I have two 100Ah Redodo batteries for my box, I had a small issue with one, and their customer service was amazing. I had a few hiccups in the beginning, but it was my fault not theirs. like always amazing review.

Finally someone agrees with me about batteries should serviceable.

Well done Clark. Thanks for doing reviews like this that apply to both boats and RVs.

Excellent review, thanks

Thanks, I'm looking to get new batteries on my sailboat. You are just the person I need to watch.

Great post Clark. Respect. Always a pleasure. ⛵️🌴🌞

Another great review for the series. Sometimes the manufacturers are trying to hit an industry size standard. Not necessarily in every situation though. I also thought that the internal wiring was under sized. Trying to save money I guess. Good advice on the 2 battery minimum. Thanks. Now I guess I’ll suffer through another Emily and Clark episode to help out the algorithm. I’ve no problem doing that to help a friend. Cheers 🍻

Great reviews!

The premium for bigger cases is why I haven’t bought one.Nice vid!

I’ve had 2 of these in use for 12 months now and have been exceptionally happy with output in my application.

Hi Clarke, this review series is awesome, thanks for all this information. Too bad you don't do 100ah anymore, I was really hoping you would do a review of the Li Time.

Wow, what an informative video, Clark! It's great to see you experimenting with different lithium options. Based on the comments, it's clear that the Redodo 410ah has impressed many sailors with its output over a year of use. As for the advantages of your bank manager, it's worth looking into whether the BMS would offer benefits in protecting your alternators and preventing fire risks. Keep up the fantastic work on your channel. Keep sailing and sharing your knowledge! 😃👍👏👏👏👏👏👏

You dont know how cool I find these setups.I am electrician,and dont take many statements from people about batteries like....be careful,they explode and all these things you might hear a lot too.Some might even think you put your life at risk....But you really know what you are doing.Super useful and something normal folks really should NOT try thenmselves. : ) Its definitely cheaper to replace one with warranty than to put in stronger wiring right away for all.Who uses the BP to the fullest? Almost never ever.

Well Clark, back again with just a few concerns about what I am doing. I currently have 6ea Valance U27-12XP batteries on my house (Starboard bank and 3ea group 24 lead batteries on the other bank. You suggested a timing relay to combine these batteries while running and then the timer would disconnect then shortly after engine shutdown. I just put a large jumper from one battery to the other and left it that way for 2 months while using the boat. During the day I would get to 14 volts and by morning I would be at 13.2 volts. This worked great while in use and when put into storage, I separated the batteries again. This year I am changing some things up again. I have purchased another 6 Valance U27-12XP batteries and going to replace the port bank with these. Then I should have no problem with balance. As with the Starboard bank, I used 3 feet of #4 wire from each of the 6 batteries to a buss bar where I connected the original boat wiring. I will do the same for the other battery, but may have to use longer lengths of #2 wire because a larger spacing issue, but will keep the same resistance whatever that length needs to be, perhaps 4 feet. Now I have far exceeded the limits that state really only having 4 batteries max in parallel, but as long as all tie together into the buss bars with equal resistance wires, I think there should not be a problem. Now each bank is charged from a seperate 140 amp alternator through a 130 amp isolator. I have found the isolator actually helps keep the amperage down on the alternators, but I will check it closely. The batteries also get charged during the day from hopefully 2600 watts of solar. I say hopefully because I really only have 1000 watts installed at this point and am planning on another 1600 soon. Any thoughts by you or anybody would be greatly appreciated. A great feature of this setup is 1800 amps continuous from the batteries and 3600 amps for 30 seconds surge. It is overkill by at least double from what I need. I have a 3000 watt inverter and another 2000 watt inverter dedicated to the watermaker. This can be a very substantial load when both running, but would be rare to have both combined above 4000 watts, more like 2500 watts. I found no real problems with the current setup except when sitting at anchor for 3-4 days in bad weather waiting for a window to move. Now I will have the capacity to sit for a week at least while waiting without worry or starting the generator. (I hate running the generator)

Thanks Clark, another excellent review. I was considering installing a couple of these to replace my 4 x 120 Ah Lead Acids, managed by your BBMS of course, as I can get these in Europe and they will deliver them to my boat in Croatia. Getting batteries to fit into the space available has proved difficult and limits my choice and but one of these is a snug fit where two of the old ones sit. But, your comments about the poor quality cell, and too small wires, is putting me off. Will you be taking this up with Redodo, if so I would be interested in what they say, if nothing they have lost a customer as I was considering two of these batteries.

