Thanks for the nice comment, Woody!

You're welcome..... Thank you!

Enjoy your new generator. Did you get the new 10,500 watt Tri-fuel version? Thanks for your comment!

@@SlipFitGarage No I got the 9000Ie or maybe ied? Its the gasoline only version though. It's fairly common for engine rebuilders to use break in oil which I dabble in so it was just automatic to use break in oil, but what caught my eye was you having the bottle on the thumbnail, I'm like hey this guy knows whats up! Anyways great channel, got my new oil dipstick today thanks for that tip.

Yep, I had a background in working with drag racing engines (all the way up to 12,000+ hp nitro funny cars) and break-in oil is common in that sport. Are you planning to use this generator mostly for home backup, like me.... or are you also using if for other things like camping, etc? Thanks for the compliments.

Thank you. I will be doing more generator videos after the new year. Stay tuned!

I still need to run my generator for about another hour or so before I feel that it's fully broken in. I will probably go to full synthetic after the breaking period is over. I just wanted to make sure the flat tappet camshaft and lifters didn't get hurt during break in..... and also help seat the piston rings in the cylinder. Between the filter screen and the magnetic tip dipstick I feel this generator has far better filtration (or ability to catch debris) than pretty much any other generator in this category. Thanks for the comment!

You cannot break an engine in at idle, it has to be under a mildly fluctuating load in order to fully seat the rings.

Probably true.... but by how much? The total "area" of the inside of the hose is probably about 4 table spoons worth of oil. That amount of oil missing from the crankcase is probably not even measurable on the dipstick.... and it certainly is NOT going to affect longevity of the engine. The generator in this video has been running great since this video was recorded almost two years ago. Thanks for the comment.

That certainly is an idea worth trying! Thanks for the comment.

You're welcome... thank you!

Congrats! I'm sure you'll love the new generators. I know I love mine! Let us know how everything works out for you. I'd like to hear about your generator setup.

Well, on my 9000 Dual Fuel Genmax, the main switch can just be left in the on position.... Pretty much indefinitely. You would think that would drain the battery but I have left it on by accident and the battery did not go dead. Apparently, all of the electronics that come on with the main switch, such as the electric meter display for example, everything eventually "times out" and everything basically goes into "sleep mode". I haven't really tested my remote start much. I don't know if the remote start system ALSO goes into sleep mode and therefor will not work after everything times-out, or if that will continue to work at all times. What I do know for sure is..... I have left that main switch on for months at a time and the battery never goes dead. I'm pretty sure the remote will always work now that I am thinking about it. I could test it tomorrow for you but your new generator will be delivered soon enough. Let me know how you like the new Tri-fuel generator. I am thinking about upgrading my dual-fuel generator for the new tri-fuel model. I have a natural gas kit here that I can retrofit onto my Genmax, but I'd rather just have a factory tri-fuel unit now that they're available. Thanks for the question.

If I'm not mistaken.... when the meter cycles through it's display modes, sometime it shows the run time since the engine was last started (for that current run cycle) and then it will show overall lifetime engine hours. It's been a while since I studied that on my generator so don't take what I just typed as 100% fact but it's something similar to what I just typed. And yes, if I remember correctly the hour meter didn't start reading correctly until after the first hour. Again, it's been a while but I do remember something about that. Thanks for the question and the compliment!

This particular break-oil is a petroleum product (non synthetic) but I will probably switch to synthetic once this last batch of break-in oil comes out. My local parts store seem to only stock ONE quart each of this break-in oil. I got my first quart at the local O'reillys auto, it was the only quart they had..... Then a few weeks later I bough the quart in this video at my local Napa and again, it was the only quart they had in stock. lolol. It's funny because what would most guys do with only ONE quart? It's not like there are any vehicles on the road that only take ONE quart of oil. lolol. I'm lucky when it comes to auto parts stores where I live. I have a Napa, Carquest, Auto Plus, O'reillys, and Autozone all less than one mile from my house.

