2yrs old and it's more informative than the rest here on KZfaq. Thank you sir .
@ChrisRiley2 жыл бұрын
I appreciate that!
@HyenaZin2 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley still struggling but I'm on your everything z axis vid now . Homing issue but I'll get it soon .
@bliksemdonder56244 жыл бұрын
Timing is everything... I bought a set of Bigtreetech parts for my new CoreXY printer which include the SKR 1.3, 2209's and the TFT35 V3.0 controller a while back but have not had the time/energy to figure out how they fit together. Brother Chris to the rescue as he covered it all in his usual thorough manner. Well done and thank you, Chris.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Awesome to hear, thank you for watching and glad the videos help.
@daproph83524 жыл бұрын
Today, I have upgraded the mainboard to the BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers from the stock Anet A8 board. I am absolutely blown away by how much quieter my printer is. Before, I could hear the printer all the way upstairs, now i can barely hear it sitting 2 feet from it. And it runs so smooth now....I like it! Glad I seen your video on the 2209's. Thanks Chris!!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Awesome right!? SO much quieter, thanks for watching!
@AndyMartin514 жыл бұрын
2209's are in the mail on their way to me now. I picked them over the 2208 because of the current limit (2A vs 1.4A) so I can stick those beefy StepperOnline guys on my printer and chug the bed around at ludicrous speed. Great vid, your channel is really thorough and you have a great way of explaining these things. Keep it up!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
LUDICROUS SPEED!!! Thanks, man, I appreciate that.
@bertholdheisterkamp19444 жыл бұрын
mate, this is exactly all the information I was searching for, when I had to order a new board two weeks ago. For now I am still happy with the 2208‘s, but you made me curious about the 2209s next time. Can‘t believe this video just hit 1.000 views, almost every maker must watch this! Thank you!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Great to hear, I am glad it was helpful.
@m3chanist4 жыл бұрын
Good job wrangling/reading the matrix of features, I saw the smile at "if you're not confused now" and immediately wondered how many takes that had taken ;)
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks! LOL, I was starting to confuse myself!
@Robothut4 жыл бұрын
Amazing how far stepper drivers have come in the last 5 years. Thank you for another great "How Too" video.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks John! For real, these things are getting really impressive.
@CMDRBlueeagle664 жыл бұрын
Hey Chris. I installed my BTT TMC 2209's yesterday. Finally got a chance to test them today when the grandchildren went home. Holy hell my steppers are quiet! Now I know what I was missing when running my A4988's. Just got to re-build my X axis to replace a badly flat spotted mini V wheel and my AM8 will be back in business (albeit much quieter). I have a BTT Mini UPS on the way now too, to hopefully sort out power outages, so Marlin will resume better. Greetings from Wales 😀
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Hey Brian, yes, it is incredible how quiet they make the printer.
@slmars4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a bunch! This walkthrough makes it so much easier to get the pins correct.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
You're welcome, glad it helped you.
@johnshort94904 жыл бұрын
Thanks Chris. I watched other videos on this but only yours got me up and running. Thanks as well to Tobias below. I will also look forward to the 1.4 Turbo and 2209 video as that is the current setup i'm working on.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Awesome, yep, SKR 1.4 videos coming very soon.
@CMDRBlueeagle664 жыл бұрын
Thanks to your excellent videos, I have now just ordered some Bigtreetech 2209's for my SKR 1.3 to finally upgrade from my A4988's. 😀
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Great to hear! You'll love em.
@gptech24444 жыл бұрын
Just like to say thanks for doing these videos, I was able to swap out a melzi in a Wanhao i3 v2.1 in under an hour with the help of your videos.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! Glad they are helpful.
@fusseldieb4 жыл бұрын
This video just lead me over the edge and made me buy 5 TMC2209 V1.2 from BigTreeTech. Wish me luck :)
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Good luck!
@geoffb79004 жыл бұрын
Chris Thank you for the very informative videos. With your help I was able to get my TMC2209 and SKR 1.4T up and running. As a note, STEALTHCHOP for E & Z I did comment out. STEALTHCHOP for my BMG style extruder seemed to be creating noise with the stepper during retracts. Geoff
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Great! Nice, I have heard others have better results turning it off for E. Glad it's working for you.
@gandy47114 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the great review, looking forward to the sensorless bed leveling video 😁
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
You bet! Yeah, that one should be fun.
@gandymaxx4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley I bet it's even more fun doing that on a flexible plate with a magnetic base underneath ;-)
@XxNachilloxX4 жыл бұрын
Myyyy herooo, looking for a tutorial for 2 weeks and it is almost imposible to find information. I even thought asking you to make a tutorial ajjajajaja thanksssssss
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Niceeeee! Great to hear, I am glad this info will be helpful for others.
