Agreed. When he said "people think it's super expensive but it's not" I expected that to be the end of the sentence regarding price. Glad he actually just came out and said it so now I can consider this in my project.

He priced it low so you become interested this is how business works ...and you proved it by your statement!

I bet it changed after this Ad

@@Eduardo_Espinoza 🇬🇧 does he collect all the shit and chemicals he's power washing off, or does it all go down a drain , into the river ?

@@englishbob5106 he said it's environmentally friendly, so I wouldn't bat an eye.

Things generally do , tv gives a misconception of just how much time goes into restorations , I watch bad chad , he doesn't delete or edit anything , you literally see the car being built in real time 👍

That's a good thing. There are more than a few horror stories of guys dropping off their body and getting tin foil back. Incredibly acidic bath, or the temperature was significantly higher, or the operators were not checking progress like they should.

@@thestreets5206 overhaulin. Yep done in a week. Any and all of em. Fools the average guy into thinking it'll be a couple months. I've had stuff I've been wrenching on since 2019 and it's not even close to ready. Of course I can only get like 2-5hrs a week in, and maybe 4hrs a night on weekends if too much life doesn't happen. So around these parts ,it took all winter to remove and replace timing chains and reinstall the engine with new parts along the way on anything I touched. this ain't overhaulin round here, and it's not even what I'd call a restoration.

@@ShainAndrews the bath is a TOOL. Like any thing else it's the operator. Not the tool. This is where those DYNO blow up videos come from. Poor operators.

@@thestreets5206 Project Binky.

also you need clothing and food prior and a garage to put the shell in

5

For 2500 you can buy a decent car where I'm from. Edit:for the amount and quality of work that's done I guess it's affordable

@@someone862 , for that amount, their service is definitely for vintage luxury cars for reselling.

@@someone862 For 2500, can't even buy a 1970s car over here. Or an old used trishaw/tuk tuk with a million+ kilometers. Maybe a used Indian motorcycle..

It's 2500 for the dip... but don't forget the cost of removing EVERYTHING..

agreed.

Not to mention, no dust!

Thank you I really appreciate that!

Informative, honest and cute! Trevor's got it goin' on 😜

@@rachelelrod7339 ☺️☺️☺️

Sandblasting or media blasting by a less experienced operator can also damage and distort the metal to the extent that it is way more difficult to work. Speaking from experience.

It would have been more appropriate to see Two-Face (Harvey Dent) going into the acid bath

@@Indium111 no because joker was the one who fell into chemical container and became crazy

Shouldn't that be the Toxic Avenger, instead?

@@jeffbecker8716 I don’t know, I think it was referencing the 1989 Batman movie where Jack Nicholson falls into the big vat of acid and turns into the Joker. I grew up on that movie. 😂

Evidently, the theme of bad guys being affected by chemicals or acid accidents is a pretty common one.

How long did it take with the old way of doing things? Same as the new enviro friendly chemicals?

@@Knibbelkoning No where near it. I could have a body in and out in 2 days if it was really bad. If we just got single panels, we dipped for 2 hours and brushed off the paint into another vat, then dipped for another hour and they came out spotless. You can do all 4 doors and boot/bonnet in the one go.

Know anyone where in QLD/NSW that does it these days mate ?

Bro you okay?

$500 dollars in the 70's would be equivilant to $3500 dollars today adjusted for inflation. Similar pricing

Sounds fantastic, Squeaky.

Good for THEM....?

Aren’t you special

Cool. Interesting to see how methods change over time

I’m sure I fry my eggs much different than you do mr cutlass, but their still delicious every morning and nothing bad has happened to me in 56 years of doing it that way

@@1982MCI they're

It's actually acid

@@thestreets5206 ok cool, makes you wonder how long they had to dip car racing shells in the 70's. It was common practice to reduce their weight by acid dipping.

@@thestreets5206 A company in the UK also does this but they pyrolyse the body first at 400 degC , seems to make it a lot quicker.