@@SlipFitGarage Maybe they are catering to folks with small engine equipment like snow blowers. The crankcase capacity of my edger is only 3oz. My town is only population 12,000 but, I have a Ford Dealership, O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply Company, and a Walmart with automotive departments on the same street. The city police station, and post office is also the same building too. lol -Chuck

@@PanzerPlatform You do have a pretty good selection for a town of only 12,000 people. We have everything you mentioned (except Tractor Supply) but with a population of 90,000. This town has become too busy for me... but that's another story for another day. Lol.

I agree with everything you said. I also really would like to own the 6000 watt GM6000iED for when I don't need the larger 9000 but buying both was out of the question. Maybe someday I will buy the 6000 so I can have more options and added redundancy. I think you will be very happy with the Genmax 9000. How far out was the delivery window for your Genmax? Will it make it to your place before the hurricane is expected to hit? I will cross my fingers for you that you and your family make it through the hurricane with no trouble. As for reviews on youtube..... I can't speak directly for those people but my experience with ordering from Amazon was very smooth, and the generator itself has been excellent. I have zero complaints. Thanks for the comment!

@@SlipFitGarage Wont be here until next week, but this storm should not be bad for us. Same for the hook up cable, and all that. All a week out. I still have my 2000w Champion Power Equipment if needed for an emergency, it got us thru 6 days last time running fans, lights, and fridges. Very much looking forward to not needing to run extension cables, and grid power devices like room lights or ceiling fans after this gets here. I can tell you fuel was hard to get after the storm, one reason I prefer "just as big as needed" to use less fuel, and less trips out to refill. a 4500w would easily run everything overnight, and a 2nd turned on in the day would let us easily run everything in the house, having a large and a small generator would work, but having two small ones that can just run parallel would be even better.

I meant that I was halfway through the total amount of engine run time for the break-in period. In this video I show draining the original oil that was put in when the generator arrived new at my place on day one and the engine now had roughly 2.5 hours of run time on that original oil. You see me drain the original and refill it back with more of the same break-in oil to finish the remainder of the break-in period.... The second oil change where I drain the second batch of break-in oil happened 2 or 3 hours of engine run time after this video was made, and it is NOT shown in this video. You only see the first oil change of this generator. Keep in mind, this is MY break-in procedure. I am not telling anyone this is how they should break-in their new generator. To me, there really is no "set in stone" engine break in procedure for any engine. Sure, manufacturers will tell you how they would like to see you break-in a generator from them but that is just their opinion..... and everyone has a different opinion. So, with that said, please don't lose any sleep if you don't follow a break-in procedure exactly. The main purpose is to take it easy on the engine and generation components for a while and to flush out any metal bits and pieces left over from the machining process. The time frame given for this process is simply a suggestion. In my opinion, anyway. Thanks for the question.

Yeah, those have been around for a long time. I had one of those on my pickup truck in the 1990's. I decided to use the hose on this generator because the location of the drain port is not the easiest to get at.... especially with larger hands. The hose is easier to grab, and use..... for me, anyway. Thanks for the comment.

I've heard that before. lolol. Thanks.

I've heard that before. lol. Thank you for the comment!

There are many options in this world.

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.

Did you watch the video at all? I'm pretty sure I covered all the answers to your questions in the video. Electric start - Yes Remote start - yes Oil - 10w30..... I used specific "break-in" oil to start with which is not required by the manufacturer Fuel - ethanol free gas is better in ANY gas engine so yes, it's better to run Ethanol free gas It's 240 volts - yes, you can plug your 220/240 volt stove into the 240 outlet. You may need an adapter but the electricity is correct.

@@SlipFitGarage Sometimes I don't have time to watch the whole video because I'm at work.I just want some straight simple answers.

Maybe.... but we are really splitting hairs at that point. I put one quart of oil in my generator, run the generator, then check the oil again and it's still right at the full mark on the factory dipstick.

@@SlipFitGarage I was just wondering if using 32oz in a small engine designed for 37.2oz could cause an issue over time. Besides being about 15% low, I was thinking it might be possible a lower oil level in conjunction with unlevel ground would cause the low oil shutoff to engage. Just a thought. no biggie.