@markferrick104 жыл бұрын
Thanks Chris. Great and informative as usual. My 2209s are in the mail so this is my goto install video. I would love to see the use of stall guard 2 on z as a probe. Sounds kool.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Mark, yeah, I want to give that a try.
@danieltalavera98474 жыл бұрын
If you want to probe the bed with your nozzle, increase probing speed to 60 mm/s and reduce sensitivy bump
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Right on, I want to see what happens for sure.
@jflugum4 жыл бұрын
Awesome as always
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@thehappyextruder71784 жыл бұрын
Wow I am working on this Board so this Tut came just in time Thanks Chris !!!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! Great to hear, thanks Ron!!!
@earthlightsmusic2743 Жыл бұрын
This is a different kind of article than I was looking for. That's OK, it was easy enough: replace my A8988s with TCM2209s, putting the pot's toward the RAMPS power terminals, reverse the stepper connectors, and set Vref to about .8 volts. The new drivers quieted my Makerfarm Pegasus effectively, so I'm satisfied. Have fun, those of your making the more elaborate upgrade!
@ChrisRiley Жыл бұрын
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
@rondlh204 жыл бұрын
Great video again, I use a sponge to reduce the sensorless homing crashing impact, and start from the too sensitive setting and work downwards
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! great idea, I was thinking some felt pads or something would be a great add.
@astro_mittens57923 жыл бұрын
Chris... you are an absolute miracle worker
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
Ha! Thank you
@Yourresultsfitnesscoach4 жыл бұрын
your videos are great man! surprised you don't have more subscribers! quality content!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@TheMidnightSmith4 жыл бұрын
Killer timing! I just ordered some to replace my Wanhao i3 motherboard!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice!
@jchidley3 жыл бұрын
Excellent information concisely delivered. Just what I like.
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
I appreciate that!
@madmike84064 жыл бұрын
Awesome Video! Yup, I gotta get me some 2209s... This will surely help my skr setup...
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Mike, yep, they are the best I have seen so far.
@edoardoo4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! This helped me a lot debugging sensorless homing.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Great! Thanks for watching!
@EdS8084 жыл бұрын
Thank for a great video . I also would like to see a video with the Skr v1.4 turbo.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Cool, I will work on it.
@NuarStanger4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video! Very informative... and convenient since I recently got an skr 1.3 and tmc2209s lol
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! Glad it helps out.
@ConspiredOne4 жыл бұрын
Great video Chris. Looking forward to a senseless Z probing video with these....
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks! We will see what I can do.
@ConspiredOne4 жыл бұрын
No rush bro, i got mine up kinda. Working out the kinks. Mostly sensativity.
@danstreelman6924 жыл бұрын
One big reason to move from 2208's to 2209's is Linear Advance. From what I've read, the 2208's are not compatible with Linear Advance within Marlin.
@martijnajanssen4 жыл бұрын
Correct. From experience I can say that 2208 with LA results in a non-functional extruder. Did read about some possible fixes, but haven't tried them yet. It's easier to move to 2209 ;-)
@arminth4 жыл бұрын
2208 work in UART mode. You only have issues, when using Standalone-mode. Also the SQUARE_STEPPING option helps.
@stigberntsen93014 жыл бұрын
All you need to do is changing this setting from 0 to 1 --: #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 1 There is other resons for changing to 2209, LA is not one of them.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Good to know LA is working on the 2208 cause I have a ton of them. LOL
@JohnSmith-mk8hz4 жыл бұрын
I see this was already mentioned in the comments and wondered if you figured it out yet? The instructions for the SKR 1.3/1.4 say for 2209's you need to cut the diag pin if using mechanical endstop on that driver. I assume you didn't cut the pin for Z. Is the bed level probe seen as a mechanical endstop?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I didn't cut the pin and I would think the jumper would control this. I am going to test this again. Yes, the probe should be just like a mechanical switch.
@JohnSmith-mk8hz4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley After looking into it more, it's only the SKR 1.4 board that you have to cut the pin if you don't want to use stallgaurd. A step backwards from the 1.3. I'm not sure why they did that.
@jacquesrooswinkel99544 жыл бұрын
Chris, is it possible to do a install/config video about the SKR 1.4 (turbo) with TMC2209 steppers? I would be very thankful!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yes, I will work on it.
