, virtually!

Do you have a link for the Highlander oil change video, I can’t seem to find it

Do you have a link for the Highlander oil change video, can’t seem to find it

It's a bummer when they don't fess up to it. They should have. It's a very easy thing to overtighten if your not careful.

A lot of dealerships just over tighten oil filter housing purposely.

What did you do once the housing was broken?

Having the same problem with our recently purchased 2017 Camry from the dealer. They literally said tough luck to the fact that one of their "techs" tightened the filter so tight that its bending my equipment trying to get it off. Had this problem with my last dealer oil change on my Avalon. I think some of the "techs" think if we can't get them off we'll have to use the Dealership for our work. Just one more incident as to why I won't have a dealership do my work.

Same here I used a breaker bar and broke the filter housing and when I added the oil and turn my car on oil spilled out everywhere.

@@siker3231I just bought a new plastic canister for my ‘15 Venza. I just bought it back in Feb ‘23, and when I did my first oil change on it in March, I noticed that there were slow drips coming from the plastic canister, leading me to believe that there are micro-cracks in the plastic. When I do my next oil change at 5K miles (Sept/Oct ‘23). I will replace it with the new plastic canister. As I will be doing the oil changes on this Venza, I will also torque it to “factory spec”, not the impact method. The Car Care Nut (Toyota/Lexus KZfaq channel) says the plastic is high quality and durable, as long as it’s not over-torqued.

Prolly just being an ass on purpose

Must be a jiffy lube tech

The oil filter housing is impossible to overtighten. OEM filter/oring well wetted with fresh oil turned in on cold engine goes smoothly until it bottoms out.

@@anurakboribun2560 When the a$$holes use an impact to tighten the canister... it will be tight as hell or they will crack the housing. The service techs cracked the housing on my brother's 2015 4-Runner. The housing is stamped with tighten to 18 ft/lbs. I always use a torque wrench.

@@stephenmaurer7008 I know it is stamped. You are right about $$holes because whoever approaches the filter with impact either to remove or install deserves to be called butcher not mechanic. They do not think. Old CANister filter had small thread screw and then landed on gasket. This thing has large thread going over huge oring gasket as it goes in. It gives different feel of resistance. It should be tightened with steady gentle force not jerking or whacking because that is the easiest way to cross thread especially the plastic version. I assure you turned slowly this thing will go evenly until it reaches the end. Sad that mechanics do not have enough imagination to notice that. One complicating factor, non Toyota filter may have orings made out of some crap that does not respond well to removing. When I put it in gently I know for sure threads are not crossed, I always remove it easily too. Again no jerking with the stupid impact, slow steady pull does it until about half way then the rest by bare hand. Once again: to install - original gasket, lubricate it well with fresh oil, approach installation when engine is fairly cold because it expands noticeably when hot. Forget the torque wrench because it could be tricky and fooled many, gentle steady even pulls until you feel resistance of the end of possibility. You may get surprised how simple it is. Next time of removal you will remember that it was easy on so you will have your confidence that it must be removable. Stay away from "mechanics" utilizing impact wrenches. Just replaced three wheel studs, somebody overkilled them ☺

The dealer here wants $263 cnd for a new housing.

You can feel the click in the wrench.

@@donwhitee3955 bought and aluminum one at O'reiley for $29

You can break it apart inside the housing, I blocked off the Oil galley to engine area with Blue Shop Towels, then preceded to tear into housing, ( I already had new one ready.) if had to take Dremel to part that was inside threads, just cutting a nice groove into inside plastic housing, once groove cut established, pried it little and it boke on Groove line, allowing me to pull it all out, Cleaned housing and replaced. Left Sharpie note on oil pan, No Torque wrench !

At this point in the video, He explains how you know when you bottom out. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJN4ktWEnNPVZZc.html If you don't oil the O-ring, it can make a clicking sound.

I would do it soon. Is the oil light on while you drive or idle? If it is, I would do it immediately.

Same thing! Just tried to do the 4th oil change this morning and it was so tight it broke.

Glad it helped! If you have any videos that you would like to see us cover please leave a comment.

Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video.

You shouldn't see any o-ring after it's been properly torqued. Purchase a torque wrench. They're not too much money and are needed often if performing your own work.

Thank you!

Thanks!