That is quite a compliment. Thank you very much!

I totally agree, man you should be on tv

Thats crazy. Thank you! Maybe some day you'll see me put on live classes...

Wow thank you very much! I appreciate that. Stay tuned!

Thank you very much! I do what I can.

I don't think the way he did that gasket maker on the oil pan is the "professional" way.

@@matthewlobberecht6187 that’s interesting. How would you do it?

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist well I'm not saying you didn't actually do it the way I do it but by what I saw in the video you didn't which was take ur finger and spread it around the pan while not lifting ur finger until it's done. And use light pressure so you can allow the gasket material to be as thick as possible. Generally the service manual says 1/4" bead all the way around so when it mates to the block and squishes, it cuts that thickness in half which is adequate sealing.

@@matthewlobberecht6187 yeah, I used to do that. I took enough of them apart over the years and it doesn’t seem to make a difference on machined surfaces. That method works really well with old cork gaskets though.

Thank you very much! Yes these engines require constant inspection for leaks.

Oil leak engineered so btm chais doesnt rust out keeps lubed up

I have a 15 too and have so many issues. Dealing with this leak now.

​@@capricedembek2249I bought my 2014 1.4l turbo brand new. I've never had coolant or oil leaks til I hit around 100k miles. Thermostat, water outlet and others all leaked recently. And radiator cracked on the black plastic recently. But now I'm dripping oil underneath. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It's burning and smoking from the top too

Yes after you remove the timing chain the head gasket isn’t much more work to remove. Feel free to comment additional questions if needed. Thanks.

Thank you! That was what I was hoping for. Im very glad this video could help you.

replaced oil pan gasket for the third time only to start the car up and lay under and visibly see the drip coming from the timing cover. what is the tool kit i need to for the timing?

@@marbledad does it come from front crankshaft oil seal? is there also squik sound?

Thank you!

I do what I can. Thank you very much!

Thanks for sharing. Check out the comments there have been many questions asked and answered thus far. Feel free to comment additional questions if needed. Thanks.

Hey, how did it go?

Thank you very much!

I have the same car and the same problem

Hopefully, you are able to get it fixed

Thanks!

Feel free to ask questions if needed. Thanks.

Thank you!

It is in excellent condition… I wonder if the engine has ever been replaced before but I did not see anything in the repair history about engine replacement.

​@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistawesome video I have a Buick encore which is the same engine as the car about how much this job cost because I'm afraid I got the same issue

@@solovinosolovino9450 thank you. Cost can vary. Approximately $1000 parts and labor to have this done.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistwow 1000 dollars insane but worth it im assuming wow how long did it take to do this looks like it took hours to do like four hours

It’s about a 7 hour job.

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much! From memory.... Use at your own risk. You will need a basic mechanics tool kit of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive metric sockets and wrenches, etc. Razor blades for scraping and cleaning. Gloves. Shop towels. Floor jack. Jack stands. Safety glasses. Service Manual. Torque wrench. You'll need a torx socket set, and also an External Torx socket set, also known as E Torx. You'll need special service tools: EN-952 Fixing Pin EN-953-A Fixing Tool EN-955-10Fixing Pin from EN-955Kit or equivalent aftermarket kit, many are available online. 1 - valve cover gasket.... must replace 2 - cam actuator solenoid seals 1 - water pump kit with gasket..... most likely leaking, inspect it 2 - water pump bolts... must replace...parts dept will help you 3 - engine mount bolts, mount to bracket....must replace 3 - engine mount bolts, bracket to engine block..... must replace 1 - serpentine belt....depends on condition and miles 1- serpentine belt tensioner....inspect it, failures are common at high miles 1 - front crankshaft balance bolt.... must replace 1 - front crankshaft seal.... must replace 1 - timing cover gasket..... must replace *1gal - Dexcool concentrate coolant or *2 - 50/50 pre-mix Dexcool coolant 5qt - engine oil 1 - oil filter 1 - catalytic converter to turbo clamp..... must replace... will likely break 1 - cat converter gasket, to turbocharger.... must replace 1 - cat converter to front pipe gasket.... must replace 1 - front pipe to muffler gasket..... must replace 3 - cat converter to front pipe nut... common to be rusted 2 - front pipe to muffler nut.....common to be rusted 1 - tube of sealant....AC Delco gray engine sealant. 1 - case of brake parts cleaner.....6 to 12 cans....get the non-chlorinated stuff or the smell will make you sick without ventilation If you're also replacing the timing chain and components you'll need 1 - intake cam actuator gear 1 - exhaust cam actuator gear 2 - cam actuator gear bolt 1 - timing chain upper shoe 1 - timing chain fixed shoe 1 - timing chain tensioner shoe 1 - timing chain tensioner 1 - timing chain 1 - crankshaft sprocket