@BV 86 Well, in my mind, full is full. When the dipstick says full, it's full. Not to mention you CAN'T add more oil because of the design of the fill port. Once oil starts to run back out, it's full. One quart of oil in this engine with a funnel and some of it runs back out before you can get the dipstick screwed back in. It's impossible for a human to push oil uphill, higher than the fill hole. Also, in the world of gasoline and diesel burning engines, I can't think of a single engine that is designed to safely run ONLY when it's absolutely full of oil. There may be some extreme examples in Motorsports, but your average everyday vehicle and small gas engine equipment can run on probably 50% of the recommended oil level and cause zero damage. As long as the level of the oil pump pickup or the oil splashing device never runs dry, then it doesn't matter if there's one ounce or 10 gallons of Reserve capacity above that point.

The exhaust setup that I have installed on the generator is a mixture of a purchased kit, and a custom made mounting system. So, in other words, there is not a link to a portion of my exhaust setup...... and without the custom made mounting device, the part that you can buy really won't work properly. I have two videos in the works right now (one will go live live later this week) that are about other topics, but the following video after those two will be about the generator exhaust system. I would say within the next month the exhaust video will be made and uploaded to KZfaq. Thank you for your interest in the exhaust that I made/installed.

@@SlipFitGarage Thanks for your reply. I am waiting for it.

Thank you.

Maybe. I'd have to take another look to see how, or if that would work. If I'm not mistaken, the existing hole in the bottom was a thin oval slot, not a round hole. Not that it couldn't be drilled out bigger, but I can't remember if there was something else in the way under there. There had to be a reason why I didn't run it out the bottom. Or, maybe I just had a bran fart? lol. That wouldn't surprise me.... stranger things have happened. lol. Thanks!

I am almost certain that I left the washer on the drain plug. Edit: After just looking a the pictures of the drain hose shown on Amazon, It appears the drain hose has it's own built-in washer along with a sealing o-ring. So, there is NO need to use the washer from the drain plug because the drain hose has it's own sealing surface and o-ring already built in. Thanks for the question.

I just edited my initial reply so be sure to read my most current answer.

@@SlipFitGarage yeah after I wrote you that question I went ahead and tried to put the washer on, but doing so created a gap and blocked the rubber o-ring. So leaving the supplied washer off is the way to go.

No, sorry, I never did make a video about that yet. It's a custom made exhaust system to help get the noise and exhaust fumes up and away from ground level. The craziness is the mounting bracket that I made to support the custom exhaust system. The support bracket is made from uni-strut. I used cushion clamps designed to work with uni-strut that are the perfect size to clamp onto the existing round tubing frame work of the Genmax generator frame. Basically I made a VERY strong and sturdy exhaust bracket that required ZERO alterations to the generator itself. The entire exhaust system and mounting bracket can be removed from the generator with out a trace of it ever being there. Next time I have the generator out of the shed I will make a video about it. Thanks for reminding me about it.

Thank you so much for the quick reply. I enjoy and appreciate your videos. I love the "Craziness" reference, I'm the same way and I'm looking forward to more "Craziness." @@SlipFitGarage

Yes, it is a framework that I made and added to the generator (without altering anything the generator itself. No welds, not bolt holes, etc.) to hold up an exhaust stack without putting any extra weight on the factory exhaust pipe. The generator manufacturer recommends conventional 10w30 in the owners manual but once the engine is fully broke in, it probably wouldn't hurt to run full synthetic. In fact, I might run synthetic myself when I do the next oil change. Do you own one of these Genmax generators?

@@SlipFitGarage Yes, very happy with the purchase. I followed the break-in procedure and then put in amsoil and also added both magnetic dip stick and magnetic oil plug. Also used another youtuber's video showing how to make it home ready with floating neutral bonding plug.

​@Q R you may want to consider Amsoil small engine oil. It is a product specifically made for small engines like these generators, not just a rebranded oil. It is what I will be running when my 9000ied gets here on Tuesday.