@qwerrrrta4 жыл бұрын
I second that. I have a SKR 1.4 Turbo and the TMC2209-1.2 lying around here, and I just can't get the drivers to run in UART mode. Pronterface always gives me "Error: All LOW" on m122. Hence the interest ;)
@qwerrrrta4 жыл бұрын
OK, I figured this out: The UART-Connection only works with 12V connected.
@jacquesrooswinkel99544 жыл бұрын
I have it working now for a great deal. I have a creality CR-10S and have now installed the SKR 1.4 Turbo board with TMC2209-1.2 drivers in UART mode. I also activated sensorless homing. I'm able to move all axes in both directions, but I can't get my ABL probe (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V - inductive NPN) to work for doing the Z-homing. It starts the Z-home procedure and is going down, but it won't stop when the probe is triggered. M119 says that the probe is triggered or open, depending on the state, but whatever I change in Marlin it won't stop and will crash into the plate. By the way, I'm using the Marlin 2.1.x development version. Any ideas?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@qwerrrrta Interesting find.
@EPICPRINTS4 жыл бұрын
thanks been looking to upgrade my board in all my printers now I feel like i can do it.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Sweet! It's great I can help, it is an awesome upgrade.
@htw0074 жыл бұрын
Nice video one more time Chris... i like how you explain everything...
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Great to hear, thank you for watching!
@trt9694 жыл бұрын
Perfect explanation... Thanks for the video!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@MacFly6694 жыл бұрын
Thanks Chris for this video. Very helpfull as usual ! Love your channel ! Did you already test or review the SKR 1.4 ?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! The 1.4 stuff is coming up very soon, I will be finishing it tomorrow.,
@OffTheWall13204 жыл бұрын
I'm currently setting these exact TMC2209 from Bigreetech drivers up on an SKR 1.4. Almost done.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! I am still waiting on my 1.4.
@JackWagonOne4 жыл бұрын
Me too!
@markgreco19624 жыл бұрын
Thanks Chris!!😀😀
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Mark!
@mschild954 жыл бұрын
Does anyone know the difference between the BTT TMC2209 v1.1 and v1.2?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Looks like on the 1.1v they were having sensorless homing issues. 1.2 I have verified it works.
@3DreamDesigns4 жыл бұрын
It would be great to see you show the setup of skr 1.4 turbo, 2209 on the SK-GO
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I am working on the 1.4 stuff now.
@3DreamDesigns4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley i have just managed to get mine working SKR 1.4 Turbo, 2209s uart mode and sensorless homing but i did have to drop sensitivity down to 110. I'm also using a trulev probe and i did have to cut the diag pin off the Z axis. Im using the Seckit SK-GO :)
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@3DreamDesigns Good deal, glad you got it working.
@alexanderdoh93114 жыл бұрын
Hi. Thx for the Vid. I have mine skr 1.3 with tmc2209 and an tft35 here. I use an Sidewinder X1. Do you have an config for me? What must i change? thx
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks! I'm not really sure on the X1, I have never had to do that config. I am sure someone has one online.
@hightde134 жыл бұрын
I'd just like to second your comment about playing with sensor-less homing on z to use it as an abl sensor. That would be pretty cool if it worked reliably.
@OldCurmudgeon3DP4 жыл бұрын
The torque on a Z lead screw is so high compared to a belt axis I can't see Z using sensorless homing.
@Deneteus4 жыл бұрын
That's like waiting for parts to be destroyed. One wrong setting and smash. Broken.
@hightde134 жыл бұрын
@@Deneteus Not any different than x or y and so far it seems to work a treat on them.
@Deneteus4 жыл бұрын
@@hightde13 X & Y don't typically have a piece of glass or a hot end nozzle to smash into. The worst that ever happens with X & Y is it hitting a support.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, this one could get interesting.
@dad3114 жыл бұрын
Great video, perfect timing.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Darrell!
@nurfatrochman37264 жыл бұрын
Tmc2208 vs tmc2209 for ender 3 which cooler stepper motor?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
2209 will run cooler.
@glasseyi4 жыл бұрын
Thank you 🙏 brother Chris! Another great instruction video. Do you know if the the MKS SGEN L board will setup the same.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
It should be the same, but you'll have to have the UART jumpers to use the features. Or just go standalone.
@Mr0neShotAway4 жыл бұрын
Cool Prusa clone. Do you have a video/guide building it?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Check tom out here. toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/
@okflyer777 Жыл бұрын
Great video Chris. I just ordered a SKR 1.4 + 2209's to use with Klipper / Moonraker / Fluidd. Plan on doing the setup using KIAUH which appears to be the "new" way to do things. Would love to see you do a quick tutorial on that approach.
@ChrisRiley Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the idea, I'll look into it!