Thank you for the comment Stephen. If it’s a lip seal with a spring I usually use chassis grease or oil to lubricate. If it’s a PTFE seal it must be installed dry or it will definitely leak.

Will this code go away after a few miles of driving? Like others typically do with censers

Good to hear. What code do you have?

I didn’t get the exact code, but it has to do with the timing, did you get a code?

@@BigDaddy-ih9de no I did not get any codes and the car is still driving on the road currently. You shouldn’t get any timing codes. Possible sensor left disconnected? Need to know what code you have.

Yea I think I might have, it’s the crankshaft positioning sensor I believe, I’ll stop by an auto shop later today to get it read

Yep we have a 55gal drum on tap to refill our portable spray cans. Thank you!

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist What kind of degreaser is it?

@jonathangaliano2617 brake cleaner

Thank you very much!

It depends if the cam timing is off or the trigger wheel is off or both because on this engine neither is keyed to the shaft. The most common mistake on this job is not having the crankshaft tool fully inserted during assembly. Did you loosen the cam gear bolts at all?

That depends which fuse blew and why it blew. If the TCM is not communicating it will need to be diagnosed. Thanks.

Daaaaamn that’s what I get for skimming the service info. Good to know. I removed it by accident and said “that’s a plug for something” during the repair. That being said I do normally prefer to suction the coolant out anyway because it keeps the coolant from making a mess elsewhere. Water and coolant can be a pain to clean up in a normally oily environment. Thank you for the great comment Andrew.

Thanks Winston I appreciate it. We use Zep Brake Cleaner.

There are two timing cover bolts that pass through the water pump that must be replaced… 5564507 and 11099551 Three engine mount bolts that must be replaced… 11570514 Crankshaft balancer bolt must be replaced….0912942 The engine in this video had excellent maintenance history and was in excellent condition internally and the timing components showed minimal wear…..if you find a dirt engine inside or signs of wear I’d suggest replacing the timing chain, guides, and tensioner. Possible the cam actuator gears also depending on miles and condition. I’d have to get back to you on the torque specs…..please feel free to comment back with additional questions. Thanks.

I let it hang from the other two mounts. Thanks.

Per the repair procedure there are a few bolts that must be replaced including the engine mount bolts. 11570514 Engine mount bracket bolt Torque spec 37 lb/ft + 60 to 70 degrees

I don’t have the part numbers or torque specifications handy at the moment. Thanks.

EN-955 Crankshaft Fixing Pin You can find the timing tool kit online… Amazon… As well as several other places online such as freedom racing etc. Thank you.

You shouldn’t have a problem if you put it back together with the tools and make sure everything fits and aligns correctly before you remove the tools. Thanks.

Thank you for commenting Aziz Siteli. The cost will vary a lot, approximately $1000 would be a middle price for parts and labor to have this done.

Thank you!

Thank you for the comment I appreciate it.

I just dealt with this on a friend's car this week. gasket between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler had failed (it was dripping down on the cat). Additionally, the o-ring on the turbocharger oil feed line was bad. Gasket kit for the oil cooler had everything I needed to replace gaskets/seals/o-rings on the oil cooler, turbo, and exhaust system parts I had to remove to access oil cooler. Good luck with the repair! Here is a link I used when diagnosing/fixing mine. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itmKl5x-t9C7nJs.html ALSO: if you pull that turbo, be extremely careful with the oil return line (going into the pan). the plastic gets brittle with age and I broke mine. Clamp holding turbo to cat also was rusted through.