It takes so long because they are using "environmentally" friendly chemicals. Harsher chemicals, stronger phenol based types, can strip paint in hours. We use phenol type strippers to take paint off large aircraft in a matter of hours. Paint literally drips off the surface.

@@VaporheadATC Ok thanks. I used to get involved in aircraft refurb work, I vaguely recall on some, like the VC10, chemical paint removal was forbidden, old paint had to be sanded off!

LOL. You probably want a chrome shop in the back yard too... well as long as it isn't your back yard. They closed shop because they chose to not deal with the hazardous materials side of things. The entire industry must continue to evolve. Maybe back off the theatrics while you are at it. Not everything is Nazi...

@@ShainAndrews OK Communist.

@@seeburg10 You don't even know what communism is. You just hear your dictator say it... then you all chant it in your echo chamber.

4q

@@seeburg10 hope you enjoy chemicals leeching into your water supply.

Media Blast has always been the best way to strip a car it doesn't warp or deteriorate the metal every car I've ever done in the last 30 years have turned out very well

You document the disassembly process. Notes, pictures, video, bags and boxes to label parts. It's time consuming, but it's more time consuming to figure it out later from memory.

And depending on make, model and year, you can always get reproductions. Some cars, say like a 69' Mustang or Camaro, you can practically build a new one from scratch. Even an old school VW Beetle. Hell even old Model A or T Fords, you can find a lot of parts, because they made so many of them, and they were made to last and were fairly simple to maintain. There are still quite a few second hand parts out there for them. The aftermarket scene out there is amazing these days.

The people who own these car bodies have every single part already sitting in there garage. They removed them from the very same car in preparation for this process.

A whole lot of time and a photographic memory definitely helps! Or at least the skill and knowledge to know what’s vital to being replaced

Then do you try to primer and paint all of those hard to reach places and places that aren't seen that are covered by different things like carpet, door panels and headliner or do you coat those places with something different?

@@bodeine454 you can use a combination of primer and cavity grease

@@husk1c I've never heard of cavity grease, I'll have to research it, thank you 👍

@@bodeine454 Thanks for your question, My car had serious rust issues all over it, 99% of people would of scrapped it, so it meant a full rebuild was needed, the route I chose was to individually Acid Dip every panel, original ones taken off the car that were reusable and New Old Stock, every panel was then rinsed in a tank of boiling hot water, that heats up each panel and hot water evaporates faster than cold, hot air was used to dry each panel, once I was happy it was rust free, clean steel, 2 etch primer coats were applied on all surfaces so for the "A" posts for example inside the box section multi coats of Etch, Zinc, Red Oxide, Graphene,, a shrink & crack proof waterproof flexible coating,Grey Primer, 6 x Body Colour and Lacquer coats were applied, allowing 24 hours between each to fully cure and baked on, a total of 32 layers, went into the inside of every panel that was going to be enclosed the edges of panels that were going to be spot welded together were both coated in the best quality weld through Zinc Primer, so as the welds are done it melts and runs around each spot fully coating up to it, with the addition of Professional Motor industry body panel construction bonding sealant between spot welds to ensure the seams were water tight, and no condensation can form in the seams, and once the car was completed and body shop top coats sprayed, a further cavity wax injection process on top, a crazy amount of work, cost, and time, but the end result is the best protected anti rust treatment inside the shell, probably of any car ever built, My channel shows the car before the work it was extremely bad, and some of the anti rust treatment stages, and full reconstruction to a as brand new shell.but better protected than Ford or any other manufacture has ever done. I hope you found that process informative, a lot to read but a lot to explain, lol. .

@@husk1c I have and a lot more besides, the one problem in only trusting to a primer coat (not all types are waterproof, and a tiny scratch will cause rust.), & if the scratch is missed by the cavity wax injection (which is a great product),you have problems, as you can not see in to hidden box sections, many have reinforcing plates, and if you miss covering the tiniest of spots,around them, or any where when applied, rust will start and corrode metal and creep under the wax, grease, oil, underseal and rubberized coating. Condensation rots cars from the inside out, so 100% clean steel, fully sealed is the only way to ensure it will not start.somewhere, My car was undersealed and cavity wax injected, parked up for 12 years unused in the open exposed to damp, wet, mist, cold, ice, & snow, but the rust started in missed areas inside the box sections, and porous painted ones, and ate big holes throughout the car.

