Thank you for the feedback!

Wow, what a story! Glad you followed Dave's advice and saved yourself from potentially getting really hurt. Thanks for watching and for the feedback!

Great find with the current ammo shortage!

Does David have a KZfaq channel of his own?

Thank you, that's why we do these videos. They help us test the parts we sell and they help you understand how to use them... win, win!

Thank you for the kudos!

Thanks for the Kudos!

Absolutely our pleasure!

Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your project!

Wow, thanks! Good luck!

Thanks for your comment, and thank you for watching!

Any time!

Absolutely! Thank you for watching!

You can definitely do it, just don't get too far ahead of yourself and cut slowly!

Thanks for watching!

Excellent! Good luck with the Father/Son project.

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

Awesome! Good luck with your project!

Thanks brother!

Great tip! LOL Thanks for watching!

Thanks again for watching!

It's not always easy to crank out videos, but knowing it's directly helping people with their projects is exactly why we do it, so thank you very much for your reply!

Thanks for the kudos!

Our pleasure!

Where did you get the factory assembly manual?

www.brotherstrucks.com

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you sir!

We'll add your request to our list!

Vice grip garage does this on a crew cab I believe

@@justinsmith847 I saw it. Thank you for the heads up!!

@@Verticalpedalgarage oh no prob I actually have to do all of this to my 86 C10 lol so that's what got me here I've been watching a bunch of videos

Dwayne Lejeune I completely rebuilt my column and it’s not too bad to do. Some parts are not available so I bought a used column and pieced one together. I live in Tennessee, in Nashville. There’s a place called Truck Haven in Unionville Tennessee that has all the c10 parts you can imagine. It’s a boneyard of only ‘67-‘72 truck parts, with some, only a little, amount of square bodies. I’m like a kid in a candy shop when I go there. The owner is Chuck. Nice guy and he also ships parts too. My column works perfectly now. Just remember how you disassemble it when you tackle the job. And install a new turn signal switch while you’re at it too. The adjustment at the bottom is crucial for proper shifting, if yours is a column shift. And I also recommend, if yours is a column shift, to get an aftermarket shift rod kit to eliminate the original style shift actuator mechanism connection to the transmission. Brother’s sells them and I believe that it’s a Lokar product.

@@MicheluceRizzuto Thank you for your reply and thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching! We'll look into doing a steering column rebuild in the future.

@@MicheluceRizzuto thx, Im switching columns when I bought truck they had a manual, but using as a auto! I want to go full auto. I purchased a used column, but it was in bad shape, I think it came from a Camaro (lost paperwork) My question how do tell whats parts I need o repair

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Website is in the video description on all our videos, but here's a shortcut: www.brotherstrucks.com

We don't have a firewall video, but we're working on a Toe Board video right now. As far as advice, that's the same for all sheetmetal jobs, take your time, cut as little as possible, don't overheat the metal when welding or grinding... and remember you can always fix it again if you mess it up!

No replacement for that area is available, but that could be fabricated. We'll look into doing a video.

Yeah, that's a BROTHERS part. Honestly, a lot of the reason we make these videos is to test fit products to make sure they're good enough to for us to stand behind. That's not a corny sales pitch, it's for real. Thanks for watching!

We don;t have one for a 67-72 truck, but we do have one that we did on a 66 which is similar enough that it might be helpful to you. Here's a link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mrl3Z5NetL6udKs.html

This video was done a while ago and we can't remember what wheels were on this truck. We know for sure they were 20" wheels by Detroit Steel.

Yes, floor first. Basically work your way out from the center.

I use a Miller 270 amp 230v mig and there is also Hobart both sell 110 v machines that won't wreck your bank account BTW Harbor freight has mig welders that can handle small jobs like this.

You can use any brand/quality of wire fed MIG Welder for welding body panels. You don't need anything very powerful because welding thin panels doesn't require it. We use a 120v Miller MIG here at the shop which is good for welding up to about 1/4" thick metal.

you mean the upper roof panel?