I always order a new oil return pipe and oil feed pipe when I remove one of these turbos. The feed pipe is often clogged with sludge, and the return pipe often breaks.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist in fairness, I was warned that, but hope springs eternal and I thought, "$40! pffft I'll just be careful." That's what I get for not listening to more experienced wrenchers

Been there lol

Thank you for commenting. I used a block of wood and a floor jack on the engine oil pan and then gently lower the weight onto the other two engine mounts when I remove the front mount and it works well.

I supported it with a jack and then lowered it gently on to the other two engine mounts before removing everything.

I used a block of wood on the oil pan when taking the weight off the engine mount and then gently lowered the weight down on to the other two mounts. AC Delco gray engine RTV. Thanks.

Yes, I have seen that also… That commonly happens during an oil change. Sometimes the little valve will stick to the old filter and somebody does not notice. Once again, thank you.

I gently lower the weight on to the other two engine engine mounts. The support fixture when you install it per the service information instructions it gets in the way of the job… And then, if you were to further disassemble and remove the cylinder head, it leaves you with nothing to support the engine block anyway. I’ve done many this way with no ill effects. Thank you.

I used brake parts cleaner to degrease and clean parts. I used Motorcraft silicone gasket remover to help soften the old sealant. It helps, but is optional. Thank you.

For cleaning and degreasing I use Zep brake cleaner and for softening and removing the old sealant I use Motorcraft Silicone Gasket Remover. Thanks.

Yes. If the engine is dirty inside when you take the valve cover off you may want to abort the job. Otherwise if you think the engine is worth fixing go ahead and replace the timing chain and everything including the cam gears. Thanks.

You will need to hold the crankshaft from turning so the bolt can be loosened. If it’s a manual transmission you can put it in gear to hold the shaft from turning. Thanks.

Yes I did add a drop or two of sealant as a secondary measure. Be sure to clean the old sealant out of the threads too. Thanks for commenting.

Awesome will do thank you!

I would probably get them as a kit from Amazon or FreedomRacing or something. I don’t have the tool numbers handy at the moment, but it think I’ve already answered this question in the comments also so take a look real quick. Thanks.

I gently put the jack on the oil pan with a wooden block or a rubber block, and then gently lowered the weight down on the other two engine mounts after removing the front mount bolts. Thanks.

I gently lowered it and let it hang from the other mounts. Thanks.

That tool came with the AC Delco sealant. I believe they are also available at auto parts stores and hardware stores. Thanks.

Thank you very much!

Thank you Mario!

Hi Mario, where you a GM mechanic? If so, do you know what to lubricant the rear main seal with or are they PTFE and go in dry? I put one in dry as there were no instructions in the repair manual, it failed. Thanks

I gently rest the weight down on the other two mounts after removing the front mount bolts. Thanks for commenting.

Thank you very much. You may be able to rent rent the tools from a local auto parts store if they have them… Kind of doubtful. If you have a good relationship with your local dealership, they may also loan you the tools… Again kind of doubtful. The tools are also available online.

15lb/ft on the left side tensioner shoe bolt. 71lb/in on the fixed shoe bolts.

Thank you very much! Enjoy your weekend!!

@@BigDaddy-ih9de you are welcome. You have a good weekend as well.

There are three other mounts holding it up. Just lower it down gently. Thanks.

Yes they did a really good job. It’s a manual transmission car too, so it sees a little bit more severe usage. Still running strong and no leaks. Thank you.

Thank you Adolfo. I appreciate it.

Sometimes that will happen, it always has a distinct burnt dog poo smell too lol. Unless a mass amount of oil runs out the hole or something it’s probably not anything to worry about. Thanks.

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thank you so much! I really appreciate it and I appreciate this video so much. You are saving me 1600 bucks!

@BenDover-wu6lu that’s awesome. That’s where I came from, we were always broke and couldn’t send our stuff to the shop. So I learnt. Feel free to ask further questions if needed.

There is a spanner tool that is used along with the crankshaft locking pin to torque the front crankshaft bolt using a two handed counter holding motion. The balancer gets installed dry with no lubrication on the front seal. Thank you.