@danieltalavera98474 жыл бұрын
Something cool to try is Power Loss. My XY have sensorless homing, my Z use an endstop. When power loss happens it returns to the right Z position but not for XY, it shifts. Guess sensorless homing and power loss dont go along
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Interesting, I will have to try this. Might have to re-home to get it to work.
@fusseldieb4 жыл бұрын
My guess is that sensorless homing is unreliable because the motor might flex more on one homing than another and this causes inpredictability in the position. It's nice for one-go print where the zero position doesn't need to be 100.0% accurate, but as soon as you need to rehome and use it again, it'll shift a bit.
@mitofun69674 жыл бұрын
Hi Chtis thank you for the instructions everything works goooooooood!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
You're welcome!
@VincentFischer4 жыл бұрын
Wait..stepper drivers are controlled via UART now? I think not many microcontrollers have more than two hardware uarts, so they make it work with bit banging which kind of defeats the advantage of speed a bit, doesn't it?
@vasenkasi48464 жыл бұрын
TMC2209 UART uses a frame structure with a slave address field, so you can drive multiple chips (up to 4) with one UART.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, things get a bit tricky with one serial. I am currently troubleshooting some issues with multiple devices now.
@johncastle68244 жыл бұрын
How do you setup a second Extruder?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
That I don't know, I have never tried on one of these. You should be able to just enable it in the firmware.
@wrxsubaru025 ай бұрын
Hey Chris, do you know what the difference is between SPI Mode VS. SD Mode on TMC5160T PRO? I can’t find any information or videos that explains what the SD Mode does.
@ChrisRiley5 ай бұрын
I looked at the manual, I can't find anything other than SPI mode, not sure what SD mode might be.
@TheTrueTek4 жыл бұрын
That's weird, compiling the lastest stable Marlin 2.0 release, when trying to set the endstops to 'false', I get a sanity check saying they have to be set to 'true' for sensorless homing... In file included from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/MarlinConfig.h:38, from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/serial.h:24, from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\DebugMonitor.cpp:26: Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/SanityCheck.h:2108:8: error: #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN." #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN."
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Strange, I am working on a config now with the official release, I will check it out.
@TheTrueTek4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, let me know if you find anything :) Keep up the awesome work!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@TheTrueTek Hey Rafi, I confirmed it would let me set it to false. Not sure what's up with your config. On another note, care to share your MMU2 SKR config? ;)
@TheTrueTek4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley Strange, I'm running off of the official Marlin 2.0 release... I've got it mostly running right now, worked around a bunch of weird issues, (like the extruder only working in one direction if i set the second serial port to 2!) What's the best way to share my config files with you?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@TheTrueTek A Google drive link would be great!
@MrKarriban4 жыл бұрын
I'm at a loss for what is going on with my setup, maybe you can offer some insight. So I have the exact same hardware as far as the board and stepper drivers and I have gone through my configuration files dozens of times now to make sure my settings are correct. I have my drivers set up in the exact same way in the firmware and all commands come back fine, nothing seems to be out of place. The issue I'm having is when using sensorless homing I get motor grind as if it's crashing but it doesn't actually crash. It just grinds for a bit and then realizes that it hit something. If I set the homing sensitivity too low I get the expected "homing failed" crash. I've tried several things to fix this issue from mucking with the current and vref, enabling endstop pullup for x and y min individually even though these supposedly don't need that. I tried homing in both stealthchop and spread cycle. I've even tried a second skr 1.3 and set of tmc2209's to be absolutely sure I didn't just have junk hardware and both sets behave exactly the same. The only real difference in my setup to yours is that I'm using 0.9 degree stepper motors (with steps/mm set accordingly) and I'm running my second z motor off the E1 plug. All motors move and behave as expected aside from the unbearable grinding. Have you seen anything similar to this problem before? I haven't been able to find much on the issue and it's got me stumped.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I know you have tried both ways, but the only way sensorless homing will work right now on the 2209 is with stealthchop. The only thing I can think of is the jumper isn't on the X and Y diag pins.
@MrKarriban4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley hey, thanks for your reply! I actually managed to fix it about a couple hours after I posted my comment. I'm not sure what exactly it was, but it was something in the firmware causing my issue. I realized that I was running a modified Marlin config that was built for an anet a8 because my printer is actually an am8. I had just gone through changed what I thought were all of the relevant settings when I changed over to an SKR 1.3 and everything functioned as expected when I was using tmc2208's. I decided to start with a fresh copy of Marlin to rebuild it from stock for the SKR board, and now everything works as expected :D I'm gonna compare the configs between the two later to try and figure out exactly what was causing my issue so maybe I can help others from having the same headache. One thing that still stands out to me though is the homing sensitivity on mine is considerably higher than yours. I had to set it to 170 on both x and y to get a quiet homing bump.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@MrKarriban Glad it's working. Interesting, I guess the higher setting is okay, just not sure why that is.
