Does this timeline apply to a Seiju Elm as well?

Hi thanks for reaching out! I also suffer social anxiety, I started my channel as a way to participate in the community in a way I can keep control of situations. So it’s very rewarding to hear a fellow enthusiast has found value in my vids 🙂 Full credit for the tie down technique to Ryan Neil at Bonsai Mirai (and most other things I’ve learned to be honest!). Keep on keeping on and good luck with future repots! Darren

David this video was so good for me. I’ve had a stroke and lost my grip in the right hand, without getting someone else involved, how to tie my Bonsai down one handed, I need to do things myself as I’m trying hard to have a hobby without help you see.

Oh god haha

Good luck 👍

Thanks for watching. Pruning video will be coming soon 😀

Thank you! 😊

Yeah I’ve been holding off for various reasons, but you’re right - I’ll get on it 😀 Thanks Gwyn

Cheers man, keep them coming! Enjoy your vids :)@@grobonsai

Thanks Rob, will do...

One or two stones can help weigh the roots down and prop up the trunk if needed. Thanks for watching, old vid makes me cringe haha. Are you based in the U.K.?

@@grobonsai I wouldn’t worry too much about that your doing what’s helping people and igniting people interest in bonsai and the hobby. I live in Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Ah, perfect 👍 thanks Kenny

In a shallow pot, the water dynamics within the container can cause roots to stay too wet and lacking oxygen. That's the reason for using coarse substrate. The reason I left some original soil in the rootball was because of health concerns - by leaving some roots untouched, I knew that the tree would survive and recover very quickly. Bare rooting a tree that has unknown history is risky.

You raise some good points. My goal here is to help raw beginners who have never done a repot, to incrementally improve the health of their tree with minimal risk of losing it (and losing interest in the hobby). If I was going to develop it, I would air layer above the inverse taper and have a sweet little mame, but that's for another day... :D Thanks for taking the time to comment, I appreciate it.

@@grobonsai wow battle of pruning words. I'd say you won

anthony adolphe lol no battle, just clarifying my reasoning 👍 apologies if it came across like that

Hello, do you have any videos of how you would have done this? I would very much like to see it because I am new to growing Bonsai and would like to learn as quick as possible. Maybe you can refer an additional channel? Thanks

Thanks Dan. I don’t have any vids and I don’t think I have any second repots to do in Spring either. I also don’t have any of that species, sorry not very helpful this time!

@@grobonsai No problem mate. I've watched all the videos I can find on the species but I have to say they are not great. It is my first bonsai so it's Ben through a couple of near death experiences haha. I read that it should drop it's leaves but it is still growing. It even has a couple of peppercorns. weird seeing as I'm in Ireland. Also very unsure about pruning. It's has an odd leaf structure. It's grows quite well so I would recommend trying it. Has a strong lemonny smell too.

So sorry I missed your message. I'm afraid I don't have any ideas for the ant problem. They farm aphids and sometimes scale insects - drives me crazy.

If the water is soaking in and draining well it doesn’t need to be repotted. If watering is very difficult because it spills out of the pot instead of draining through, it may benefit from repotting. But it will be best to wait a few weeks to settle.

I can't remember exactly what I used in this video, but these days I use a slightly larger size particle of the same material used as the main soil. So I use a soil sieve to take larger particles and use that as the 'aeration layer'.

I’m told that is common in some parts. You will need to remove it, whichever way gets the job done. Obviously avoid damage where possible, but it’s better to remove it as it will cause more issues than any damage done during removal. If it is stuck to the pot, a spare table knife might help, running it between the pot and root ball, or as a lever. If not stuck to the pot, by all means take the tree out of the pot, maybe some pliers can help break up the gravel? It’s not something I’ve had to deal with, so a bit of improvisation might be required

Humidity is the best bet, but not overwatered

Hi, Olives are quite strong, and I know of pros who repot in summer. Sadly that is all I can say because I don’t have any olives. I’d advise asking/searching for more info from someone who knows the species - sorry.