My 600 ah lithium lifpo4 calb plastic encased cells are 200 ah each 3 in parallel and then put in series for 12.8 v 600 ah so 3P 4S setup with a 200 amp daly BMS and i use a xantrex freedom xc 2000 inverter charger here in my camper Van i live in

Checked out the leaderboard. Great work! I am sure you said but, are you going to test out 48V batteries? Thanks for answering when a big battery vs several small batteries applies.

Does the algorithm work from week to week, 'cause I watch them all. One more thing, what is you electrical channel?

Hi Clark, long time subscriber here. Have u thought about reviewing some server rack batteries? i'm thinking of using them on my boat . . . thoughts?

Nice

Clark, great video - thanks!! I have a pure lithium house bank (4x Dakota 277's) that are charged by the solar, alternators, H2000 Gen/shore-power directly and DC DC chargers back to 2x FLA start. Would there be any advantages to your bank manager. I already own your DCAC. I do not architecturally like that the drop-in BMS is isolate and therefore cannot, for instance, gracefully shut down high Amp charging (alternators for instance) to protect from frying expensive Alternators or risking a fire event. Any thoughts as to whether your BBMS would be of benefit with this architecture?

The Boat How To course teaches that when connecting batteries together, you make all of the wires the same length so that the resistance of the wires between the batteries is the same for each battery.

Hi Clark. Though it would be nice to see them up the standard of wiring in these, I think a house ank of 4 of them would be pretty nice for a discharge rate of say 150 amps over 12 hours, before getting charge put back into them wouldnt be getting anything warming up too much ? For me, for 150 amps over 12 hours is likely an overestimate tbh, and thebank size of 1600 ah, should give a decent amount of power in an emergency, while still having gas for cooking. I'm, iking this one tbh. Best Wishes. Bob. 🤔👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤️

Do you talk about Hall Effect vs Shunt Resistor and why you made that choice and what is your opinion about using shunt resistor monitoring in general elsewhere.

How does the maximum current draw compare between different sizes of battery? For example 2 200AH as compared to 1 400AH or 4 100AH? You are correct that for most people, having power for a greater length of time rather than lots of power right now is the reason for more AH overall. What about those who are using them for motive power? does it make more sense for them to have more smaller batteries? Or I guess the real question then becomes: how many of these can be in series? I guess if it makes 48V (and I think most of them will that is ok. most boat drives with high voltage motors come with their own sealed battery anyway.

I scanned the comments looking to see if anyone else asked this question, but I didn't see it so I'll toss it out there. When you were discharging the battery, you mentioned that the shorter wires were the ones that got hotter, which makes sense. I'm curious if the shorter wires also go to the cell that is most imbalanced. You said that the capacity of the cell pair might have been slightly lower, but I'm wondering if the shorter (hotter) wires are connected to that cell pair, thus carrying more load while discharging since the resistance is lower, and thus also carrying slightly more current while charging causing that cell pair to always discharge and charge faster than the other cells. If that's the case, simply replacing the wires with all the same length would be a simple but major improvement to the manufacturing of this battery. Every video and piece of literature I've seen always says to keep your parallel wires the same length to avoid this exact problem when connecting multiple battery packs together, but the same principle should apply to the individual cells as well.

How many batteries depends on your load. if you only need to power a 3kw inverter which runs at 2400 watts then 1 battery is fine. if you need to have 5kw inverter, 4000 watts then I would go with 2. Having dual 5kw inverters 4 banks is preferred. This is to keep the C rating down for charge and discharge so you do not overwork your batteries. This is why I like 48v batteries best. Having 4 banks of 48v pulling 10kw is less than .2C where with 12.8v is .8C at the same cell size. That is a lot more heat and load on the electronics. IF you build your system right it can last you 2-3 decades.

A point against the company: I was researching some DC-DC chargers and was looking at one Redodo makes. I like to have a look at the manual before I buy something like this, just to make sure there aren't any surprises when the thing shows up at my door. But when I emailed them asking for a manual, they told me I couldn't have the manual until I bought the item. Specifically they said: "I'm sorry to say that because our manuals will contain some of our company's more private information. Due to confidentiality requirements, this information is not convenient to share with customers who have not placed an order. Hope you can understand." I'm sorry, but no, I don't understand. I can't imagine how that policy protects the company's private information if they ship a manual to every customer with the product. Maybe they want to keep secrets from their competitors? They can just buy one of each product and get the manuals. The policy is completely baffling, it seems downright hostile to customers. It makes me wonder what a company has to hide. Is there something in the manual that would make me NOT want to buy your product? Pretty hilarious coming from a country that doesn't seem to believe in intellectual property laws.