71lb/in on the two tensioner bolts. Thank you.

If you are doing it yourself, probably $500 or less. Thanks.

If you take it apart and find wear on the plastic timing chain tensioner shoes then yes definitely replace everything. The plastic also gets brittle with age and heat cycling and can crumble and fall apart, the upper shoe is common for falling apart. Whether you re-use the gears or not depends how badly they are worn, but if you do find wear in one component there is almost certain to be wear in the others also so its best to replace everything if you have the money especially if the engine has high miles. I re-used everything in this engine because it was in excellent condition with very little wear and it was still running great over a year later when the car got totaled, also had no oil leaks. Thanks. Feel free to ask additional questions if needed.

Approximately $700-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced. Thanks.

Thanks!

Hitchhiker thumbs… interesting lol. These engines run at 220F-230F normally. The vehicle has an electric assisted thermostat and the ECM actually has a “desired coolant temperature” value that it will try it maintain. At first I was concerned because most engines are overheating at 230F, but I have worked on and driven so many by now that I consider it normal because I have seen the data… that’s exactly what the computer wants. Thanks.

My tools were provided by the dealership. The factory tools are available online and also many aftermarket reproductions. The tools are fairly simple in construction so I wouldn’t have any problem using an aftermarket tool from Amazon or something like that. Some of your local parts stores may also have the tools available for loan. The local dealership may even be willing to loan the tools. Thanks.

Thank you very much you are extremely helpful. I’m about to do this project this week, am extremely glad to have your video as a helpful tool

@@BigDaddy-ih9de Thank you very much! Im just a random guy on the internet, I do what I can. I’m glad my video could help you. If it can help one person it’s worth it. That’s how I got my start…working on cars at home when myself or others couldn’t afford a shop….then I decided I was good at it and turned it into a career. So part of the reason I started this channel is to share my knowledge and experience if it can help others. And of course feel free to ask further questions if you run into trouble.

There are a lot of different types of antifreeze and a lot of different colors that the manufacturers use. This car should have had orange Dex-Cool antifreeze in it. Yellow antifreeze is typically universal cheap antifreeze, but there are cars that have yellow from the factory…. Ford Gold antifreeze for example. Thanks for commenting.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist that's why i've commented. Dex-cool is red/pink. At least in Europe...👍

@@adaniel69 I’ve noticed that from the factory the Dex-Cool is more pink and when you get it in the bottles to refill the car the Dex-Cool from the bottles is orange. I have no idea why. Thanks.

Medium strength. Thanks.

All of the coolant gets drained out for this job. You can drain the coolant beforehand… I did it my own way by letting the coolant drain out when I unbolt the water pump. Thanks.

Thank you!

I would get one from Amazon or FreedomRacing. Thanks.

I just gently lower the weight down onto the other two mounts which is holding it up. The repair procedure wants you to install an engine hanger fixture… But this doesn’t make any sense because if you were to disassemble the engine any further and remove the cylinder head completely, you are also removing the mounting point for the engine hanger and leaving the block suspended anyway. Thanks.

I used a floor jack and a block of wood to take the weight off of the front engine mount and then lower it down gently. The other mounts on the side of the engine block do a good job of holding everything up and at times if needed you can use the jack and wood for support. I find after doing a few if you’re going further and removing the sub frame you’ll need to hang the engine with an overhead support fixture. Thanks for commenting.

Yes I replaced the seal and it should not be lubricated. You can use a socket or a block of wood to install it carefully. There is also a specific seal installation tool available. Thanks.

I’m looking for the torque specs on the timing tensioner bolts left black is it 15 lb ft and the right red 71 inch lb?? Also could I set the torque wrench to 6ft pounds for the 71 inch pounds of should I go get the inch pound torque wrench? On the timing cover outside bolts 71inch pounds for small bolts 26 ft lbs for larger bolts crank bolt 111+60 degrees do these all seem correct also is there any other torque specs I need I am doing this project over the next few days thank you for your help I’ve been putting it off for a while now

@@adambutts3555 I don’t have the info in front of me right now, but I believe somebody else asked about that and the specs are in the comments somewhere. yes those specs seems about right. You’ll also need to torque the motor mount bolts carefully. Thanks.