@beykana2 жыл бұрын
Hello. What is the VREF setting for 17HS4401S Nema Motor and 1/8 stepper stepper of Tmc2209 stepper motor driver board? Thank you.
@ChrisRiley Жыл бұрын
That's a 1.7 amp motor, it would depend on your load, but 800 would be a great starting point.
@mondingue4 жыл бұрын
hi chris , I have the same configuration stealhshop work perfectly but when i switch tmc2209 to spreadcycle i have high pitch sound ?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, that is usually chopper timing causing that. They are a little quieter at 24v. See if changing this setting helps. #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_12V
@Deneteus4 жыл бұрын
It seems like there would be a defect involving the stepper drivers actively heating those capacitors with nothing shielding the tops of the caps from the heat.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
For the most part there doesn't seem to be an issue. They do make risers to lift them up a bit that helps.
@Deneteus4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley If I didn't have risers I would use some Kapton tape to block the heat from the driver above the capacitor. Capacitors themselves generate their own heat during use. The heat generated by the driver will be transferred to the case of the capacitors via emissive heat radiation. For every 10°C increase in operating temperature, the life of the electrolytic capacitor reduces by half. The best practices say to use a heat shield to block any heat radiating from other sources. So you can have heat coming from the board, the capacitor itself and anything around the cap that will reduce its life.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@Deneteus Nice, Kapton tape is a good idea.
@dougw92244 жыл бұрын
Great video thanks. Maybe you can help with this. I am building a printer and the hot end / carriage will travel past the edge of the bed before it will hit the end of travel in the x and y axis. Will I need to change any other setting for homing?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
You mean it doesn't stop when the endstop is triggered?
@dougw92244 жыл бұрын
Not actually sure at the moment. I’m in the process of building a printer and I made the frame large enough for a 300mm heat bed but right now I’m putting a smaller 210 (give or take) bed on it. It appears that the carriage will be able to travel to the left (view from the front) farther off the bed area then just to the edge. So I was wondering how one would adjust for the extra distance before the x carriage hit the frame hard stop for homing. Thx
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@dougw9224 Yes, so you will set the X/Y min to a negative number. 0,0 would be the corner of the bed. Anything more than that toward the endstop would be the negative setting.
@DenisOvod4 жыл бұрын
I'll be nice to cover FAN extension for SKR 1.3 :) Board is nice but for 2 extruder setup it lacks FAN ports. :/
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Agreed, we need more ports. :)
@DenisOvod4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley yep with something like this www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-and-using-Reprap-Ramps14-RRD-Fan-Exten/
@DenisOvod4 жыл бұрын
Found guide for skr 1.3 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aMt3iNyA2bq1ook.html
@renderance35514 жыл бұрын
Mr. Riley. Your videos are amazing man and really well done. I really enjoy your videos dude.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Glad you like them!
@hightde134 жыл бұрын
Do you know the difference between stallguard 2 and stallguard 4? I tried to find out on the trinamic web site but I couldn't find any information about stallguard 4, only 2.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I really don't, but I might be able to get them to fill us in. I will try.
@BigHorse42004 жыл бұрын
Stallguard 4 also works in stealthchop mode
@rayztech73844 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU FOR ALL THIS
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@matejbratoz78724 жыл бұрын
Hey Chris, im into rebuilding 3ds cube 3, to use marlin and running skr1.4 with tmc2209, i cant get the sensorless probing to work...(not be able to Configure correctly??) does the diag pin need to be connected to zmin signal pin? I appreciate your videos, very informative, keep up with the good work
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
On a 1.4 as long as you have all the pins on (not clipped) sensorless homing should work. Marlin just released 2.0.5 that fixes some issues with sensorless homing.
@GioVader4 жыл бұрын
I have the same set up just that my Z axis will not home and I followed every step. Any ideas?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Does it crash? is it a 1.3 board?
@Wello7893 жыл бұрын
@Chris Riley, is this printer 12v ? Do you experience any whines when moving higher speeds ? For example my custom printer running skr v1.3 and tmc2209 or tmc2130 are experiencing whines when doing infill which is faster movement than external perimeters. Ender 3 which is 24v and has tmc2208 do not do this at all.
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
Yes, they are a bit louder at 12v, especially in spread cycle. If you set the 12v option in Marlin it's a bit better.