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Well done testing! That's considered a bad battery when it doesn't provide full capacity. That's a warranty situation. Maybe you don't want to offend the company but that's the black and white conclusion. Is it still fully usable? Yes. Either the IR on those two cells are drastically off or for some other reason the capacity is less. But B grade cells still pull full capacity so this is really poor QC at the factory.

Hi @EmilyAndClark , congratulations for the video. I have a doubt...if the cables are number 2 AWG 6 for the positive terminal and number 4 AWG 8 for the negative terminal, the maximum amperage they can support is a maximum of 200 amps and you're at the limit anyway, so they are undersized compared to the 250 ampere given by the factory... and therefore it is not the best, correct me if I'm wrong: there is a risk of melting or burning some cables internally and unpredictable damage could occur right?

Have you had the chance to review the Mehrpow battery yet?

What are your thoughts about the next-gen solid state batteries? Too far out in the future to think about practically?

I am curious if you have ever looked at the EG4 batteries supplied by Signature Solar? I only ask as they are semi local to me and I could pick them up and save shipping. I am more interested in a 48V system but I am reluctant to pull the trigger on a lithium battery. I am excited that the prices are coming down.

What does everyone do with the batteries that are cut open for tasting?

The power density some of the newer battery designs offer is a big deal. Half the reason I'm waiting on 7kwh of raw cells to get loaded on a slow boat is so I can fit them in a fairly small compartment on my rv.

The list hasn't been updated yet. I mean it's there but it's listed as TBA with no video link.

Reasons i did my own battery setup cause my wiring and bus bars can handle 300 amps and not get hot

With 12V 100Ah battteries from PowerQueen, Redodo, LiTime and similar budget brands going for just over $250 right now it makes no sense to buy one big one especially when a battery 4 times the size is 5 times the price...and ends up being less capable than the big battery. The only advantage being the 12V 100Ah batteries come in cases meant for Lead Acid/AGM batteries so there's a ton of empty space. The Mini batteries from the above mentioned batteries solve that problem (unless you really have something against pouch cells). Even the "regular sized" 12V 100Ah batteries can simply be removed from their cases and you can put 4 of them in a box and parallel them on a central bus bar system for $30-$50. That plus a little bit of extra cable and some lugs is your only expense. The big batteries typically have a 200A or 250A BMS....with four 100Ah's you get 400A continous.....Then you get redundancy if the BMS craps out. Which is the most common point of failure for a battery that's going to be a tank for 5+ years in terms of cells.... So the advantage of size....out the window with the Mini's or pulling them out of their oversized cases. They make no sense.

what is the best (cheapest) 36 volt lithium battery for a trolling motor

Does it cold weather charge protection?

Well, Hopefully I don't also have a lemon since I bought 2 of these a couple of months ago! I wanted to increase my total Ah and these were the only ones that fit in my available spaces! Going with 200Ah batteries I would have been OK using 3 - but neither of my battery spaces could physically fit 2 batteries! The smaller gauge wire is a bit concerning - but I never draw anywhere near that kind of current so I should be good. Also curious to know when/if you get any feedback from REDODO on your results.

Appreciate your reviews, but why are we still talking about batteries in terms of amp hours and not watt hours?

So I’ve heard that if you budget 400 Ah you should get a 400 Ah battery. Vs. getting 4x100Ah batteries. Save on wiring. Etc. but then if that one battery has a failure you have nothing. If you have 4x100 Ah batteries and you have a failure (like a BMS craps out) you still have 300 Ah that you can use. What’s better? Wouldn’t the redundancy of multiple batteries be worth it?

Another great video and invaluable information. Now, if I had bought this battery and of course would not test it as you do, would I notice that the battery is sub-par and would it impact my electrical setup?

I wish

one cell 3.6, the others 3.4xx, you call no concerning imbalance ??