Yes there are three other mounts holding it you just have to lower it gently. Thanks.

Thank you very much! EN-952 Fixing Pin EN-953-A Fixing Tool EN-49977-100 Fixation Sensor Discs

71 lb/in for the small bolts and 26 lb/ft for the larger bolts. Thanks.

$700-$1500 depending on your local rates and what parts need to be replaced. Thanks.

Excellent. I’ve done something like that on a lot of different engines without trouble. However if you loosen the camshaft gear bolt you will definitely need the tools. Thank you Rick.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist most definitely, I watched your whole video before attempting it and u did great with explaining everything, great video, keep them coming.

@@rickt8325 thank you very much! Actually I have a couple uploading in a few minutes so be sure to check it out.

Ask anything you want right here in the comments so everyone can follow along. Thanks.

I don't have the specs handy at the moment. Some of the auto parts websites list the torque specs and the procedure. Thanks.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you

@user-ph2uo8mh3m you are welcome.

I think the tire removal is the only thing I didn’t show aside from minor work that I didn’t record because I was both trying to get the repair done and filming by myself. Thank you for commenting.

I used brake parts cleaner to wash down the engine. Thanks.

Lower the weight gently down on to the other two mounts. Thanks.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thanks for quick reply.

Thank you for the comment I appreciate it.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist I did follow and got fix my leaking issue. Thanks again

@@EOO-Stand excellent

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist did your leak return after a year? mine did uurrghhhh

@Historymaker431 no leaks after over a year except the cam solenoid that was already leaking up top, which I noted in the video. It was a really small leak from the solenoid though and I finally decided it was coming from inside the solenoid rather than the seal. The car ended up getting rear ended and totaled, a shame because it was running strong and the engine was beautifully clean inside…. Was starting to get a lower end knock though…. Lots of miles and hard stick shift driving.

I would repair the leak before it ends up being a big stinking and smoking mess that attracts and sticks dirt to the engine. Take care of problems with your vehicle immediately and it will always be in top condition. Thanks.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Ok thank you.

Gently lower the weight down on to the other two mounts before removing the front mount. Thanks for commenting.

Thank you very much! Yes I applied a thin film of RTV to the block surface, it’s not part of the official procedure, but it helps keep any oil from getting on your prepped surface and covers you if your RTV bead wasn’t perfect. There is a fine line when using RTV, because you don’t want to use an excessive amount. AC Delco gray RTV from the dealer seems to work well. I have had great success with Permatex Ultra Black and Permatex The Right Stuff also. Thanks for the comment!

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist That was a fast reply for a video from 5 months ago ;)

@@joshuaolsen8844 yep! All comments come directly to me and I do my best to respond to all of them!

There is no pre formed gaskets for pan and time covers? Thanks

@StevenAwsomeYoda not that I know of. The bolt holes for the transmission wouldn’t line up if you added a gasket though.

You can put the cam lock tool in first and try to gently wiggle the crankshaft around the crankshaft a small amount back and forth while you try to get the tool in. It took me a few attempts and some struggle just like it does every time I do one of these. I cut it short in the video because it was already going to be a long one. You can also try to use a wrench on the camshafts, but usually it’s better to just install the tool on both cams at the same time. Thank you.

Any reason to put a new chain on while I’m already in here? Or is a chain more of if it isn’t broken just leave it.

@@michaelm9581 Replace the chain and related components if you find during the visual inspection you find wear. This engine was high miles and everything looked great so I reused the components and it’s still fine. I wondered if they had been replaced before or if the engine had been replaced because it’s in such good clean condition. Thank you. Check out these videos here: Long term engine cleaning experiment. High miles Toyota engine. A peek inside kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y9uoncVyyMjNgZs.html Another high miles Toyota engine, this time with less miles and more sludge due to oil change habits kzfaq.infotTqpuFJMsOs?feature=share

⁠cool Ty. Yeah it’s a fairly lengthy repair so I have the desire to replace the chain, those guides the tensioner etc. nothing really looks bad tbh, but I also don’t see the inside of these cars engines everyday for comparison.

