Only video I could find on how to use this tool, thank you very much.

The pin should not be sticking out like that but should be flush with the holding thing, they way you did it can break

Just a tip, unless you plan on keeping the chain, you might as well grind through the entire chain. It's much quicker and doesn't risk damaging the tool. But I agree, there is a technique if you do plan on pushing the pin out and the reviews are probably because people expect the tool to push the pin out without grinding down the head of the rivet first.

Just bought the exact tool to do my Sprint GT 530 chain. I just used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on the chain as it was toast anyway - much less bother than driving out pins. I found that the back anvil (2 holes) was out for pin centres but that was easily fixed with a few swipes of a needle file. You need this to compress the new link over the X-rings before swaging the rivets. Just connect the new chain with a zip-tie to feed it off the old one. I measured the total width of the existing links to avoid over-compression creating a bound link. This may take a few goes but 1mm pitch thread is near enough to 0.040”, so a full rotation gives that. Wasn’t deeply impressed with the swaging function but when fully closed up to the shoulder of the rivet swaging rod it gave about 0.004” expansion, so plenty given that the outer link plate was a tighter than interference fit over the rods and had to be driven over them. Only pickup I had with your method was that you had much of the pin unsupported and probably could have started with it flush with the outer sleeve, which also helps to clamp it square on the link.

Excellent video on how to use this tool. Thank you very much. Subscribed!

Bro I didn't know a turtle was explaining this omg I'm anxious asl

When driving out the link pin always start with the drive pin slightly recessed inside of the drive bolt. With the tip of the drive bolt snug on the link it will center the drive pin on the chain pin.

Nice easy to follow video, thanks.

Good video. I am a cyclist and the chain breaker tool for a bicycle is no different; has the same features. The main bolt that is hollow that you slide the pin and spring into should be tightened and aligned to the chain link's pin as well to fitting the bottom of the tool to the other side of the chain's link. No more than hand tight is necessary. And when I say hand tight I mean snug and not grit-your-teeth hand tight. That is what keeps it aligned and reduces the chances of the pin bending because it keeps it aligned, holds the tool in place and shortens the distance from the bottom of that hollow bolt that has the pin aligned which helps the pin of the tool from distorting its shape. You can confirm this by watching the video when towards the end of the video Mr. poor-n-rich has tightened that hollow bolt closer to the link so the pin of the tool can push the pin of the chain all the way through the chain's roller. This is how the newer (since the last several years) bicycle chain cutters work which is an improvement to reduce the chances of the pin being bent and to ensure that the tool is being used proper; as well to have used a camera stand and perhaps for even more entertainment value, juggled some of those smaller pieces to the set that weren't explained what they were for. I am still happy to know how this tool's basic function works prior to ordering. Oh, I forgot to mention, grinding is primitive tool and should be considered before use. When you grind you are essentially spewing little swirls of swarf or minute size pieces of sharp metal. Any mechanical engineer knows that these particles of swarf will literally embed itself into paint and even glass, which may show rust spots if left out in the rain. It looks weird having to see these mysterious rust spots to paint. I know from decades of automotive experience that this can occur. Just good practice to not use a grinder near unprotected paint parts (up to 6'). Yes you can mask off the area but having the right tool is a rule to an easy life style which should be practiced daily. I can't wait to get my bike through safety and onto the road! Thanks!

Thanks for the help

I just used on a 520 DID chain worked perfect i would recommend soaking link in motor oil or PB Blaster ect before using! Pin slide right out

Spend money on a better breaker kit. I'm a retired professional, and I'm really easy on my tools. I believe on using discount tools if they do the job a few times (unlike Snap-on that are meant for making money) BUT...almost everything I have used in this kit has failed on just one D.I.D 525. I WOULD NOT recommend buying this kit on Amazon.

I just ordered one of these for $36 NZD. Other that seemed the same were $130 NZD. Im anxious to see if it works when it arrives.

Thanks !!!! Same bike…..same kit…..

thank you for this

Well, mine didn't work. The pin and spring won't go through the hole. The hole isn't big enough, so the pin is jammed inside the tool. Looks like I get to order another one.

Cheers boyo

dood, you don't have to push that pin all the way out, just push the pin out enough to break the chain, then as you need more length from the push pin screw the top in, why its spring loaded, and where there is a hex head on the threaded rod, you use a wrench on that, if the pin is sticking out maybe 1/8th" then it cannot bend while breaking the chain rivets, then if you need more length you screw in the adjuster rod.. it takes way more pressure to break that riveted link rod, so only protrude the breaking pin enough to break that rivet, then you can either go to the other rivet and break that then remove the plate and full ling or push that pin all teh way out like you did, so you would screw the adjust in to get more rod length to push that link pin all the way out.. don't have that break pin sticking all the way out at first.. good way to break it then you're screwed .. I know the instructions are great aren't they? welp, maybe you got some, I didn't ..

Thank you... 650 versy

If you do it like that there is a good chance of breaking the pin. Watch Rocky Mountain ATV MC tutorial for this tool.

I thought Cycle Gear gave me a deal on this tool. Instead i got the same POS from Amazon. Fng cycle gear.

the tool is disposable to say the least, it is soft iron for a high displacement motorcycle is taking risks, its trick to insert the sheet metal with two holes, it needs a lot of light to see or it could be riveted, and if the chain is for pulling, it is simple, it is cut and that's it, there is no need to review or extract pins with that toy riveter which I do not recommend to anyone, for the same money a professional mechanic will do it for me with a professional riveter, still thanks for the video, good contribution to know how not to 

Darn, get a camera tripod

It's better to have the pin flushed so it doesn't bend.

You are working from the. Wrong side check the other side the pin head is smaller

Mine was junk every part bent or strips junk 😐 😒

even though it informative.. it annoyed me everytime when I watched a one handed video

🤦🏽‍♂️

Oggetto sconsigliato. Scarsa qualità. Ho perso due ore e alla fine l'attrezzo di è rotto nella filettatura e non mi ha ribattuto i rivetti. Ho risolto con un kit da dieci euro della ognibene. Ho risolto e chiuso la catena perfettamente in 10 minuti

This brand of breaker is absolutely useless. The metal used in its fabrication is almost mild steel and not worth the money.

Confidentially wrong you'd think you'd figure out how to use the tool before posting a video doing it incorrectly

Biggest waste of time ever. You already ground down one pin, why not do both pins then knock the side plate off with a flat blade screwdriver in about 2 seconds then remove link with your fingers

Please - find a better way to record your videos!