Jack Good is right about ventilating that box. With out getting some outside air in, it's just moving its own heated air around. It will never get any cooler.

Thanks

Still going ?

Ruben Salazar how many watts do you actually get I have 3 325w and only get 750w out of them I have. Gotten 980w before on output I connected an extra 325 and now I get he 1000w I have like 20 325w solar panels I dont use

Ruben Salazar also have you found any interference mines causes a lot when sound stereo is plugged in

@@nightmareinaction629 I have not noticed any interference in stereo, tv s or computers. I also run a 600w inverter at night with batteries and its own solar panels and charger. No interference or static .

@@nightmareinaction629 I do not know how many watts I get out of my 10 100w panels. I,m sure it is not 1000w. That would be perfect conditions. And they are not name brand panels to begin with. I will have to measure on a sunny day and see.

The video is 4k. 360p means you are watching the video just after it was uploaded and the video hasn't been fully processed by youtube.

@@jlongjr27 oh ok sorry for the misguiding coment then. And thx for info.

Cant wait for the video.

yeh i watched a guy on youtube swap out the mosfets using a USA brand i think by memory the name was texas instruments or similar sounding name ,the temp was cooler and efficiency significantly increased, you get what you pay for

@@closertothetruth9209 can you find that video ? I would like to watch it

Yeah man otherwise they not running on the bearing properly

Correct on all counts. To note though, regular sleeve bearing fans don't like being run vertically. The oil drains out the sleeve and they sieze, so if he's going to run them vertically, it's best to buy fluid dynamic bearings or ball bearings.

They are designed to run directly off solar panels. Below voltage the unit will not turn on. (Well, if they operate normally, they will turn off. If that fails, it will kill the unit. I suspect that is the part failing in most units, which leads to the latter components failing in the inverter.)

Same, but no review

A UPS

jehugarcia oh okay. So is your grid tied inverters output connected to UPS’ input or is UPS connected to mains and you just cut the mains power manually? Or perhaps automated?

Ok

one of these inverters, on a system that the meter can't go backwards, will depend a little on the homes energy usage and what the meter is designed for. so, if your little inverter doesn't produce more power at anytime than your using, then all it will do is slow the meter down, as you are using the energy that you created. It's whenever you generate MORE power than your using at any one moment that things get wonky. some meters don't care what direction power is going, so it can actually charge you for the power you generated. Yes, you read that right, you have to pay for the power you sent back to the grid, rather than be paid for that power. Other meters just do nothing, as in they don't go up or down, which means the extra power you created is not negatively affecting you per say, but your not getting paid for it and your not paying for it. basically, its wasted (from your perspective that is, from the power companies perspective they got free power from you). now, if you generate more power than your using, and you don't have a net metering plan with your power company, you could get in trouble with your power company. these little inverters are HEAVILY frowned upon, and technically are illegal (from my understanding). if your always using more power than your producing at every single moment, then they have no way to find out. all they see is you using a little less power. They come with safety issues, of which 2 are a bit more prominent. The anti-islanding feature doesn't always work correctly is one. which can cause linemen to get shocked. The 2nd is that, because you have this inverter generating power, the circuit its on is likely to exceed its capacity. since electric circuits in a home are designed for just one source of power, the breakers are designed to pop before the wires burn up. but these inverters are a 2nd source of power. that means that certain cables could be having more power than what they are rated for running through them. since the inverter isn't in the same location as the original power source it was designed for, the breaker won't see that extra power, and thus won't pop. that results in wires that can burn up, and can set your house on fire. and i do see your comment is 2 years old at this point, so i know you might have gotten an answer elsewhere, but i just wanted to make sure you got it, just in case.

Was also looking for an answer to this question. Did you find a way to limit the inverter so it runs at e.g. 700Watts max?

Yes I’m currently working on it

repackr.com/

I'm not from US but i dont think anyone can generalize like that and say it's okay or not for whole US, I think it depends a lot where you are and you should check your local laws :) For example here where i live in EU, they are ofcourse quite picky with what they allow, having a list of tested and approved inverters. Chinese ones are not on it ofcourse. The main issue that grid owners have with these is, that they must not run if grid loses power, so that no technician gets zapped when repairing, due to your system sill pumping electricity to grid. Also meters can get all funky if they are of certain type. Meaning, that they might double read your generation into usage and make you pay for it :D So, know your risks and act accordingly.

Just had one fail and took it apart - I discovered a bad cap in the three big in a row mine is designed with.

Easy, you plug the inverter into a Kill-A-Watt power meter, and then plug the meter into the wall outlet. The meter shows Volts, Amps and Watts flowing into your house.

@@sed6 Normally, the kilowatt meter measures current coming out of the wall outlet, so would the Kilowatt meter read a negative value?