Chris (Thanks for the video. It helped me alot): On my 82 Corvette, The B-1, B-2, and B-3, B=Battery) are designed to be hot from the battery, although the B-1 has no connection as Chris has noted. The I-1 terminal (that's "eye-1" for Ignition) is hot in BOTH the start and run position. It goes to lots of stuff (gages, ECM, etc). The I-3 terminal is hot ONLY in the run position and goes to my Power Windows and fan fan. The Accessory terminal is hot in BOTH the Accy and the Run position because that is the power to your radio, wipers, etc. The G-1 (G=Ground) and G-2 terminals are shorted internally. The G-1 has no external connection. The G-2 grounds the Brake warning light (lights it up) in the start position only. Of course, since this switch is used on lots of GM models for about 15 or so years, it is possible that the terminals are used otherwise, although I can't see how they could be different.

Thank you for this. I don't have access to a vehicle to check wires on, just wiring diagrams for them. But I can confirm these switches were used on the full-size Chevy trucks up to 1994, and the two "unused" pins are connected to ground out the engine temp gauge in the dash when starting in 88-94 full-size Chevys. Wiring diagrams refer to this switch as "Bulb Test" or "Bulb Check", and if you're real slow with turning the key, you can activate this mode without cranking. Also, regarding the two opposite mountings, on the trucks at least, one is used on tilt-wheel equipped columns, the other on non-tilt columns. Little interesting tidbit for you! Great video.

Putting in new harness on my 37 chevy with keyed column ,this was really a big help understanding how this works Thanks

OMG! In the first two minutes you were more helpful than every service manual I've looked at! OMG! "Two Detents from the top" means literally nothing to me given the damn thing isn't labeled lol

Wow, you're a good teacher, very thorough, thanks for making this! I have an '84 C20 and I'm having issues with the truck turning off, sometimes after twisting the switch, the truck continues running, it seems to be somewhere in between, then if I turn it back, it'll shut off. I'm guessing this switch is the culprit.

Outstanding sir!! You have help me a lot, I now figured out what was wrong!! I am returning a Pro street S10 back to the road for more fun.

This helped me figure out how to make my damn radiator fan to turn off after shutting the vehicle down!!! Thanks for the straightforward explanation.

Awesome video very informative and to the point. I was able to figure out that the parts store sold me a bad starter switch for my 86 Jimmy this way

Your the man! Explanation on point information taken and distributed. Thanks for the knowledge!!

Thanks Chris .. you da man! This was super helpful.. although I'm afraid I may still need to rebuilt the ignition linkage in the steering column, think I might have a broken rack gear. Plan to purchase a new switch just in case, since it's only $30, but my old one is testing fine so far on the bench thanks to this helpful video!!! (1970 Chevelle SS 396).

Never mind. They are. Love the videos!! There really helping rebuild 70 Monte Carlo.

Big help!👍first video I found that showed what post is what, without having existing factory colors of wires! Thanks

Very good info. This will get written up and put in my service manual.

This video was a tremendous help, thank you. You made the complex easy.

I was installing a push button ignition and was trying to figure out which wire to splice into, and this helped a lot. Thanks man

great in depth video not sure its the solution to my problem but i wanna figure it out vs running a dash switch in the car although it may be easier and this def has given me in depth look at how the switch it self works and that is exactly what i found in your vid.

Thanks great video just what I needed for a 79 chevy truck

That was solid! Thanks for going through it all.

Thanks for the video man helped me out a lot with a 6.0l swap in a k30

Thank you very much for this video. Very helpful. Thank you!

great video...helped me out a lot bro

Thank you so very, very, much. You are a prince. Really. Thanks!

I read that the g1 and g2 get ground to the warning lights in the start position so you can check that the warning lights work and will inform you if there is a problem with the charging, cooling or oil systems.

Thank you so much Chris. You know I am making the switch sample 2nd time now, 1st sample was failed at start, can't go back to on, that cause starter always on. You help me a lot

Great video, I did learn a lot.

Awesome video brother, thank you!

Thank you for sharing. Big help!!!

Thanks for the video.