OfftoShambala I have experimented a little with standard potting mix but not enough to come to any conclusions. I do know that my least favourite bonsai task is repotting nursery trees - it’s such a mucky experience. My preference for prebonsai is a substrate that doesn’t break down, such as moler clay etc. I’m afraid there is no perfect solution, only trade-offs; aggregate substrates need more frequent watering etc and cost more

Mine are outside as long as they are acclimatised, but my garden very rarely gets as cold as -6C. A tree that isn’t prepared for winter e.g. if it’s new and I’m not sure where it was kept, or if it had some work in autumn, I keep in an unheated greenhouse. I don’t have any indoors so can’t comment, but if what you are doing is working keep doing that. Chinese elm can live in semi tropical environments, so will keep the foliage and continue to grow - which is what is happening with yours I think

Nice! Wires stay indefinitely to keep the tree secure and safe. Unless a wire is digging into a visible root, I’ve cut the wire like that before

With aggregate / inorganic soil and in Florida, I expect it would be difficult to water *too* much. Water until it drains from the bottom of the pot, pause, then repeat to ensure a thorough soaking. In the UK I could be using that watering procedure several times a day on the hottest days.

That's a great couple of questions! We repot either to aid the health of the tree, or to use a pot that looks better. A good sign that the tree needs to be repotted for health reasons is that water doesn't pass through the soil, instead it pools on the surface and spills over the edges and water water does go through the pot isn't penetrating the soil. So the tree is hard to water. Another health-related reason is to use a soil that is more suitable for the tree - more/less water retentive. We can change the pot for aesthetic reasons when the tree is healthy enough to take any root pruning that may be necessary to fit the pot. In terms of timing, the best time to repot is (with a couple of exceptions depending on the species) between the buds swelling and first leaves opening. That is the time that the tree can take the most, with the least aftercare. Repotting at other times is possible, but can be risky as the tree will need careful management afterwards. So repotting outside of the ideal window should be for experienced practitioners or emergencies. Size of pot again is a balance between health and aesthetics, bigger pots are easier to keep the tree healthy and growing well, whereas smaller pots can look better (to a point) but can require more frequent watering and slow the growth of the tree down. That said, increasing the pot size too far can result in over potting, reducing the pot too far can require removing more roots than the tree would like. Hope that helps!

It is a European aggregate that has several uses including cat litter, called moler clay. What is available in your area will be fine. Here is more details about soil kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m66fYMuJ09TZaHk.html

It’s moler clay, hard to find outside the U.K. or some countries in Europe. It’s nothing special, but is cheap and convenient. I think you shouldn’t repot your tree, let it grow until mid-summer and give it a trim. Think about repotting next spring when it has regained some strength. You’ll need to water carefully, but it will be best in the end.

@@grobonsai Is this moler clay similar to Akadama? Or does it possess some benefits?

aragn271 it’s cheaper, doesn’t break down (whether that’s good or bad depends on your POV). I prefer akadama in bonsai pots, moler for bigger training pots, these days

@@grobonsai thank you! :D

Thanks for the comment! Nowhere near as long as those guys. A couple of years since I stopped torturing plants and started making progress.

@@grobonsai Same here about a couple years now I'm making progress thanks to those Bonsai Enthuists ! Good luck with your videos I've subscribed I'll be watching your videos 👍👌

Thanks 🙏

Bit of a dilemma, how is the foliage doing?

Aoround 5-15 leaves have yellowing around half way down the leaves with spots and patches of brown in them.

Yes you can! Losing leaves is can have several causes, including normal shedding of old foliage. Also watering issues, environment issues or pest issues

Trees get energy (food) from sun, air and water. The roots access supplemental nutrition in the form of fertiliser that we must provide

@@grobonsai Hell im a pest. So is the pebbly stuff the fertiliser?

Ah, no, it is the ‘soil’ - substrate is a better word. Being coarse allows a better balance of water and oxygen to the roots, which is critical in a shallow container (due to the way water behaves in a pot). The reason I’m keeping some original soil is to ensure a portion of the roots are untouched. The black stuff will be replace at the next repot (which I still haven’t gotten around to doing!)

That sounds like a good idea, as long as you try not to damage or cut any roots. I’d leave a portion of the rootball untouched as in this video. Sick trees can’t afford damage, they need a balance of water and oxygen in the soil, and sunlight to become strong again

Some people add pumice or perlite to potting soil, but as long as you water carefully - don’t keep it soaking, but never let it dry out - it will be ok for now.

