Thanks for the comment

Thanks for the comment

Hmmm, im trying to remember back i sold the Xsara a few weeks ago. If i recall correctly you undo the nuts that hold the rear light cluster in place, pop it out of the car then disconnect the bulb holder from the outer lens.

The lift pump in the tank will fill the filter housing again in a short space of time. I may not have shown that here. Turn on the ignition but not the engine, a few times to let the filter housing fill up. You should be able to hear the lift pump in the back pumping let it run till it turns itself off, repeat about 5 times to fill the housing. Then start the engine, starts back up every time with no harm done to the fuel pump.

no I'm talking about the engine oil pressure

+Tony Vella The oil filter then? I don't really understand that technique you are referring to. I just fill the filter half full with oil, put it on and it should have oil pressure fairly quickly. The only other thing i can really think of would be to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor to prevent the car starting and cranking it over for a few turns to build up oil pressure. That might be more applicable after a major engine rebuild, but not really necessary during an oil change, there is sufficient residual oil in the engine to avoid damage.

+Rory Byrne Hi sorry about the late reply, on mobile atm. Ahy its definitely possible without a lift, I've started using a lift a bit more now in my videos because its handier for getting the camera in round the car but yes set the axle stands up securely and be sure the car is on them safely, chock the wheels if only using a pair. As for the procedure of changing the cable it varies between cars, haven't done this Xsara's handbrake yet but if its anything like a 306 then the cable clips into the calliper, the other end at the handbrake you need to remove whatever trim surrounds it to be able to unclip the cable from the lever. Haven't come across many handbrakes that can't be sorted out DIY other than these modern electric ones.

Cheers mate going to struggle with it today lashing rain. So sent her to a nice warm garage. keep the videos coming!

+peugeotCitroen2CV Having a go at servicing my xsara, and got the fuel, air and cabin filter done, bit of an issue with the oil filter, whats the name of the tool your using to remove the oil filter, thanks.

Definatlry a good car for running costs i was driving it while the 406 was out of action, the fuel economy stayed above 50mpg the entire time, its no ball of fire in terms of performance but makes up for it with comfort. Parts are not really expensive, this service cost under £30.

John McDonald hello

Not fooled by the editing at all there haha

peugeotCitroen2CV :D

I believe the miles are calculated from the speedometer, the speed sensor is located on the differential housing of the gearbox.

Is it in the same place on a 2015 expert?

peugeotCitroen2CV I need replace this filter how removed cover

I am not too sure i have not worked on the new expert van

In fairness to it the old xsara was not a bad car. Sold it but still see it driving about.

@@peugeotCitroen2CV my father had the 2,0 hdi coupe with 380.000 km

@@peugeotCitroen2CV we replaced the diesel filter today. So easy. It took 15min.

@@noahm.4001 380,000 km is 236,000 miles. Nothing to these engines, well up for covering much much more if looked after. Good job on the filter change.

@@peugeotCitroen2CV now I have the 1999 xsara with the 2,0 hdi engine. With 190.000km. But next jear I have to replace the rear axle.

No, the fuel pump will whirr for a bit to fill up the housing but it does not draw anywhere enough current to flatten the battery. Done many a 2.0 HDi and never flattened a battery by letting the in tank pump fill up the filter housing. If the battery went flat because of such a small bit of work its time to change it.

+Tadas Varnelis No worries mate good to hear the suggestions, and Nice C15 van. Good comments there, although i do check the oil after the car has idled just to make sure its level has not dropped after the oil filter is filled, having said that half filling the filter before fitting it to the engine does mean the oil level does not drop too much. Nonetheless its well worth checking the oil a few times after changing it before going on any sort of drive to make sure its well circulated through the engine. Typically there is enough residual oil in there for this not to cause a problem but if you really want to be careful disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and crank the engine over to build up pressure and check the level again before reconnecting the sensor and starting up the engine. Not too sure about the fuel filter comment, taking the filter out first or after draining the housing there is very little difference in the two techniques, yes taking it out before draining it may drip a bit of diesel upon removal, however i do think its handy how once the filter is out the diesel passing through the drain plug should also remove as much gunk as possible, although the lint free cloth to clean out the inside of the housing is useful for any sludge at the bottom of the housing, if you want its always an option to remove the filter housing to give it a full cleaning. As for the air filter i have seen some that almost have a small garden below the filter, but on this particular Xsara is was clean in there, it wasn't even dusty. Valid suggestions nonetheless which can highlight potential things which need to be looked at during a service, thanks for them.

+peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks. That C15 had some problems with the original type 44kw engine (engine oil burning, compression loss) few years ago, so now it has partly rebuilt XUD7TE engine completely with a gearbox (instead of original with short gears) from BX Turbo, so its more compatible for long trips that I mostly like to use it for, as you can cruise it about 100kmh and still have best economy. Also, slightly raised turbo wastegate opening setting and slightly raised turbo pressure activated fuel amount makes it a little more competitive in nowadays traffic, but it would also be valuable to increase the performance of braking, as the original discs are only 247mm monolith. A change to 266mm vented discs should give some real pleasure, but I so much want to keep as much originality, as I can, except the engine. The engine is an older type A8A, without valve stem seals and EGR, with older type 130bar rebuilt Bosch injectors and a Bosch fuel pump without electrical advance, only thermostatic, so I absolutely adore it. Its a pre 1990 C15, so it still has some nice Citro- things as a one spoke steering wheel, non assisted rebuilt steering rack, belt driven brake vacuum pump, etc. Almost every part of the car was touched or rebuilt by my own hands so me and my girlfriend are very familiar with it :) Planning a full body job as here, where we live (LT) most of the cars have to fight with corossion isues and that (corossion protection) was not planned by engineers, who created this car for south Europe markets, whick doesnt include cold and snowy winter and salty roads. I mean the van even doesnt have normal heater as it only heats through the central vent hole, and that was a difficulty when we travelled to Nordkapp last winter, when theres like -20C outside and its only warming your gearshift hand. But the side vents are perfect when travelling south, like Spain, Portugal, as it take air directly from outside, without any tubes, angles and blowers - it is a reasonable AC analogue :) I am actually a real BX lover and now still have two of them in my shed - BX16TGI monopoint injection and BX14TGE monopoint injection with LPG system. Few years ago had TZD Turbo, which was totally amazing until the accident with a 2008 Subaru legacy (not my fault). Sorry for critics. I think I have missed the part where You fill half of the filter with fresh oil, as the remaining part is not so much, and for the first idle start its absolutely enough. In my garage we usually fill something like minus half or even one liter (for amounts more then 5L) of oil quantity for the start as its not a problem for a minute, and that way we leave some safety factor for deformed sumps, that now became more and more usual as the fashion of lowriders strikes again. You are right about the fuel filter, but I dealt with so much fuel pressure problems caused only by foolish replacements of fuel filters on this type of filter housing, that i became really scrupulous. Usually repair workshops just unscrew the cover, take out the old cartridge and put a new one right directly to the freshly made mixture of clean and filthy diesel, letting it reach both sides of it. Thing is that they dont see or just dont want to understand, that this filter element has a completely open bottom and those dumbasses, sometimes even official dealer mechanics just use the old technique from the same cars having 1.9TD or 2.1TD old type filters that have the bottom completely sealed, making it absolutely acceptable to not drain the housing if its made in hurry of if theres not a lot of gunk in the housing, as the clean side of the filter cant reach it anyway. Your videos are completely perfectly useful for DYIers and starters of it as theyre really high detail. Keep going :) I would love to see a tutorial about the right way to rebuild the rear swing arms with new bearrings for citro hydro cars. Mostly the C5 I and II, because it has a different contruction, making it imposible to set the thickness of a bearring freedom adjusting shim using just simple tools, like vernier or gap thickness measure plates. And without the right setting, leaving just an old shim, it only holds for about 70-80kkm, whereas the factory bearrings easily withstand as much, as 250-300kkm, and by setting the right shims for BX,XM,Xantia that have a conventional construction, you can reach more or less 150-200kkm, that is usually more than enough for most of the buyers of those cars still alive :)

+Tadas Varnelis Wow you definatley know your C15 well, its great to be able to hear from someone who knows PSA machinery. The C15 seems to share most of its rear axle components with the 305, and for me rebuilding a 305 it is very useful as C15 production ended in 2006 parts for it are easier to find than 305 parts. The XUD7TE i never actually knew it did not have valve stem seals, do they use more oil then? For my 305 i purchased a very corroded 405 Turbo D, it has the XUD9TE which as far as i am aware is somewhat more complex than the XUD7 but i hope still a good engine, before the swap a head gasket and timing belt will be required. The 305 project is on hold at the moment as i started it in my placement year and am not finishing off final year of engineering at univiersity, but hope to sort the bodywork first, corrosion is also an issue over here although i expect you do get considerably more snow. Old citroens are something i want to try soon, would really like an XM, but the older ones just had quite a lot of character such as you mention the 1 spoke wheel, and unsual controls. I have not worked on any but as for rebuild guides i am sure one of the citroen clubs should be able to advise on how to rebuild the rear suspension, as car clubs go citroen do have quite a selection with plenty of knowledgeable members. The Dw10 or early hdi's do as you say need a bit more care when servicing than the older XUD especially with the fuel filter, even putting plastic bags over the fuel lines if the engine bay is particularly dirty just to avoid problems can be necessary, i suppose if you are working in a garage you have had plenty of experience with the 1.6 DV6 HDi, any opinion on those? Nonetheless very good to be able to talk to someone knowledgeable on older PSA cars.