He only half-mentioned the old saying, but here is your public information announcement... "The proof of the pudding is in the eating". There! How do you "prove" (an older meaning of "prove" meaning more like "test") if a pudding is good? By eating it! That's the way you test puddings, other methods, like looking at it, or weighing it, aren't going to give you the proper proof. Eating it is. There you go, obvious. But when people say "The proof is in the pudding" they sound like Sherlock Holmes or something, where somebody's cook has accidentally / deliberately put arsenic in a pudding, and that's the proof of the murder / accident. Or maybe there's a treasure map hidden in there, or some crucial evidence. Maybe it's drugs. But NO! The proof of the pudding is in the eating! That's the saying! Drives me nuts when people get it wrong! So please, on behalf of all that's right and good in the world, use the saying properly, thank you.

The problem i have seen in most of these reviews is that the battery company knows its going to be tested and opened. So they make a "special" battery for the review process . I have seen others (you tubers)that will later just buy one like a normal customer would and do a tear down and there is completely different low quality internals. Hard to trust a review when the company knows what's coming.

Keep in mind it would get significantly hotter with the cover on.

😃👍👏👏👏👏👏👏

HAHAHAHA Redodo sent a reviewer with 77K subscribers a battery they didn't even discharge test before shipping it out. This is the kind of shit I love about China. They just don't give a fuck. 99% of American companies would have some low level employee check the battery.

I thought you where going to cook and review: Batter.

Hmm.. I don't like those cells being on their sides inside the battery. Prismatics usually need to be right-side-up for the over-pressure vents to work properly during a failure. Otherwise they spit electrolyte instead of gas, or don't vent at all. Silicon sheathed wiring is typically good to 250C and rated to 200C. Not that the BMS can handle temperatures that high. But using undersized wires is pretty typical for low-cost batteries as a money-saver. Not ideal, but it won't fry anything. The mismatched cells, also very common in low-cost batteries, in particular that one cell which you did a great job in identifying, and not being able to pull full capacity on a brand new battery, means those are probably grade B cells and not grade A cells. If you want to, you can try reading the QR code label on the raw cells. If the label is scratched out or does not exist, or if someone pasted a fake label over the original label, then the cells are probably grade C (used originally-higher-capacity cells instead of new cells)... which is also fairly typical in low-end batteries. It is supposed to be a 400Ah battery, 4s2p, so 200Ah cells. But they could easily be used 250Ah cells instead. I don't really expect Redodo to go that far down the rabbit hole, so they are probably still new, just grade B. -- Beyond that, it seems like an expensive boat-anchor. Once one starts getting into higher capacities the limitations of 12V battery architectures become apparent very quickly. 12V is fine for a small system, but you pretty much want to go straight to 48V (16s, 51.2V nominal for LiFePO4) in larger system where heat and losses are 1/16th that of 12V systems and most of the wiring can just be 10 AWG (2 AWG for the battery interconnects to the bus bars, and 10 AWG for everything else). Beware of low-end batteries marketed as "48V" but which are 15s instead of 16s. Never buy 15s "48V" batteries, you will regret it later.... the low-voltage cut-off point is too low for a lot of equipment. And unfortunately, I think Redodo's "48V" LiFePO4 battery is 15s. Note that your electrical engineering description of amps and heat was a bit mangled. I think you got slightly confused about the 2x 6 gauge vs the 3x 8 gauge wire bundles. Parallel wiring will split amps differently based on relative resistance, but the total number of amps going through the bundle does not change. The amps flowing in a closed loop (battery terminal to battery terminal) are the same. They won't be higher in one part of the circuit and lower in another no matter what the relative resistances are. The variable heat comes from the resistance of the wire segments (cross sectional area x length). The amps are regulated by the load in this case. Remember amps are just counting electrons. For every electron leaving the battery, an electron has to enter on the other terminal. I think you knew that, you just got the description a little crossed up. -Matt

These batteries are not suitable for a boat. No Bluetooth means you can not see cell voltages at a glance. No active balancer means the cells won't balance well. It's very revealing to see how unbalanced those cells were when you checked them. This suggests either poor cell balancing at the factory or poor cells or both. Save up and buy a better battery if you are installing it in a boat. Make sure the battery has Bluetooth and an active balancer. It will save you money and frustration in the long run. It may even save your boat when these crappy batteries do a high voltage shutdown as you are entering a harbour at night, in the rain and your radar, chartplotter, depth sounder, nav lights and autopilot go off.

Nothing in your video regarding safety and do/don'ts, wouldn't recommend doing this in a domestic property.

The promotional code did not work? EmilyAndClark