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV , sorry, the Inner cowl panel was what I was referring to. Thank you.

@@dwaynemorrison464 We'll look into finding a donor truck that needs that repair. Thanks for the suggestion!

We try to get in there and spray paint them after the repair, or paint the panels ahead of time with weldable paint

We'll look into doing a vid on that. Thanks for the suggestion!

No sir, sorry.

The cab is definitely different where the firewall and fenders are. So, with that being said, the rockers should be very close to the same with maybe some slight differences possible near the front? We're confident that you could use them to replace or repair your rockers as a direct replacement or at least you'd be able to use 90% of it with some minor mods near the front.

DM Dave on Instagram @ARTCustoms

You need to use the kick panel area and whatever is left of the floor pan and rear of the cab. Also, mount the doors that will help alot.

No clue in DFW, ask around at local shows and see if the guys down in the area have some suggestions.

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thanks, good suggestions.

Dave tends to lean towards SEM's Rust Mort.

We use a Miller 120v Mig, but your Harbor Freight welder should do the trick.

Our recommendation would depend on how much or how often you think you'll be using the Welder. If you think it's just for minor work on one project, then Harbor Freight has a few options under $700. If you think you'll be using it with more frequency, the we recommend buying something of higher quality. At the studio we use a 120v Miller wire feed Mig.

Welder setting can vary drastically from welder to welder. Our suggestion is to do some test pieces first before you start blowing holes or getting cold welds in your truck or repair panels.

We've used them in the past, they work good. We don't use them much anymore because it's easy to get rust products locally now.

It work for keeping rust at a minimum, but it's not really meant to be a base coat for paint. We always sand ours and apply a proper primer coat before painting.

@@cdnbroncolife1889 You're fine. The EDP coating will basically last forever and protect you from rust. We get carried away too, so it's understandable to be second guessing.

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV And no matter how good you are or what you do, there’ll be areas where paint will have cooked off from weld heat and will be susceptible to rust. It’s just the nature of the beast.

100% right on!

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thanks!! Just speaking from experience! Lol!!

Agree. The fit is different between trucks and I can see the little variances. So no matter what you do, as long as it works it’s ok.

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thats for sure!!!!

Unscrew - you must have access to the back side to use them and then remove them. Otherwise you'll lose the little rectangular piece that clamps them together. If access is limited fish em out with a magnet IF they aren't aluminum.

We use a 110v Miller Wire Feed MIG Welder.

Really helpful, thanks

@@victornavarro2507 our pleasure

It's called Rust Mort and it's made by SEM. It's available at Amazon, Walmart and other online retailers.

Repairing the rocker or outer floor section will fix that issue.

We use a 120v Wire Feed Mig here at the shop.

It can happen if you live in So Cal?

That's not on our short list at the moment. It's difficult to find a cab around here that needs that repair, so we'd be looking for a donor.

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV i find that hard to believe i see them rusted out all over so ca any wat no big deal just throught something a little different that rockers , cab corners , floor pans ect

Roughly 6-8 hours

Here you go: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pptzrJCqvtHHeZ8.html

For what part?

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV the inside rocker panels I'm working on a 66 Malibu

@@7008aspen We use a 1/4" or a 3/8" bit.

We never cut the ends of the rocker. Once the old rocker is off, the new rocker sits in place without much need to work it. We thin that answers your concern? If not please feel free to comment again. Thank you for watching!

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV ok thank you

Contact Dave directly on his Instagram @A.R.T.Customs

Thanks for watching!

All trucks rust out cab corners. They’re open to the elements for draining and they rust. Doesn’t matter where you live. NM, AZ Nevada etc, may be immune, but at 50 years old they’re mostly non existent or exuberantly priced. So yeah, weld in some cab corners and have a truck vs search for one 40k more than you got. 1

That's why we make videos, so you can follow along and do it yourself. Then you just let Maaco do the paint and prep.