2yrs old and it's more informative than the rest here on KZfaq. Thank you sir .

Timing is everything... I bought a set of Bigtreetech parts for my new CoreXY printer which include the SKR 1.3, 2209's and the TFT35 V3.0 controller a while back but have not had the time/energy to figure out how they fit together. Brother Chris to the rescue as he covered it all in his usual thorough manner. Well done and thank you, Chris.

Today, I have upgraded the mainboard to the BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers from the stock Anet A8 board. I am absolutely blown away by how much quieter my printer is. Before, I could hear the printer all the way upstairs, now i can barely hear it sitting 2 feet from it. And it runs so smooth now....I like it! Glad I seen your video on the 2209's. Thanks Chris!!

2209's are in the mail on their way to me now. I picked them over the 2208 because of the current limit (2A vs 1.4A) so I can stick those beefy StepperOnline guys on my printer and chug the bed around at ludicrous speed. Great vid, your channel is really thorough and you have a great way of explaining these things. Keep it up!

mate, this is exactly all the information I was searching for, when I had to order a new board two weeks ago. For now I am still happy with the 2208‘s, but you made me curious about the 2209s next time. Can‘t believe this video just hit 1.000 views, almost every maker must watch this! Thank you!

Good job wrangling/reading the matrix of features, I saw the smile at "if you're not confused now" and immediately wondered how many takes that had taken ;)

Amazing how far stepper drivers have come in the last 5 years. Thank you for another great "How Too" video.

Hey Chris. I installed my BTT TMC 2209's yesterday. Finally got a chance to test them today when the grandchildren went home. Holy hell my steppers are quiet! Now I know what I was missing when running my A4988's. Just got to re-build my X axis to replace a badly flat spotted mini V wheel and my AM8 will be back in business (albeit much quieter). I have a BTT Mini UPS on the way now too, to hopefully sort out power outages, so Marlin will resume better. Greetings from Wales 😀

Thanks a bunch! This walkthrough makes it so much easier to get the pins correct.

Thanks Chris. I watched other videos on this but only yours got me up and running. Thanks as well to Tobias below. I will also look forward to the 1.4 Turbo and 2209 video as that is the current setup i'm working on.

Thanks to your excellent videos, I have now just ordered some Bigtreetech 2209's for my SKR 1.3 to finally upgrade from my A4988's. 😀

Just like to say thanks for doing these videos, I was able to swap out a melzi in a Wanhao i3 v2.1 in under an hour with the help of your videos.

This video just lead me over the edge and made me buy 5 TMC2209 V1.2 from BigTreeTech. Wish me luck :)

Chris Thank you for the very informative videos. With your help I was able to get my TMC2209 and SKR 1.4T up and running. As a note, STEALTHCHOP for E & Z I did comment out. STEALTHCHOP for my BMG style extruder seemed to be creating noise with the stepper during retracts. Geoff

Thank you for the great review, looking forward to the sensorless bed leveling video 😁

Myyyy herooo, looking for a tutorial for 2 weeks and it is almost imposible to find information. I even thought asking you to make a tutorial ajjajajaja thanksssssss

Thanks Chris. Great and informative as usual. My 2209s are in the mail so this is my goto install video. I would love to see the use of stall guard 2 on z as a probe. Sounds kool.

If you want to probe the bed with your nozzle, increase probing speed to 60 mm/s and reduce sensitivy bump

Awesome as always

Wow I am working on this Board so this Tut came just in time Thanks Chris !!!

This is a different kind of article than I was looking for. That's OK, it was easy enough: replace my A8988s with TCM2209s, putting the pot's toward the RAMPS power terminals, reverse the stepper connectors, and set Vref to about .8 volts. The new drivers quieted my Makerfarm Pegasus effectively, so I'm satisfied. Have fun, those of your making the more elaborate upgrade!

Great video again, I use a sponge to reduce the sensorless homing crashing impact, and start from the too sensitive setting and work downwards

Chris... you are an absolute miracle worker

your videos are great man! surprised you don't have more subscribers! quality content!

Killer timing! I just ordered some to replace my Wanhao i3 motherboard!

Excellent information concisely delivered. Just what I like.

Awesome Video! Yup, I gotta get me some 2209s... This will surely help my skr setup...

Thank you! This helped me a lot debugging sensorless homing.

Thank for a great video . I also would like to see a video with the Skr v1.4 turbo.