@@jeremiahwhisler766 will do thanks

The filter screen may be just OK.... but it's absolutely better than any other generator on the market, in the same category, considering no other generators like this have ANY oil filtration whatsoever. And no, there is no connection for an external oil filter. Thanks.

Yes, correct. That is exactly what I did. And just to be clear.... break-in oil is NOT required by the manufacturer. That is something that I decided to do for myself. If it wasn't for catalytic converters required on all modern cars and light truck, then all of our oil on the market would still have the good zinc and phosphorus anti wear additives like all engine oil once had. They didn't remove those additives from engine oil because they don't protect engines, they removed them from the oil because it can hurt the efficiency of catalytic converters. Maybe that's fine for modern vehicles but I want all the protection I can get, especially during break-in, on these small air cooled gas engines. Just my opinion. I am not telling anyone how to break-in their new generator. I simply showed how I break in new small engines for myself. Thanks for the question.

Hi Gene, l I have not personally experienced any quality issues with this Generator at all, let alone any issues caused by bad quality. In fact, when I first unboxed the generator, the first thing that crossed my mind was how much nicer the build quality was compared to how I imagined it would be. The overall build quality and fit & finish seems very nice. However, one of the previous commenters in this comment section said he read about issues with a solenoid vale somewhere on the generator but I have not had any trouble. I'm not sure exactly what this solenoid vale controls, I'm sure it's either a gas or Propane vale, but if/when I ever do have any trouble, I will just fix or replace that vale with something else. For me, repairs aren't really an issue. I have always done ALL my own repairs on everything I own (except warranty repairs, if any) but I do understand that will be a concern for most people. My generator is just now barely broken-in so I don't have many hours on it yet. It's obviously way too early for me to give any recommendations based on longevity, but so far everything has been great. That's about all I can say about this machine so far. I wish I had more info that I could provide to you..... but maybe it's a good thing that I don't have any information? Maybe that means it's a decent generator after all? I guess time will tell. Thanks for the question.

@@SlipFitGarage Thank you, Brian (I'm assuming that's correct :)) Living here in FL is always a bit dicey during hurricane season. I wish I had started my research sooner in order to take advantage of Black Friday deals. Currently, this unit is about $2200 -- for a retired dude, that's a bit much -- but, I think I'm gonna bite the bullet anyway. My guess is the price will only go up from here as we get closer to stormy weather . Again, thanks for your reply. Like you, I don't like making modifications to things that I can't reset to original condition, but I like the mods you did on yours and will likely follow suit. Gene

Thanks, Gene. If you buy one of these generators, once you get it all set-up and running, maybe you could drop another post in this comment section to let us know what your opinion is of the overall quality, and how your purchase/delivery process went for you. Also, if you can remember to do so, if you click the link under my video that takes you to the Amazon listing for this generator before you make your purchase, then this KZfaq channel will get a small percentage for helping to make the sale. It doesn't cost you any more money, the seller of the product pays that small commission back to us after the fact. If you have any more question feel free to ask. Thanks again!

@@SlipFitGarage I asked the Genmax folks about the new 7250 model. It only comes with a 50 amp plug -- they assured me that with the included 30 amp adapter I would be fine. I went to the Amazon link for it and found so many disappointed buyers that now I have cold feet for any Genmax. So many buyers expressed disappointment in the customer service after the purchase. I really want a dual-fuel inverter and while I might consider the Honda unit -- it's gas only. We all know that when a hurricane hits FL -- the run on gas is a nightmare and being a sole source of fuel would be a mistake IMHO. Thanks for the link, Brian. If I decide to take the Genmax route I'll support you. Gene