@@grobonsai thanks brother, u got yourself a new subscriber. hahahaha thnx man

Thanks for watching 👍

If you have them in normal nursery containers it’s really not a problem. If they are in shallow bonsai containers drainage of soil can be more of a problem. But it will be ok to leave them. Keep them in the soil you have them in until Spring 2021 or health issues show up. It might mean watering carefully in summer but it should be ok. Trees can grow in any almost substrate as long as we are careful. It’s just some are easier than others to maintain health 👍

Oh, Alright. Thank you so much Sir.

Also, the stem on one of the plants has gone purple, what does this mean??

J either email some pictures to grobonsai (at) gmail (dot) com or instagram DM grobonsai

Compost stays wet and once dry becomes hard to fully re-wet. It will be ok if your careful with watering. But there’s much better alternatives. With the aeration layer, a larger particle size of what you are using as the main soil is best, but a single particle layer of anything will ‘do’. It’s your choice but my personal opinion is that we owe it to the tree to do the best we can for it. If you are in the U.K. I can help source some soil for you?

@@grobonsai Thanks for the reply. That would be great if you could advise on the best soil (I’m UK based). It’s my first bonsai and my first repot so I’m researching on what is best for the tree. Naturally, I don’t want to mess it up on my first attempt

Ok, I can send you a repotting parcel for very little money, quality soil, drainage screen, wire, bamboo chopstick. Email or Instagram DM if you like, details in description (I think!)

It’s always best to take a gentle approach but without seeing I can’t say - it might be your technique was perfect 🙂 Perhaps it was bone-dry soil? But elms are quite tough, a good water when it’s needed and I’m sure the tree will be fine. Either way, doing *something* is better than nothing and it dying in the shop without a chance!

@@grobonsai thank you yes the soil was hard and dry I did my best to not rip the roots. Thanks for the reply.😁

It’s not necessary, but it does have functional purpose as well as aesthetic, I made a Short explaining it all though

After three weeks new roots will be forming, I would say no to the re-repot. They probably won’t die, I expect they’d stall for the majority of the growing season. That would negate the benefit of the good soil. Then in 2022 they’d be starting with less energy than if you do the repot next spring.

So repot them into the better mixture of Akadama and Lava rock about April 2022?

Yep, when spring buds are starting to swell 👍

Thank you so much 😃

So hard to describe in words! There’s a piece of thick wire acting as a stop to two pieces of wire that are tie-downs

Yabut..one end to bonsai and where do u tie the other end to..the pot?

I mean to the bamboo

Maybe this can make it clear kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZ5olaejpsmck6M.html

Akadama is good for Zelkova, you made a good choice. The best time to repot is in the Spring as the leaf buds start to swell. Good luck and enjoy your tree! 🙂

Dear people, What is sold as Zelkova serrata is almost always a wrong name. You bought a Ulmus parvifolia, a autumn flowering Chinese elm. In nature they grow in a large area throughout China down to Vietnam and is also cultivated in Japan. I have a few and replaced the dense dirt soil totally for a gritty free draining soil with 30% good compost.

Hi that’s great! I explain the choice I made here Bonsai Soil Basics: How to Choose Bonsai Soil (2019) buuuuut I do use more japanesey soils these days. What I said still holds though

@@grobonsai I appreciate you taking the time to respond! I'll watch that video posthaste. Do you recommend repotting a nursery-bought Chinese Elm almost immediately?

Not necessarily. Is the soil a solid lump or still fairly airy looking? When watering does it drain nicely or pool up and spill over, take ages to soak in, then become dry a few hours later? If it’s airy and drains well, no need to repot. Otherwise, it’s a good idea to repot 😊

I’m so sorry to hear that. Junipers are very sensitive to root work compared to elms. Depending where you are, maybe it was a little late for repotting, spring is the best time in most cases. I don’t grow junipers but the general guidance with them is to remove no more than 30% of fine feeder roots when very healthy, never bare root, don’t prune any foliage, and carefully monitor the soil and water only when needed. Better luck next time!

@@grobonsai ty for your time and suggestions ;)

Such a good idea, thanks 🙏

If you have recently repotted, it is a good idea to allow the tree to recover, until it starts to grow strongly again

Thank you . So I just leave it alone till spring?? Obviously watering it lol

Exactly lol yeah, that’s what I would do

It’s a fired clay aggregate substrate. It’s quite complex to explain in a comment, but in a shallow bonsai pot we find airy substrate better for the roots. The roots don’t need to penetrate the particle to be effective, they absorb water as it exists between the particles, and from the particles as the water ‘evaporates’ from inside each piece of aggregate. In other words, it is more akin to hydroponic substrate than soil. Roots act more like a sponge than a straw in taking up water.