Thank you for this video! Very informative... and convenient since I recently got an skr 1.3 and tmc2209s lol

Great video Chris. Looking forward to a senseless Z probing video with these....

One big reason to move from 2208's to 2209's is Linear Advance. From what I've read, the 2208's are not compatible with Linear Advance within Marlin.

I see this was already mentioned in the comments and wondered if you figured it out yet? The instructions for the SKR 1.3/1.4 say for 2209's you need to cut the diag pin if using mechanical endstop on that driver. I assume you didn't cut the pin for Z. Is the bed level probe seen as a mechanical endstop?

Chris, is it possible to do a install/config video about the SKR 1.4 (turbo) with TMC2209 steppers? I would be very thankful!

thanks been looking to upgrade my board in all my printers now I feel like i can do it.

Nice video one more time Chris... i like how you explain everything...

Perfect explanation... Thanks for the video!

Thanks Chris for this video. Very helpfull as usual ! Love your channel ! Did you already test or review the SKR 1.4 ?

I'm currently setting these exact TMC2209 from Bigreetech drivers up on an SKR 1.4. Almost done.

Thanks Chris!!😀😀

Does anyone know the difference between the BTT TMC2209 v1.1 and v1.2?

It would be great to see you show the setup of skr 1.4 turbo, 2209 on the SK-GO

Hi. Thx for the Vid. I have mine skr 1.3 with tmc2209 and an tft35 here. I use an Sidewinder X1. Do you have an config for me? What must i change? thx

I'd just like to second your comment about playing with sensor-less homing on z to use it as an abl sensor. That would be pretty cool if it worked reliably.

Great video, perfect timing.

Tmc2208 vs tmc2209 for ender 3 which cooler stepper motor?

Thank you 🙏 brother Chris! Another great instruction video. Do you know if the the MKS SGEN L board will setup the same.

Cool Prusa clone. Do you have a video/guide building it?

Great video Chris. I just ordered a SKR 1.4 + 2209's to use with Klipper / Moonraker / Fluidd. Plan on doing the setup using KIAUH which appears to be the "new" way to do things. Would love to see you do a quick tutorial on that approach.

Something cool to try is Power Loss. My XY have sensorless homing, my Z use an endstop. When power loss happens it returns to the right Z position but not for XY, it shifts. Guess sensorless homing and power loss dont go along

Hi Chtis thank you for the instructions everything works goooooooood!

Wait..stepper drivers are controlled via UART now? I think not many microcontrollers have more than two hardware uarts, so they make it work with bit banging which kind of defeats the advantage of speed a bit, doesn't it?

How do you setup a second Extruder?

Hey Chris, do you know what the difference is between SPI Mode VS. SD Mode on TMC5160T PRO? I can’t find any information or videos that explains what the SD Mode does.

That's weird, compiling the lastest stable Marlin 2.0 release, when trying to set the endstops to 'false', I get a sanity check saying they have to be set to 'true' for sensorless homing... In file included from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/MarlinConfig.h:38, from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/serial.h:24, from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\DebugMonitor.cpp:26: Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/SanityCheck.h:2108:8: error: #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN." #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN."

I'm at a loss for what is going on with my setup, maybe you can offer some insight. So I have the exact same hardware as far as the board and stepper drivers and I have gone through my configuration files dozens of times now to make sure my settings are correct. I have my drivers set up in the exact same way in the firmware and all commands come back fine, nothing seems to be out of place. The issue I'm having is when using sensorless homing I get motor grind as if it's crashing but it doesn't actually crash. It just grinds for a bit and then realizes that it hit something. If I set the homing sensitivity too low I get the expected "homing failed" crash. I've tried several things to fix this issue from mucking with the current and vref, enabling endstop pullup for x and y min individually even though these supposedly don't need that. I tried homing in both stealthchop and spread cycle. I've even tried a second skr 1.3 and set of tmc2209's to be absolutely sure I didn't just have junk hardware and both sets behave exactly the same. The only real difference in my setup to yours is that I'm using 0.9 degree stepper motors (with steps/mm set accordingly) and I'm running my second z motor off the E1 plug. All motors move and behave as expected aside from the unbearable grinding. Have you seen anything similar to this problem before? I haven't been able to find much on the issue and it's got me stumped.

Hello. What is the VREF setting for 17HS4401S Nema Motor and 1/8 stepper stepper of Tmc2209 stepper motor driver board? Thank you.

hi chris , I have the same configuration stealhshop work perfectly but when i switch tmc2209 to spreadcycle i have high pitch sound ?