@@genemcloud4114 Hi Gene.... I don't blame you for being cautious. Non of these import generators sold on-line have local support..... and MOST of the import generators sold in brick and mortar store have no support either. There is simply no official replacement parts supply chain. The best you might do is to buy a Powerhorse from Northern Tool (if you have one nearby) or a Predator from Harbor Freight. Neither of these options will repair your generator if it breaks, but at least you're dealing with a local company. However, the Harbor Freight extended warranty is excellent for the first two years. It's basically a no questions asked full replacement warranty. However, after those first two years, you're on your own again. The Predator 9500 (which is basically the harbor freight version of the Genmax in my video, made in the same factory) can be converted to run on either propane or natural gas with the help of a $180 - $200 dollar conversion kit. But again, if you have any problems after two years, you're on your own. Honestly, I hate to say it.... if you want guaranteed customer service and repair on a generator, whether it's brand new, or 20 years old.... Honda is really the only brand to buy. There are Honda equipment dealers all over the USA who are willing to do repair work on Generators, and there is an official supply chain of parts which makes repairs even possible to begin with. You might find a locally owned private repair shop to work on any brand of generator (even an import) but if/when that shop finds a potential problem, they probably won't be able to locate the parts required to make the repair. Just some food for thought. Thanks for the reply. Good luck on your search. 🙂

That's probably fine to break-in the engine part of this unit, but we're also trying to break-in the generator head that is connected to the engine as well. It's nice to vary the load on the generation unit while breaking it in. Thanks for the comment.

@@SlipFitGarage That I don’t understand. Never heard of breaking in an electric motor. Respectfully…

@@lchope573 Well, I get what you're saying but it's all part of the break in process. Feel free to break-in your generator how ever you see fit. 👍

Are they offering to reimburse you for the repair after you pay? Taking it to a repair shop is not out of line, I had to bring my brand new car into the repair shop not too long ago. Brand new mechanical things break sometimes. It happens. However, I am not sure who works on Genmax generators. They don't really have a repair network setup here in the USA that I know of. If the starter won't crank it may have bad starter. Does it do anything when you hit the start button? Does it make ANY noise? Does it even click? Without being there in person makes it hard to diagnose. Describe what it does (if anything) and maybe I can help. Sorry for your trouble.

@SlipFitGarage Genmax said I have to pay for the repair and they will only cover er the inspection. I have to bring this heavy machine to a nearby small engine repair shop.

I finally I got it to run after an hour of work. I tested the battery and at 12.4 volts must be low enough to not excite the starter. So I replaced the battery and also the 10 hour OEM Chinese spark plug with an NGK iridium. I now run much better than new. I say that since when it was new it never starts on propane in the 1st try. Now with the NGK iridium plug it starts immediately both on Gas and propane. One thing is apparent is the OEM battery and spark plug is low quality. My 12 year old ryobi beats this genmax. I wish Ryobi makes a competing product even at a higher price but good quality. @@SlipFitGarage

That's great news! I am happy to hear that you fixed it yourself. Nice job! Yes, cheap Chinese batteries and spark plugs are known problems. It's not a surprise those are the two items that let you down. I honestly thought the overall quality of the Genmax was pretty good. Especially for the price. You say the Ryobi is better quality than the Genmax... and that IS possible, don't get me wrong.... but I assume the Ryobi is also made in China so it's probably very comparable to the Genmax, in all reality. Either way, you're back up and running with the Genmax and that's all that matters. Thanks for the comments.

Yep, the hose COULD crack and leak oil..... The rubber fuel line going from the gas tank to the carburetor could also crack and leak gasoline... I could get struck by lightning while setting up my backup generator in a thunderstorm or tornado and potentially be killed. Etc, etc... If I ran my life by everything hat COULD happen, I'd never leave my bedroom.

That is the never ending debate. It's been going on ever since synthetic oil was invented. By now, we've had decades of evidence that shows synthetic oil lasts longer and probably lubricates better than traditional petroleum oil. If you want to run synthetic oil in your generator, I would recommend running traditional oil for the first few oil changes (even after break-in oil) this will help to insure the rings are seated, etc... But after that, you could probably run synthetic. But just keep in mind, nowhere in the instruction manual (that I know of, anyway) does it say to run break-in oil, OR synthetic oil. All of this extra stuff is beyond the manufacturer's recommendation. Basically, once the warranty runs out, you can run whatever you would like to run. Just my $0.02 cents. Thanks for the question.