Stand the pot submerged in a bowl of water for a minute or two, to rehydrate very dry soil. It’s hard to say without seeing the tree but it could be black spot - a fungus - or spider mites. Maybe look those up to see if the symptoms fit.

Generally speaking, Spring is the safest period as buds start to swell, but conifers are definitely more nuanced than broadleaf. I’m not best placed to provide advice really, but some pointers that I’ve picked up from Mirai: avoid heavy styling or pruning before or after - wait for strength to return. Don’t bare root. Avoid heavy reductions of root mass. Beware overwatering - easily done until the root system has recovered and the tree is using water again hope that helps

Good question - I put the tree back into the same environment they were in before the repot, as the repot operation performed in this video is relatively forgiving, and the UK weather in Spring is generally neither too hot nor freezing. But some protection can be given in different climates.

Yes, definitely a good idea, it will give him a boost. You can do that without disturbing the roots very much - pop him out, place into the larger container, place some soil around the existing rootball, and water gently - job done ✅ have fun 😀

Gro Bonsai Awesome! One more thing; I have the mesh, wire, bonsai focus repotting mix & some crushed lava stones. Will it help to have a layer of the lava rocks in the bottom of the new pot to help with drainage & then use the bonsai focus mix to fill in around the edges or should I just mix the two together?

Yeah a single layer will help with aeration 👍 mix it in also

Gro Bonsai Fantastic! Thank you so much for your help & advice! Once everything arrives I’ll let you know how it all goes 😊

Definitely, one of the best species for beginners 👍

Gro Bonsai thanks :) just bought one online from Herons Bonsai, hopefully it comes okay

It’s a European product called moler clay. I talk about soils more in this video Bonsai Soil Basics: How to Choose Bonsai Soil (2019) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m66fYMuJ09TZaHk.html hope that helps

Cat litter isn’t universally suitable for horticulture, it’s just a select few brands happen to be made from suitable materials. If you’re in any doubt, best to use a reputable brand of bonsai substrate.

Hello, the top dressing is an optional step, though I always use it. It is a 50/50 mix of shredded sphagnum moss, and moss I have collected from the neighbourhood. The collected moss is dried, shredded and sifted to remove stones, and dirt/debris. A moss top dressing has a number of benefits, but your tree will be perfectly fine without it. Thanks for watching

@@grobonsai Thanks, will Akadama soil work for the repotting?

Yes, but work it in a bit more carefully to preserve its structure 👍

@@grobonsai Thanks so much. I have recently bought a 7 year Chinese Elm and it's growing well however soil is awful and the water takes ages making its way through. Just think doing what you have done in the video and then putting it back in the same ceramic pot should fix this. I know it's not the best season to be doing this but something definitely isn't right with the soil. After doing this should I just go back to feeding as I have been or do I need to do anything different?

No worries. Resume fertiliser once it starts growing again

Are you in the UK?

Yamadori........ Harvest it from a field for... $FREE.99!! 😉😂😎

Most (not all) Chinese elm bonsai are a small-leaf variety. This appears to not be the case. It was indoors at the shop, which will lead to larger leaves. But mostly it’s genetics that determine the max and min leaf size in the absence of training

@@grobonsaihow’s the bonsai journey going?

It is fired clay from Europe called moler/molar clay

We are using a particular material that happens to be sold as cat litter in this case. The picture on the bag doesn’t change its usefulness. You can also use akadama as cat litter 😁 in fact I use akadama for my bonsai, and cat litter as training soil to save money filling big pots

Hi, I have just added a link to the 'soil' I use. It's sold as cat litter but don't mind that. But, if you are in the northern hemisphere, now is not a good time to repot a bonsai (unless it's a tropical species). Is there anything else I can help with?

@@grobonsai thanks for the speedy reply it’s much appreciated, so I’m in the uk and my plant is a Chinese elm, it’s 2 years I bought it and figured it could be time to give it a bigger space to grow, when would you recommend I do it?

In the Spring is best, the tree has the most energy and the weather perfect for recovery

1. I have not claimed to be a ‘bonsai master’ 2. It is not necessary to wash the roots 3. I discuss the reasoning in the video

How rude bonsai life !

I hope I have improved since making this video, however doing three things at the same time is taxing for my single-thread brain