It seems like there would be a defect involving the stepper drivers actively heating those capacitors with nothing shielding the tops of the caps from the heat.

Great video thanks. Maybe you can help with this. I am building a printer and the hot end / carriage will travel past the edge of the bed before it will hit the end of travel in the x and y axis. Will I need to change any other setting for homing?

I'll be nice to cover FAN extension for SKR 1.3 :) Board is nice but for 2 extruder setup it lacks FAN ports. :/

Mr. Riley. Your videos are amazing man and really well done. I really enjoy your videos dude.

Do you know the difference between stallguard 2 and stallguard 4? I tried to find out on the trinamic web site but I couldn't find any information about stallguard 4, only 2.

THANK YOU FOR ALL THIS

Hey Chris, im into rebuilding 3ds cube 3, to use marlin and running skr1.4 with tmc2209, i cant get the sensorless probing to work...(not be able to Configure correctly??) does the diag pin need to be connected to zmin signal pin? I appreciate your videos, very informative, keep up with the good work

I have the same set up just that my Z axis will not home and I followed every step. Any ideas?

@Chris Riley, is this printer 12v ? Do you experience any whines when moving higher speeds ? For example my custom printer running skr v1.3 and tmc2209 or tmc2130 are experiencing whines when doing infill which is faster movement than external perimeters. Ender 3 which is 24v and has tmc2208 do not do this at all.

I've tried this on the SKR 1.4 Turbo and have done plenty of research (not enough apparently), read through the manuals on github and tried many things. I have even gotten the SKR 1.3 and turned sensorless homing up to 255 (also tried 1) and still does nothing (as the motor will not stop). Right now I pulled the board, motor, and wired up a power supply for easy access. I did notice that I get 0xC0:08:00:00 when using M122 but says all testing is OK. Trying on a P802M because board died but have a Ender 5 Plus on the way.

Hi Chris. I am a bit confused about these skr mainboards. I have read that the E3 mini is the most easy one to install in my ender 3, same layout just a replug and go. The thing is that I find many many many bad comments about the board breaking quickly. So I am looking into the skr 1.3 or 1.4 now. Is there any board you prefer about these 3? I would really like to start printing alot more silently. Thanks

HI how do I install these on a SKR PRO? also how do I set an SKR pro to now run my ender 5 as when I press home it just shoots off and crashes into the frame and the bed comes right up to tip which scrapes along the glass, same as if I press print I have to press emergency stop I cant print nothing and cant find any guides vids or help anywhere do you know how I can get my printer working?

I left my endstops attached as the stop point for sensorless. I'm at 18 for X & Y w/ 2130 drivers. Teaching Tech was able to get under 10. Beats me how.

Could you do a video about Sensorless Probing? There's so less information about this and i stopped at the message "#error "SENSORLESS_PROBING requires a TMC stepper driver with StallGuard on Z."" (I have a TMC2209) on Marlin. Would be amazing if you could try that probing type.

Hi Chris do I need to snip the diag pin if I don’t want senseless homing as installing on a delta thanks

Hi I would love to ask a question. If I use stand alone STEP / DIR mode how can I set the tmc to perform a full step each time?

Will I be able to connect these drivers in another mode without the uart mode

Lots of good information.

Very helpful. I am thinking to get a SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers. Chris, what do you think about dual Z motors with using E1 as you mentioned to configure to level the bed? As in my CR10 sometime the Z axis gets tilted on one side. I was thinking of using two endstops if possible but looks like I can use sensorless homing for Z as well? Will definitely have to set something on Z both sides so it does not hit hot end.

I installed the tmc2209 on the 4 axis and it's set (Driver Current) x: 800 y: 800 z: 800 E1: 800 And the driver ref v I put 1.25 is correct? Note: They are moving very fast and making noise.

I just wanted to verify that the Bigtreetech TMC2209 dont require any soldering for UART mode. Is this correct?

Hi Chris, awesome video! I plan to build a DIY printer (maybe) and think about mainboards, what's your recommendation? I might want to build a laser toolhead or so. Thank you a lot!