@unrealbasic16124 жыл бұрын
I've tried this on the SKR 1.4 Turbo and have done plenty of research (not enough apparently), read through the manuals on github and tried many things. I have even gotten the SKR 1.3 and turned sensorless homing up to 255 (also tried 1) and still does nothing (as the motor will not stop). Right now I pulled the board, motor, and wired up a power supply for easy access. I did notice that I get 0xC0:08:00:00 when using M122 but says all testing is OK. Trying on a P802M because board died but have a Ender 5 Plus on the way.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
What drivers do you have? They may be hardset to standalone mode.
@unrealbasic16124 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley Got everything you have in video and followed video several times. That is Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 with TMC2209 also tried SKR 1.4 turbo as well. I am new to 3D printing however but have learned a lot in past month especially trying to figure this out.
@daproph83524 жыл бұрын
Not all TMC2209 driver boards are created equal, this I have learned today. Your issue may be with the driver board itself as it may not have the DIAG pin installed in the correct location for the SKR 1.4 Turbo. Easy way to know would be to do a pin count on the bottom of the TMC2209. If you have 17 pins, then i'm 99.9% sure that the DIAG pin is not connected to the SKR 1.4 Turbo mainboard as that pin location is one spot over. No DIAG connection means no Stallguard and no Stallguard means no Sensorless homing. My setup is the SKR 1.4 Turbo with Eryone TMC2209 drivers. The only solution that I can see to correct this is to solder a jumper wire on the bottom of the board at the DIAG location and run it to the DIAG header pin on the TMC2209.....or get different TMC2209's that actually work with the board. Hope this helps ya.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@daproph8352 So true, they all seem to be just a bit different.
@pieter-63854 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris. I am a bit confused about these skr mainboards. I have read that the E3 mini is the most easy one to install in my ender 3, same layout just a replug and go. The thing is that I find many many many bad comments about the board breaking quickly. So I am looking into the skr 1.3 or 1.4 now. Is there any board you prefer about these 3? I would really like to start printing alot more silently. Thanks
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I have had good luck will all these boards, but I have heard people have had issues. I have had the most luck with the 1.3 board I would say, but I really like the mini because it fits in the case.
@turdsmurfgamingtechandproj72144 жыл бұрын
HI how do I install these on a SKR PRO? also how do I set an SKR pro to now run my ender 5 as when I press home it just shoots off and crashes into the frame and the bed comes right up to tip which scrapes along the glass, same as if I press print I have to press emergency stop I cant print nothing and cant find any guides vids or help anywhere do you know how I can get my printer working?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I would have to look at your config, you have a pretty custom setup.
@OldCurmudgeon3DP4 жыл бұрын
I left my endstops attached as the stop point for sensorless. I'm at 18 for X & Y w/ 2130 drivers. Teaching Tech was able to get under 10. Beats me how.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
With 2130's I was a lot lower as well, don't remember the setting. I would have to rewatch the video. LOL
@shaxperiment4 жыл бұрын
Could you do a video about Sensorless Probing? There's so less information about this and i stopped at the message "#error "SENSORLESS_PROBING requires a TMC stepper driver with StallGuard on Z."" (I have a TMC2209) on Marlin. Would be amazing if you could try that probing type.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I have tried before and failed. I am hoping in the next release of Marlin I will get it to work.
@muserbellamy11403 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris do I need to snip the diag pin if I don’t want senseless homing as installing on a delta thanks
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
Depends on the board, if it's not an SKR 1.4, then no.
@idogedanken99993 жыл бұрын
Hi I would love to ask a question. If I use stand alone STEP / DIR mode how can I set the tmc to perform a full step each time?
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
You would pull MS1 MS2 and MS3 jumpers off, that would put them in full step.
@idogedanken99993 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley there is no ms3
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
@@idogedanken9999 Which board?
@eliasferreira340 Жыл бұрын
Will I be able to connect these drivers in another mode without the uart mode
@ChrisRiley Жыл бұрын
You should be able to use stand alone mode, but you might have to solder some pins. Check the BTT github for the manual.
@woodwaker14 жыл бұрын
Lots of good information.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching Dave!
@Kelvin555s4 жыл бұрын
Very helpful. I am thinking to get a SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers. Chris, what do you think about dual Z motors with using E1 as you mentioned to configure to level the bed? As in my CR10 sometime the Z axis gets tilted on one side. I was thinking of using two endstops if possible but looks like I can use sensorless homing for Z as well? Will definitely have to set something on Z both sides so it does not hit hot end.
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, that is going to be tricky. I haven't tested the Z sensorless homing yet. It would be cool if it would run up to the top and level before every print. Adding the second E1 Z driver shouldn't matter to much. Should be the same results.