@brianok100 thank you for your help. So I recently purchased a TriFuel Genmax, the new model 10500. Before I start having fun with it, I want to ensure all is done right. I've purchased this magnetic dipstick, magnetic drain plug, and even a small flat 2qt oil pan. In terms of the break in oil, there is also a synthetic break in oil as far as I remember. There are so many of these brands, Royal Purple seems to be a reliable brand, I've used AMSoil in one of my cars before, heard its good too. For me getting synthetic and paying more for it is not an issue, I just want to give my generator everything what's best. What do you think about synthetic break in oil, does it make sense to do it? Also, I've also seen some saying to first run the engine for 20 minutes, replace break in oil, then run for 5 hrs, and after two cycles put the oil you want, in my case I'd probably do synthetic. Would you stay with Royal Purple afterwards? Any recommendations? Probably don't matter too much what brand, as long as it's maintained. Thank you

@@paul9387 Like I said, it's been debated since the beginning of Synthetic oil. I realize cost isn't an issue. We're only talking about one quart of oil (roughly). lol. There are a group of people in this world (myself included) who thinks synthetic oil is great.... but for engine break-in, it's TOO good. You need zinc and phosphorus for flat tappet cam and lifters and that is specifically what "break-in" oil has that normal oil does not have these days. It was removed from modern engine oil because it's not good for catalytic converters on modern cars.... NOT because it was no longer needed... and because of that, pretty much all modern cars now use roller lifters nowadays. The end result is.... our engine oil is not as good in some ways as it once was. Those two additives are no longer in our oil. Period. As for using synthetic oil in a brand new engine.... even IF it had roller lifters, we still need to worry about piston ring seal. Getting piston rings to "seat" can be tricky with synthetic engine oil. It's too slippery for the rings to get a good 'seat". In my generator, I broke it in with Royal purple break-in oil. It ran for roughly 2-3 hours and then I changed it again with royal purple break-in oil, (as seen in this video) then I ran it for another 2-3 hours and I changed it again. (not seen in this video) This time I am running Valvoline VR1 10W30 racing oil. It's petroleum based and contains some zinc and phosphorus but it's not considered "break-in" oil. Maybe eventually I will change over to full synthetic but right now I still have 5 quarts of VR1 10W30 and I will continue to run that for now. My original plan was to switch over to full synthetic but I ended up going with the VR1 for good measure. You can do whatever you like. There really is not "right" or "wrong" oil to use. Like I said before, if it was mine, I would absolutely break in the engine with petroleum break-in oil. Change it out once or twice during break in, then switch to some sort of non break-in oil. In my case, I chose to stay with petroleum 10W30..... but you could switch to full synthetic at that point if you really want to. One thing that I would NOT recommend is breaking in an engine with full synthetic oil. It may be fine in a brand new car that has an engine designed and machined to run full synthetic from the factory, but a small gas engine from China is not in that same category. And again, as a final disclaimer..... just keep in mind, non of this is mentioned in the manufactures owners manual. As far as they're concerned, normal petroleum oil is just fine from day one. They probably do not recommend full synthetic because even they know it's too slippery for proper ring seal in their engines. Do whatever you would like to do. As long as you're using oil of some kind, any kind, then you're probably going to be just fine. Thanks!

@brianok100 thank you, I truly appreciate your help! I'll run first three on RP, after that I'll go with some good synthetic. One more question, they first recommend running no load let's say for the first hour. Would Eco mode be fine for that?

@@paul9387 Probably. But it's generally considered better if you vary the engine rpm during break-in. I ran mine for 5-10 minutes on ECO, then turned ECO off for 5-10 minutes, then back on for another 5-10, an so on. Eventually you could probably go 10-20 minutes between ECO throttle cycles, or maybe even longer. There is nothing set in stone about breaking in ANY engine so if you forget to switch ECO on or off at exactly the specific time don't lose any sleep over it. Honesty, most people fill 'er up with gas and oil, let it idle for a minute or two and then put it right to work with no easy break-in and 99 times out 100 everything is just fine. If you do the break-in like you've explained to me, that will probably be the best break-in that ANY Genmax generator has ever received.... You'll be just fine!