If you decide to replace the timing components, I would use OEM factory parts. I have seen plenty of sad stories about cheap timing kits causing codes after the repair or failing shortly afterwards due to low quality.

Yes. Thanks for commenting.

You can gently rest the weight down on to the other two engine mounts after removing the front mount bolts. I used a block of wood and a floor jack on the bottom of the oil pan for raising and lowering. Didn’t have to really disconnect very much, just don’t jack the engine up too high and you’ll be fine. Thanks again.

This was my question as well, glad there was a response. I'm about to do this job in my driveway lol

@kennywicks8719 feel free to ask questions if needed.

This video is really well done, 2 years ago I replaced the head after an overheat. So I'm more familiar with the engine than I'd like to be ahah. But thank you, I will keep that in mind!

@@kennywicks8719 thank you very much and thank you for watching.

It certainly needs to be checked out. Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment Ryan. I use a block of wood and a floor jack on the oil pan when I remove the front mount and then gently lower the weight down on to the other two mounts. Works well.

also can you please let me know how you supported the engine with the oil pan off

A basic mechanics tool kit with some external torx sockets and also the timing tool set will be needed. Thanks.

Thank you for the comment Bob. Yes, I put a thin film on the block side to keep residue from getting on the surfaces before I bolted it up.

Do you have the water pump and oil pan torque specs? Also on the crankshaft you have 74 ft/lbs +75°, what does the 75° mean? Thanks

@@eclecticgentleman hello and thank you for commenting. The water pump bolt torque spec is 71 lb/in……there are two of the bolts that must be replaced and tightened an additional 30 degrees. The oil pan bolt torque spec is 89 lb/in The additional 75 degrees on the crankshaft bolt, you tighten the bolt an additional 75 degrees of rotation AFTER you torque to the specification…..the reason for this is we pre load the bolt by tightening to specification and then we turn the bolt a specific amount further for the most accurate bolt loading/stretch as possible.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist you're awesome!!! I'm subscribing

@@eclecticgentleman thank you very much!

$700-$1500 depends what needs to be replaced. Thanks.

The job normally takes me about 6 to 7 hours working at a comfortable pace and I’ve done several of them so I just automatically know what to do. This particular vehicle I got it all done in one day… Took extra time to set up camera angles, and all that. I started the repair in the morning, and drove it home that night. It was a long day, but that was my ride home. Then we drove the car for another almost two years or so… No leaks. Car got rear ended and “totaled” by insurance. Thanks.

They are Kent-Moore factory supplied tools. They can be bought online from many retailers…..try freedom racing or Amazon. Many times you can also get an aftermarket version of the tool for cheaper and it works just as good. Thank you Martin.

Thanks!

@@user-ph2uo8mh3m anytime thank you

Thank you very much! The approximate cost would be $800-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced. I am not currently taking work from online at the moment. Thank you for the comment George.

Never needed to touch the axles.

Awesome! Thank u. I was worried about damaging the one on the passenger side

I currently working on a 2013 sonic 1.4. The timming cover is leaking and it may be cracked. I'm thinking about upgrading all the plastic pieces like the thermostat, and the water housing, to aluminum. What do u think?

@@paulfloyd2053 I don’t have any experience with aftermarket replacements, but I suppose if you find something of high quality it may work. I prefer to use original factory parts whenever possible. The plastic housings have seen failures yes, I’d say they fail every few years due to age and heat cycling.

Thanks for sharing!

Hi, Just bought this car a week ago and it is spillin oil right from valve cover( hopefully, hopefully from there..and also a funny smell comes when the engine heated) what do you suggest? I just thought it was the valve cover gasket and ordered only gasket.

@@us3804 could be an oil leak from the valve cover.

That’s what mine is doing. Even after I fixed the check valve but it’s still leaking. Do you think just the crank seal is ruined or both and the new timing gasket?

@@haccoon5458 can u pls tell me what is omg guide bolts?

There are two bolts that hold on a small heat shield for the CV axle. I took out the upper bolt and then the lower bolt. Thanks.