@RicardoOliveira-mk5xn3 жыл бұрын
I installed the tmc2209 on the 4 axis and it's set (Driver Current) x: 800 y: 800 z: 800 E1: 800 And the driver ref v I put 1.25 is correct? Note: They are moving very fast and making noise.
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
The vref at the drive will report this when in UART, correct. 800 shouldn't cause them to move faster, it could be another setting.
@dad3114 жыл бұрын
I just wanted to verify that the Bigtreetech TMC2209 dont require any soldering for UART mode. Is this correct?
@biskero4 жыл бұрын
yes is correct
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yep, I second that. :)
@certified-forklifter4 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris, awesome video! I plan to build a DIY printer (maybe) and think about mainboards, what's your recommendation? I might want to build a laser toolhead or so. Thank you a lot!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
It's really hard to beat the SKR 1.3 for the money. For the $20, it's worth a try.
@certified-forklifter4 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley thanks
@colinraines3953 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris is the Marlin firmware stored on the Mainboard or on the Micro SD card. Can I transfer the card to exactly the same SKR board as I have a problem with the board in my Ender 3
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
It's loaded from the SD card, but stored on the board. You should have a .CUR file on the SD card, if you rename that to a .bin then you can use that to reload your firmware to a new board.
@heatherryan982011 ай бұрын
Ok I’m a complete noob, what is that program that you’re manually entering in M-Codes into? And does that work for other types of printers, i.e. Ender 3?
@ChrisRiley11 ай бұрын
We call that Pronterface, check it out here. www.pronterface.com/
@TotoGuy-Original3 жыл бұрын
hi chris i have a question about heat on the tmc2209 drivers and standard nema 17 motors. before i used cheap tmc2100 and they always ran hot i think they were doomed to fail. i did have a fan blowing on them though but ive had some fail. i believe the BTT tmc2209 heat up less and mine will have heatsinks but im wondering if they still need cooling? i dont think they would but i dont want to kill them. thanks in advance
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
More cooling is never a bad thing, but you probably won't need it if you have heatsinks. Even better if you run them at 24v. Try to dial in your currents as low as you can and you should be okay with out a fan.
@619Pascal4 жыл бұрын
Can i install them on the anycubic i3 mega s? Cant find anything on the whole web :(
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Yes you can, you might have to make some firmware changes as they will turn in the opposite direction. You will need to run them in standalone more.
@agenttank4 жыл бұрын
putting them into standalone mode is all i need for the mega s/x?! these settings are very confusing lol
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
@@agenttank Correct, but you will have to solder some pads to get it to work depending on the driver board. It seems like all of them are different.
@andreas434 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris, can I put these the same way on a mks gen l v2.0?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I think so, shouldn't be an issue, but I am not sure that board has integrated driver support. You might need to use some jumpers to hook it up.
@christophersaintdenis59654 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@okolepuka8084 жыл бұрын
I'm getting an BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo for my Tarantula Pro, I want to put in updated drivers, but I need it to be somewhat easy, I'd like to just drop them in. Is 2209s easier than 2208s? How about the higher series with no pot adj, SPI? Any suggestions? Thx
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
I would just go with 2209's, the BTT board makes them really easy to use.
@matmizz4 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU!!
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
You're welcome!
@fastfood122 Жыл бұрын
Chris is the best as usual.
@ChrisRiley Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@theviperman34 жыл бұрын
Chris, what software are you using to make the edits to the configuration.h file?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
That is VScode and notepad ++
@CarlRay55224 жыл бұрын
Great information I’m waiting on my SKR 1.3 and 2209s currently from AliExpress
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! Glad I got it out in time! ;)
@lisalotravels3 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris, so do I not need to adjust my vref if I were to install it on the my Skr 1.4 Turbo in UART mode? Thanks in advance
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
No, just use M906 to adjust it, start around 800.
@grogyan4 жыл бұрын
Will you be trying the Hemera on the same machine?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Maybe, haven't decided yet, but I will be trying it soon!
@rramirezx8738 Жыл бұрын
On line 662 in the Marlin in your video What is the difference between using TMC2209 and TMC2209_STANDALONE?
@ChrisRiley Жыл бұрын
TMC2209 is controlled through UART (the firmware) standalone is controlled with pins and jumpers.