Great info...Thanks

HUGE HELP!!!! Thank you

The ground connection is for bulb test when starting the car. Great video BTW. I used it to trouble shoot my 69 El Camino. I got to go out and add 2 wires so my BRAKE warning lamp will light when I start the car. One from ground to the switch. One from the bulb to the switch.

Thank you this is insanely helpful

Awesome video

learned a lot thanks

..I really do understand this switch better!!

Great info thanks

Thank you for this video. I'm about to replace one on my brothers g20 as the ACC is not working. Is it easy to find a model number without removing the bloody thing? (The car still works so we would like to keep it that way until we have a new switch)

Oh brother! This help me so much!

Great video chris. You should be a auto tech teacher

Good job men.

I am glad i saw this. I did a terrible thing to my chevelle and i think this will answer a lot of questions. I put a remote starter switch on the starter so i can do a compression test with out cranking from the steering wheel. What didn't remove the wire that goes to the S terminal and when i turned the engine i believe believe i ran current back into the ignition switch. Sparks were comming from the fire wall where the fuze box was. No fuses are blown. But no crank on the starter, no accessories, and oddly no instrument cluster lights. So i am thinking the switch go damaged. On the fuse pannel there are 3 tabs you can plug into. Battery/Accessories/& ignition. All 3 of these tabs do not have energy. I am wondering if all 3 are routed from the switch.... still doesn't explain the dash panel lights being involved with this.

You’re a god for this. So in theory if I were to send 12 volts to B3 then connect B3 to B2. THEN run my “S” wire from starter straight to “S” on the switch (top right terminal on your diagram) the starter should, in theory kick on when I use the key? Similarly if I run the HEU distributor “bat” wire to “I1” (bottom left of your diagram) that would supply 12 volts to the distributor and turn the engine off when needed with the switch. Let me know if I’m right or wrong in thinking this, regardless this video has broadened my understanding a TON

Hola. Quiero instalar un botón de encendido a un MALIBU 81, me puedes decir cuales son los cables que debo unir para que arranque ? Gracias

Chris, your video saved my azz! THX again!

Great video very much thankful. Question, I just bought a 1977 Chevy C 10 I will need to move the switch from the column to the dash because my new steering column does not have a key switch can you tell me how to do this or is there any links I can look at thank you very much

Great video Chris. I am curious if the ignition terminals 1-1 and 1-3 have voltage when the start (s-terminal) is activated. I ask because when changing over from points to HEI distributor, it would be easy to run one 12g wire from the ignition terminal on fuse box to the batt terminal on distributor if it is providing 12volts in both start and run positions, instead of two wires: one for start and another for run . you may be able to explain better than me. thanks for your great videos

I have a question, is it possible to run a push start toggle switch through that column or do I need a power switch as well? Great video by the way,

Does G1 and G2 get wired to the starter relay?

I did notice that my ignition switches are positioned differently on each column would that be the problem?

Figuring out if my switch is good or not. Question, if the switch is on for ignition, should the acc. terminal show voltage? I've got a crank/ no start in a 92 s10 4.3. Driving it dies like switch shut it off. May start back up, maybe not. Blower and/or headlight switch can kill it. Headlights won't come on running or not. No tail lights,side marker or brake lights. Turn signals work,radio doesn't. Changed relay on far right under hood next to brake booster. Was turning blower on and off key in run position . Blower would do fan speed of 1,2,3. Turn it to 4 ,it would quit and the relay above would buzz. Nerve racking to say the least. Oh yeah this video really helps. Explanation of switch,top notch. Showing difference between switches good to know. Well, I'm off to the S10. Any advice from anyone... Thanks in advance...

dude thanks

Will I have to tap into one of the b2 or b3 wires to get power to ignition switch from battery. Got an 81 cutlass and need power to my fuse box and lights

Why does both B-3 & B-2 have to have B+ power? Is it necessary?

This Was a MAJOR Help!! Thanks a Million!!

