If you are looking prior 00.40 it's males. If you mean the two, starting at 00.40, the larger one is a female. The smaller, a strong specimen of a male that bloomed and stood out by both dominance and strong structure.

Yes, if you miss out a year or two, they are classified differently...sometimes, I wonder if they really have checked and relevance in how...😅

​@@karlsfishtube5305oh yeah, by the way, I find that putting them a fish that is larger and sees every demasoni as competition really helps setting them straight. I usually call them Warden Fish. Basically the warden will continuously break up fights by chasing both conspecifics away from each other. Once settled, the warden will be seen by the demasoni as an overbearing force, so whenever the warden swims by, the demasoni will instead swim along each other to avoid the warden. I have a Tropheus duboisi individual that does exactly that, it sees the demasoni as competition (for an unkown reason, presumed food competition) and breaks up fights to chase them away.

That warden, in my case, has always been a Demasoni male in absolute prime with a clear size and strength advantage above the subdominant males. That together with an open space, lack of territorial markers and hideouts have been a 100% success, so what you done perhaps with another breed seems basically be the exact same philosophy. General, not in this case (demasoni) because of their smaller size and that it works within its own i have wider recommendation. I'd recommend, in any mbuna aquarium where you want a stabile environment to get one of the two Melanochromis, either former Paraellus now Loriae or the Northern blue "Kaskazini". You will have a confident warden that will be alpha, but in the way that harmony just by presence will be very steady. Now kaskazini is a strong, agile hunter when coming to mbuna fry, so a wish to have upcommers in your aquarium, I go for the smaller Loriae. I will link to the Kaskazini as it's role for anyone want a sure way to lessen stress and conflicts, works every time and the speed and bite of these Melanochromis makes any mbuna that picked a initial fight think twice ahead and not repeat any attempts. Sorry for the long book, just that you brought up the essence of this video and the essence of keeping mbunas optimized in a tank, and sometimes these solutions are not the ones that are obvious but empirically learned😉.

To the warden discussion below, here you have an solid exellent solution kzfaq.infoiu6vVN2RlF4?si=bwItF8SHWLSmXlct

@@karlsfishtube5305 Very interesting, seems like I'll have to check it out. Thanks!

If you maintain these optimal, personally, I often had specimens that passed the three year mark. Usually, as they go in groups, eventually, some impact that gives a negative consequence will speed on the process, though. If keept totally stressfree absolute stabile conditions, say alphamale that lacks competition, the four year mark can definitely be archived. I had such but only few.