@rramirezx8738 Жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley thanks, it's clear to me
@aidangillett53964 жыл бұрын
I'm glad you mentioned early that "if you buy something like a SKR1.3" exactly right, its what $25ish? I don't care how tight cash is, its just NOT worth mucking about crimping wires and stuffing about with firmware, finding pins etc for hours and hours on end for the sake of $25. And you are gaining a whole hell of a lot more than just that, you get a much faster board so it doesn't slow down in circular motions, heaps of RAM so you don't need to turn anything useful off, replaceable fuses etc My only gripe with the SKR board is unlike pretty much every other board on the market, it cannot be powered from BOTH usb AND 12/24v main power at the same time, only 1 'or' the other. What does this mean? Well take a Creality board for instance, it'll boot up with just a USB cable plugged in, but the screen will be dim, motors dont work etc, fine. But turn the mains power on, the screen lights up bright and easy to read and then all the other functions work as expected. The SKR doesn't do this, you change a pin and if you move it to provide power from USB, it will only ever power certain functions from the USB, like the display so it'll remain dim and hard to read constantly. It also has issues with stepper drivers in this way. If you kill the mains power, the stepper drivers screw up and lose some settings, namely the microstep values, so after resuming mains power they often revert to 1/8th microstepping and double the distance moved in any axis Once again, why does this matter? Well for me personally I use power relays to automatically turn the printer on as a print starts, and then off when its completed, just 1 extra thing to automate to make life easier. And this caused me a lot of grief. I did find a partial workaround which is to incorporate M500 ; save current settings to EEPROM G4 P500 ; pause 500ms M501 ; load settings from EEPROM G4 P1000 ; pause 1 second Into my starting G-Code. This process restores the correct microstepping value. I can't find any other G-Code to reset the stepper drivers only a M502 (and occasionally M501 needed) does it Still doesn't do anything for the screen or other functions (mains power still absolutely required when first starting or rebooting the board), and it prevents you from tweaking settings temporarily between prints and then restoring if you screwed something up. Also sometimes I need to also put M502 at the G-Code (restore hardcoded defaults) and that can completely screw ur ability to change settings as it'll always reload from firmware settings. That includes things like the Z offset If they fixed this so it operates exactly like most other boards on the market and not need this ridiculous workaround, it'd be the perfect board. But not everyone needs to use power relays like I do so its also a mute point for many people
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the comment and your thoughts on this board. I am curious where BTT will go from here. They do have a new 1.4 out now. I hope it will fill in some gaps for us.
@996stoky3 жыл бұрын
hi i have a skr v1.3 and the tmc2209's in the video and i can not get stealthchop to work in pronterface when stealthchop is enabled in firmware it says it is in spreadcycle for all steppers i have them set up in uart mode atm.
@ChrisRiley3 жыл бұрын
Hmm, stuck in eeprom? Try resetting it. M502 then M500.
@996stoky3 жыл бұрын
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply i will get back to you when i have done this in the process of printing out all parts for motherboard swap
@boothybuilds4 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris, can you give me a little heads up on changing voltages on sensor less homing? I have both X & y working on a Hyper cube with 2209s on a SKR v1.4. Each axis homes really well individually but when homing all the Y homing clunks a little, it does not crash I cannot resolve with the sensitivity, seems much higher on the V1.4 turbo board at around 130. Clearly something to do with the Core XY set up but I have not figured out yet. I thought reducing voltages on homing might be the way. I have tried dual physical stops so the carriage homes evenly on both sides but this also does not make any difference. Thanks again Boothy
@boothybuilds4 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris, I have just adjusted the voltages, it was staring me in the face, apologies for the request. I have found a sweet balance of 175 for the X current home and 150 for the Y current home. However on initial homing after switching on the Y axis still clunks a little but thereafter on repeat it is fine. I will now start looking at the driver current themselves. I did not realise that both sensor less homing sensitivity and the Driver currents can be individually changed directly from the printer on screen menu in Marlin from the config , advanced settings, TMC drivers menu, which is so much easier for testing. Best Boothy
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Hey Stephen, I am glad you got it sorted out. Take care.
@martijnajanssen4 жыл бұрын
Very good timing. Again ;-)
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Nice! I love it! I am always glad when these videos are helpful.
@sethgibbons804 жыл бұрын
how did you show/set the environment each upload?
@ChrisRiley4 жыл бұрын
Check this one out. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZyqjNmDzK3WY4U.html
@sethgibbons804 жыл бұрын
Thanks man!
@andyspoo22 жыл бұрын
It was quite some time since you setup sensorless homing. How well has it fared? Has it been reliable? And would you trust using it with a glass bed 🙂
@ChrisRiley2 жыл бұрын
Sensorless homing works well on certain printers, but not well on others. You have to get it just right, the firware does get better and better as we go. I still wouldn't trust sensorless Z with a glass bed.