I did notice that after the video was made..... I don't have an extra 30 hours to break-in a generator.... 5 hours is PLENTY in my opinion. 30 hours is totally unrealistic for almost everyone. lolol. If it's going to break after the first 5 hours, then it's going to break regardless. To each his own, I guess. lol

I have not ran it yet on anything other than gasoline so I can't say for sure...... but I did read somewhere what the propane consumption should be around 50% load but I can't for the life of me remember what that was. Sorry. If you do a google search the results should probably pop up near the top of the page.

@@SlipFitGarage Thanks for the reply the Genmax GM9000iED Specs say 0.67 GPH Propane @ around 50% load so 1 - 100 gallon propane tank should at the very least get me at least 5 days not bad

@@markglenn24 Not bad at all.... Thanks for replying back with the info.

It was a catastrophe. LOL. There is a slot in the belly pan of the generator that the oil is supposed to drain out of.... and I had something under there to catch the oil but like I said, I had a catastrophic accident. lolol. I don't remember exactly what happened but something slipped and oil went everywhere. That's not gonna happen again with the new drain hose. Even IF the accident didn't happen, the belly pan is a terrible design. My generator dripped oil from the belly pan for months after that..... and that wasn't caused by me spilling the drain pan UNDER the belly pan, it's because of the terrible design of the belly pan itself. The new drain hose prevents all that mess. It won't happen again. TRUST ME! lolol. Thanks.

I bought a round oil pan from Harbor Freight and cutout the back quarter about 2 inches down using a Dremel tool. Oil pan slides right under the generator where the drain hole sits.

Sure.... could've been done a dozen different ways. Feel free to do it however you like on your generator.

You're right, I did not vacuum pump the oil out. But you can change the oil however you like on your generator. I keep telling myself I need one of those extractor's but I haven't bought one yet. Maybe next time....

Which part? The break-in oil? The Oil drain hose? Or the magnetic dipstick? When talking about break-in oil, you're right most people wouldn't bother with a $40K car, it's usually for guy who has built $50K-$100K racing engine. (very common in drag racing) Most people wouldn't waste their time with ONLY a $40K vehicle. The drain hose (and/or drain hose quick disconnect) is actually a fairly common installation. Just because you're not aware of it, doesn't mean it's not happening. A new $40K automobile has a warranty with a local dealer network that will fix your car for free WHEN it breaks. I've also never seen a modern $40K vehicle sold with tons of metal shavings in the crank case from the factory like these Chinese engine or notorious for.... the magnetic dipstick is cheap

It only had a few hours of time on the engine..... I wanted any small metal shavings that had sunk to the bottom of the engine to drain out of the drain hole, NOT get stirred back up and ran through the engine again. Sure, a LOT of people warm the engine first before an oil change.... but it's not like it's BAD if you don't warm the engine. lol. Feel free to change your oil how ever you like.

What word would you use instead of "upgrade"?"

Hey, I don't like it either but I have no choice. There are products that all Americans use on an every day basis that are simply NOT made in the USA any longer. Anyone who claims they ONLY buy products made in the USA is either completely ignorant, or liar. There are ZERO 9000 watt inverter generators manufactured in the USA. Even a lot of Honda equipment is now manufactured in China and Taiwan.... and is FAR out of my price range.

@@SlipFitGarage You give great reviews don’t get me wrong 👍. But you can’t keep supporting the CCP at any cost. Do like I do save up your money a little longer. You don’t have to buy American just not communist countries there killing us. Believe me I bought alot of CCP products in the past and fully regret it now.

Lol. Not sure if you've been in a cave the last 8 years, but most large American companies have lost their minds and are actively anti-American. I'll buy from small US businesses, but if I'm buying from a large company, I absolutely prefer the Chinese (or anyone else) to large US companies. Sure, they might hate Americans, but large "woke" US companies are a much more immediate danger.