Hi Chris is the Marlin firmware stored on the Mainboard or on the Micro SD card. Can I transfer the card to exactly the same SKR board as I have a problem with the board in my Ender 3

Ok I’m a complete noob, what is that program that you’re manually entering in M-Codes into? And does that work for other types of printers, i.e. Ender 3?

hi chris i have a question about heat on the tmc2209 drivers and standard nema 17 motors. before i used cheap tmc2100 and they always ran hot i think they were doomed to fail. i did have a fan blowing on them though but ive had some fail. i believe the BTT tmc2209 heat up less and mine will have heatsinks but im wondering if they still need cooling? i dont think they would but i dont want to kill them. thanks in advance

Can i install them on the anycubic i3 mega s? Cant find anything on the whole web :(

Hi Chris, can I put these the same way on a mks gen l v2.0?

Thanks!

I'm getting an BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo for my Tarantula Pro, I want to put in updated drivers, but I need it to be somewhat easy, I'd like to just drop them in. Is 2209s easier than 2208s? How about the higher series with no pot adj, SPI? Any suggestions? Thx

THANK YOU!!

Chris is the best as usual.

Chris, what software are you using to make the edits to the configuration.h file?

Great information I’m waiting on my SKR 1.3 and 2209s currently from AliExpress

Hi Chris, so do I not need to adjust my vref if I were to install it on the my Skr 1.4 Turbo in UART mode? Thanks in advance

Will you be trying the Hemera on the same machine?

On line 662 in the Marlin in your video What is the difference between using TMC2209 and TMC2209_STANDALONE?

I'm glad you mentioned early that "if you buy something like a SKR1.3" exactly right, its what $25ish? I don't care how tight cash is, its just NOT worth mucking about crimping wires and stuffing about with firmware, finding pins etc for hours and hours on end for the sake of $25. And you are gaining a whole hell of a lot more than just that, you get a much faster board so it doesn't slow down in circular motions, heaps of RAM so you don't need to turn anything useful off, replaceable fuses etc My only gripe with the SKR board is unlike pretty much every other board on the market, it cannot be powered from BOTH usb AND 12/24v main power at the same time, only 1 'or' the other. What does this mean? Well take a Creality board for instance, it'll boot up with just a USB cable plugged in, but the screen will be dim, motors dont work etc, fine. But turn the mains power on, the screen lights up bright and easy to read and then all the other functions work as expected. The SKR doesn't do this, you change a pin and if you move it to provide power from USB, it will only ever power certain functions from the USB, like the display so it'll remain dim and hard to read constantly. It also has issues with stepper drivers in this way. If you kill the mains power, the stepper drivers screw up and lose some settings, namely the microstep values, so after resuming mains power they often revert to 1/8th microstepping and double the distance moved in any axis Once again, why does this matter? Well for me personally I use power relays to automatically turn the printer on as a print starts, and then off when its completed, just 1 extra thing to automate to make life easier. And this caused me a lot of grief. I did find a partial workaround which is to incorporate M500 ; save current settings to EEPROM G4 P500 ; pause 500ms M501 ; load settings from EEPROM G4 P1000 ; pause 1 second Into my starting G-Code. This process restores the correct microstepping value. I can't find any other G-Code to reset the stepper drivers only a M502 (and occasionally M501 needed) does it Still doesn't do anything for the screen or other functions (mains power still absolutely required when first starting or rebooting the board), and it prevents you from tweaking settings temporarily between prints and then restoring if you screwed something up. Also sometimes I need to also put M502 at the G-Code (restore hardcoded defaults) and that can completely screw ur ability to change settings as it'll always reload from firmware settings. That includes things like the Z offset If they fixed this so it operates exactly like most other boards on the market and not need this ridiculous workaround, it'd be the perfect board. But not everyone needs to use power relays like I do so its also a mute point for many people

hi i have a skr v1.3 and the tmc2209's in the video and i can not get stealthchop to work in pronterface when stealthchop is enabled in firmware it says it is in spreadcycle for all steppers i have them set up in uart mode atm.

Hi Chris, can you give me a little heads up on changing voltages on sensor less homing? I have both X & y working on a Hyper cube with 2209s on a SKR v1.4. Each axis homes really well individually but when homing all the Y homing clunks a little, it does not crash I cannot resolve with the sensitivity, seems much higher on the V1.4 turbo board at around 130. Clearly something to do with the Core XY set up but I have not figured out yet. I thought reducing voltages on homing might be the way. I have tried dual physical stops so the carriage homes evenly on both sides but this also does not make any difference. Thanks again Boothy

Very good timing. Again ;-)

how did you show/set the environment each upload?

It was quite some time since you setup sensorless homing. How well has it fared? Has it been reliable? And would you trust using it with a glass bed 🙂