I learned g1 and g2 go to your temp sending idiot light, so when you turn your ignition on it lights up the idiot light for the temp sending unit I think it temporarily sends a ground to the light on the dash so you know the light bulb is still working, What I did was disconnect the green wires going to g2 and spliced them together and i installed a temperature gauge in place of the idiot light.

Ah this video explains exactly what I needed to see. So what is the Ignition Switch Rack Reload Spring for within the column?

Which one would i tap into when connecting the 12v ignition wire (pink) for a holley sniper efi. Im guessing pink to pink ???

84 Jimmy won’t start, radio and dash light up but won’t start then drains battery for a bit...I’ve changed the battery bench tested the starter (it work)... God I’m hoping my switch is broken otherwise I have no idea what else to check. This video helped explain how to test it..

Happy Father's Day buddy

Are you sure that B1 is additional power or The starter circuit ? Maybe. Because in run position and start position there would haft to be power to the coil. Right or am I wrong ?

Hi ... i have a question is possible that the ignition switch get stuck on ignition possition...cuse my starter keeps on even with the key off and out...notice just the gear spinning but it doesn't push the gear to crank i had to disconnect the negative cable from the battery.... starter selenoid went bad? Or neutral possition safety switch is bad? Need help please

Are these inner changeable?

That's a good video man. So easy a caveman could do it.

does this apply also to gobdys? namely an 83 elco?

..can you advise on what terminal I would connect the the dummy light coming from the #1 terminal of my alternator? Would it be on the "s" terminal?

How can you know if you have a bad switch ? Is it bad if the voltage reads at 10 volts if I'm testing it the same way ?

at 10:15 you rotate the switch upside down with the original wires on it. I know you said the pink wire 1-1 was for dash lights but////// could it be for the Distributor Cap power at Crank and On "Pink" wire.... Please I must know this.

Hello I need help with the green one

Will a bad Ignition switch keep a starter solenoid from disengaging? Or is it just out of adjustment?

Would it be a good idea to run the HEI from the ignition accessory?

Hey Chris, I have a 72 caprice that I want to put a chrome steering column in that I ordered from kegs. When I plug it up it spins the motor over but won’t start. I plug the factory column back up and it cranks. Do you know what might be causing this issue?

I changed this in my truck cuz it wouldn't start and now it starts but when I pull it out of the S position the starter is still cranking. Any ideas why?

Hey chris quick question does b3 and b2 HAVE TO HAVE 12 v batter going to each terminal, i have batt running to b2 and i get voltage on b3 b2 and b1. I have my starter hooked up but wont crank ,i put direct voltage to the s and starts fine wondering if ignition switch is faulty, it is brand new but my experience with aftermarket parts they fail as well out of the box

Great video, my question is can't I just test for continuity for each of the circuits?

What does the little green wire control?

My 69 GTO will start fine, but the engine will not shut off when I move the key back to the off position. I can even take the key out and the engine still runs. I cover the carb to starve the engine of air. Once the engine is off, my Gen and Oil lights stay lit. I disconnect the battery to turn the Gen and Oil lights off and keep the battery from draining. If I reconnect the battery, the lights come on, the engine starts, but then the process repeats. Any ideas on what may be happening? Maybe ignition switch? How do I test the ignition switch to see if it is ok. Thanks.

One question. Is accessory pin hot when switch is in ignition/run position?

Hello Chris, May I have your contact information? could you please help on some parts I am making? I do reverse engineering and custom manufacturing GM aftermarket parts according to customers' sample, for some parts I know nothing about how they been assembled or mounted to the car. Looking forward to hearing from you

I believe Ignition Switch is my problem,87 el camino cranks no start,I checked voltage on pink wire when cranking and reads 8 volts

Just have no idea why it don't have 12v from key on acc

could this ignition switch going out stop my car from turning over please help ??

I've also found that this is the difference between a tilt column and a non tilt column.

Where is it located on steering colum

G is for alarm systems

Tiene que ver con que no genera carga a mi bateria

How to put ignition switch back in a 1972 impala

Lol Arcade Fire at minute 4:00

I changed mine and now I'm stuck in park

Podrían traducirlo a español

Them are I

Dump the background music......very annoying

Thanks for this, Very helpful!