Brother I know this stuff has to hurt your back.

Throwing money/new parts at a problem isn't the proper way to fix it... hope Tony has a VOM with capacitor tester function... Before messing with wires or distributor gear, he should first check and make sure the vacuum or mechanical advances aren't jammed in an advanced position! Replace 2 bbl. carb. with 4 bbl. carb. so power doesn't stop by 3500 RPMs...

😊😊😊

Yes 👍

Get something prior to 67 easier for registration and insurance purposes. Most states u don’t have to emission anything prior to 67 in AZ anyways (Or u put classic car insurance and bypass anyways) Either way your in for a surprise, fun to work on but u fix something and another thing breaks soon after.

There old 4 door cars out there all the time. Scap one of them up!

You have to be my brother from another mother 😂 i feel same way.

I'm in the same boat as you, love classic cars but never seem to have the money for them. My current plan is paying down my debts and investing in the stock market to grow my money. I mostly invest in VOO and QQQ. Hopefully after a few years I should have enough money to get back into this hobby.

I promise you DON’T want rust if you can help it. I’d rather buy a rust free car with a blown engine and swap it out with a good used runner than a rusty car that runs and drives fine (for now). That said if you want to get an older GM car cheap to just have fun with the 77-mid 80’s carbureted downsized GM full-size models like the Caprice, Impala, Delta 88, Bonneville, Catalina, Electra or Lesabre, one of the Cadillac models. The pre-81 models are my favorite, they lowered the hood line on the refreshed models after that. Anyhow $3-5k will get you a REAL nice driver of that vintage now. I have a video of my old 84’ Delta 88 I used to bomb around in on my channel from well over a decade ago….back then (2009,2010) you could pick those cars up for under $2k in good shape….mind was a 90k mile 1 owner grampy car with a few door debts but otherwise perfect body and paint, even had an original “Reagan / Bush 84” sticker on the bumper…cold A/C, power everything….they are really good cars. I wound up doing away with the CCC carb and distributor on mine (it was an early super basic form of computer control) even though it was still working OK, it was only around $100 at the junkyard to get a vacuum advance Olds HEI distributor and a regular Q-jet in good shape to put on mine and I was able to put a little more timing in it and wake it up some, plus I think the vacuum advance gave better cruising speed performance than the CCC system did.

Or Reyes!

No doubt ,even for small equipment I've resorted to finding used OEM carbs and getting a kit if needed as the china stuff is hit or miss.

Be sure to rebuilt it with new ethanol compatible parts though, don't slap it on there as is or it'll probably leak and cause a fire.

I always use a piece of masking tape or any tape, press it into the clip before you remove it, works every time, I’ve lost too many, it’s nerve racking.

I would have killed for a tappa tappa tappa!

Excellent idea!

Good thinking. Could get you going when you’re in a pinch and don’t have a lot of tools or time.

Then you end up with possible jet plugging. It's better to take apart and clean and hopefully find the culprit. If not, blow the bowl out with air and clean the needle and seat and blow it out also. Or if you have a good st of lungs... like Tony seems to have, use your God given compressed air. You don't want any debris plugging your jets.

The problem comes when someone down the road replaces the wires and goes by the commonly available diagrams showing firing order on the cap. If they do that, the timing is off again…..

To move the distributor a tooth over on a chrysler SB, you have to pull the distributor and then pull the oil pump drive gear. A huge pain to do with common hand tools.

Can I ask how you watched a 30 minute video in 1 minute? 😄

Then driving Mopars to 30 years and never ever have I had a ballast resistor go bad

@@briansignorelli7090 Only one back in 1990 -1991 or so...Car died 1 block from my home,I drove many old 60's and 70's Chrysler products 100,000 miles plus the ,mileage that was on them all over 120,000..except one was verified 80,000 mile car all others were 120,000 -150,000 etc..they all looked and ran perfect,very picky buyer/No rattles,no squeaks and not abused.I looked at 10 to buy one on average.. Some I rebuilt the engines after hard driving when younger/some just kept going and going ..Daily drivers from 1980's to 2005,now I still drive my old cars about 1,000 miles per month..Only one ballast resistor went bad on me,now I know my next problem lol.

@@briansignorelli7090 about the same here. I have had 4 Chrysler gas vehicles for 20 to 30 years and probably have logged 300k miles between them all over that time and not replaced one ballast resistor. I have had one coil go though.

That's what I was thinking. If it was running and all of a sudden turned to shit, then seeing the timing that far off, I'm thinking chain.

Timing chains don’t jump a tooth. If they do the gears are really badly worn and you won’t get it started like he did.

@@MrZdvy Timing chains most commonly will not jump a tooth, but I did have a 400 that had the nylon tooth gears, half the gear the teeth were worn off on the rear side, the other half was worn on the front side, the chain did have slop, and the only thing i can think is that it must have had enough slop to jump to damage in that way...the vehicle was running before I removed the timing chain set, yet gained power after replacing the set...double roller of coarse.

I welded a wrench to my core support once LOL Think fast!

Yeah i winced