They said in the video that they out a water based rust inhibitor on to prevent rust until you are ready to paint it. If you don't want that, I'm sure you can ask them not to put it on at the end.

Any idea how hot, and for how long? That still does not sort the rust issue though.

Not necessarily true . By the time you get it back and start sanding it for epoxy primer and letting it sit a week to fully cure and then start doing your body work the chemicals will dry out I done a few cars that were done this way and it's a lot nicer than sanding everything out and sandblasting warps the metal I seen a few cars blasted and it does more damage than good and sometimes your there trying to get the sand out of one door for a day..

I grew up at redi strip which made the technique. Most franchises either changed name or closed doors but you are correct but despite the leaching we did a bunch of cars being back logged for over a year at some points.

He said his chemicals were environmentally friendly. That was a heap of bullshit.

Perhaps they bake the cars in a car oven to expedite the drying out process?

@@Dixler683 LMAO I'm a "lefty" and understand the safety of this process. I also understand "your" party ran a lousy candidate and now you're butthurt. Get over it. fascist bootlicker.

No need really as this process phosphate coats the steel preventing further rusting. Once acid dipped they can sit outside for ages without rusting.

@@matthewq4b I must disagree, the coating left from the stripping process is not conducive for paint adhesion, even the ECoat must be scuffed before epoxy primer is applied. This is still my preferred method of removing paint, rust, old body filler, etc.

@@theschmitthaus6208 Who said anything about paint adhesion or where was that discussed ? Comprehension issues apparently. And to E coat properly requires submersion. Once acid dipped there is no need for submersion E coating as the metal is phosphated and will not corrode till that is consumed and that will take many many years in body voids...

@@matthewq4b This has been what I've been trying to get information on. Voids that are now just "inhibited" with no primer or E coat - how long does that actually last? Especially in a humid environment? Little water in there from rain? I see you are saying that it is fine but do you have any actual data on it?

​@@doingcarthings How long a phosphate coating will last will vary from dip to dip and from vehicle to vehicle. Typically void rust protection will last from 3-40 years depending on the environment the low end will be in the rust belt with winter driving. The high end will be a vehicle that never sees rain, wet or winter temps. Proper e-coating requires a phosphoric acid bath beforehand (same as a rust stripper bath) that deposits a phosphate coating prior to an E coating bath. The Alternative is to rust inhibit (oil or wax) phosphate coated voids this will last as long and potentially even longer than the E coating

I wonder how environmentally friendly the paint they take off is once it is suspended in the chemicals..

Likely not needed anymore since the acid get neutralized and then dipped in rust inhibitor. That's 2 extra "rinses" that would get rid of all that excess reactant that causes that white powder in the first place.

Bro "oven baking" out chemicals doesn't even make sense... it's just powered drying.

@Nedd Flanders water-based rust inhibitor is not going to reduce rust anymore than actual paint. If you would read my comment, you'll notice I referred to actual electroplating before primer is applied. Honda has been doing this since the '80s and it works really well.

The company in my area called Redi Strip can phosphate the body after dipping.

@@donziperk I don't know about that process. What is it?

@@AlexandarHullRichter We had this done on a few cars 20+ ago. Acid dip, wash, come back for all metal repairs, acid dip again, wash then dip in a phosphate solution, then paint prep and paint.

@@donziperk what is the phosphate solution? Does it protect better than primer emersion like electroplating does?

Race teams have been known to do this. Let them soak, get all the metal down as thin as possible. Cheeky bastards! LOL.

@@ShainAndrews won't the rigidity be fucked though ?

@@orlmont Most were body on frame, so no. And they would push the roll cage rules to adjust how the chassis behaved. Hard core racers are like that one kid in school that knew the rules very well but had the insight to interpret them instead of accept what the intent of them are.

I wouldn't be surprised if they rejected cars that rusty. I'm going to take a stab and think they only change the chemistry a couple times a year. If they have filtration and replenishment systems, they should only need to drain the tank when it's time to service the pumps.

I've never restored a car, but I would think that most guys who do tend to pick bodies that are in decent shape to begin with for restoration. If it is so rusty that it is in danger of falling apart, hardly anyone is gonna take the time.

It kind of looks like most of the rust stays intact until its hit with the pressure washer so most of the mass should be coming off outside the tank. It also looks like the paint and rust are just washed down the drain so no hazmat bills there.

Rust has no strength whatsoever, that's why we want to cut out rusty metal and replace it with fresh steel. When a car body has become so rusted that it's in danger of braking apart, you weld a temporary steel frame to hold it together while you repair it. In the video a red MGA convertible has this bracing done to it.

A car that rusty probably would't be worth chemical dipping in the first place.

Why coat the bare metal with zinc? It is thin metal and hot dipping is extremely hot, certainly not good for an already fragile body. Besides that welding patch plates would be dangerous since zinc is poisonous. He already mentioned they chemically protect the finished product.

Only problem is hot galv dipping can very easily warm a car chassis/body.

Nearly 100% of the metal I weld at work is zinc coated it's a little concerning but I'm not dead yet.

I'm in same boat, but I'm inspecting all the seams on my car, any that show the slightest sign of rust get cut out redone with special primer and special glue instead of bare metal spot-welding like they used to on this car. It's a really lengthy process, but when it's done it'll be done properly and completely. Then I can do an engine swap and put some power down (I refuse to put power on a rusty car) and my car is already far from original, and not rare, so keeping it as original as I can won't be smth I want or need to do. It's a Triumph TR7.

@Zac's DIY Guns And WD40 is an oily substance (Water Displacement) that won't mix with vinegar.

@@baladar1353 Used it precisely to avoid future rust.

@@Rio_Seco That all depends on the chemical being used.

!!! FEAR FEAR FEAR !!!

@@danielwarpaint1963 Just a little common sense. Doesn't seem you've got much of that, Daniel. At 2:37 he literally goes into that topic, maybe that will help you learn a bit!

That’s what the phosphate conversion coating takes care of , which is the last step , then prebrush phosphate primer into the pinch-welds (wipe off the excess) before you spray

@@jamie6387 that was uncalled for

The netralizer rinse and passivation dip will enter every space as well, so no trapped chemicals.

The remaining acid makes it rot from the inside out. Several people I spoke to who've had their shells dipped, had issues with this. I will not have my shell dipped for this reason.

@@Zgurkogel yepp, getting rid of the remaining acid from the cross members is what I meant....

@@Zgurkogel Would need more information from those "people" - all of these processes are different, and I could see it being a problem with some of the ones I've seen that do a spray on acid neutralizer as opposed to dipping in the neutralizer as shown in this video. I'm not saying the issue is avoided but fully submerging should technically get the neutralizing bath into the same areas as the original acid bath.

Don't worry about it acid dipping is junk seriously weakens the metal and compromises the whole chassis

@@doingcarthings this was done to a mate's car by a UK based company. They claim to neutralise the acid by fully submerging shells. Only 2 years later the shell started bubbling around the spot welds in various places.

Even if they get ever drop of it out unless you dip the car in paint you're gonna be left with bare metal in that pinch weld which will eventually begin to rust, that's a down side of this process.

The process involves dipping it in a acid neutralizer after the acid. That would stop it rusting. I'm sure probably 25 years ago it was acid then a wash with water then paint. This is a far more advanced process

@@brandonlink6568 True, but that's also a flaw with the factory vehicle itself too.

What warranty you expect from 2500 buck job there is a risk for sure.

Thanks for the negative info. Now i am aware of it.